Nissan Pathfinder Owners Care & Maintenance

pat5000 · August 2001

I just did a drain & fill on tranny. Put in Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. Drained approximately 4 qts. Will do this about every 10k miles. I'm
at ~10k now, will eventually be full syn.

nismofreak · September 2001

Steve,
I am not really looking to get messy here. Just wondering whether or not there is a "real" way of draining all the fluid out of the tranny. And it now seems that there isn't so I guess I will go the route of mixing in synth and dino and hope to approach full synth after a few drains.

-nismo

brian60 · September 2001

lrobert and others ...

Turtle Wax makes a product called Black Chrome (~$3 at the local Kragen's) that is a rub-on liquid compound for restoring luster to black trim. I originally used it because I got wax on the trim and it had left a white residue. It worked so well that I began using it on other pieces, such as the step on the rear bumper and the mudflaps, to restore that new car appearance. Hope this helps.

mbunting · September 2001

Recall Alert: NISSAN PATHFINDER
Owner Notification Date: 9/11/2001
Number of Units Potentially Affected: 31,000
Component Description: STRUCTURE:HATCHBACK HINGE AND ATTACHMENTS
NHTSA Campaign Number: 01V282000
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Description of Recall Campaign:
Vehicle Description: Passenger vehicles. 2001 model year Nissan Pathfinder
vehicles manufactured from December 20, 2000, through June 8, 2001, and 2001
model year Infiniti QX4 vehicles manufacturer from January 8 to June 8, 2001.
Some of the brackets used to attach the two gas struts to the rear door (hatch)
may not have been made to specification. At high ambient temperature, the
increase in gas pressure in the strut(s) may cause one or both brackets to bend,
resulting in the struts detaching from the bracket(s) when opening or closing
the rear door.

If both struts detach from the brackets, the door will rapidly fall down and
possibly strike someone, possibly causing serious injury.

Dealers will replace the brackets for the struts free of charge.
Owner notification is expected to begin during September 2001. Owners who
take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and
do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact Nissan at
1-800-647-7261. Hawaiian residents should call 1-808-836-0888. Also contact
the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at
1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).

xplorx4 · September 2001

Last weekend I climbed under my truck (a 97 LE 4x4) to change the oil and look for any other abnormalities. I noticed grease on the right axleshaft and splats of grease on the fender and front suspension.

"Hmmm, that doesn't look right." After the oil change, I investigated the source of the grease and found that the inner CV boot was torn- quite significantly.

Fortunately, the tear appeared to be recent, as the grease splats seemed fresh and dust-free. The next business day I took the truck in to be repaired, and was quoted only $20 for parts and $120 for labor. They mentioned that if I had not noticed the problem, it's likely the axle would have needed to be replaced (at a cost of $300 parts/$140 labor).

It definitely pays to be familiar with the underside of your truck, and inspect it often.

aspenwhite · September 2001

The front axle housing (psgr.side) on my 01-LE, has been leaking what it seems to be gear oil since day one. It's not pretty bad, maybe a drop on the floor every 3 or 4 days, but enough to get me worried. The dealer told me a couple of times that it was normal bleeding and that eventually will go away. Since it's still happening after 5000miles, I called the dealer today to schedule an appointment and also spoke w/the tech. He's saying now that many owners are having the same problem and mine is nothing compared w/other 01 PF's. Is any one having the same problem? I'm asking myself why if this problem is so common I do not see any postings?? He also told me that it's not gear oil but grease from the CV boot that somehow it's making it through the from axle housing ?? That's this make any sense?? Your advise is very much appreciated.
TIA.-AW

pathstar · September 2001

Mine has never leaked a drop. It's not even oily at the shaft. May have been overfilled, causing pressure to build up inside. Anyway, I don't think it's "common".

aspenwhite · September 2001

PathStar:
That's what I thought too but I checked the front diff fluid level and it is OK. I don't know what to think, to me it's gear oil and the tech keep telling me that is grease from the CV boot?. I am going to wait to see if someone else is having the same problem here.
Thanks for your reply!.-AW

xplorx4 · September 2001

Where exactly is the oil leak coming from? If it's from the "pumpkin" it's diff oil. It shouldn't be possible for CV grease to leak, except from the CV boot itself. If it's from the CV axles where they bolt onto the diff housing (shown removed from vehicle below) , it could be diff oil, if the axle bolts or seals are malfunctioning.

