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Pat
The undercoating did not make much of a difference regarding road noise [except at highway speeds] but the new tires did. I bought Michelin Cross Terrains last week and the difference in snow/wet traction is unbelievable.
By the way, I'm using Cooper studded snows, and they HOWL at 40 to 50 mph. Tread problem, not studs. Gonna take them back.
I'm a newbie but have people that are experienced in doing my system. I was wondering, if I wanted to get an amp for the system but use the stock headset, what could I do since I know that there are no RCA jacks on the back of the headset. I heard a few of you people spliced a wire, but is it necessary to do that? Any recommendations?
1.(part # 08921-48860 - converter box)
2.(part # 08942-48870-BB - 4-pin wiring harness)
The wiring installation is not as piece of cake although instructions are supplied with the parts.
You can purchase a hitch (Hidden Hitch or Draw-Tite) over the internet for about $140 delivered to your home. The hitch installation takes about 10 minutes.
It’s my opinion that Toyota is trying to scam more money if people purchases non-Toyota hitches by requiring these additional parts.
I have the 2001 HL Limited(With JBL System).
Well, I was thinking about what how you installed your amplifier. I was wondering, what happened to the stock amplifier? Did you jstu leave it there or did u take it out? I am thinking of replacing the stock amp and using that harness, but I'm going to have trouble with the wiring since I won't know which wire is which. I was wondering, the harness that is plugged into the amp, does it have the wires that goes to all 4 speakers? I recently picked up the adapter to convert line level to RCA so I was planning to re-wire the harness to use for the new amplifier. I am hoping to find an amp small enough to replace the factory amp, but from what I've heard on this forum, the stock amp is pretty small and no manufacturers make an amp that small. Is there any other suggestions you have? Thx
I removed the factory amp.
We're pretty much thinking along the same lines -- by far the most convenient thing is to locate the new amp in the same location as the factory amp (behind the carpet behind the rear seat), as the factory amp has the line-level signals going into it and the speaker-level lines going out to all four speakers, the idea being simply swapping the factory amp with the new amp (of course the molex-style connectors going to the factory amp won't connect to the new amp, and ideally the adapter you got will plug into this connector to brake-out the line-level signals to RCA connectors that will plug into the new amp). Alas, as you noted and as I discovered, the area occupied by the factory amp is too small for most aftermarket amps, unless if you can find some long narrow amps.
Alternatively, after you get the new amplifier you might experiment to see if you can locate it close to the area where the factory amp is, perhaps behind the seat but in front of the carpet. If you could fit the new amp under the rear seat this would work, but there is very little room under there when the rear seat is folded down (I'll wager most HL owners never noticed that the base of the rear seat moves down slightly as the seat back is folded down). Or, depending on you're tastes as far as the amp being visible, it could be mounted in the cargo area somewhere (I looked around the area under the cargo area (where the spare tire is), but didn't remember seeing any spots where I thought I could put the amp).
Otherwise, if I had to do it all again I probably would do it the same way as I did before: locate the amp under the front passenger seat and tap into the harness under the scuff plate in the front passenger door opening; its a little cumbersome getting at it. This requires familiarity with a soldering pencil or crimp tool, and patience splicing into wires in the middle of a harness. The line-level signals consist of five wires (the four channels and a common) and a shield -- I used shielded cable in running the lines to the amp to maintain the shield to guard against magnetic interference even though it was maybe only a couple of feet of cable run. Three of the four speaker lines are present in the harness and thus connecting to these is straight-forward (FL, FR & RR if I remember correctly). For the RL what I did, after removing the factory amp, was, at the factory amp location, connect the RL and FR lines together. Then, where I spliced into the harness at the front passenger door, I severed the FR speaker line. The severed end heading toward the front of the car was connected to the amplifier FR speaker output, and the severed end heading toward the rear of the car was connected to the amplifier RL speaker output. Other options include, instead of tapping into the harness in the passenger door opening, to run the preamp lines directly from the head unit to the amp (via under the carpet), and run new speaker wires directly to each speaker, but when is all said and done it would probably be easier to tap into the harness.
One caveat. Gaining access to the factory amp is a bit of a pain. After removing the rear seats, to lift the carpet to expose the amp I ended up removing practically all of the interior body panels in the cargo area. You can cheat by cutting a hole in the carpet; the amp is located toward the right maybe a foot or so from the right interior wall.
As if this isn't long enough will post pin-outs for the signal lines in a couple of days or so.
Good luck!
Wire Color Description
blue/yellow +12V *
white/black GND
green/yellow Remote
shielded black Line-level FL
shielded white Line-level FR
shielded red Line-level RL
shielded green Line-level RR
shielded yellow Line-level common/return
pink Speaker-level FL+
violet Speaker-level FL-
green Speaker-level FR+
blue Speaker-level FR-
black Speaker-level RL+ **
yellow Speaker-level RL- **
red Speaker-level RR+
white Speaker-level RR-
Connectors on the power amp behind the back seat:
Connector/Pin Description
B/7 +12V *
B/12 GND
A/1 Remote
A/5 Line-level FL
A/6 Line-level FR
A/13 Line-level RL
A/14 Line-level RR
A/11 Line-level common/return
B/2 Speaker-level FL+
B/9 Speaker-level FL-
B/1 Speaker-level FR+
B/8 Speaker-level FR-
B/4 Speaker-level RL+
B/11 Speaker-level RL-
B/3 Speaker-level RR+
B/10 Speaker-level RR-
* Goes to "25A RADIO NO. 1" fuse in fuse block in engine compartment.
