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Comments
The 300HP kit is for "off-road" use only, methinks it gets rid of one of the cats. Idle won't be an issue, no change in cams. Just bigger turbo, new injectors, computer remapping and exhaust work.
The other two kits (this is off the top of my head so I may be wrong) boost fuel pressure (stage 1) and injector size (stage II) along with computer remapping for both.
I'm sure all will work fine on 93 pump gas.
And yes, they certainly are in for making a profit. More profit than if they offered the additional power right out of the factory. Smart move really.
Curious to see if the US 2004 models have better low-end grunt. One major strike against the WRX for me after I test drove. Still on the list of cars, along with the Forester XT.
If Subaru offered the WRX wagon with a 2.5L turbo and a sunroof, I'd buy it today.
-B
-mike
First off drive the car awhile.
Leave the stock intake alone. Some very high HP cars use the stock system so it can't be too restrictive.
Skip the BOV. It's all show/sound and probably detrimental to performance (some are some aren't).
If you want to mod, start with one or more of these:
* ECU reflash to extract more power from stock components. I recommend Cobb AccessECU stage 1 ($395).
* Upgrade the uppipe for faster spoolup.
* Upgrade the intercooler piping (y-pipe is the only one of the three you really need)
Later think about turboback exhaust upgrades.
Skip the headers. Those won't help until you're pushing a lot more power than stock.
I wonder if that modded SRT would pass emissions. In MD we have to get cars inspected every 2 years.
Lots of folks agree - many have asked for a moonroof in the WRX wagon. The 2.5l would just be gravy.
-juice
I want an intake for a little more hp, and cool the engine faster if im ever racing.
I will get used to the wrx, and then im modding.
I want a BOV because its prevents the turbo from surging when throttle is lowered, so its easier on the valves, also it makes a cool sound. my friend has one on his rex.
Where can I get an ECU UPGRADE? I dont install it myself right?
And what kind of upgrade should I get on the y-pipe?
When Motortrend did a comparison of the same combo (June issue), they came up with something like 4.59secs for the EVO and 4.87 for the STi, which did not make much sense, leading me to think that the EVO Motortrend used, was a ringer from the factory, specially "tailored" for the press corps. The quarter mile time was 13.23 @104.6mph for the STi and 13.08 @105.1 for the EVO. Smells fishy. Braking (0-60) was 106ft for the EVO and 111ft for the STi, which could be a reasonable thing.....but overall, it sounded too much like a ringer car.
How could 2 different car mags come to 2 completely different objective figures ??
Later...AH
Ignore MotorTrend, they are the National Enquirer of Car Magazines.
Subscribers are getting their tests earlier.
Krzys
5-60 was 5.8secs for the STi vs 6.7secs for the EVO
There you go, real-world numbers, no clutch abuse, no cheating.
Even the top gear 50-70 is not that meaningful, who would be in 6th at 50mph? Still, that shows the edge more displacement gives you.
-juice
Enough off-topic conversation. Need to run by the local Subaru dealer and check out the new face of the WRX.
-B
The WRX has three cats so you can remove one or two and remain legal (all 3 in some states!).
You will likely not gain performance from a BOV since the WRX already has something similar. It just doesn't go "whoosh, whoosh" and doesn't vent exhaust gases into the atmosphere.
From http://www.spdusa.com/engine_modification.htm
"The Subaru engine has this compressor by-pass valve connected from the turbocharger compressor high pressure area (intercooler) back through to the low pressure side (the intake section) before the compressor. When the throttle is closed the high pressure intercooler side is opened to the intake low pressure airflow meter side, effectively putting the turbocharger into a no load condition. Under this very low load condition the high pressure air in the intercooler blows into the intake via the by-pass valve and pin-wheels compressor impeller. When the throttle is opened again, the turbine wheel is still spinning at a relatively high rpm and will go right back to work putting out boost. Without this feature the compressor/turbine wheels tend to stall between shifts and it takes longer to build up boost again after each shift. This is also true when the throttle is lifted in a corner for any reason. When you get back in to the gas, the by-pass valve actually is slow in closing and lets the turbine free wheel momentarily, bringing the boost on much quicker. We do not recommend giving this throttle response advantage in away for the sake of noise of a blow-off valve. A classic case of, 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it"."
