The stock air intake draws air exclusively from an intake hole in the side of the car. The filter is 100% enclosed in an airbox, and the only way for air to get in is through the hole. There is another set of vents in the wheel well that both the Aircharger and Scott's Franken-intake can take advantage of, but the stock engine intake doesn't use any air that comes through those vents (because it's encased in a box)
Hey we just got a Krispy Kreme (the first in Canada) about 15 min from my place. Have not gone myself but they say the place is always packed. If I can remember correctly they made like 70 thousand dollars the first day. They also said it was the biggest opening day ever of any of there stores in North America. We Canadians love our Donuts (and beer)
Maybe I will go with the OEM tire on the non-PHP 300M which is the MXV4 Plus. I do prefer good all season traction to extreem handeling. If I want to go fast in the corners I use my Corvette.
Franken-Intake doesn't currently use air from them, but I've been considering putting a hole to access them and an internal spray deflector because at times water can come blasting through there.
My right front door speaker on my M (upgraded Infinity system) has developed a buzz--actually more like a blaaat--at low frequencies. So far, in attempts to fix this, my dealer has isolated some loose wiring, changed the amp, put in a new speaker, and did something else per a TSB on this subject (maybe the speaker grill?). Still no solution.
The service rep told me that they've run into this problem on another M, but in the left side speaker. Has anyone out there encountered this problem and successfully fixed it?
I have changed out all my factory speakers with Rockford-Fosgate component separates. One of the things I always do is to place a piece of Dynamat or similar dead soft material behind the speaker before mounting it. This provides a great seal between the front and back of the speaker and also eliminates any spurious vibrations. With all that has been done already to your system, you may want to try this. It's quite easy on the door speaker. The only other possibility is that the amp they changed is bad also. These Chrysler-Infinity amps are notorious for going bad, both in their amplification and crossover components. Fortunately, they are extremely easy to swap out.
ya know those long strips of rounded metal that run midway up horizontally on all the doors? is it possible to get order something like that? OEM part number? and how much do they run? thanks guys.
Well, got the car back today, and they fixed it! The underside of the passenger front seat is put back together and now works. And the wipers, they put some kind of new switch or something, they now work too. Amazing. Absolutely amazing.
The head guy Tracy who my mother has come to know well, wasn't there when she was, but had said if the parts he had weren't right and the car wasn't fixed, he'd quit just so he wouldn't have to be there when she found out!
Now, we need to buy new wiper blades because one is ripped. We also must wonder what will break next!
The M needs new wiper blades. My question is, should we get the Mopar ones (I have a coupon) or should we just buy them at an auto parts store? Any suggestions?
You need the inserts or the entire blade? OEM.CAR.PARTS.COM has the blades (not sure if the inserts are included or not) for about $14.00 each. More expensive than aftermarket stuff (e.g. Trico), but you can't really go wrong with OEM stuff IMO.
Unusual...when I was looking to see if they sold the door guard material I looked at the rear door hardware and saw that the window trim was well over $100 (wow!), a nut for it was a buck something, and the BOLT for it was about $350! lol. My guess is that someone got a part number messed up, or it's made out of solid platinum.
My experience is that it's a toss up between the OEM and Anco Aeroadvantage blades. Comparable performance, price, and life. The Anco is a direct fit replacement and snaps right on.
The entire replacement blade includes the insert in either case. Length's are 24" and 22"
If your wiper blades still look ok and the finish hasn't weathered the rubber refills work fine and aren't a big deal to replace.
SDMike - My front door window trim that they say is on "national backorder" runs $169 (good thing it's on warranty!).
Is it just me or do any of you go through those sun visor clips like crazy??? I have just noticed that my 2nd one on the drivers side is cracked (the first one I just plain broke by accidentally whacking it -- I have since learned to seat it gently). I guess because it's sunny most of the time here I can claim excessive use. I'm constantly moving my visor from front to side on my way to and from work. They want a ridiculous $8.50 for that little piece of plastic and it doesn't even include the screw.
