Subaru Impreza WRX

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    ...and they dyno them with the hood open and a huge fan blowing fresh air right down onto it.

    -juice
  • ponmponm Member Posts: 139
    Most who do mods or even heavy mods on their wrx do not install a cold air intake. You can hack out the silencer and do a drop filter like K&N and you will probably see more results doing that. The same goes with a 'bov', it seems the stock equippment is proven to be the most reliable. I would take the 200 dollars and put it towards a suspension upgrade.
    -scott
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Can't make it. I'll be in Pittsburgh.
    Although last night, I got together with some of the folks from NY/NJ (including paisan and hypov from this board) for a dinner meet.
    So many sweet looking Subes!

    -Dennis
  • barresa62barresa62 Member Posts: 1,379
    I hooked my Pocketlogger up to my Dad's 00'MPV (the new style) and it worked fine. It's not compatible with Mitsu vehicles though....or Chrysler/GM/Ford. Go get the Pocketlogger and the Palm Pilot....run, don't walk! :-)

    Stephen
  • twrxtwrx Member Posts: 647
    If you are in the market for a Palm device check out Palm and Handspring's models that have rechargeble batteries. The cost of those alkalines adds up on the M 100 series pretty fast. Plus I had some trouble with my original Palm Pilot Pro losing data when you changed batteries. I have one of the Palm V models and the lithium and it is holding up fine.
    TWRX
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Thanks Stephen & twrx. Maybe I misread the pocketlogger site about it not working with Mazda's.

    My dw's birthday is a couple of months away, so I'll plan on getting one then for her. ;-)

    -Brian
  • aa717driveraa717driver Member Posts: 41
    I'm looking at the WRX when my GS400 comes off lease next year. I appreciate all the input from owners on this forum.

    How much does the maitenance run, like the big checks(usually 30k miles)? I had an original SE-R
    and the maintenance was pretty high.

    Also, since I'm used to the bulletproof reliability of Lexus is everyone here still happy?
    I will have to convince my wife why I won't go with the IS. My neighbor got rid of his Forrester
    due to severe maintenance problems and I've heard others complaining about Legacy's--remember, building a car in Lafayette, IN means it's still a domestic car.

    Thanks in advance for the input.TC
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    The Forester is notorious for having problems with the wheel bearings. This was fixed in 2001 (per posts above). The WRX does not have this problem.

    I have about 5K on my car and still love it.
    Maintenance items:

    3-7.5K mile oil changes
    30K - spark plugs (get platnum tipped and it is 60K)
    105K - Timing belt
    The rest is same as any other car (fluids, radiator flush, transmission oil, etc.)

    They give you a personalized website for car maintenance!
    Gas mileage is around 22 mpg (for me)

    Car handles as well as the IS300 (with the 16" vs. the IS's 17" tires)
    Is faster
    has a roomier back seat and trunk
    Is significantly cheaper
    easier to tune
    More throwable (weighs less and has very tight and precise steering!)
    Have to go aftermarket for leather and sunroof though.

    From previous posts, it seemed there were some quality issues when the car first came out, but so far mine has been quite solid. It seems all the issues have been handled. Finally, Subaru seems to really back their cars.

    I personally think the IS looks better, and will most likely be quieter, nicer interior, and "luxury feels" - like doors that make a nice solid sound when closing them - but would bet that the WRX has at least as good a ride quality, and has Subaru quality backing it up (CR loves the Impressa)

    Finally, the Impressa has done extremely well in crash tests by both major organizations, and has AWD, with is a better safety feature for bad weather and slick conditions than the RWD IS300 and traction control.

    Just my $0.02. I have a feeling that if I exaggerated anything or got something wrong. Someone here will correct me.

    Oh, one other thing, for the money you saved buying the WRX over the IS, you can take your wife on a really nice vacation. :-)
  • aa717driveraa717driver Member Posts: 41
    kevin--Thanks for the input. I'll keep lurking here and see how people are doing. I'm also considering the Passat(2wd) or the Golf 337. I'm a sucker for 0-60 times, though.TC
  • aa717driveraa717driver Member Posts: 41
    I just went to the VW GTI board. Sounds like a bunch of VW mechanics talking about their jobs. There is apparently a huge gap in reliability between German and Japanese cars(don't even talk about domestic brands).TC
  • sandstormsandstorm Member Posts: 2
    I've stayed away from Subaru since I drove a 3-cyl Justy in 1981... boy have things changed.
    Took delivery of my 2003 WRX last night- think I'm falling in love!