-Dennis
Later...AH
I think MT looks stupid now and I hope it causes them to loose some subscription.
Advertisement money are important but irrelevant if nobody reads the magazine.
Krzys
And can anyone tell me if its possible to buy a 22b wrx anymore? I like how it looks a little better then the current rex
You can read about the mods I mentioned at www.vishnutuning.com, although I recommend the ECU reflash product from www.cobbtuning.com (only because it's ~50% cheaper for basically the same results). Naturally more objective opinions will be found at www.nasioc.com or other WRX boards on the internet.
Be sure to do lots and lots of reading and studying, and consider many viewpoints and opinions on the pros and cons of the various mods you're considering before diving in. Don't rely too heavily on your buddy with the WRX's opinion, or mine either for that matter. You need input from many sources to make good, well-informed decisions that best suit your car and your tuning objectives.
1) 17" wheels and All-season performance tires (Rota Formel wheels and Continental ContiExtremeContact tires); winter tires on the stock rims (Dunlop WinterSport M2)
2) 20mm rear swaybar (replacing the 17mm bar on my wagon)
3) Samco intercooler hose kit
4) JDM STi uppipe
5) Perrin lightweight crank pulley
6) Cobb AccessECU Stage 1 reflash
1, 2, and 3 are completed. 4 and 5 are awaiting install. 6 will follow once 4 and 5 are installed.
In the future I may explore a turboback exhaust if/when the stock parts require replacing.
For looks only, I have done these mods:
1) clear side markers
2) "headlight mod" with Philips Silvervision bulbs (eliminates the orange cap in the headlamp housing)
3) Sylvania SilverStar headlight bulbs
4) Removed "SUBARU" and "Impreza" from hatch
5) MOMO Race Airleather shift knob.
Have fun with your car!
* Morette headlights, custom painted
* A front-mount intercooler
* lowering springs
* a carbon fiber hood
* an aftermarket grille
* 18" rims
* painted sideskirts
* an aftermarket front lip
* tint
* and (naturally) stickers.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3517037104- &category=1042
Ok, with all this is mind, here we go:
The Cobb reflash is a good idea, but Stage 1 only.
This by itself gets you a safe 255 hp.
Then a good exhaust from the down-pipe back. Stromung is excellent quality and a great sound.
Now you are at 265-267 hp or so.
Finally, change to Mobil one or a high quality full-synthetic motor oil of your choice. The new Evo comes with Mobil one as factory fill. This gives you another 4-5 hp, so now you are at 270-272, or right about the same as the Evo!! Since the WRX weighs 100 to 180 pounds less than the Evo, you will be doing very well at this hp figure.
That's it! The WRX motor does not have the forged pistons or other hardened components of the STi, and using pump gas, it's only reliable to about 280hp and you should not go beyond that without expert help according to WRX guru Mike Shields.
The main thing to remember is that the WRX is a great ride straight out of the box. These mods will save you money, headache, and give you all the performance boost you need without undermining all the hard work and reliability the Subie engineers put into the Rex!
Just my 2 cents (or in this case, about a $1.50). Thanks for letting me have my say. Happy (and safe) Rexing everyone
-Rexaroo can I have my local mechanic upgrade to stage 1 ecu reflash? And with the oil, doesnt wrx come with its own perferred brand? Is it dangerous to switch to mobile 1?
And should I install racing headers?
Thanks for ur 2 cents btw, apperciate it.
-B
But they are coming out with a unit called AccessPort which let's you do the reflash yourself in 10 minutes. It is only $495 and let's you store your old ECU programming and download new maps when they become available.