The only reason I even mentioned Krispy Creme is because a LONG time ago, in this forum I believe, Krispy Kreme was a "big" topic here. I had never heard of them at the time since our major donut supplier around here is Dunkin Donuts. Then, a few years back, while in AZ, I found one while looking for a Dunkin Donuts. As a matter of fact, it was the same one where the last 300M get-together was held. I have no clue what all the fuss is about them. I still like Dunkin Donuts. A new Dandy Donut shop has opened around here. Never heard of them either. Haven't tried them yet.
I can't believe that DC is "thinking" of not building that beautiful convertible! I never saw a car come to life and die again so many times. Are they really nuts? WHY are they upping the HP on the NEON and leaving the 300M engine "static"? Sounds like they're drinking too much of that dark German beer!
beach15-
LOL.... have they reached "1-STAR" status now that the seat and wipers are fixed? ;-))
Here's the latest correspondence from the supplier.
Mike, The plaques are laser engraved. I can easily make the wing logo in the sizes that you asked for. The cost will be the same at 16.00 per pair. To do the 300 logo would require a new set-up and I am not sure if sales would warrant the set-up . The wing logo complete and we could make the plaques available with-in a few days.
Thanks Ira-before I post the information to the forums I guess we need to get a part number so you and we don't get into the hassle of having to return labels meant for the PT cruiser. As they have to be 5" long I suggest that the part numbers be VISORSV-05 and VISORBK-05. The consensus is that we like the rounded edge shape so make sure that it will completely hide a 2-3/8" x 4-3/4" rectangle. One last thing. A lot of our 300M's have a beige interior. Would it be possible to get a gold or bronze background in addition to the silver and black backgrounds.
I have the dealer installed Mopar deflectors( stick on ) that came with the car and they work great.Just love having the window cranked open a couple of inches when it's pouring down with rain without getting the whole inside of the door wet. I will probably switch to the Weathertech deflectors this summer cause they look a lot better.
If you are going to replace the wipers you can go to 28" (instead of 24") on the drivers side and 24" (instead of 22")on the Passanger side. I simply moved the drivers side to the passangers side and purchased a new 28" for the drivers side. They work better (Coverage). I have had mine for 3 years now.
It is the ease of which the air can get into the engine, that is most improtant. The same principal (only in reverse) goes for the exhaust. That is the reason for the low restriction Air filters, Mufflers and such.
I do wish you had a Gtech Pro to test you car. I will contact the members that came to the AZ meet to see if they are interested in comming to Southern California meet.
Off topic. I have purchased two mountian bikes. Both are made by Pacific. The differance is One has FIS derailers and Front and Back Suspension, has (what I call Olympic style frame Alumn.) The other one had Shamono derailers and just front suspension, traditional style frame (also alumn.). Both cost the same new (around $200). Which is better type for trail riding? I can only keep one. Can post picture if needed. Thanks for your input.
i have one with front and back susp. also,and i love it.i rarely ride on trails tho.im usually on the bike paths(asphalt).i think rear susp.hinders up hill climbing on the trails. seems you lose pedal power with rear shock moving.
Beach15, unless you're buying a 300M with welfare checks, the price of a WHOLE wiper blade isn't going to kill you. Why bother, just push the little pin out, and put the new blade in. Christ, are we talking penny wise or what?
Michael - With both bikes being $200, it's likely that the full suspension uses cheaper components (because there's more of them). Cheap full suspension bikes can only get you in trouble, and like on1wheel said, they can hinder climbing because they haven't been adequately engineered to eliminate "bob" and power drain. More expensive full suspension bikes are engineered to minimize this stuff. I had a $350 Mongoose that I broke in every way possible and ended up putting about another $400 in repairs and upgrades into it before I realized I was throwing money in a hole. I'm MUCH happier with a 4 figure bike that I can beat the heck out of. So, without knowing anything more than you typed, I'd lean towards the front suspension bike because it's likely that the drivetrain is of a better quality. If you're riding trails where you really need a full suspension I would recommend upgrading your choice of bikes.
