Just FYI I have been looking and the used ones that are in the area are these, 2002 with 22K miles with a dealer ask price of $17,500 and an 03 with 13K miles and a dealer ask price of $19,000.
Both are non Subaru dealers so I feel that I can talk them down some. My feeling was that I should be able to talk them down at least a grand. Those are two options but I still don't know if I have the money. I have my first baby due in August.
Prayerfor - "I think black is the first or second best color on most other cars, but IMO black WRXs just don't look very good. The black Subaru uses looks dull and flat to me, not glossy. "
- Speak for yourself! Have a black '02 and love the fact that the trim blends in nicely with the Black paint. It is the only color I know that does not make the 16" wheels look undersized! Also, makes the car look a little meaner as well.
- Two other comments on the '02s, Clutch is a TSB and can be replaced under warrenty (like mine) and the '02s have a bigger rear sway bar.
Picked up my Silver WRX wagon today, and driving around today there's no doubt I made the right choice. right now I'm trying to come up with places I need to drive to. I tried the XT, but it's not the vehicle for me. You can read my impressions over at the XT board if you are interested. In my opinion it's like a North American muscle car from the 70's. Just not my cup of tea. I think in the end you are going to be one or the other, and very few will have much difficulty deciding their preference after a test drive.
[Paisan]I'd go for an '03.5 model. Mostly for the clutch and the radiator. They changed the radiators mid-way through '03 and now has a cap on the radiator allowing it to be filled. Also in mid '03 they used a different paint on the inside of the coolant resivoir by the turbo so the paint doesn't come off like the first 1.5 model years[/Paisan]
If I got teh old skool, will this paint cause a problem? What can I do?
OK, so which class should we vote for Most wanted sedan under $25,000 (Base MSRP $24,620) or $35,000, since only a few options will put you over the 25K mark? My guess is we should vote 'Under $25,000' since I was just able to pick up my new 2004 WRX at Evanston in Chicago, with Premium package, armrest extension, Auto-dimming mirror w/compass for $23K!!! (OK, so I that doesn't include the tax, title, license, but neither does MSRP!) Hell of a deal, for a hell of a car, I know! Anyway, your thoughts??
"(They offered me 7 years /100K miles for $1980 + tax, if you can get a better deal pls let me know!)"
Well, many of you may already know this, but you can negiotiate the price of the Extended Warranty. I picked up my warranty (5yr-60K mile Added Security Service Agreement and 2 years 24K Maintenance Plan) for $1516.
Doh! I figured that out AFTER I posted. ;p I guess I didn't realize it was a bulleted list, pre-populated. I was paranoid that I'd only get one shot at opening the 'vote' option, so I thought I'd open it after I posted the question. Sorry, I guess it was just a dumb moment. So for all those confused ones out there, the answer is vote the WRX as Most wanted Sedan (heck wagon too for that matter) under $25K.
I bought a 2002 WRX Wagon from a dealer. I was hooking up power under the dash to my Valentine Detector and I noticed two green connectors that were disconnected so I connected them. Voila! The check engine light went on and the engine idled terribly. I've also noticed the air condensor and cooling fans cycling on and off. So I disconnected it.I'm taking it in to have serviced. Has anyone experienced this? Any ideas what this might be?
I remember Stoner and Craig switching to Prodrive exhausts a while back. How are they holding up? I've been thinking of switching as well.
Snooped around the sites and saw axlebacks, catbacks and turbobacks. What's the difference?
Also if I change to a Prodrive axleback is changing the centerpipe also recommended?
I think I can change the exhaust but the up pipes and down pipes I think might be beyond me.
By the way my WRX is 2 yrs. old this month and I'm still smilin' going through the gears. Great car for the money. Haven't let me down yet. Every time I ask, it answers with "how much"? Still all stock, just switched to 17's w/225x45s.
Then again I'm just your average Joe who likes to get out of people's way (in front or around you). ;-)
My Prodrive is holding up nicely, still looks and sounds great. It was a piece of cake to install. There is no real benefit to replacing the mid pipe (which the axleback bolts to) as it's already larger diameter tubing and only has a resonator (which has minimal losses).