If the oil has a strong odor, however, it's likely diff oil. It's wise to have it fixed. Let us know what it was.

aspenwhite · September 2001

xplorx4:
It's leaking from the CV axle where it bolts onto the diff housing (passenger's side). The mechanic told me that although it looks like gear oil (green/strong odor), it's actually grease from the CV boot and in order to fix it they will have to remove the CV boot and seal something in there using some kind of silicone adhesive? I know nothing about front differentials nor CV boots but this doesn't sound right to me.
After Pathstar's reply, I removed the filler plug to make sure the oil level was OK, let it drain until no oil was coming out (it was about a measuring cup overfilled) I drove it abt 50 miles and the leak is 60% gone! Do you guys think a measuring cup overfill can cause a leak??
Thanks so much for taking the time to help me!
Regards, AW

xplorx4 · September 2001

aspenwhite-

Honestly, I don't know how the innards of the diff housing are arranged in order to cause overfilling to leak out the side, nor if the mechanic's diagnosis about the CV boots was accurate. It sounds like you may have fixed the problem, but if it persists, I would still take it to the dealer under warranty. I know it's an inconvenience, but in the long run, it's worth it take care of it before the warranty expires.

aspenwhite · October 2001

- I took my 01-LE this morning for service and the following is what the mechanic wrote on the work order:
>>Oil residue from inner CV Joint seaping past retainer plate on inner CV Joint. R&I inner CV Joint and sealed retainer plates on both front CV axles<< So, the leaking was not gear oil but CV boot grease. I did not notice any leaks today so it seems that the problem has been corrected. Thanks for the input guys! -AW

xplorx4 · October 2001

I recently did some work on the front axles on my truck. While I was in there, I took some photos of where the CV joint bolts up to the axle.

Click here to see an image of the axle housing where the CV joint bolts up.

Click here to see an image of the CV joint plate

aspenwhite · October 2001

XPLORx4:
It all makes sense to me now after seeing your photos. If you ever think about moving to Colorado, let me know...I want to be your neighbor

Thanks again for your time! BTW, your LE looks awesome! -AW

gerald57 · October 2001

I have a 2001SE, the owners manual on page 10-2 says for the VQ35DE engine is to use minimum 91AKI so we use "plus "gasolines and always a major supplier like Shell, Exxon, etc. I rarely buy from the stop and robs. Good gas, new filters, and frequent oil changes with either synthetic or synthetic/mineral combos are cheaper then all the trouble you can have. I have an 85 Maxima with 207000 plus miles on it and it runs great with no major problems with the engine, clutches, well my kid goes through those soon enough!! I have tried the regular grade, but noticed a ping when I get on it real hard. These engines are a little higher compression the those that use regular. Just my thoughts.

Karen_S · October 2001

Check out the new Edmunds.com Maintenance Guide! Link is provided in the Additional Resource Box.

KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs

baddestbob1 · October 2001

Have reached about 6000KM on 2001 SE with AWD and plan to have car buff son change oil, tranny, differentials. My dumb question, do you need to replace filter and seal on transmission when changing? Does transfer case fluid need to be changed? (Where is it?)
Bought Havoline auto tran fluid, Mercon Dexron III, Mobil lSAE 75W-90, GL 5 Synthetic gear lube for transfer case, Valvoline Synthetic Blend 80W-90 gear oil, GL 5 for front and rear differentials. Rear is Limited slip. Valvoline label says recommended for regular and limited slip. Does this mix xound OK? Thanks for comments. Bob

meca2 · October 2001

The trans has just a screen. Not a paper filter. I changed the filter but I would not do it again. The drain plug drains most of the oil out. I also changed the fluid in the transfer case if you use the AWD during the winter on icy and snowy roads alot it might be a good idea to change this fluid once per year. The transfer case has several clutches that engage and slip to transfer torque to the front axle and the fluid will need changing. Also there are two pumps in the transfer case that would last longer pumping clean oil. There is a drain and filler plug I think you use a 3/8 square
extension to remove and replace the plugs. Should be easy to spot the plugs on the drivers side of the case.
Very important!! Transfercase uses auto trans fluid!!

baddestbob1 · October 2001

Thanks for heads up, not sure how I got wrong info on 75-W90. Got oil, filter, tranny, front differential changed last night, about 4000 miles.
Polished and waxed with Meguiar's Showcar Glaze and Yellow wax # 23. Found a new (for me) product, Meguiar's Gold Class Trim Detailer ,that worked Super on black trim. It obliterated wax residue and left everything looking like new. Great stuff.

mazadi · November 2001

I was recently the unlucky recipient of a rear ending. Some idiot wasn't paying attention and plowed into the car behind me at a stop light. She hit the car behind me so hard that it was forced into mine, and did a fair amount of damage. The woman who caused the accident blamed everything and everyone except the fact that she was on her cell phone and not paying attention! She even tried to blame a tire that was on the side of the road. Unfortunately, that tire was MY spare tire which was broken off when the car she hit was pushed underneath my car. Arrghhh!