However, send me pictures and model information for the bikes, the front and rear deraileurs, and the shocks and I'll give you my "educated" vote. (mritchi1@san.rr.com)
I'll second sdmike's comments. In that price range, I wouldn't go for the full-suspension bike, and I wouldn't expect to beat it around too much on really rough trails. I have a very early (~'81) Ritchey, no suspension, which I have thrashed thoroughly on very rugged trails in the Rockies. A strong frame and good wheels are the top requirements.
I bet you could talk that guy into putting anything we want on them---just tell him we have 250 members plus more nonmembers--many or whom would be interested in a custom plaque for our M's--I think it should have the "300M" and the wing or else the 300M shield---we should be able to get what we want if the interest is there---maybe we can work out a group purchase through the club and have them direct ship to members via one BIG order--- I think I would be interested if the look is right-- also interested in some nice custom heavy pile carpeted front mats
Visor clip: I thought that plastic clip came with a free screw with every order-- $8.50 for just a plastic clip?--
Speakers: I have that buzz in my front door speakers--not sure if its the speaker or the mounting , but this friday , my negative 2* is replacing them---I'll let you know how it turns out.
air charger---I wonder if water could get into that cone filter from splashing under the car--that wouldnt be very good---any way to prevent that--(screen, shield?)
anyone have a problem with that rubber insert for the facia bolt access falling out of the wheel well area--I lost mine twice---
The "screw" comes when you visit the ".1-STAR"!! ;-))
ruski-
"Isn't Milford kind of far from where you are in CT?"
Nope. It's only 15 minutes away.
"But then I guess you would look for any excuse to go for a ride in your CL-S "
HEY! How'd you know that? ;-)) I'm like the guy in the commercial who goes to Maine for lunch! 12,200+ miles and loving every minute of it.
fastdriver
PS Didn't we have Goodyear LS tires on our 96 Rivs? Did your Riv have road noise? Did your Riv drift with the "crown" in the road? Did they wear out on the edges? Mine didn't.
I replaced my wiper blades with Bosch Micro Edge Excel blades. They are excellent - best I've ever seen (also use Rain-X).
I've been torquing the lug nuts on my PHG M at 80 ft-lb, and have had no rotor warp at 23,500 mi. With previous Chrysler products I paid no attention to lug nut torque, and was lucky to get past 12,000 mi. without the rotors warping. I can't see any mechanical reason why high forces at the rotor hub surface would have a significant effect on warping out at the breaking surface. I've always figured that the problem was mainly related to heat build-up in rotor surfaces that were too thin (or the wrong material) for the application. Now I'm beginning to believe that lug nut torque is also a factor.
This is the Right Reverend Phineas T. Pixel, Dr., speaking to you from the pulpit in the Chrysler 300m Enthusiasts Chapel. It has come to my attention, brothers and sisters that one of our own--sdmike2--has taken it upon his broad..yet manly shoulders to arrange for the FIRST ever Southern California Chysler 300m Enthusiasts Club Rendezvous in Carlsbad, Cali-forn-i-ay on March 16th of this year. He has toiled and fretted, created spreadsheets and worked out deals all in the name of THE club. He has also emailed many of our brothers and sisters of the C300mEC, and--for shame--many of you have not returned either a Yea or a Nay on what looks to be an enlightening experience.
What could be more exciting than to meet and greet in true C300mEC frienship many of the same brothers and sisters who post here in the hallowed halls of edmunds.com? (Can I hear an AMEN? (response: AMEN!)