The difference between axleback, catback, and turboback is how far upstream you go (the names explain it all). Turboback is the most agressive, since you're basically replacing everything downstream of the turbo, but it offers the most performance potential (especially when coupled with an up-pipe and revised engine management).
Down-pipes are not very difficult to install, but up-pipes require quite a bit of disassembly (not challenging, just labor intensive). If you're squeamish about taking your car apart, leave the up-pipe to sombody else!
I went with an axleback because I was only interested in enhancing the exhaust sound and look and did not want to mess with anything else.
I have the short-throw and like a lot. I'm not sure what the stock shifter is like.
Turbo lag can mostly be compensated for by an experienced WRX driver. The more seat time you have, the more you learn how to drive the car quickly. It takes a little time, but it's what makes the WRX so rewarding. It doesn't have the easy point-and-shoot torque of a V-6 (or subie's 2.5t), but if you're on your game, you can keep up with just about anyone.
The only downside is when you are totally unprepared to go fast (cruising below 3000 rpm) and you press the pedal expecting a response (nothing...nothing...then voooooom!!). You have to retrain yourself to downshift when you need power and to "get the pot boiling" before you make a move (lane changes, etc.).
This car is not for lazy drivers -- it demands to be driven well if you want it to go fast. That said, it's not nervous or punishing when you want to take it easy.
The Prodrive is about the most mellow of the mufflers I researched. It's not offensive to me, just enhances the boxer rumble and makes it a bit louder. With the stock muffler, there was a point in the 2200-2800 rpm range where the car sounded great. With the Prodrive, I hear that over a wider rpm range. At full throttle, it roars more than stock but is still mellow and classy sounding. On the highway, it's as quiet as stock. Overall, it was ideal for my needs.
I did notice that engine braking is a lot smoother when I downshift to slow down, so the muffler clearly reduced some back pressure. I don't notice any performance gains (other than the cool vroom-vroom noises).
I also have the short-throw and like it a lot. You do get more vibration through the shifter with the short-throw unit, since they took out the damper, but I really don't notice anything myself. I did try the regular shifter during a test drive and thought that was perfectly OK too.
I agree with Jim, the lag is manageable once you get a feel for the car. The thing is, the WRX has to be driven fast if you want to go fast (if you know what I mean). It's not like a Corvette where you can lumber along at 1200rpm and then peg it and get instantaneous power. However, once the WRX turbo spools up, it pulls like crazy. You need to be prepared for the rush. I do not get on my WRX in 1st gear unless I am serious about it, because everything happens real fast!
As Jim also said, the WRX is a real cream-puff if you just drive it normally. From that perspective, the turbo adds a little extra bonus. For instance, if I'm cruising on the highway at 75mph in 5th gear (close to 3000rpm), the lag is pretty much gone, and the car accelerates easily without breaking a sweat.
Matt, part of knowing your car is dealing with this "annoying lag" that you referred to. The car is definitely a driver's car. Gotta know how to get what you want out of it.
For one, this is not a stomp and burn rubber car but I think well worth the trade off.
Another way to look at it is "it ain't Windows, more like UNIX".
I also have the short throw shifter option but like Craig, I only drove the stock during the test drive so I can't say much about the stock shifter. I'm pretty happy with mine.
If you are talking "off the line", then definately YES there is lag, and driving talent won't help. If burning people at stop lights is your goal then go elsewhere, this is no dragster. But if you know how to manage a stick she is very responsive once moving, and that's coming from someone who is still kinda behaving himself with the revs as I reach the end of break-in.
Just thought I'd chime in on two current issues being discussed...
Turbo lag is certainly there, but as has been said it's easy to learn around it (and rewarding once you do).
Or you can go with a catless uppipe and full turbo-back exhaust system, and your turbo lag will be just a memory. I couldn't believe how much more responsive my car became in the 2000-3000 rev range after having this stuff installed, so getting caught "flat-footed" is much less of a problem.
Hey isn't removing CATs from a street vehicle a Federal offence? But seriously, did you do the whole bang or take it in stages. I have heard/read opinions that the up-pipe is the cheapest, fastest way to increase the low-rpm response.
