The instructions said it'd take 30 minutes, but it took me about 2 hours all in all. I got mine from my local dealer. $177 is a great deal - I paid over $200 for mine, without the temp guage!
I also found the factory mud flaps inadequate. Too much sand and slop accumulating. All I did was go to the local department store and buy some cheap (9.00) flaps and installed them inside the factory models. That is , remove the four screws attaching the stock models, line up the holes and drill the new flaps. Place the stock models back, put the new ones "over top" and reinsert the screws. Holes are all there so it is a 20 minute job.The new flaps extend down agout 5" and it makes all the difference while maintaining a stock appearance.
Have you had any trouble with snow/ice building up in the wheel well and then tearing off the mud flap when you reversed? (This has happened to me with a full-size van - I even bought the stainless steel ones and it still bent them up. It usually happened in the morning after the slush had frozen around the wheel over night.)
I installed the flaps two weeks ago and it has snowed three times with no problems so far. The flaps are reasonably flexible and I think this reduces buildup. The best part is, at $9.00 a pair , I won't lose much sleep if/when they do go!
I have contemplated the buy and cut-to-fit option but wanted to see if there were some aftermarket ones already available. I was planning on using the holes that are already there but was wondering how to make them stay flush with the existing flaps. I was thinking about using RTV silicone as glue. It sounds like the ones that you found were stiff enough that this is not required.
Based on my observations it looks like the new flaps will need to extend about an inch to the outside and several inches down to provide good coverage. Is this about what you did? The several inches down part is probably what gave Toyota the original problem. If they are down far enough to work then they have to be flexible enough to bend out of the way on obstructions without ripping the whole flap assembly off the vehicle.
I applied plastic mud flaps ($3.99/pr) over the factory flaps. I went with a smaller version that extends only about 1/2" below the factory flaps. They will not protect the sides of the car like the larger flaps will but they look very nice and have resolved the mud / snow build-up.
The tension of the screws has held mine together. There is also a curve there and the inward bend of the flap also improves fit. These flaps are not wider, but are about 4-5" longer. The length was important as I was most concerned about stone damage along lower sides. Overall it looks o.k. and functions great!
I have a 2001 V6 2WD H/L 'non'-limited. This model does not have the JBL Sound system.
I couldn't stand the sound quality of this basic system anymore so this weekend, I had the 4 main speakers replaced with Pioneer TS-A1667 6.5" 3-Ways. I must report that this upgrade has improved the highs 100%. The tweeters in the front doors have minimal effect so the new speakers really made a difference. The lows, however, did not really improve....but what can one expect from 6.5" door speakers?
Some interesting details from the install (I watched the installer do the job). The door panel removal was pretty tricky....especially the removal of the plastic bezel surrounding the door lock/latch. Then, the factory speakers were interesting, also made by Pioneer....they were molded into the bezel/spacers which mounted on top of the metal door panels. (Fronts were bigger than the rears) So the factory 'spacers' were not usable with the new speakers. Since there was very little space behind the metal door panels and the window, the installer had to fabricate spacers to raise the speakers away from the windows. I'm sure custom spacers are available out there, but time was of the essence here.
There are probably 2+ inches between the plastic door panel and the metal door frame so I suppose some larger speakers may fit but some degree of customization is necessary. But I think to fully round out the system, (without replacing the factory head unit), would be to add a 100 Watt 4 channel amp and a subwoofer. (not sure where to put a sub...a Bazooka takes up too much space and anything else would cost an arm and a leg to custom install into some kick panel or storage panel in the rear cargo area.)
But the biggest obstacle of all is to convice the wife of the necessity of this more complete upgrade. Any ideas?
My wife drives a 2003 base v6 HL. I will be installing a pair of Infinity kappa components in the front and Infinity kappa coax at the rear doors. These will be powered by a JL Audio 4 channel amp rated at 75x4. I initially wanted to put in 2 10 inch subs but my wife(who owns the car) does not want to lose any trunk space. So, I have 2 Kicker subs sitting in my house.
My own car is using a pair of a/d/s components in the front doors and a pair of 10 inch a/d/s subwoofers. These are powered by a 4 channel Rockford fosgate(100x4) and a mono(250) Rockford fosgate amps.
