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Nissan Pathfinder Owners Care & Maintenance
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Are there any major scheduled maintence items the Pathy needs to keep going strong like valve adjustments, repacking wheel bearings, etc?
I had the 30K special service at dealer(which was mainly just "checks") but otherwise I've just been changing the oil & rotating the tires.
fyrftr@blackplanet.com
Engine off with key in the ignition on the "On" position, disconnect the negative battery terminal. Reconnect neg. terminal after 20 minutes or so with key out of ignition (Longer wait if you want to make sure to use up all residual power).
Should reset DTC codes but some codes that are activated with ignition "on" position will not go away until problem is resolved.
Rear Passenger side Drum Brakes Locking up?
I have a 1999.5 Pathfinder SE with 50,000 miles.
and occasionally like 5 or 6 times in last 6 months the Rear passenger drum brake locks on
and you can smell the Pads wearing and it is Hot?
Also sometime you can here a low buzzing like
electronical motor stuck on or something when it happens? Then if you let it sit it just stop and can be fine for another month? Very Strange?
Just curious if anyone has any input before I start tearing it apart...
We rarely use the emergency break and yes the emergency break is off when the problem happens. It only seem to be the rear passenger side not the driver side and front breaks are fine. Front pads changed around 36K
Thanks for any thoughts
Sharky
There is no Nissan dealer in town, so I took it to Infiniti today for a service and they said that my brakes were fine and that I had 5.5mm in the front. At how many mm do I know I need new brakes? Infiniti quoted me $400 for front brakes, is $400 too much, or should I go to a brake specialty store like Midas?
Thanks,
2nd-generation unibody Pathfinders (96-04) use the chassis ID "R50". This chassis is unique to the Pathfinder and the Infiniti QX4.
3rd-generation Pathfinders (05+) are built on a modifed Titan/Armada chassis. Sorry, I don't know the chassis ID.
Thanks,
V
The next problem is that my power locks, door lock remote, and security system do not work.
I'm also curious about replacements parts, like seat covers, door handles, mirrors, hubcaps, etc... Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, wwjbl
I bought the Zaino car care product (zfx, z2, z5, z6, and z7) after reading a lot of reviews on different web sites. My 05 Pathy is a month old and I have tried washing and polishing with “armor all”, the results are OK but I want to get that show car finish. Being a new car I feel this is the time to apply some premium polish to retain that glossy showroom look.
Please send me any recommendations or suggestions whether to apply this polish and if it is safe to do so.
Thanks all!
First, remember that anytime you touch the vehicle you scratch it! Usually the scratches are too small to see, but they can add up. Try to avoid circular motions, as the scratches they leave will be seen as "swirl marks" and will show up at any angle. Move fore aft on horizontal surfaces and up down on vertical surfaces. This way, any visible scratches you leave will only show up at one angle to the ambient light. Apply Zaino products very thinly. It works better this way. You can always go back and add another coat as all Zaino products are compatible and can be applied on top of whatever Zaino product is already there.
The way I apply Zaino and they tell you to is:
1. Wash with mild dish detergent (they mention "Dawn") to remove all previous wax/coatings. This is not recommended for frequent application (dish detergent), but once every year or two shouldn't hurt anything.
2. Once every few years (or more often if you park outside), use the "clay bar" to remove "bonded contaminants". Your new vehicle may not need this step yet, but you can test by gently running your hand over the cleaned finish. If you feel rough "things" on the paint use the clay bar to remove them. It should be "glass smooth". Use the Zaino car wash soap (Z7) mixed as per instructions as a lubricant. I put it in a spray bottle and apply and then immediatly use the clay bar. Rinse the vehicle off and dry using a cotton bath towel (they recommend "Canon" brand to ensure it is cotton). The towel is used because it increases the area of the drying cloth, thus reducing the chances any dirt picked up will scratch the finish. I like to shake it out from time to time as well to remove anything bad it picks up.
3. Apply the Z1 to the car.
4. You don't have to let the Z1 dry, you can apply Z2, Z3, or Z5 right over top of it. Put this stuff on as thinly as you can, even if you can't see it very well. Let it dry to a haze. Even in the sun is fine. You can leave it on as long as you like before wiping it off.