I agree with what the others posted that there is definitely some turbo lag, BUT you can learn to adjust your driving style to get around it. I actually appreciate the fact that I can enjoy a spirited drive on twisty mountain roads when I want to or just drive it normally below boost levels.
When I got my car it didn't have the short-throw shifter installed yet. It was part of the sales deal so I was to go back at a later date to have it installed. I drove the car for about a month w/ the regular shifter before I went back for the short-throw. I would say that it's an improvement, but not necessarily a SIGNIFICANT improvement.
The only issue I have (sometimes) is the low-end torque. I live in SF so the only time it bothers me that I don't have low-end torque is when I'm parallel parking on a steep hill. Other than that, the car is a blast to drive.
I bought my Prodrive from a local shop, Mach V Motorsports, here in VA. I'd recommend ordering from whoever is close by you so you don't spend a lot on shipping (it's a pretty big box). They usually go for $380-400 shipped.
I used the stock hangers. I really don't think there's a need to buy new ones unless you're installing a whole new exhaust system and are concerned with it rattling around (aftermarket hangers are usually stiffer). The stock hangers will come off the old muffler with a squirt of WD-40.
So Craig, since you are in VA, I hope to see you out at one of the track events at Summit Point or VIR this year!!!! Especially since you are "modding" it!
The WRX has three so you can remove two and still be within the law. Some U.S. states have even dropped emissions testing and you can run with out any cats.
Dennis any removal of emission equipment that was originally supplied on your car is illegal, practically you can get away with what you are suggesting, but it is not in any size shape or form legal.
I was just jawing of course, but my recollection was the same as Paisan. Namely that removing any emissions equipment on a production vehicle for road use violated Federal regs. The really stupid thing is that the STi up-pipe is cat-less and legal, but pulling out the WRX stocker for the STi is technically illegal. Has to do with emissions regs for a manufacturers complete production doesn't it? That way you can produce so many smoke barfing gas guzzlers if you balance that with efficient models. Of course just designate them all as trucks and then all bets are off. This is all "iirc" for a foreign countrys laws, so correct me if I'm wrong.
Hey isn't removing CATs from a street vehicle a Federal offence? But seriously, did you do the whole bang or take it in stages. I have heard/read opinions that the up-pipe is the cheapest, fastest way to increase the low-rpm response.
I did all the exhaust mods at once, when I had some more knowledgeable assistance at my disposal -- not to mention better tools
The uppipe is indeed great bang/buck, especially WRT low-rpm response, but is one of the more difficult installs.
And of course, don't get me wrong. I'm guilty of all those items on my cars, except the cats, although when I put a catless DP on the Legacy I'll be breaking that one too.
Did anyone notice that the WRX is a Edmunds TMV Best Bet for the Month of April? Looks like it is a good time to buy.
Has anyone noticed that the XT board has been discussing Gas Mileage and getting the best mileage by cruising in an RPM range around 2500+? For those of you getting better mileage than others, what RPM range do you drive around in mostly?
Yeah, where the heck are those 05 WRXs? Seen no official info on it, but heard it's supposed to be in around the middle of May? Anyone seen one? Someone go over to the Ohio plant and see what's up over there!
My 03 has just reached 30K, and the deceleration noise is driving me nuts. I've read some of the postings, but I'm still not clear if this is fixable. I think I have one of the newer clutches, but I'm not really sure. I'll be taking my car in for the 30K service, but I'm not really that confident in the dealer. They're more interested in padding the bill for service. Please give me some current thoughts on the decel issue. Thanks, BC
bcannon1, What decel noise are you talking about? Is it similar to the noise made by most manual trans cars in reverse? I noticed that noise when my car was new but now at 17K plus, I don't hear it anymore. Maybe yours is more pronounced.
Like most of the other postings about this issue, I find most of the noise when deceling in 2nd gear. There is the "normal" tranny whine, but then a metalic noise kicks in. The car runs great, shifts fine etc. It gets even louder when I'm going down an incline in 2nd after lifting off the accelerator. Maybe I just need to turn the radio back up. BC
Yeah, I'd like to hear more details about the noise. If it sounds like nails rattling in a coffee can, it could be springs on the clutch plate (though I thought that problem was confined to 02 models).
