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My salesman, whom is very honest, says that undercoating is pretty helpful in reducing road/tire noise. He doesn't sell it, but sent me to someone who does it. Do any of you have any experience with this?
Most people think that undercoating today's cars is a waste of money. I doubt it will make a big difference in road noise. If I were to spend money on a new Highlander, I would replace the tires with quieter and better tires. Those would serve you better in both the noise and handling areas.
I have an '03 HL V6 4WD with 7,000 miles on the clock that has both undercoating and new tires. The undercoating did not make much of a difference regarding road noise [except at highway speeds] but the new tires did. I bought Michelin Cross Terrains last week and the difference in snow/wet traction is unbelievable.
Hi pjaatpdx - I got the longer temperature sensor wire from the manufacturer. I then located the sensor behind the left front bumper. I ran the wire up and then along the metal railing that meets the hood when its closed. Used electrical tape and secured the wire so as not to contact hot or moving parts. I then passed the wire through the top of the fender at the base of the windshield (small but accessible opening) and into the driver's front door frame. I routed it down to the first piece of interior trim and then tucked behind the dash over to the console. you can then go behind the right hand console trim panel to the floor and come up into the open lower center console. I just have the sensor wire come up and the power wire come down from the plug. The compass is located on the ashtray cover. You may wish to try different sensor locations. I have found that it reads about right in winter but can be a few degrees high in summer (may be pavement heat reflection). Hope this helps.
Thanks for the tips on the undercoating, and especially to Kevin for the instructions on the compass. I appreciate your help getting this great car on the road!
By the way, I'm using Cooper studded snows, and they HOWL at 40 to 50 mph. Tread problem, not studs. Gonna take them back.
Just took dely of my new Highlander and love the performance. The only drawback (however minor) is that to use a Toyota cargo net, you must drill in to the sides of the cargo area to establish attachments, :>(. This is what the dealer is telling me. Not sure I want to perform a 'self-modify' on my new vehicle. Are there any other nets available, outside of Toyota's that I could use? Many thanks for any feedback.
I'm a newbie but have people that are experienced in doing my system. I was wondering, if I wanted to get an amp for the system but use the stock headset, what could I do since I know that there are no RCA jacks on the back of the headset. I heard a few of you people spliced a wire, but is it necessary to do that? Any recommendations?
FYI - When buying an ‘04 Toyota Highlander with the “Towing Prep Package” although trailer prewiring is listed as included it is not! Toyota sells the hitch for the ‘04 Toyota Highlander separately and your receive a converter box and the wiring harness with the hitch. I had to order these two parts separately and the cost is between $80-100 for the two parts. It’s a scam and I’ve already complained to Toyota and my local dealer to no avail. The Toyota part #’s needed are as follows:
1.(part # 08921-48860 - converter box)
2.(part # 08942-48870-BB - 4-pin wiring harness)
The wiring installation is not as piece of cake although instructions are supplied with the parts.
You can purchase a hitch (Hidden Hitch or Draw-Tite) over the internet for about $140 delivered to your home. The hitch installation takes about 10 minutes.
It’s my opinion that Toyota is trying to scam more money if people purchases non-Toyota hitches by requiring these additional parts.
While at a stereo installation shop a couple of years ago there was some mention of an "adapter" which I assumed to be a harness consisting of a connector and a corresponding receptacle to be inserted between the factory headunit and existing harness, and consisting of line and/or speaker-level break-outs, but a quick web search didn't turn up anything. The main issue is where the amp gets mounted. If you find the most convenient place to mount it is under the passenger seat for example (there probably is not enough room to mount it behind the dash close to the head unit), it might be easier to splice into the harness along the floorboard adjacent to the passenger seat rather than route a set of lines from the head unit to the amp (this was the method I used for adding an amp to my factory head unit, but I was able to get away with splicing into the harness adjacent to the passenger seat without running any other lines because I had the JBL system that, at least on Highlanders without the third-row seat ('01-'03), the factory amp was located behind the second-row seat (non-JBL systems do not have a separate factory amp, however), and thus line-level signals were present in this harness, as well as the speaker lines going to the speakers. Not to discourage anyone from running separate lines throughout the car, you just have to decide what system appeals to you. The electrical manual (separate from the $200 two-volume service manual set) is a great asset for determining which lines are which and where the existing harnesses are routed.