    Read through several strings but didn't find an answer to my 1st question:
    Subaru says this car needs 91 octane premium fuel- Has anyone run this turbo on regular unleaded? Is there potential to damage the turbo? I've read that folks have burned regular unleaded in the VW 1.8T with no problems. If 91 octane is a must, will that bottled octane booster you see work?

    Am probably jumping the gun since I still have a full tank from the dealer, but I'm so excited about this car I'm already looking at aftermarket & performance accessories (tires/wheels, security system, & armrest extension right now) & I gotta start looking to keep costs down or I'll go broke in the blink of an eye.
  • cinosweivecinosweive Member Posts: 166
    Modern engines have knock sensors, so in that respect you can burn whatever octane you want. The computer will adjust the timing to avoid the knocking. That is why so many Passat owners burn regular and claim there are no problems. But you are presumably buying the WRX for a reason, and that reason is not looks that only an owner could love. To get the performance you are expecting out of the WRX you have to burn 91 octane or higher. In a sense, if you didn't want to spring for high octane, you could have saved about 5K and bought the RS. Splurge and be happy. :-)

    On the positive side, I believe (but I am not certain) that if you are ever in a bind and cannot get high octane, you can burn regular w/out fear of damaging anything.
  • mgreene1mgreene1 Member Posts: 116
    I'd run at least 91 octane in the WRX. Anything lower could cause knocking / pinging (detonation) which is hard on the engine and the car will run poorly while the knock sensor pulls back on the timing trying to eliminate the pinging. This is particularly important for cars with power mods. Octane boost may help a little but not nearly as much as they claim. I've also heard that higher octane may not be as important for cars running at higher elevations (e.g., Colorado), but don't remember the exact reasons.
    It may be a good idea to use the highest octane available since the ECM will "adjust" over time and might "learn" to be a bit faster. Anything higher than 93 or 94 is probably a waste of $$$ unless you have an aftermarket ECM programmed to take advantage of even higher octane levels.
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    The WRX should be run at an octane level of at least 91 (American) for normal everyday use. The car will run at 87 with no damage to the engine if you are in a bind, but with a loss in performance. Subaru highly recommends running at least 91.
  • barresa62barresa62 Member Posts: 1,379
    Standard cost per SOA is $585. SOA has been sending out $50 coupons off that price though. As another poster posted, switching to platinum tipped sparkplugs will cutdown on the cost so soon. BTW, changing the plugs on the WRX is a chore because you have to remove just about everything at the top of the motor area to get to the plugs which are down low on either side. Once you can reach the plugs, it's simple though. (I changed mine myself to platinum tipped plugs back at 16k w/my Vishnu Stage 0 pkg.) This is one of the reasons why the 30k maintenance is so high. :-)

    Stephen
  • cinosweivecinosweive Member Posts: 166
    Just a guess here. But at least for normally aspirated engines, pressures are lower in the cylinder at full compression. So, perhaps pressures are reduced enough to reduce the need for higher octane.
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    I will see how much my local dealers charge for the service, but may go to my local mechanic. Though, I am not sure how familiar my local mechanic is with WRXs.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Did some work on them over the weekend. A few buddies and I started a small business doing installs for Subies on the side and had our first paying customers this weekend. In 1 day we installed:

    Up-pipe and Downpipe
    Electronic Boost Controller
    ALK
    and 2 sets of springs

    Up-pipe was propably the biggest pain and I'd suggest anyone who is thinking of doing it do it before you hit 10K miles or have a "professional" shop do it. The one we did was 4500 miles so the bolts and everything were easy to do.

    Springs are pretty easy. We did both sets in about 20 minutes on both cars. We had like 10 people at my place at the time and it was already dark so we hustled and did em real quick.