Comments
Both are non Subaru dealers so I feel that I can talk them down some. My feeling was that I should be able to talk them down at least a grand. Those are two options but I still don't know if I have the money. I have my first baby due in August.
-Corey
- Speak for yourself! Have a black '02 and love the fact that the trim blends in nicely with the Black paint. It is the only color I know that does not make the 16" wheels look undersized! Also, makes the car look a little meaner as well.
- Two other comments on the '02s, Clutch is a TSB and can be replaced under warrenty (like mine) and the '02s have a bigger rear sway bar.
I tried the XT, but it's not the vehicle for me. You can read my impressions over at the XT board if you are interested. In my opinion it's like a North American muscle car from the 70's. Just not my cup of tea. I think in the end you are going to be one or the other, and very few will have much difficulty deciding their preference after a test drive.
Craig
LOL
Well, minus the axle hop. That indy rear suspenion is key.
-juice
If I got teh old skool, will this paint cause a problem? What can I do?
DjB
-mike
Well, many of you may already know this, but you can negiotiate the price of the Extended Warranty. I picked up my warranty (5yr-60K mile Added Security Service Agreement and 2 years 24K Maintenance Plan) for $1516.
Vote for what you like in all the categories that you want! :-)
So for all those confused ones out there, the answer is vote the WRX as Most wanted Sedan (heck wagon too for that matter) under $25K.
Yes, I have those frequently.
-Dave
-mike
I remember Stoner and Craig switching to Prodrive exhausts a while back. How are they holding up? I've been thinking of switching as well.
Snooped around the sites and saw axlebacks, catbacks and turbobacks. What's the difference?
Also if I change to a Prodrive axleback is changing the centerpipe also recommended?
I think I can change the exhaust but the up pipes and down pipes I think might be beyond me.
By the way my WRX is 2 yrs. old this month and I'm still smilin' going through the gears. Great car for the money. Haven't let me down yet. Every time I ask, it answers with "how much"? Still all stock, just switched to 17's w/225x45s.
Then again I'm just your average Joe who likes to get out of people's way (in front or around you). ;-)
Thanks in advance.
My Prodrive is holding up nicely, still looks and sounds great. It was a piece of cake to install. There is no real benefit to replacing the mid pipe (which the axleback bolts to) as it's already larger diameter tubing and only has a resonator (which has minimal losses).
The difference between axleback, catback, and turboback is how far upstream you go (the names explain it all). Turboback is the most agressive, since you're basically replacing everything downstream of the turbo, but it offers the most performance potential (especially when coupled with an up-pipe and revised engine management).
Down-pipes are not very difficult to install, but up-pipes require quite a bit of disassembly (not challenging, just labor intensive). If you're squeamish about taking your car apart, leave the up-pipe to sombody else!
I went with an axleback because I was only interested in enhancing the exhaust sound and look and did not want to mess with anything else.
Craig
17's are great. Had them for 12k now. I got the Antracite SSRs, goes great with my silver WRX. Not only looks but handling's way improved.
Fredy
Anyone have the short throw shifter? is it worth it?
Turbo lag can mostly be compensated for by an experienced WRX driver. The more seat time you have, the more you learn how to drive the car quickly. It takes a little time, but it's what makes the WRX so rewarding. It doesn't have the easy point-and-shoot torque of a V-6 (or subie's 2.5t), but if you're on your game, you can keep up with just about anyone.
The only downside is when you are totally unprepared to go fast (cruising below 3000 rpm) and you press the pedal expecting a response (nothing...nothing...then voooooom!!). You have to retrain yourself to downshift when you need power and to "get the pot boiling" before you make a move (lane changes, etc.).
This car is not for lazy drivers -- it demands to be driven well if you want it to go fast. That said, it's not nervous or punishing when you want to take it easy.
All in all, a great balance and a great value.
-Jim
2004 WRX Wagon
The Prodrive is about the most mellow of the mufflers I researched. It's not offensive to me, just enhances the boxer rumble and makes it a bit louder. With the stock muffler, there was a point in the 2200-2800 rpm range where the car sounded great. With the Prodrive, I hear that over a wider rpm range. At full throttle, it roars more than stock but is still mellow and classy sounding. On the highway, it's as quiet as stock. Overall, it was ideal for my needs.