Unfortunately, there are no Nissan dealers near me. My insurance company has suggested taking my car to the body shop of a Honda dealer near my house. Does anyone know if it matters whether I take my car to a Nissan dealer, or is it just important to take it to a reputable shop?

danog · November 2001

Mazadi,
I would suggest finding a body shop with a good reputation. Although a Nissan shop is more familiar with Nissan vehicles, most body shop and paint guys learn to work on all types of vehicles. I have had a few cars repaired and I can't tell you how important it is to find someone who will not rush the job and do it right. I have several friends that went to school and paint cars. It is pretty amazing what they can see that I can't. Find several shops and decide which one you feel most comfortable with.
It really doesn't matter what she was doing, even though she was on the phone, she hit you guys from the rear which is automatically her fault in Alabama. Sorry to hear your troubles but I hope this info will help.

Dano

mazadi · November 2001

Dano-thanks for the info. I've decided to go with the shop that my insurance suggested because my insurance will then warrantee the work as well as the shop.

You're right that it should automatically be her fault. Unfortunately, her insurance is claiming that the other driver was too close to me so they are only partially responsible. I'm going to have to cover this on my own insurance, while my insurance company battles it out with the other two companies in arbitration. What a pain.

danog · November 2001

Well let them say the driver was to close to you, just have your insurance company ask them did they hit you before being hit or after. I guess there could be some law stating how close you can be before being to close. It is a pain for all involved, at least you are safe.

Dano

kpt_krunch · December 2001

Any advantages to using mid-grade fuel on a 2000 pathfinder that requires only 87AKI? Will engine run cleaner or it is a waste of money? If a waste, why is there 89 grade fuel? What is its purpose?

brian60 · December 2001

Kpt_Krunch,

Short answer:

Don't waste your money on 89 for an 87 octane engine.

Long answer:

The octane rating is a measurement of how easily a gasoline ignites (i.e. at what temperature/pressure it will combust). The higher the rating, the more resistant the gasoline is to combustion. In high-performance engines (i.e. high compression, variable valve timing, etc.), you "cook" the air-fuel mixture more in order to derive more power, and hence you need high-octane fuel so that it doesn't combust prematurely and cause the engine to "knock" or "ping."

Old, dirty engines will develop carbon deposits in various nooks and crannies on the piston face which will create "hot spots" - areas which are significantly hotter than the rest of the cylinder - and prematurely ignite the air-fuel mixture. Instead of performing costly engine work, many people will simply feed a higher octane gasoline to these engines until the knocking goes away. It is simply a band-aid instead of a real cure.

In normal engines, there is nothing to be gained from a higher octane gas than recommended, since all you are buying is a greater resistance to combustion that you don't need. Oil companies used to add better detergents to premium gas, but all the detergents in all brands and grades of gasoline are so good now that that rationale behind buying premium is moot. Going to a lower than recommended grade of gasoline should not be done. A modern engine probably won't knock because the electronic ignition will retard the timing of the spark, but that will lead to a loss of power, lower fuel economy, and possible long-term damage.

Considering all of the above, my 3.3L engine only drinks 87 and so should yours.

kpt_krunch · December 2001

Thanks for the info Brian, it's kind of what I thought. Nothing but 87 for now on (that's what is recommended).

pathstar · December 2001

It gets even more interesting. The second gen. non-turbo RX-7 (rotary engine) gets much poorer mileage with premium fuel compared to 87 octane. Turns out the premium burns to slow or ignites too late in the cycle and much of it is lost burning in the exhaust pipe. I haven't experienced this in a 4 cycle piston engine, but I've read of others having it happen to them. It's happened to me in 2 stroke motorcycles.

Newer vehicles with computer controls should adapt, but the range they can adapt over may be limited (e.g. beware in Mexico if you need premium and try to run regular because it was all you could get).

baddestbob1 · January 2002

I've noticed since recent big drop in gasoline prices that many stations are no longer charging the $.20 per gallon lug on 91 over 87 octane. I have found one that is only .09 higher. Makes you wonder doesn't in. Old timers will remember when they wanted more money for unleaded than leaded gas when both were readily available.