    Also had a tint guy come out and do tint on a few cars too. All in all it was a very good start.

    Found a good place to mount the EBC right on the sun visor above the mirror great place for em.

    -mike
  • WarpDriveWarpDrive Member Posts: 506
    I don't understand this thinking. Even though the WRX *can* be run on regular unleaded, why risk it? Let's say you got a bad batch of 87 octane fuel and the effective octane is actually lower....that could be very bad for the engine. The 91 octane will give you a margin of error. If you're going to skimp, at least put 89 octane in it!

    Also, cars that are designed to run on premium will often suffer power losses of up to 10% (making your WRX only 204HP). That is significant. You might as well bought an Impreza RS and saved the $4000.00. Gas in the USA is so inexpensive compared to the rest of the world, just enjoy it, feed it properly and enjoy the performance the car is known for.
  • sensei1sensei1 Member Posts: 196
    I'm with Warpdrive here. What's the point of getting a WRX? Kinda like having a 'vette and then worry about your gas mileage. ~$25k vs ~$0.30/gal just doesn't tally up.
  • sensei1sensei1 Member Posts: 196
    Thanks again for the feedback guys. As Brian mentioned, the CEL went away yesterday and has been off since. Weird, so I didn't take it in today as scheduled.

    Also, I switched to K&N air filter Friday evening, I wonder if that had anything to do with it. Should I still take it in?

    Thanks again guys!!
  • ponmponm Member Posts: 139
    When I lived in Vienna a few years back, the price of gas was extremely high. It figured out to be around 4.50 a gallon. Just figure this, we pay less for a gallon of gas than you would pay for a bottled water.
    -scott
  • wheeldogwheeldog Member Posts: 39
    Sensei1,
    The CEL and K&N filter could very well be related. From what I have read (on another site) the mass air sensor on the WRX is quite sensitive to any over-oiling of the filter. I've used K&N filters on other vehicles with no problems, but have decided to stay with the OEM filter on the WRX for this reason. Others here may have some miles w/ a K&N installed and can tell you of their experience.
  • legion334legion334 Member Posts: 8
    Does anyone know whether a Blow Off Valve will void the warranty on your turbo? And also, would a turbo timer void it too? I really need to know, cause i want to get these parts soon if it doesnt.
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    The general concensus was that it was unneccessary with the turbo design of the WRX. Actually it was quite useless.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I know a guy who had his warrantee voided due to BOV.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I don't think you'd lose a whole 10% with 87 octane. For the H6, Subaru said the power drops from 212hp to 208hp.

    I realize turbos need the good stuff even more, but it's probably more like a 2-5% power loss.

    -juice

    PS I still say use premium, else buy an RS
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm gonna be going to that camp in a week or 2 with the SVX it requires premium as well.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    230hp back then was a big deal.

    Even today most V6s require premium, especially ones at that power level and above.

    -juice
  • celica115celica115 Member Posts: 169
    How dose the PCV valve work? Subaru recommands replace this valve every 30K. Is that necessary? If yes, is it better to replace the cap, rotor and ignition wires at the same time?
  • sensei1sensei1 Member Posts: 196
    Thanks for the feedback but what I meant was the CEL went away Sunday afternoon after I switched to K&N Friday night. As subearu hinted the condition (whatever it was) might have gone away.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It allows air to vent out, but not back in. So it's a one-way valve, essentially. I did change mine at 30k, though it still worked (you can test it by blowing into it in both directions).

    Ignition on newer Subies is distributorless, so no need for a cap and rotor. Saves you some $$$ in upkeep. I'd do the ignition wires when you do the plugs, maybe.