Imagine if you will, a Chrysler dealership filled with 300m's--all owned by club members, Zaino'ed sheetmetal glistening in the early afternoon sun with club (and maybe some non-club members) in conversation all around you?...Can I heah a Hallaluejah, brothers and sisters? (Response: Hallaluejah, Reverend Phineas!...)
Imagine the look on the sales personnel with all those people-members and non-members alike watching potential customers milling about the parking lot! Can I have ANOTHER Amen?
(Organ music swells up, as the Right Reverend -- and Dr.--Phineas T. Pixel speaks again....) This is what I ask you to do, my brothers and sisters.....I want you to look deep within your selves....and ask yourself: What would Dieter Zetsche, Chrysler's President and CEO do?....wouldn't HE make the small trip to commune with the very same people who share this common interest, this car we call 300m?......(repsonse from the gathered flock: YES!)
Ask yourself: "Am I doing anything THAT important on that particular day in March?..and if you respond "Nay, Reverend Phineas T. Pixel !" , then there's only one thing you have to do....
(Organ music REALLY loud now..the walls of the chapel vibrate with the deep resonance of "Glory, Glory Halleluejah....)
Brothers and sisters, put DOWN those Krispy Kreme donuts, put DOWN the Bud Lite you're holding in your hand, and YEA I say unto you, put DOWN the toilet seat and RUN, not walk....RUN to your keyboard (of course, if you're reading this you're ALREADY at your computer..) and send Brother sdmike2 an email....tell him that Yessss you WILL attend the First Annual Southern California Chrysaler 300m Enthusiasts Club Rendezvous, and make this a day that will long live in the history of theC300mEC...and someday..someday when your grandchildren ask you: "Grandma/Grandpa....tell us about the First Annual Southern California Chrysaler 300m Enthusiasts Club Rendezvous, pleeeeease?!"....your hearts wil be filled with fond recollections of that glorious day.
{I am too overcome with emotions...please...do it...do it for the sdmike2.......thank you, and have a nice day...} (Organ music fades up...and Out)
Its not that high torque loads at the rotors hub cause warping, its inconsistent torque loads on the lug nuts that you get when a pneumatic tool is used to tighten the lug nuts. Almost all tire shops use pneumatic tools to tighten lug nuts.
Achance I must be confused or something, but I don't mean we want just the cheapest, smallest part. I'm just talking about whatever it is that you noramlly replace when one of the rubber blades has started to tear. We have bought these before for god's sake, for another car, I think there just must be some confusion as to what it is I actually mean.
By the way, I do mean the part that you're talking about anyway.
Ok, motivated by Doc's impassioned speech I'm taking a stack of membership applications, dealer discount applications, and wiper cards and I'm going M hunting today on my way to Carlsbad. If you're in the San Diego area, watch out!
uxca300m - Great news Mike , looking forward to getting the final details and placing my order. The black on silver should satisfy everybody who has the grey interior, the gold on black I believe will also go well for people who have the sandstone interior.
easyrider300m - I can understand the suppliers reluctance to customize a "300M" Plague as he specializes in PT Cruiser accesories only. He is the offical supplier to the PT DIY Club. uxca300m and I did a internet search for for any other supplier who does something similar and this is the only one we could find. Also there was only a few of us who were interested in purchasing the plaques initially and it was important for us to secure the correct size of plaque at a decent price ($16 US). Since then we have had only approx 15 - 20 people express an interest in purchasing the plaques. Without giving the supplier a quaranted order of say 100 it probably does not warrant him customizing the plaque. The Club may like to explore this possibility, but for now it is probably best to let everybody individually order direct from the supplier once the final details are made.
Gee, skip this board for a few days and get a few hundred messages behind. That'll teach me.
Kimies, if you are still wondering about tint and spoiler, here's what I can contribute. I had my tinting done at Gilbert Car Wash on Gilbert Rd just south of Guadalupe. $135 including tax (but that was nearly 3 years ago, so it might be higher now) with a lifetime warranty; metallic tint. They did a fine job; the 300 is the 2nd car we've had them do.