01path · January 2002

I love these message boards! They have helped me out in the past and I am looking for some help again. I recently noticed some tiny reddish-orange "specks" on my 2001 Pathfinder SE (Sierra Silver). They look like "rust dust". I don't think there is a paint defect as the specks are on the molding as well as the doors, rear lift gate and bumper. It is extremely difficult to remove the spots. I have tried bug and tar remover but have found using my fingernail works better. However, I am not thrilled at doing this for what seems like 100 or more specks, and I don't want to risk damaging the paint. As a result, I have three primary questions:

1) Does anyone know what caused this? I have owned the vehicle for 6 months (since new), but have never noticed this in the past. I live in Michigan where we have been getting a lot of snow, but I don't that snow (or the road salt) is the culprit. I also don't think any sort of acid rain fallout is responsible either as there are no spots on my hood or roof.

2) Is there a product available that can remove these spots without harming the vehicle's finish? As I mentioned before, I have really only tried Bug & Tar remover so far.

3) Is there a wax or polish available that can treat the painted surface to make it more difficult for the rust spots to adhere (or make it easier to remove them in the future)?

Any comments/suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for the help!

Mike

emccarthy1 · January 2002

I just purchased a used 98 Pathfinder with 32,000 miles on it. I have a few questions. I do not know who owned the car before so I assumed that the dealer did an overhaul on the car, but, it pulls to the right so I am assuming it needs an alignment, It is very loud in the back seat so I am assuming that the tires are not the right tires . My biggest concern is that the wheel bearings? have not been repacked. I have never owned a 4-wheel drive vehicle so I have no idea when to have it done or what to look for if they need to be done. I think the owners manual said to have it done at 30,000 miles but I have to assume it was not done. Does anyone have any suggestions for maintenance? I am coming from a 1992 Sundance. I was going to follow the owner's manual recommendations for maintenance but would appreciate any advice for things to look out for. Thanks in advance. This is the first time I have ever posted a question so bear with me.

baddestbob1 · January 2002

Look in main comment board, recent date, for link to above. Check town hall title postings under SUV also. Might find some good info at SUV.com

mpg5 · January 2002

i have 67300m on truck and may sell in 6-12 mos. i drive approx 7500m per yr. i know 60000m is recommended change, but i know a few people who went 90k or 100k before changing belt. is it worth the gamble, and approx how much does the job cost? thanks in advance.

smpathy01se · February 2002

I use to own a 95 Pathy. I think the manual stated something like 100k or 105k. Pre-93 engines required replacement at 60k.

smokey75 · February 2002

Hey, I have a 2001 PF & was wondering if any one else has had these problems:
1) My brakes are pulsating like I need the rotors turned... with only 16000 miles on it.
2) I've rotated my tires twice & both times I noticed a lot of tire wear on the outer edges of the fronts. I'm hoping I just need the camber adjusted or they're toe'd in too much. I just hope the dealership doesn't tell me they all do that.

Also, something that surprised me... I was checking the transfer case fluid for the first time (15,000 mile maint.) & when I removed the fill plug fluid ran out until it dropped to that level. Dealership says they overfill them at the factory & it's nothing to worry about. Just let it drain to the fill plug. Thought you might want to know. Thanks...

superdave42 · February 2002

My 2001 pathfinder exhibits a "boinging" noise after shutting engine off - happens within a couple of minutes, sounds like a metal lid snapping back in shape. Dealer says it is the engine heat shield, and not a problem? I'm close to warranty end, wondering if this is a real, future problem? Started sometime after first year of use. Any clues?

danog · February 2002

We have right at 30K miles and our brakes pulsate as well. Just had the 30K service and they checked the brakes(I hope) and did not say anything about it. I know another PF owner and her brakes pulsated as well. she had them turned and so far it has not returned. Must be something in the mechanics. Could be driving habits too.

Dano

jeckles · February 2002

My brakes have started to pulsate at just under 12k miles.

Will have the dealer check... but suspect warped rotors from uneven lugnut torque...