    -juice
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    This is more of a curiosity question than anything else. Can the WRX hit 100 mph in 4th gear? I have been too chicken to try lately. I know the car can surpass 80 and hit 85 in 3rd. This was a result of accelerating around a couple of slower cars, then looking down on my speedometer!
  • wheeldogwheeldog Member Posts: 39
    I don't think you'd have any problem doing this, though I've never proved it in my own WRX. You should hit about 5250 RPM doing 100 mph in 4th. With that said . . . if you really feel the need to do this, could you please try not to kill anybody including yourself?
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    Thanks wheeldog. No, I usually drive around the speedlimit. ;-)
  • barnowlbarnowl Member Posts: 18
    any chance of installing a sliding Sunroof in the WRX ? without compromising its structural integrity i.e. "ring-structure chassis";
    ( maybe the kind that slides back outside.... over the roof )
  • sensei1sensei1 Member Posts: 196
    Yeah, make sure you'll live to tell us about it if you do try it out. There was an article in SportCompactCar when they did a WRX road test and gave the gear speeds @ 6k rpm. Just can't remember the issue.

    You know what killed the cat right? Take care.
  • thecatthecat Member Posts: 535
    The space between the front of the roof and the 1st of 2 cross supports is quite small. Maybe 18 inches or so. I think it would have to be removed in order to put a reasonable size sunroof in. That said, I saw some photos (over at I-Club) of an ASC sunroof installed in a WRX and it looked great! Just a 1st class job. Considering the pros and cons .. I'm giving some thought to having one installed. The sunroof in my Forester is an aftermarket ASC and it has been problem free for 3 years.
    Barnowl, I'm going to email you some images of the WRX roof frame so you can decide for yourself if you think it's a problem.
    - Hutch
  • thecatthecat Member Posts: 535
    Well, actually Barnowl I can't email you the files because you didn't provide that info on your profile. Email me and I'll respond.
    - Hutch
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    Aftermarket sunroofs are great, many times better than the OEM models. I had one for 7 years, when it finally started to leak. It would only leak when srayed on directly, i.e. once in a while at a car-wash.

    I was considering looking into a small sliding sunroof (up and over) like the size of what is in the RSX. I guess I would see what ASC can do, even though it probably will not be for a couple of years.
  • sandstormsandstorm Member Posts: 2
    Thanks everyone for the input on premium fuel & octane ratings- I was really just asking out of curiosity.

    The post about not buying for looks had me LOL. I really like the way it looks, rides, & handles. Can't wait until the break in is done & I can go hunting Mustangs.
    Am learning tons by reading all your posts & look forward to meeting some of you in the chat.
  • bouncingbobbouncingbob Member Posts: 19
    I have been using Mobil 1 10W-30 in my WRX since 6,000 miles. Would the 5W-30 grade be a better choice for the winter months, given the change in season coming up? Or alternatively, should I stick with the 10W-30 for the winter season? I live in New York where the temperatures reach a low of about 0-5F on the coldest days.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    There is one in LI that has a pop-out version that fits between the beams. The same shop said they could put in one similar that was powered and slid ontop of the roof and wouldn't have to cut the beams. There should be a link higher up on this page to it or go to the Tri-state Forum on I-club and search for a post by vanillaeps.

    -mike
  • WarpDriveWarpDrive Member Posts: 506
    At least that's what it seems to indicate in the manual. 10W30 is ok for the summer months, but you really want the thinner oil for the winter months.

    Both dealers I visit put 5W30 in the cars all year around.
  • fxsfxs Member Posts: 50
    Thank you for contacting me with your inquiry.

    Your dealer is using the proper engine oil of 10W-30. 10W-40 is also
    acceptable. The brand of engine oil makes no difference to Subaru as long as
    the recommended grade and viscosity are used.

    As for synthetic oil, this is your decision. Our Technical Services
    Department advised that if you do decide to use synthetic oil, that you
    always use it because your engine will become accustomed to it. The same
    goes if you decide to use 'regular' oil.

    Synthetic engine oils can be used in our engines if the user follows the
    engine oil recommendations prescribed in the Owner's Manual. Subaru has not
    tested the compatibility of all synthetic oils with engine seals, but the
    petroleum industry does adhere to standards for the refining process which
    meet Subaru requirements. Subaru does not guarantee the performance of any
    brand of any engine oil.