I am looking for help concerning the design of the 2003 Highlander headrests that are so big that they push my head forward so far that it is very uncomfortable after about 20 miles. I have seen other Highlander owners who have removed the headrest and a neighbor is also having issues with the design. Both the dealer and Toyota are not interested in having problems. I need help because I cannot drive this vehicle without being in severe pain.
One thing that a couple of customers of mine have done with the headrests on Highlanders and RAV-4's which both have the "whiplash protection system" headrests was to remove them, and put them back in backwards. One thing to keep in mind though if you do this is that they do not stay in any position other than their lowest position, so only do this if it is still safe.
Also, note that the Highlander headrests have a swivel feature that allows them to be tilted forward -- verify that yours are tilted all the way back. Adjusting the angle of the seat backrest may help as well.
I had the same problem -- wanted to improve the bass performance after I upgraded my door speakers. I too didn't want to put a subwoofer in the cargo compartment as my philosophy is that this space should be available for hauling stuff and not housing the sound system. I had pretty much the entire interior of the cargo compartment taken apart for an unrelated reason and thus am aware of what's behind the cosmetic plastic panels, and can tell you there there really isn't enough space for subwoofers anywhere back there. I thought about putting subwoofers under the floor of the cargo compartment on either side of the spare tire, but didn't like the idea of having grill cloth or holes on the floor of the cargo compartment where debris from hauling stuff can settle. Also this would cause the the sound to be muffled when stuff is hauled that covers the subwoofers. I thought about putting a Kenwood KSC-WA62RC, the smallest powered subwoofer system I'm aware of (only 15" x 8" x 4.5") under the rear seat, but realized this wouldn't work after I noticed that the bottom of the rear seats move downward when the rear seats are folded down to extend the cargo area. Placing this subwoofer under the front passenger seat would be an option except for me as this is where my aftermarket amplifier is located. (The front driver's seat is not an option if you have the powered driver's seat due to space limitations.) For the fun of it I've thought of designing a equalization filter to compensate for the weak bass response of the existing speakers (Has anyone tried this? Is it possible to coerce 6-1/2" speakers to deliver strong bass?). If this doesn't pan out, I may install a pair of Kenwood KSC-WA62RC's, or possibly an Infinity Basslink (the second-smallest powered subwoofer system I'm aware of) in the cargo compartment, vertically oriented in the alcoves behind the wheel wells, where they will have minimal impact on cargo space.
I appreciate Landdriver and Toyotaken's responses, however, turning the headrest around is not a good solution since it cannot be secured to the seat when turned around, nor is there a swivel feature on the headrest. I have a neighbor who is also experiencing the same problem and has not had any success with either the dealer or Toyota in resolving the issue. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
If anyone reads this message that has, or know of anyone who has, problems with the Highlander headrests, please contact Toyota and the dealer and make a formal complaint. I am told I am the only person who has complained about the headrests, however I have seen at least 2 vehicles without headrests, which indicates to me that there is definitely a design problem. I have tried all of the suggestions and many more without success, so am now planning on selling the vehicle. I have tried 3 times before to purchase a Toyota without success, and it looks like I will not purchase another one because of the lack of response by the dealer and Toyota to this issue. Know anyone who would like a new Highlander?
Thank everyone who responded to my problem. For further information, I am female, 5'7" tall with a life long back problem. As a result I sit very effect to keep my back aligned. This causes the head rest to be a big pain in the neck for me. I am trying all of the suggestions - hopefully something will work. In the meantime, I learned that when I purchase another vehicle if the dealer will not let me take it for the weekend then I will go on to another vehicle. None of the Toyota dealers would allow me to take more than a 5 mile test drive.
My wife hates the headrests in my 02 highlander also!!! I tried bending the supports during our 1800 mile trip because the headrest pushed her head forward... but here's what I figured out. Now, I'll preface this by saying this is a short term solution to a long term problem, and try this at your own risk, but here goes... Slide the stupid headrest out by its two rails... now rotate the headrest 180 degrees and reinsert it into the holes... The headrest won't lock into place, but my wife has foung this solution of great relief. A more permanent solution would be to remove the headrest and find someone with a metal shop who has a large enough vise - clamping area- so that you could bend both headrest rails at the same time and experiment with a more comfortable angle. Who in their right mind would design such stupid things??? GOOD LUCK AND let this board know how it works out. Thanks, Ken
Indirectly, the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety.
Why not write them a letter to ask them if they have come to a conclusion as to why injuries increased in Toyotas using the improved seat/head restraint design.