The Cobb is very good because it never lets your boost go above 15 psi so you don't get detonation that can damage your engine and also this keeps exhaust gas temperatures within safe limits and so makes your engine last a lot longer
than with some other upgrades.
Not saying that what other guys have told you about upgrading is wrong, only that the Cobb is relatively cheap and reliable and will keep you out of trouble.
Any cat-back muffler like Pro-drive will work fine with the Cobb upgrade. And the headers are not really necessary. The point I was trying to make is that your WRX when you buy it is like a finely tuned Swiss watch--if you mess with the engine too much, it could cause some real problems not covered under warranty. Heck, you may love the car just the way it is and decide not to do anything to it--nothing wrong with that. You save the most money that way ;-)
The Mobil one is good because it protects your turbo. Break the car in gently for about 1000 miles, then put it in. It's some of the best insurance you can buy for the Rex motor.
Good luck, whatever you decide.
You need to thoroughly read all of these links were are showing you.
It also depends on what your ultimate goal is. Safe, reliable power up to 260? Are you concerned about the warranty? Don't care about the warranty and have unlimited funds? Then build a 600 hp monster. It's up to you and your wallet. A front-mounted intercooler (like in the link you posted) usually means serious h.p. gains starting with a bigger turbo.
Most posters here on Edmunds usually take the conservative approach for safe, reliable upgrades.
Some dealers are cool with minor mods (reasonable exhaust, suspension and wheel upgrades). Others will "void" your warranty if you touch anything.
You can use any oil that you want, as long as it has the API starburst symbol.
-Dennis
-juice
At $395 for ~30HP and ~40 lb/ft, it's pretty hard to beat Cobb's AccessECU for $/HP. A quality catback exhaust will cost about the same used (most are $500-$700 new), and will deliver far fewer extra ponies. It's a very basic, DIY install too. The only downside is your car is out of commission for a few days while the ECU travels back and forth to Cobb.
There are lots of quality new and used parts on eBay, but lots of junk too. Be careful, do your homework, and ask the seller questions first.
One more thing: it's a very good idea to approach mods one at a time. That is, don't buy a bunch of new parts and install them all at once. Instead buy and install stuff a piece at a time. That way if there's a problem, you'll be able to identify which part is causing it. It also makes it easier to find your "comfort zone" where you've got the blend of performance and drivability you're after. Not to mention, most folks would prefer to have several little "Christmases" instead of one huge one!
Tom
So, bascially all I want is, the wrx to be a little faster then it is. Ill probally upgrade the breaks suspension and tires. I dont wann avoid the waranty or make a 600hp beast. I just want it to be a little bit better then it is.
So, with the ECU cobb upgrade do I need to have a higher performance exhaust system? so the chip doesn overheat the engine? and im planning on getting a used rex so it depends what the previous owner used as his oil.
And just so there's no misunderstanding on this, you CAN use any conventional 5W30 or 10W30 in the Rex (just be sure to change it out religiously at every 3K mi.), but the benefits of using Mobil 1 far outweigh the additional cost. It has no wax or other natural impurities to gum up your turbo bearings or other engine parts like all the conventional oils do. Plus you can go a lot longer between engine rebuilds using the synthetic.
We've been back and forth about synthetics on the WRX forums ad nauseum, but just the fact that Mitsu is using it as factory fill in their new EVO should give you a clue what rally engineers think on this issue. Especially if you are going to increase performance on your Rex, it is the first line of defense to protect your engine.
On a used Rex with more than 1000 miles, I'd put it in right away provided you don't have any engine leaks.
The Subie WRC teams also use synthetics in their cars, different brand than Mobil tho--Neo synthetic--mucho expensive $10 bucks a quart. Makes the Mobil look cheap.
Replacing the WRX's stock RE92 tires with higher-performance rubber is by far the best way to start with suspension mods. After that it's all a matter of how much $ and ride quality you're willing to sacrifice for tighter handling.