I want to get an aftermarket CD Changer for my 2004 Highlander. It has to work with the stock head unit. Has anyone done this? Do you recommend any particular brand and model of changer? Thanks in advance.
Regarding installing an amplifier or an add-on CD changer you guys will get far more help posting at a site specific to car audio. I suggest registering at the12volt.com and posting your question(s) there. Then you can come back here and share the information!
As anyone here had video monitors installed in the headrests? Where did you have the DVD player located? I'm going to have this done to my Highlander in a few weeks and any info will help.
Don't have the DVD screens on the headrests yet, but I've got an in-dash Alpine LCD screen. Right now I use it for navigation - the nav unit is located under the driver seat, the 6-disk changer under the passenger seat. Works well -- should accomodate a DVD player without any problems.
To landdriver: I have the 2001 HL Limited(With JBL System). Well, I was thinking about what how you installed your amplifier. I was wondering, what happened to the stock amplifier? Did you jstu leave it there or did u take it out? I am thinking of replacing the stock amp and using that harness, but I'm going to have trouble with the wiring since I won't know which wire is which. I was wondering, the harness that is plugged into the amp, does it have the wires that goes to all 4 speakers? I recently picked up the adapter to convert line level to RCA so I was planning to re-wire the harness to use for the new amplifier. I am hoping to find an amp small enough to replace the factory amp, but from what I've heard on this forum, the stock amp is pretty small and no manufacturers make an amp that small. Is there any other suggestions you have? Thx
We're pretty much thinking along the same lines -- by far the most convenient thing is to locate the new amp in the same location as the factory amp (behind the carpet behind the rear seat), as the factory amp has the line-level signals going into it and the speaker-level lines going out to all four speakers, the idea being simply swapping the factory amp with the new amp (of course the molex-style connectors going to the factory amp won't connect to the new amp, and ideally the adapter you got will plug into this connector to brake-out the line-level signals to RCA connectors that will plug into the new amp). Alas, as you noted and as I discovered, the area occupied by the factory amp is too small for most aftermarket amps, unless if you can find some long narrow amps.
Alternatively, after you get the new amplifier you might experiment to see if you can locate it close to the area where the factory amp is, perhaps behind the seat but in front of the carpet. If you could fit the new amp under the rear seat this would work, but there is very little room under there when the rear seat is folded down (I'll wager most HL owners never noticed that the base of the rear seat moves down slightly as the seat back is folded down). Or, depending on you're tastes as far as the amp being visible, it could be mounted in the cargo area somewhere (I looked around the area under the cargo area (where the spare tire is), but didn't remember seeing any spots where I thought I could put the amp).
Otherwise, if I had to do it all again I probably would do it the same way as I did before: locate the amp under the front passenger seat and tap into the harness under the scuff plate in the front passenger door opening; its a little cumbersome getting at it. This requires familiarity with a soldering pencil or crimp tool, and patience splicing into wires in the middle of a harness. The line-level signals consist of five wires (the four channels and a common) and a shield -- I used shielded cable in running the lines to the amp to maintain the shield to guard against magnetic interference even though it was maybe only a couple of feet of cable run. Three of the four speaker lines are present in the harness and thus connecting to these is straight-forward (FL, FR & RR if I remember correctly). For the RL what I did, after removing the factory amp, was, at the factory amp location, connect the RL and FR lines together. Then, where I spliced into the harness at the front passenger door, I severed the FR speaker line. The severed end heading toward the front of the car was connected to the amplifier FR speaker output, and the severed end heading toward the rear of the car was connected to the amplifier RL speaker output. Other options include, instead of tapping into the harness in the passenger door opening, to run the preamp lines directly from the head unit to the amp (via under the carpet), and run new speaker wires directly to each speaker, but when is all said and done it would probably be easier to tap into the harness.
One caveat. Gaining access to the factory amp is a bit of a pain. After removing the rear seats, to lift the carpet to expose the amp I ended up removing practically all of the interior body panels in the cargo area. You can cheat by cutting a hole in the carpet; the amp is located toward the right maybe a foot or so from the right interior wall.
As if this isn't long enough will post pin-outs for the signal lines in a couple of days or so.
I have a 2004 Toyota Highlander w/ a sunroof, and have been told by my dealer that the stock DVD player will not work. This is apparently due to a redesign of the head liner, which makes the roof mounted version too big. There is supposedly a new headrest mounted option available as of 02-04. Can anyone verify this or provide any further information?