Kenkneeb, thank you thank you thank you for telling my that your wife also found these headrests very uncomfortable. Please please call your dealer and Toyota's customer service line and let them know that this is a problem. They told me I am the only person who has this problem, but I am finding there are others out there with the same complaint, but they have not let their dealer and Toyota know of the problem.
I have been trying to find a place that would bend the headrest or take it apart and reupholster it with much less padding. So far without success. I have tried custom shops, machine shops, etc. I have even tried to find another headrest from another Toyota at a junk yard to see it it would work.
Also,I tried a Limited leather seat today and found the headrest in it to be very good. I am not sure what the difference is in the seat design that would be different from the cloth seat, but the headrest tilts which is great. Good luck with your problem.
Scanner I have been trying to find a shop that would modify the headrest in some manner. So far none of them will touch the headrest. I did find that the Limited leather seat headrest is ok - that is of course if the cloth and leather seats are the same. Will try one shortly and see. I am going to the dealer on Tuesday for the new owners meeting and will ask people there if they also have the problem and if so what did they do. While there I will try the Limited headrest in my Highlander.
I completely revamped the audio system on my HL limited. This included Pioneer DEX-1, 4 Polk 6 1/2 speakers , 1 12" JBL Sub, M357 Apline V12 Amp, 12 disc changer.
Lessons Learned: Was going to keep my headunit since I liked the looks and the 6 CD changer - but my amp only included Pre-amp inputs So hence the Pioneer.
Thanks to all inputs on speaker door install. Was a breeze after figured out how to take door panel off.
CD Changer is under driver seat, Amp is under back seat ( However it is to big that the rear seat does not fold down all the way)
The sub makes all the difference in the world ! I have a quick disc kit and it is mounted in the back, The rear cover hides it well. Without the sub, the door speakers do not sound good, the door radiates as i turn up the volume and sounds terrible. It would be nice to hide the sub somewhere ? Let me know if you figure it out.
Good to hear you finally got that audio system upgraded! For me it was definitely no mean task -- Polk is an excellent name in speakers, and I have an Alpine V12 as well (MRV-F340); thanks for the feedback on your subwoofer experiences -- it pushes me a little closer to getting a sub (if I ever come up with a good idea of where to hide one, I'll let you know!).
One thing -- you mentioned you have a Limited with 6 CD changer, which indicates that you had the factory "premium" JBL sound system. Just to let you know the head unit DOES have preamp-level outputs, which are subsequently amplified to speaker-level outputs via an external amplifier that is in the rear of the vehicle (under the carpet behind the rear seat). But sounds like you have one super system. You know, we should have a Highlander convention sometime so we can compare how each-other's sound systems sound...
Been reading all the complaints about comfort and it is high time someone comes out in support of the Highlander. I am 6'2" tall, 190 lbs and drive with the seat back at about 10% recline. The seat is a little over half way back and I have not experienced any comfort problems. The only car, in my memory, that was more comfortable was our old 1973 Volvo 142. Even my wife, who is 5'4", under 100 lbs does not have any problems with comfort in the Highlander. It is my feeling that these people got the car home and for some reason, maybe the spouse did not like it, are now looking for any reason to tear it down.
junebug, it seems that the very tall and the 5'4 and under do not have problems with the seats/headrests, but those in between do. I am glad you and your wife find the vehicle to your liking and that neither of you had upper and lower back problems that this vehicle does not suit. I appreciate your comments.
i'm 5'10" and my wife is 5'2". Neither one of us have problems with the headrests. We've had the vehicle for about 2 years now. We only decline the seat a couple of notches, and have discovered the lumber support very comfortable also. I have found that the headrest is positioned perfectly so as to minimize injury in the event of an accident. Much better than some of the other vehicles out there. I find that I usually have atleast 2" of clearance behind my head, and on those long drives...I just stretch out and rest my head back.....
Anybody know where the cargo net attaches in the cargo area of the Highlander? I find them to be invaluable, intend to buy one, but don't see where it woulk attach in the upper area.
The top hooks onto the the upper grocery bag hooks. The lower hooks onto the tie down hooks at rear of cargo area. Make sure you purchase the proper net. The bottom hooks are snap type hooks that work with the tie down hooks.
I just replaced the OEM headlight bulbs of my wife's 03 HL with PIAA xtreme white plus bulbs(9005 & 9006). They make a whole lot of difference. If you think the OEM headlight is good, I don't know what you'll think about these bulbs. They are almost as bright as the real xenons I have in my BMW.