My spoiler was installed by the dealer (Earnhardt). It never occurred to me to get one over the internet and as such I paid about twice what I should have. But it was worry free and convenient at the time, so I'm not too upset.
I finally got around to ordering a set from MacNeil. Nothing more annoying than having water dripping in if you want to keep your window cracked open a little. Anyone use these?
SDMike-I have an appointment tomorrow at Tint Devil to have my windows done. I'm going to do the same thing you did. Just call me copycat!
A tire shop overtightened the lugs on the wife's old Stratus. Before I realized it, it was too late and rotors became warped. After that, I got religious about double checking the lug torque after I'd get the car back from service work that required pulling the wheels.
Torque is recommended to be between 80 and 100 lb. feet. If a shop is just tightening them with a impact gun and not actually torquing the lugs properly it would be easy to over tighten them. Getting them evenly torqued is really important to avoid warping.
I finally got around to ordering a set from MacNeil. Nothing more annoying than having water dripping in if you want to keep your window cracked open a little. Anyone use these?
SDMike-I have an appointment tomorrow at Tint Devil to have my windows done. I'm going to do the same thing you did. Just call me copycat!
I've been thinking of ordering some but wondered how they would look on a 300M. When I entered make and model, they only quoted fronts. I assume that they also make them for the rear windows. Let me know when you get them re: installation,quality,etc. Thanks, Rick
Comments
The service rep told me that they've run into this problem on another M, but in the left side speaker. Has anyone out there encountered this problem and successfully fixed it?
Thanks in advance for your advice.
The head guy Tracy who my mother has come to know well, wasn't there when she was, but had said if the parts he had weren't right and the car wasn't fixed, he'd quit just so he wouldn't have to be there when she found out!
Now, we need to buy new wiper blades because one is ripped. We also must wonder what will break next!
Auto Show
No one else is going I take it?
Unusual...when I was looking to see if they sold the door guard material I looked at the rear door hardware and saw that the window trim was well over $100 (wow!), a nut for it was a buck something, and the BOLT for it was about $350! lol. My guess is that someone got a part number messed up, or it's made out of solid platinum.
The entire replacement blade includes the insert in either case. Length's are 24" and 22"
If your wiper blades still look ok and the finish hasn't weathered the rubber refills work fine and aren't a big deal to replace.
Is it just me or do any of you go through those sun visor clips like crazy??? I have just noticed that my 2nd one on the drivers side is cracked (the first one I just plain broke by accidentally whacking it -- I have since learned to seat it gently). I guess because it's sunny most of the time here I can claim excessive use. I'm constantly moving my visor from front to side on my way to and from work. They want a ridiculous $8.50 for that little piece of plastic and it doesn't even include the screw.
The only reason I even mentioned Krispy Creme is because a LONG time ago, in this forum I believe, Krispy Kreme was a "big" topic here. I had never heard of them at the time since our major donut supplier around here is Dunkin Donuts. Then, a few years back, while in AZ, I found one while looking for a Dunkin Donuts. As a matter of fact, it was the same one where the last 300M get-together was held. I have no clue what all the fuss is about them. I still like Dunkin Donuts. A new Dandy Donut shop has opened around here. Never heard of them either. Haven't tried them yet.
I can't believe that DC is "thinking" of not building that beautiful convertible! I never saw a car come to life and die again so many times. Are they really nuts? WHY are they upping the HP on the NEON and leaving the 300M engine "static"? Sounds like they're drinking too much of that dark German beer!
beach15-
LOL.... have they reached "1-STAR" status now that the seat and wipers are fixed? ;-))
fastdriver
Mike,
The plaques are laser engraved. I can easily make the wing logo in
the sizes that you asked for. The cost will be the same at 16.00 per pair.
To do the 300 logo would require a new set-up and I am not sure if sales
would warrant the set-up . The wing logo complete and we could make the
plaques available with-in a few days.