    Engine Oil Guidelines: - only use engine oil that meets or exceeds the API
    classification designated in the Owner's Manual for the vehicle - only use
    engine oil that meets the VISCOSITY requirements for the ambient
    temperatures under which the vehicle will be operated as outlined in the
    Owner's Manual - THE ENGINE OIL MUST BE CHANGED AT THE INTERVALS SPECIFIED
    IN THE WARRANTY AND MAINTENANCE BOOKLET FOR THE VEHICLE. SOME SYNTHETIC OIL
    REFINERS RECOMMEND EXTENDED OIL CHANGE INTERVALS. SUBARU DOES NOT RECOMMEND
    ANY DEVIATION FROM THE SPECIFIED INTERVALS IN THE OWNER'S MANUAL.

    Thank you for the opportunity to be of assistance. Please let me know if I
    may assist you again in the future.

    Best wishes,
    Sandi Parente-Geiges
    Internet Customer Service
    Subaru of America, Inc.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    I "heard" that Subaru is in discussions with Motul about a Subaru branded Motul oil.

    -Dennis
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    We put one in our Legacy, even with the raised roof it fits (they mounted it just behind the hump).

    I also have a pop-up model in my Forester, it's been great even after 4 years.

    The power roof on the Legacy is fantastic, better than any OE moonroof. Why? Because I have one-touch open, one-touch close, one-touch tilt, and one-touch untilt. Mine can be programmed to close or untilt when I remove the key, or not to to leave it venting. All that and you can hold any button to get any position inbetween.

    Subaru's OE roofs don't offer half of those functionalities.

    -juice
  • dop50dop50 Member Posts: 162
    It seems to me that if I read post #6694 correctly, SOA does not recommend changing oil every 3xxx miles. Come to think of it, I have never seen any other mfgr recommend that either. How did we get to this idea that oil needs to be changed every 3xxx miles, anyway? It seems to me that it started with the "10 minute oil change" companies. I figure they had a lot to do with convincing people to change oil a lot more than need be. They do twice as many oil changes and make twice as much money by doing that, go figure!

    In years past we changed oil every 6xxx miles or twice a year whether it needed it or not.

    I have to admit that I too, have started changing oil more often, but at the same time, I never got in a panic if it happened to go out to 4xxx or more.

    So far I am following the book exactly for my WRX. I changed it the first time at 3xxx, and I put in Mobil 1 at 7500. Now my plan is to change oil between 5xxx and 75xx intervals. That means, I'll start thinking about it at 5xxx miles, and I'll have 2500 miles to get it done.

    Kevin111
    Yes, the WRX will do over 100MPH in 4th gear. :) Been there, done that!
    And I might add, it does so, effortlessly! If you didn't happen to look at the speedometer, you'd never know it. I don't know what the rpm's where, I just know it was getting pretty close to time to shift to 5th. (Somehow, you just know these things) The needle was past 100, but there again, I wasn't really paying that much attention to that. (sorry, I don't sit there and admire the gages when I'm driving, I just glance at them to get a general idea where they are.)

    Later,
    Ken
  • WarpDriveWarpDrive Member Posts: 506
    (not!)

    Go with what your manual says. You won't go wrong with that. I never bought the conspiracy theories: "well, the car companies *want* your car to break down hence the longer oil intervals". The 3000 mile interval is the traditional number from the old days. Things are different now with improved engines, better oils. We could probably go a lot longer with oil changes but the manuals are probably taking account that some people miss the deadlines by a bit.

    Mine is changed every 3500-4000 miles at the dealer as per my Canadian manual requirements. This way, you get a nice stamp in your warranty booklet.

    I switched to synthetic for "extra insurance" for the winter and make me feel better since turbos are hard on oil life. Since it is well known synthetics can tolerate longer intervals, I don't feel bad if I go over a bit.
  • mikenkmikenk Member Posts: 281
    He stated:
    >>So far I am following the book exactly for my WRX. I changed it the first time at 3xxx, and I put in Mobil 1 at 7500. Now my plan is to change oil between 5xxx and 75xx intervals. That means, I'll start thinking about it at 5xxx miles, and I'll have 2500 miles to get it done.

    That is exactly the same process I decided on for my WRX and VDC wagon. I believe that the 3000 mile change was related to the marketing by the quickie oil change companies. The little stickers on the windshields were incredible marketing tools; they made you feel guilty by not following their rules, regardless what the manufacturer had recommended.

    Mike
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