I also replaced all door speakers with Infinity kappas, 62.5 for the front and 60.5 for the rear. All speakers are being powered by a JL Audio 300/4 amp rated at 75 watts @ 4 channels. I also have a pair of Kicker Comp vr subs I wanted to install but my wife does not want to lose any trunk space. These changes also are a nice enhancement over the OEM speakers.
awchan13 I do not know how you can say that "on those long drives...I just stretch out and rest my head back....." If your posture is good the headrest pushes your head forward, so there is no resting your head back! Maybe all I need is to have very poor posture for the headrests to work for me. Unfortunately, after being in a back brace for years I sit very straight, with my head straight, not forward. Also, do you have leather seats or cloth? Apparently the issue is with cloth seats.
Sorry, but my posture is probably better than yours. Sounds like you may be suffering from a decrease in your cervical spine curvature, also known as military neck, among other problems. A back brace unfortunately can't guarantee that your back is perfectly aligned. It may help you get through whatever condition you were experiencing at the time..ie straightening a scoiliotic curve, releasing pressure on a herniated disc, fractured vertebrae etc...But it sounds like you have adopted a posture that provides you with the least amount of discomfort. And that posture does not imply a perfect posture. I don't sit with my head in the forward leaning position that you have accused me of. I sit very comfortably. I do not have a military posture, and my spinal curves are well within the norm. I'm sure the seats are designed for the average body frame. Those that do not fit within this average may have a problem. Please do not assume that because You are sitting completely "erect" that this is a correct errect posture. For the average person, it is not... If all of us had spines without curves, we would all be experiencing the same problems you are. Luckily, mother nature dealt us a pretty decent hand and remembered we needed our "shock absorbers" (spinal curvatures) when we assumed a biped way of life. I would mention to the dealership that you have a medical history that includes previous or current back/spinal problems that make the seat uncomfortable for you. The way that the seat fits you is not comfortable, and you would like to know if they would be willing to work with you to arrive at a competant solution. It probably wouldn't be wise to attack them by accusing them of designing a poor seat - you may not get anywhere with that strategy.
P.S. - I have a limited highlander with cloth seats. So apparently this issue involves my seats as well.
Very easy to install. Rotate old plug and remove and then re-install new bulb. Just don't touch the glass on bulb. I' ve had them on my RAV4 for 3 years and on my Highlander for 6 months. Not xenons - but close as I could come with a simple 5 minute installation.
The Infinity's with the Jl amp sound much better than the OEM speakers. Much cleaner sound. The bass is still lacking and I will be installing 1 sub(though I have 2 subs new in the box)plus another JL amp to power it up. I will be just going with 1 sub instead of 2 to preserve my trunk space.
awchan13I guess I was alittle harsh concerning posture, but many people I know think their posture is excellent when infact is very poor. According to my doctors my posture is excellent, particuly for my age and the arthritis that I have. I have tried to get the dealership to work with me, and they knew up front that I had a history of back problems and have a disabled mother that this vehicle had to accomodate. They are not willing to work with me at all. In fact, I wrote a letter asking for their help in resolving this problem and hand delivered it 2 weeks ago. To date I have not heard from them in response to the letter, nor have they returned any of my calls. They saw that this is a definite issue for me, but have decided to ignor my pleas for help. Right now I am just plain angry at both the dealership and Toyota! Their attitude is - it's your car, tough. If I only been allowed to take the vehicle home overnight I would have known that this vehicle would not work for me - although it had everything else going for it. This is my only transportation, so trying to get something done, either with this one or by purchasing another vehicle is of prime importance(I have to rely on others to get to and from work, shopping, etc.) . After trying all the suggestions and everything else I can think of I am not getting any closer to being able to get this painful problem taken care of. I went car shopping this weekend and it looks like I will take at hit of about $7000 and end up with a used vehicle. Somehow it does not seem right.
I am sorry to hear you are still having a problem w/ headrests. I thought I remembered you had tried the Limited Leather(adjustable) headrests and they reduced or eliminated the headrest issue. If this is the case I think you would come out further ahead financially if you obtained those headrests(less than $1k retail for 2 hrests) rather than losing $7k on trade-in/sales of newly used vehicle.
If you watch on eBay there are people selling HLer interiors due to vehicles being totalled, etc.