I did notice that engine braking is a lot smoother when I downshift to slow down, so the muffler clearly reduced some back pressure. I don't notice any performance gains (other than the cool vroom-vroom noises).
Craig
I agree with Jim, the lag is manageable once you get a feel for the car. The thing is, the WRX has to be driven fast if you want to go fast (if you know what I mean). It's not like a Corvette where you can lumber along at 1200rpm and then peg it and get instantaneous power. However, once the WRX turbo spools up, it pulls like crazy. You need to be prepared for the rush. I do not get on my WRX in 1st gear unless I am serious about it, because everything happens real fast!
As Jim also said, the WRX is a real cream-puff if you just drive it normally. From that perspective, the turbo adds a little extra bonus. For instance, if I'm cruising on the highway at 75mph in 5th gear (close to 3000rpm), the lag is pretty much gone, and the car accelerates easily without breaking a sweat.
Craig
Matt, part of knowing your car is dealing with this "annoying lag" that you referred to. The car is definitely a driver's car. Gotta know how to get what you want out of it.
For one, this is not a stomp and burn rubber car but I think well worth the trade off.
Another way to look at it is "it ain't Windows, more like UNIX".
I also have the short throw shifter option but like Craig, I only drove the stock during the test drive so I can't say much about the stock shifter. I'm pretty happy with mine.
I think I'm starting to talk myself into it now. I think this will remedy my wanting to hear more feedback from the engine a little more.
Turbo lag is certainly there, but as has been said it's easy to learn around it (and rewarding once you do).
Or you can go with a catless uppipe and full turbo-back exhaust system, and your turbo lag will be just a memory. I couldn't believe how much more responsive my car became in the 2000-3000 rev range after having this stuff installed, so getting caught "flat-footed" is much less of a problem.
But seriously, did you do the whole bang or take it in stages. I have heard/read opinions that the up-pipe is the cheapest, fastest way to increase the low-rpm response.
When I got my car it didn't have the short-throw shifter installed yet. It was part of the sales deal so I was to go back at a later date to have it installed. I drove the car for about a month w/ the regular shifter before I went back for the short-throw. I would say that it's an improvement, but not necessarily a SIGNIFICANT improvement.
The only issue I have (sometimes) is the low-end torque. I live in SF so the only time it bothers me that I don't have low-end torque is when I'm parallel parking on a steep hill. Other than that, the car is a blast to drive.
JB
I used the stock hangers. I really don't think there's a need to buy new ones unless you're installing a whole new exhaust system and are concerned with it rattling around (aftermarket hangers are usually stiffer). The stock hangers will come off the old muffler with a squirt of WD-40.
CRaig
-mike
-Dennis
-mike
This is all "iirc" for a foreign countrys laws, so correct me if I'm wrong.
Nicholas - nice goal by Iginla, 2-1 Calgary.
Speeding
Tint
Headlights
-mike
-Dennis
But seriously, did you do the whole bang or take it in stages. I have heard/read opinions that the up-pipe is the cheapest, fastest way to increase the low-rpm response.
I did all the exhaust mods at once, when I had some more knowledgeable assistance at my disposal -- not to mention better tools
The uppipe is indeed great bang/buck, especially WRT low-rpm response, but is one of the more difficult installs.
-mike
Has anyone noticed that the XT board has been discussing Gas Mileage and getting the best mileage by cruising in an RPM range around 2500+? For those of you getting better mileage than others, what RPM range do you drive around in mostly?
I think the 2,500 is referring to the shift point instead of "cruise" rpm's.
twrx got 30 mpg's a few times with his Rex.
-Dennis
http://www.edmunds.com/products/tmv/deal.html
-Dennis
-juice
All I have heard rumored for 05 wrx is a new gunmetal gray color and some improved syncros on the manual shifter.
What I wish were coming was the 2.5 turbo with variable valve timing or at least variable valve timing on the 2.0.
I know the legacies are due mid May but I was not sure about the WRX.
-Brian
BC
Craig