Has anyone had their Highlander with the dark privacy glass tinted? I want to tint the front side windows (35% tint is legal here in Hawaii on all side windows and rear windshield) but was curious if there is a need or benefit to tint the already dark (darker than the tint) privacy glass. I wouldn't think so, but what do you think?
As continued from post 629 here's a list of the signals present in the harness under the scuff plate along the right side of the vehicle for an '01 with the JBL premium stereo (good chance is the same for '02/'03, but not for the non-JBL):
Wire Color Description
blue/yellow +12V * white/black GND green/yellow Remote shielded black Line-level FL shielded white Line-level FR shielded red Line-level RL shielded green Line-level RR shielded yellow Line-level common/return pink Speaker-level FL+ violet Speaker-level FL- green Speaker-level FR+ blue Speaker-level FR- black Speaker-level RL+ ** yellow Speaker-level RL- ** red Speaker-level RR+ white Speaker-level RR-
* Goes to "25A RADIO NO. 1" fuse in fuse block in engine compartment.
** As mentioned in post 629 to my recollection these lines are actually not present in the harness but are included here for completeness.
Also just realized, and not mentioned in post 629, that I must have tapped into the area of the harness just rearward of the A pillar in order to have access to the RR speaker lines coming from the power amp.
Our window sticker had "Tow Prep Package & Converter (3500 lbs)" listed. Notified Toyota.com and they instructed the dealer to install the converter. At first Toyota resisted, but it clearly indicated that the converter is included.
I wanted to change the fog light bulb on the car and on the sylvania site it said it took a H3 bulb but when i took the bulb out from the fog light housing, it said it was a H3D(which looks like an H3 but with H7 plug). Did anyone find a replacement bulb?
Are you going to let this go? Like you, I was ripped off. I have the receipt and window sticker for the 2004 Highlander tow prep package, and the brochure clearly states that "trailer prewiring" is included. But, it's not there. Both the dealership and toyota.com are giving me the runaround. By the way I owned a 2001 Highlander and installer the hitch myself, there is no plastic box on the 2004, the spare is there.
The "trailer prewiring" consists of the harness from the engine compart fuse box to the converter, which is by the drivers side rear wheel on my '04. Must remove panels inside of HL to gain access to converter. Reading prior post for this hitch wiring, I didn't know what the Tow Prep Package included. The dealer didn't either. I pushed Toyota for the CONVERTER, which is on my window sticker, NOT the wire harness, which I would still have to purchase. I think Toyota knows this Prep Package is misleading. I expected a harness by the bumper ready for a hitch also.
Thank you for contacting Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc. We apologize for the confusion surrounding the towing converter, transmission cooler, and wiring harness on your 2004 Highlander. We would like the opportunity to further review your concerns. Please provide us with a copy of your receipts and Monroney Label (window sticker). You may either fax the documentation to 310-381-7813, or you can mail them to: Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc. 19001 South Western Avenue. Department WC11 Torrance, CA 90509 We will be in touch with you shortly thereafter.
Thank you for contacting Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc. We appreciate the opportunity to address your inquiry. According to our records, you contacted us by telephone on April 9, 2004 regarding your Highlander. At that time we advised that you should look for a male jack connector with orange, brown, light blue wires. In addition we referred you to your local Toyota dealership for further assistance if the male connector cannot be found. Your email has been documented at our National Headquarters under file #200404020415. If we can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us.
We appreciate the opportunity to address your inquiry and apologize that our website did not offer additional information on pre-wiring. Trailer pre-wiring enables the optional towing electronics to plug into the vehicle. The optional towing electronics would include, for example, the converter and wiring harness. It has been our pleasure to assist you with the information you requested. Your email has been documented at our National Headquarters under file #200404121335. If we can be of further assistance, please feel free contact us via contact us. or by calling 800-331-4331. We are available from 6 AM to 6 PM, Pacific Standard Time, Monday through Friday.
Thank you for contacting Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc. We appreciate the opportunity to address your inquiry. The pre-wiring for the tow package on the 2004 Highlander is located internally within the body of the vehicle. In order for the pre-wire to be utilized, the wiring harness and converter would need to be installed. Your email has been documented at our National Headquarters under file #200404121335. If we can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us.