From what I understand from previous posts here, the main problems are the speakers. Replacing the stereo "head" unit may not be easy because the better unit connects to an external amplifier at the back of the vehicle, and I don't think the standard unit uses an external amplifer.
Others here have used Infinity speakers. I have used Infinity speakers before and for my taste (accurate sound), they are some of the best. I plan on putting them into my new Highlander when it gets warm enough outside (above around 65 degrees to minimize cracking plastic parts when I pull off the door panels).
I definitely wouldn't recommend upgrading to the JBL system as although it may sound better than the standard system, it doesn't really sound all that great, as several in addition to me have commented in this discussion in the past. It will be cheaper and you will almost certainly end up with a better sounding system if you go with an aftermarket system.
(For the heck of it, about six months back, I asked the dealership how much a replacement speaker for the front would cost -- around $150 for a SINGLE speaker (not a pair) that has a paper surround.)
I have a 2003 Highlander and want to purchase accessories for it (ie. Sunroof Wind Deflector, Hood Bug Deflector, etc.). Where does everyone go to purchase these items and the like?
There are several places that sell aftermarket Highlander parts: just do a search on "toyota highlander accessories" and many come up. I've used the following websites:
Romania Toyota Auto wholesale parts Yahoo Auto Fashion WAAG.com Performance Parts Mats.com
No problems with any. The best thing about online buying is that its easy to shop around for the best deals.
You can also try truckperformance.com. BTW, Brad you should check out the rear anti-sway bar from Addco specifically for the Highlander. I think this just came out. I'm contemplating on getting one, but wonder if it will be an easy bolt-on procedure.
I have a 2003 non-limited HL. I love it so far. The fog light question has nagged me too, from day one. I have looked at the fog lights on the Jeep Liberty. They seem to be the same size. Has anyone looked at this option ? I am considering the stock Limited lights, but if I can find something cheaper, that still looks great, I'll consider it a victory.
Comments
I have contemplated the buy and cut-to-fit option but wanted to see if there were some aftermarket ones already available. I was planning on using the holes that are already there but was wondering how to make them stay flush with the existing flaps. I was thinking about using RTV silicone as glue. It sounds like the ones that you found were stiff enough that this is not required.
Based on my observations it looks like the new flaps will need to extend about an inch to the outside and several inches down to provide good coverage. Is this about what you did? The several inches down part is probably what gave Toyota the original problem. If they are down far enough to work then they have to be flexible enough to bend out of the way on obstructions without ripping the whole flap assembly off the vehicle.
Thanks for everyone's input!
Overall it looks o.k. and functions great!
I couldn't stand the sound quality of this basic system anymore so this weekend, I had the 4 main speakers replaced with Pioneer TS-A1667 6.5" 3-Ways. I must report that this upgrade has improved the highs 100%. The tweeters in the front doors have minimal effect so the new speakers really made a difference. The lows, however, did not really improve....but what can one expect from 6.5" door speakers?
Some interesting details from the install (I watched the installer do the job). The door panel removal was pretty tricky....especially the removal of the plastic bezel surrounding the door lock/latch. Then, the factory speakers were interesting, also made by Pioneer....they were molded into the bezel/spacers which mounted on top of the metal door panels. (Fronts were bigger than the rears) So the factory 'spacers' were not usable with the new speakers. Since there was very little space behind the metal door panels and the window, the installer had to fabricate spacers to raise the speakers away from the windows. I'm sure custom spacers are available out there, but time was of the essence here.
There are probably 2+ inches between the plastic door panel and the metal door frame so I suppose some larger speakers may fit but some degree of customization is necessary. But I think to fully round out the system, (without replacing the factory head unit), would be to add a 100 Watt 4 channel amp and a subwoofer. (not sure where to put a sub...a Bazooka takes up too much space and anything else would cost an arm and a leg to custom install into some kick panel or storage panel in the rear cargo area.)
But the biggest obstacle of all is to convice the wife of the necessity of this more complete upgrade. Any ideas?
My own car is using a pair of a/d/s components in the front doors and a pair of 10 inch a/d/s subwoofers. These are powered by a 4 channel Rockford fosgate(100x4) and a mono(250) Rockford fosgate amps.
Hope this helps.
Ken
Where are you located? You should have no trouble finding a buyer for your vehicle.