Thanks Ira-before I post the information to the forums I guess we need to get
a part number so you and we don't get into the hassle of having to return labels
meant for the PT cruiser. As they have to be 5" long I suggest that the part
numbers be VISORSV-05 and VISORBK-05. The consensus is that we like the rounded
edge shape so make sure that it will completely hide a 2-3/8" x 4-3/4"
rectangle.
One last thing. A lot of our 300M's have a beige interior. Would it be possible
to get a gold or bronze background in addition to the silver and black
backgrounds.
deflectors this summer cause they look a lot better.
it doesn't even include the screw.
I'm not going to say anything. I want to but I'm not. I'm laughing so hard I fell off my computer chair:-)
I will contact the members that came to the AZ meet to see if they are interested in comming to Southern California meet.
Thanks for your input.
However, send me pictures and model information for the bikes, the front and rear deraileurs, and the shocks and I'll give you my "educated" vote. (mritchi1@san.rr.com)
Oh..I'd recommend full suspension if you ride stuff like this (me at mammoth this summer)... http://www.ritchiefamily.com/pics/P0002544.jpg
But then I guess you would look for any excuse to go for a ride in your CL-S
Visor clip: I thought that plastic clip came with a free screw with every order-- $8.50 for just a plastic clip?--
Speakers: I have that buzz in my front door speakers--not sure if its the speaker or the mounting , but this friday , my negative 2* is replacing them---I'll let you know how it turns out.
air charger---I wonder if water could get into that cone filter from splashing under the car--that wouldnt be very good---any way to prevent that--(screen, shield?)
anyone have a problem with that rubber insert for the facia bolt access falling out of the wheel well area--I lost mine twice---
The "screw" comes when you visit the ".1-STAR"!! ;-))
ruski-
"Isn't Milford kind of far from where you are in CT?"
Nope. It's only 15 minutes away.
"But then I guess you would look for any excuse to go for a ride in your CL-S "
HEY! How'd you know that? ;-)) I'm like the guy in the commercial who goes to Maine for lunch! 12,200+ miles and loving every minute of it.
fastdriver
PS Didn't we have Goodyear LS tires on our 96 Rivs? Did your Riv have road noise? Did your Riv drift with the "crown" in the road? Did they wear out on the edges? Mine didn't.
http://www.detnews.com/2002/autosinsider/0202/07/b01-409740.htm
fastdriver
I've been torquing the lug nuts on my PHG M at 80 ft-lb, and have had no rotor warp at 23,500 mi. With previous Chrysler products I paid no attention to lug nut torque, and was lucky to get past 12,000 mi. without the rotors warping. I can't see any mechanical reason why high forces at the rotor hub surface would have a significant effect on warping out at the breaking surface. I've always figured that the problem was mainly related to heat build-up in rotor surfaces that were too thin (or the wrong material) for the application. Now I'm beginning to believe that lug nut torque is also a factor.
It has come to my attention, brothers and sisters that one of our own--sdmike2--has taken it upon his broad..yet manly shoulders to arrange for the FIRST ever Southern California Chysler 300m Enthusiasts Club Rendezvous in Carlsbad, Cali-forn-i-ay on March 16th of this year. He has toiled and fretted, created spreadsheets and worked out deals all in the name of THE club. He has also emailed many of our brothers and sisters of the C300mEC, and--for shame--many of you have not returned either a Yea or a Nay on what looks to be an enlightening experience.
What could be more exciting than to meet and greet in true C300mEC frienship many of the same brothers and sisters who post here in the hallowed halls of edmunds.com? (Can I hear an AMEN? (response: AMEN!)
Imagine if you will, a Chrysler dealership filled with 300m's--all owned by club members, Zaino'ed sheetmetal glistening in the early afternoon sun with club (and maybe some non-club members) in conversation all around you?...Can I heah a Hallaluejah, brothers and sisters?