** As mentioned in post 629 to my recollection these lines are actually not present in the harness but are included here for completeness.
Also just realized, and not mentioned in post 629, that I must have tapped into the area of the harness just rearward of the A pillar in order to have access to the RR speaker lines coming from the power amp.
I wanted to change the fog light bulb on the car and on the sylvania site it said it took a H3 bulb but when i took the bulb out from the fog light housing, it said it was a H3D(which looks like an H3 but with H7 plug). Did anyone find a replacement bulb?
I have the receipt and window sticker for the 2004 Highlander tow prep package, and the brochure clearly states that "trailer prewiring" is included. But, it's not there. Both the dealership and toyota.com are giving me the runaround. By the way I owned a 2001 Highlander and installer the hitch myself, there is no plastic box on the 2004, the spare is there.
We apologize for the confusion surrounding the towing converter, transmission cooler, and wiring harness on your 2004 Highlander.
We would like the opportunity to further review your concerns.
Please provide us with a copy of your receipts and Monroney Label (window sticker). You may either fax the documentation to 310-381-7813, or you can mail them to:
Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.
19001 South Western Avenue. Department WC11
Torrance, CA 90509
We will be in touch with you shortly thereafter.
Thank you for contacting Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.
We appreciate the opportunity to address your inquiry.
According to our records, you contacted us by telephone on April 9, 2004 regarding your Highlander. At that time we advised that you should look for a male jack connector with orange, brown, light blue wires. In addition we referred you to your local Toyota dealership for further assistance if the male connector cannot be found.
Your email has been documented at our National Headquarters under file #200404020415. If we can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us.
We appreciate the opportunity to address your inquiry and apologize that our website did not offer additional information on pre-wiring.
Trailer pre-wiring enables the optional towing electronics to plug into the vehicle. The optional towing electronics would include, for example, the converter and wiring harness.
It has been our pleasure to assist you with the information you requested.
Your email has been documented at our National Headquarters under file #200404121335. If we can be of further assistance, please feel free contact us via contact us. or by calling 800-331-4331. We are available from 6 AM to 6 PM, Pacific Standard Time, Monday through Friday.
Thank you for contacting Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.
We appreciate the opportunity to address your inquiry.
The pre-wiring for the tow package on the 2004 Highlander is located internally within the body of the vehicle. In order for the pre-wire to be utilized, the wiring harness and converter would need to be installed.
Your email has been documented at our National Headquarters under file #200404121335. If we can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us.
Thank you for updating Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.
We apologize that our previous response did not directly answer your inquiry.
According to our research, the 2004 Highlander with the Towing Prep Package option (as yours has) does not include the converter box found in previous model year Highlanders.
If you were to purchase the Toyota towing hitch, which is supplied with a wiring connector, you would still need to purchase the converter box separately.
We apologize if this has caused you any confusion or inconvenience.
Please discuss your towing needs with the Customer Relations Manager at Northway Motor Car for possible options or alternatives.
Your file #200404140104 has been updated with this email at our National Headquarters. If we can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us.
Thank you for your patience and understanding.
I spoke with the customer relations people at Toyota and was told my concerns would be passed on to higher management but not to expect a reply.
I bought a Hidden Hitch unit at etrailer.com and paid my local mechanic $18 to install it. I had to buy the Toyota harness from my dealer for $38 plus tax. I installed it myself with no problems.
I'm curious if anyone has had success getting Toyota to pay for the harness. It seems to me this is a blatant case of false advertising since the brochure clearly states the prewiring is included in the trailer tow package.
I intend to persue this issue with Toyota so any and all responses would be appreciated.
Has anyone found a good hitch that doesn't have that bulky loop that goes around the muffler? Has anyone tired a 2003 model hitch does to see if it would fit (assuming no 3rd row seats)?
Installing the harness only takes 30 or so minutes and is straightforward.
I bought a Hidden Hitch hitch that I believe fits all model year Highlanders. It is bulky and somewhat unsightly.
The harness I bought from my local Toyota dealer did not have instructions included but the package was torn and I think they might have been removed by someone else. A prior post did state that instructions were included in the package.
Appreciate the quick reply.
Paul
The job can be done by one person, two makes it easier. I found that I had to tie the hatch half way open so as not to knick the spoiler during attachment (did it by my self). All in all, it should take about an hour - taking your time. Mine took three in that I had to figure out why my holes were not aligning then I had to slot my holes with a round file to get them to match up - what a pain. As for the cross thread - I expoxyed the bolt on place.
End result - it looks great ! Next job...flares !
I used these rubber bumpers on all 4 corners of the plate. I also used one in each upper corner the glove-box door to fix that little rattle too.
Phil
The maf sensor is located on top of the air filter housing. It is approximately l.5 x 1.5 inches, and is attached to a wiring connector. Carefully remove the connector, and the two screws holding the sensor. Lift the sensor straight up, being 'very' careful not to touch the housing [the sensors are very costly]. The sensor leads look like a large safety pin with a thermometer bulb on the end. You may see an oily contamination on the bulb, which can be removed by lightly spraying with the electronic parts cleaner. Do not touch the bulb or wires. The cleaner will self-dry almost immediately. Carefully reinstall.
The parts cleaner is available available at any electronics parts store. Radio Shack carries a quick dry cleaner made by CRC.
The K&N filters are great . . . just clean carefully, and re-oil 'lightly'. Good luck!
Sirfile
Thanks for your help.