Slide the stupid headrest out by its two rails... now rotate the headrest 180 degrees and reinsert it into the holes... The headrest won't lock into place, but my wife has foung this solution of great relief. A more permanent solution would be to remove the headrest and find someone with a metal shop who has a large enough vise - clamping area- so that you could bend both headrest rails at the same time and experiment with a more comfortable angle.
Who in their right mind would design such stupid things??? GOOD LUCK AND let this board know how it works out. Thanks, Ken
Why not write them a letter to ask them if they have come to a conclusion as to why injuries increased in Toyotas using the improved seat/head restraint design.
http://www.roadandtravel.com/safetyandsecurity/ts_headrestraints.- html
http://www.iihs.org/news_releases/2002/pr102202.htm
Perhaps your local AAA or a company skilled in modifying vehicles for persons with disabilities can offer some advice.
I have been trying to find a place that would bend the headrest or take it apart and reupholster it with much less padding. So far without success. I have tried custom shops, machine shops, etc. I have even tried to find another headrest from another Toyota at a junk yard to see it it would work.
Also,I tried a Limited leather seat today and found the headrest in it to be very good. I am not sure what the difference is in the seat design that would be different from the cloth seat, but the headrest tilts which is great. Good luck with your problem.
I completely revamped the audio system on my HL limited. This included Pioneer DEX-1, 4 Polk 6 1/2 speakers , 1 12" JBL Sub, M357 Apline V12 Amp, 12 disc changer.
Lessons Learned:
Was going to keep my headunit since I liked the looks and the 6 CD changer - but my amp only included Pre-amp inputs So hence the Pioneer.
Thanks to all inputs on speaker door install. Was a breeze after figured out how to take door panel off.
CD Changer is under driver seat, Amp is under back seat ( However it is to big that the rear seat does not fold down all the way)
The sub makes all the difference in the world ! I have a quick disc kit and it is mounted in the back, The rear cover hides it well. Without the sub, the door speakers do not sound good, the door radiates as i turn up the volume and sounds terrible. It would be nice to hide the sub somewhere ? Let me know if you figure it out.
Good to hear you finally got that audio system upgraded! For me it was definitely no mean task -- Polk is an excellent name in speakers, and I have an Alpine V12 as well (MRV-F340); thanks for the feedback on your subwoofer experiences -- it pushes me a little closer to getting a sub (if I ever come up with a good idea of where to hide one, I'll let you know!).
One thing -- you mentioned you have a Limited with 6 CD changer, which indicates that you had the factory "premium" JBL sound system. Just to let you know the head unit DOES have preamp-level outputs, which are subsequently amplified to speaker-level outputs via an external amplifier that is in the rear of the vehicle (under the carpet behind the rear seat). But sounds like you have one super system. You know, we should have a Highlander convention sometime so we can compare how each-other's sound systems sound...
It is my feeling that these people got the car home and for some reason, maybe the spouse did not like it, are now looking for any reason to tear it down.
I also replaced all door speakers with Infinity kappas, 62.5 for the front and 60.5 for the rear. All speakers are being powered by a JL Audio 300/4 amp rated at 75 watts @ 4 channels. I also have a pair of Kicker Comp vr subs I wanted to install but my wife does not want to lose any trunk space. These changes also are a nice enhancement over the OEM speakers.
I would mention to the dealership that you have a medical history that includes previous or current back/spinal problems that make the seat uncomfortable for you. The way that the seat fits you is not comfortable, and you would like to know if they would be willing to work with you to arrive at a competant solution. It probably wouldn't be wise to attack them by accusing them of designing a poor seat - you may not get anywhere with that strategy.
P.S. - I have a limited highlander with cloth seats. So apparently this issue involves my seats as well.
If you watch on eBay there are people selling HLer interiors due to vehicles being totalled, etc.
Others here have used Infinity speakers. I have used Infinity speakers before and for my taste (accurate sound), they are some of the best. I plan on putting them into my new Highlander when it gets warm enough outside (above around 65 degrees to minimize cracking plastic parts when I pull off the door panels).
(For the heck of it, about six months back, I asked the dealership how much a replacement speaker for the front would cost -- around $150 for a SINGLE speaker (not a pair) that has a paper surround.)
Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim
Romania Toyota
Auto wholesale parts
Yahoo Auto Fashion
WAAG.com
Performance Parts
Mats.com
No problems with any. The best thing about online buying is that its easy to shop around for the best deals.