There is a common misperception out there with respect to brake upgrades. The misperception is that aftermarket brake kits offer improved stopping distances . While these kits may stop you a few feet shorter, their primary function is to reduce brake fade (the tendency of braking performance to deteriorate with repeated, rapid stops, such as is experienced on a racetrack). WRX's headed for the track will definitely benefit from beefed up brakes. For a street-driven car, however, brake fade is rarely an issue, and thus many brake upgrades do not represent money well spent. At most, some high performance street pads on the front wheels is all you'd have the need for (assuming you won't be racing your car at the track).
From a September 2002 Car and Driver article:
Assuming a brake system is properly balanced, strong enough to lock a wheel, and not yet hot enough to fade, the stopping distance is largely a function of tire traction, not brakes. Think of it this way: All brake systems, stock and aftermarket, are able to activate the ABS, so how could a stronger brake shorten a stop? Eric Dahl, a brake engineer from Brembo, put it this way: "Don't expect the brake kits to stop you sooner, but expect the 20th lap to feel like the first."
The entire article is insightful:
http://www.caranddriver.com/xp/Caranddriver/features/2002/septemb- - er/200209_feature_braketest.xml
Didn't one of the major car magazines use a WRX for brake kit testing no so long ago? I think the car with just the brake pads did stop a few feet shorter and had the improved repeated braking performance. Didn't seem all that expensive either.
-B
Also, that C&D article on aftermarket brakes also stated that the WRX brakes were very good already.
Secondly, can someone check out these ads for wrx's and tell me which is the better buy?
here are the links: http://autotrader.com/findacar/vdetail.jtmpl?car_id=126784262&- ;dealer_id=&car_year=2002&search_type=used&make=SUB&a- mp;model=IMPREZ&transmission=MAN&distance=any&address- =60089&advanced=y&certified=n&max_mileage=45000&m- ax_price=&min_price=&first_record=26&end_year=2003&am- p;start_year=2002&drive=AWD&engine=4CLDR&body_style=S- EDAN&advcd_on=y&doors=4&=&fuel=&color=&ca- rdist=984 and http://autotrader.com/findacar/vdetail.jtmpl?car_id=124767284&- ;dealer_id=&car_year=2002&search_type=used&make=SUB&a- mp;model=IMPREZ&transmission=MAN&distance=any&address- =60089&advanced=y&certified=n&max_mileage=45000&m- ax_price=&min_price=&first_record=26&end_year=2003&am- p;start_year=2002&drive=AWD&engine=4CLDR&body_style=S- EDAN&advcd_on=y&doors=4&=&fuel=&color=&ca- rdist=1684 and http://autotrader.com/findacar/vdetail.jtmpl?car_id=128199974&- ;dealer_id=&car_year=2002&search_type=used&make=SUB&a- mp;model=IMPREZ&transmission=MAN&distance=any&address- =60089&advanced=y&certified=n&max_mileage=45000&m- ax_price=&min_price=&first_record=26&end_year=2003&am- p;start_year=2002&drive=AWD&engine=4CLDR&body_style=S- EDAN&advcd_on=y&doors=4&=&fuel=&color=&ca- rdist=1265
Me personally, I would buy a new car, this way I know it was not abused.
What do you all think about the extended warranty? Good idea, unnecessary?
I believe he offered 1199 for the 6 yr 80,000 gold coverage. Does anyone have any info on warranty prices?
By the way, thanks to everyone who responded to my previous posts about golf clubs/bike rack/mileage, it definitely pushed me toward the WRX.
With me, I will probably be over the 80K miles before the 4th year, so the extended warrenty is really of little value for me.
What does the warrenty cover? Most decent cars can go close to 100K miles with very few repairs.
If the peace of mind is worth it to you, get it, otherwise, do not, in most cases it will cost more than the amount of repairs you would have to do in that period of time.