(Response: Hallaluejah, Reverend Phineas!...)
Imagine the look on the sales personnel with all those people-members and non-members alike watching potential customers milling about the parking lot! Can I have ANOTHER Amen?
(Organ music swells up, as the Right Reverend -- and Dr.--Phineas T. Pixel speaks again....)
This is what I ask you to do, my brothers and sisters.....I want you to look deep within your selves....and ask yourself: What would Dieter Zetsche, Chrysler's President and CEO do?....wouldn't HE make the small trip to commune with the very same people who share this common interest, this car we call 300m?......(repsonse from the gathered flock: YES!)
Ask yourself: "Am I doing anything THAT important on that particular day in March?..and if you respond "Nay, Reverend Phineas T. Pixel !" , then there's only one thing you have to do....
(Organ music REALLY loud now..the walls of the chapel vibrate with the deep resonance of "Glory, Glory Halleluejah....)
Brothers and sisters, put DOWN those Krispy Kreme donuts, put DOWN the Bud Lite you're holding in your hand, and YEA I say unto you, put DOWN the toilet seat and RUN, not walk....RUN to your keyboard (of course, if you're reading this you're ALREADY at your computer..) and send Brother sdmike2 an email....tell him that Yessss you WILL attend the First Annual Southern California Chrysaler 300m Enthusiasts Club Rendezvous, and make this a day that will long live in the history of theC300mEC...and someday..someday when your grandchildren ask you: "Grandma/Grandpa....tell us about the First Annual Southern California Chrysaler 300m Enthusiasts Club Rendezvous, pleeeeease?!"....your hearts wil be filled with fond recollections of that glorious day.
{I am too overcome with emotions...please...do it...do it for the sdmike2.......thank you, and have a nice day...}
(Organ music fades up...and Out)
I must be confused or something, but I don't mean we want just the cheapest, smallest part. I'm just talking about whatever it is that you noramlly replace when one of the rubber blades has started to tear. We have bought these before for god's sake, for another car, I think there just must be some confusion as to what it is I actually mean.
By the way, I do mean the part that you're talking about anyway.
The black on silver should satisfy everybody who has the grey interior, the gold on black I believe will also go well for people who have the sandstone interior.
easyrider300m - I can understand the suppliers reluctance to customize a "300M" Plague as he specializes in PT Cruiser accesories only. He is the offical supplier to the PT DIY Club. uxca300m and I did a internet search for for any other supplier who does something similar and this is the only one we could find. Also there was only a few of us who were interested in purchasing the plaques initially and it was important for us to secure the correct size of plaque at a decent price ($16 US). Since then we have had only approx 15 - 20 people express an interest in purchasing the plaques. Without giving the supplier a quaranted order of say 100 it probably does not warrant him customizing the plaque. The Club may like to explore this possibility, but for now it is probably best to let everybody individually order direct from the supplier once the final details are made.
Kimies, if you are still wondering about tint and spoiler, here's what I can contribute. I had my tinting done at Gilbert Car Wash on Gilbert Rd just south of Guadalupe. $135 including tax (but that was nearly 3 years ago, so it might be higher now) with a lifetime warranty; metallic tint. They did a fine job; the 300 is the 2nd car we've had them do.
My spoiler was installed by the dealer (Earnhardt). It never occurred to me to get one over the internet and as such I paid about twice what I should have. But it was worry free and convenient at the time, so I'm not too upset.
Igor
SDMike-I have an appointment tomorrow at Tint Devil to have my windows done. I'm going to do the same thing you did. Just call me copycat!
Torque is recommended to be between 80 and 100 lb. feet. If a shop is just tightening them with a impact gun and not actually torquing the lugs properly it would be easy to over tighten them.
Getting them evenly torqued is really important to avoid warping.
SDMike-I have an appointment tomorrow at Tint Devil to have my windows done. I'm going to do the same thing you did. Just call me copycat!
Thanks,
Rick