I wonder if the rotors are too small for this SUV and are overheating? Ford had a big recall on early taurus, because of rotor problems...

smokey75 · February 2002

I really think the rotors are warping due to a poor design (like you said jeckles). I rotate my own tires & use a torque stick to tighten them to spec so I don't think that did it. Just took it in for them to check this out & he said the rotors are fine (which probably means they didn't even touch them). He said the tires still have the original factory weights & that he thinks it's a balancing problem. You don't need to balance the tires regularly. Only if there's a problem. I'm not sure how the fact the original weights are still on means it's a balance problem. I don't think they even checked the balance. Anyway, I have the service manual & it says to check for warped rotors you measure the diameter of the rotor in 8 spots with a caliper & the variation can't be more than .015mm. So, I'll check this myself & take it back if I find what I think I'll find.

brian60 · February 2002

If you get the pulsating at highway speeds, it's probably a balance issue, but if you only get it while braking at highway speeds, it's due to warped rotors - believe me, I've had both. At 41k miles, I'm about to have my rotors checked and probably replaced for the third time for the same pulsating sensation - seems like the rotors are undersized for a vehicle with this much mass.

Dave, my PF exhibits the same metallic "crinkling" and it is merely the heat shields shrinking back to their original shape after the heat from the exhaust system has caused them to expand during driving. If you crawl under your vehicle sometime, you can see them for yourself - they look like industrial tin foil if memory serves ...

smokey75 · February 2002

I agree BRIAN60. My pulsating is only when braking... not a constant like a balancing issue.

danog · March 2002

I just had ours service finally and the recommended service was only $160. It only cost me $90 because I had already completed a few things myself. The next scheduled service that cost a bit is the 60K service. When I purchased the Pathy I was given an older maintenance schedule for the older model Pathy's with the higher priced 30K service.

Dano

ssbf · March 2002

Recommendation is to have the microfilter replaced every 15,000 miles. Anyone replaced this yourself and how much does the replacement filter cost?

ssbf · March 2002

$160 for 30k service is real cheap. In my area the following service maintenance is as follows:
1)3750 miles = $29.95 (basically oil and filter change

2) 7500 miles = $160

3) 15,000 miles = $275 ( after 12 months)

4) 30K miles = $ 390

YES, $390 for the 30 K service. Ouch!

duper · March 2002

You can order it through the Internet which is much cheaper than the dealers. http://www.nissanpartsusa.com has them for $32, which is alot cheaper than the $61 the dealer quoted me. I'm not sure if you can use the one from the Xterra; they look the same and the Xterras' is cheaper.

You can go to this link for the "how-to-install" instruction

http://www.xterraparts.com/onlinestore/graphics/00000001/InCabinMicroFilter_Instr.gif

....

danog · March 2002

I don't have the maintenance list with me right now but I would check to see what they are actually doing. I'll post the services performed when I get my list. Only the items listed in the manual for the 30K service are required. If they add other items you may be better off eliminating them from the service, unless you need it.

Dano

jeckles · March 2002

Got my rotors turned last week. Just barely covered it under warranty (at 12019 miles).

Service Rep. was new, but said many factors influence rotor warpage.... blah, blah, blah...

They said rear brakes were taking their share of the load, but I'll bleed them this weekend to be sure.

brian60 · March 2002

jeckles,

I was able to get my dealership to replace warped rotors twice under the 36k warranty, at about 12-15k mile intervals. The last time it was performed I asked what would happen if they warped again and the truck was out of warranty - he said "well, I'm sure that Nissan would cover it" or something to that effect. Well, they've warped again at 41k and my new service rep said that they're hands were tied because Nissan would reject the claim outright since the truck is out of warranty - I have to call Nissan myself.

I personally think that the rotors are undersized because friends with similar vehicles and driving habits are not having rotors replaced once a year.

rendragg · May 2002

battery ran down with lights on, attempted to start and alarm system activated.

Installed new battery, have entered car with key many times, still immobilized.

If anyone has a shop manual could you look this up for me.

jambazi · May 2002

Anybody have that microfilter replaced by the dealer at the 15,000 or 30,000 mile service? They didn't at the dealer I went to, because they said that it wasn't necessary. They said they checked it, which I seriously doubt. The sticker on the glove box says that it needs to be replaced at 15,000. I was wondering if anybody was able to get that as part of the regular service or not? I'm thinking that we might have to pay extra for it because it's an option and doesn't affect driveability. Also, 1-800-NISSAN1 told me that it doesn't come with the regular service.

sivi1 · June 2002

just took my 02 le to my dealer for minor problem. vehicle has only 5k mi. and told them i saw a oil mark on garage floor. moral 2 bad rear shocks. i have never had this problem with two 4 runners i had .anyone with this problem ?

Nissan Pathfinder Owners Care & Maintenance

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Nissan Pathfinder Owners Care &amp; Maintenance

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Nissan Pathfinder Owners Care & Maintenance