5. Use the CLEANED cotton bath towel to remove the Z2, Z3, or Z5. DO NOT press hard when doing so. It should come off very easilly.
6. You can now stop and admire the results, or use the Z6 to enhance the shine or prepare the surface for a second coat. Use a cotton towel again, spray on the Z6 and wipe off immediatly - don't let it dry. Operate in small areas at a time.
Enjoy the results!
I measured 3.75 quarts drained from the ATF pan using the drain plug. I ended up refilling with 4.0 quarts. I use mobil 1 Synthetic. Note that this is not a complete system flush but a simple drain and fill. The whole transmission has a 9.75 quart capacity.
Just an FYI.
http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalNispthfndr03StrR.htm.htm
DO remove the filler plug BEFORE you remove the drain plug. Just in case you can't get the filler plug out after you drain it. I had to use a 1/2" flex bar to get the plugs out, and even with that, it was all I could do to break them free! Nissan didn't want them to "seep" oil! Even so, the rear fill plug seeped some.
The rear diff. (limited slip) may have had moly in it, or perhaps it was just very dirty oil. The front diff. oil was pretty clean. The filler plug is in an entertaining position, but a 1/2" drive ratchet worked fine on my vehicle to remove it. Good thing I didn't need the flex bar - which I needed on all three of the other plugs.
Be sure to clean the iron filings off the drain plug magnets.
The limited slip requires the special limited slip oil additive, or just use the Royal Purple, which isn't supposed to need the additive.
An altogether unpleasant job, done, thankyou, for another 50,000 km!
I am pretty new to this forum. I am planning to buy 01 pathfinder, which is having 90K miles on it. Interior looks pretty clean and leather seats. Its an SE model. So my question is, is it a good deal to buy 01 pathfinder with 90K miles on it ? If yes what is the price range I can bargain for. [I checked in Edmunds.com TMV, its about $9K]. Its a private party. what all the problems I may hit down the line ?, I brought a 96 Accord in 2001 with 90K miles on it, it still runs like a champ, I almost put 150K miles on it.
Can I expect the same thing from Nissan pathfinder ?
Thanks in advance
I am pretty new to this forum. I am planning to buy 01 pathfinder, which is having 90K miles on it. Interior looks pretty clean and leather seats. Its an SE model. So my question is, is it a good deal to buy 01 pathfinder with 90K miles on it ? If yes what is the price range I can bargain for. [I checked in Edmunds.com TMV, its about $9K]. Its a private party. what all the problems I may hit down the line ?, I brought a 96 Accord in 2001 with 90K miles on it, it still runs like a champ, I almost put 150K miles on it.
Can I expect the same thing from Nissan pathfinder ?
Thanks in advance
The vehicle had thread sealer on it, new. I didn't bother to replace it. Seapage doen't bother me. So far it's dry.
The Royal Purple does seem to work fine with the limited slip diff. No binding or noise of any kind.
Any one know if its a fuse problem or if there is a bulb that can be replaced in the AC control unit it self? The unit works fine- and it's certainly not worth buying a new AC unit from Nissan at their prices. Anyone else have the light up lights on their AC not work anymore? If in case I can't figure out what caused this, I think I may have found a replacement AC controller that I'll could purchase. Still, if I just got to remove a bulb and have it replaced that's much simpler and cheaper on the wallet.
Thanks for your time.
I just bought a 2000 pathfinder within the past year (and im so glad i did!!) but, I keep hearing clicking noises. I know I know, those silly CV joints right?? well thats what i thought, had it checked out by the dealership and they came away scratching their heads. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced random clicking noises or if im just hearing things.
Also, Im due up for my 60k mile check up. I live in denver and dont have tons of money so i was wondering if anyone in the denver CO, area might know of a good cheap place to take my car.
Thanks in advance,
Ninja1
The left side drain plug is in a "hole" in the left front of the engine, down about 1'. The right side plug I have never found - it may be behind the engine mount bracketry. The only drawing that shows them (that I have found) is in the owners manual. It's pretty vague. Be aware that if you remove the left side plug, you will need a method of "sticking" it in the socket to get it back in, as the "hole" it's in is pretty deep and narrow. I used a small super powerful magnet when I last did mine. Some kind of putty may also work.