Thank you for updating Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc. We apologize that our previous response did not directly answer your inquiry. According to our research, the 2004 Highlander with the Towing Prep Package option (as yours has) does not include the converter box found in previous model year Highlanders. If you were to purchase the Toyota towing hitch, which is supplied with a wiring connector, you would still need to purchase the converter box separately. We apologize if this has caused you any confusion or inconvenience. Please discuss your towing needs with the Customer Relations Manager at Northway Motor Car for possible options or alternatives. Your file #200404140104 has been updated with this email at our National Headquarters. If we can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us. Thank you for your patience and understanding.
i just bought a 2004 highlander and was wondering if i could get the side airbags installed after market. sorry if that's a stupid question but my wife is bugging me about it
I've read the posts about others' experience with the non-existent "trailer prewiring" in the '04 Highlander.
I spoke with the customer relations people at Toyota and was told my concerns would be passed on to higher management but not to expect a reply.
I bought a Hidden Hitch unit at etrailer.com and paid my local mechanic $18 to install it. I had to buy the Toyota harness from my dealer for $38 plus tax. I installed it myself with no problems.
I'm curious if anyone has had success getting Toyota to pay for the harness. It seems to me this is a blatant case of false advertising since the brochure clearly states the prewiring is included in the trailer tow package.
I intend to persue this issue with Toyota so any and all responses would be appreciated.
For the money involved, I don't think it would be practical to file a class action suit. If a lawyer were even to take the case, his fee would wind up taking just about all of any judgement we might be able to get. I, for one, would be happy to get my $40 refunded. I think Toyota ought to volunteer to pay for the harness and installation as a matter of good customer relations.
Mine has privacy glass and I had tint, lighter than the privacy glass, added to just the front sides. I think it looks OK, better than with no tint on the front. I would have preferred to tint the front as dark as the privacy glass, but Smokey would object. You have to check your state regs. A lot of states frown on front tint that is as dark as the privacy glass (which isn't even all that dark IMO).
How does one access this mystery black box? What inside panel must be removed? It sounds from the various posts I've read that toyota move this "mystery box" around.
Has anyone found a good hitch that doesn't have that bulky loop that goes around the muffler? Has anyone tired a 2003 model hitch does to see if it would fit (assuming no 3rd row seats)?
As far as I can see, there is no "black box" on the '04 Highlander, at least on the Ltd with the third row of seats. There are three panels that must be removed. The panel covering the latch that the rear door fastens to and the panels on the floor on each side of the aforementioned panel need to be removed. There are a few threaded knobs and spring loaded fasteners that need to be located and removed. Also, the two little doors that provide access to the taillights need to come off. The Toyota connectors to the taillights are unplugged, the new harness is plugged in and the original Toyota connectors are plugged back in to the backside of the newly installed harness plugs. There is a hole in the body on the drivers side through which the harness is fed and then routed to the hitch.
Installing the harness only takes 30 or so minutes and is straightforward.
I bought a Hidden Hitch hitch that I believe fits all model year Highlanders. It is bulky and somewhat unsightly.
If one buys the Toyota converter and connectors - I assume you had to buy the converter and harness, are there instructions provide (similar to what you provided - I'm a very visual person)? What about an aftermarket converter and harness say from Hidden Hitch? From crawling under my '04 non-Ltd, w/out the 3rd row seating, and searching the entire undercarriage, I agree, there is NO BLACK BOX to plug anything into. I'm I missing something or as stated by "apop" there isn't a black box on the "04s to simply plug into ?
The best I can tell, there are no aftermarket converter/harness units available for the '04 yet. I've spoken with Hidden Hitch, etrailer.com, and Drawtite who all confirm this. The Toyota unit seems to be the only show in town at this time.
The harness I bought from my local Toyota dealer did not have instructions included but the package was torn and I think they might have been removed by someone else. A prior post did state that instructions were included in the package.
Thanks for the comment. I am going to tint my front side windows. Here in Hawaii, they allow 35% tint, which isn't as dark as the privacy glass but is better than nothing!
I just purchased a Highlander from a local dealer but wanted the spoiler....he charged me about $350 to add it and said it would take 2-3 days. Question: Is this going to be as 'permanent' as the factory installed one? Of course I asked this question and they said yes but can I really trust them?
I purchased a brand new one on eBay for a few hundred dollars. Arrived in perfect shape from a reputable eBay after-market dealer, painted as I instructed. Installed it myself with four bolts through the existing holes in the chassis. It was no problem, even doing it without help. One caveat. It is very light and it dropped out of my hand and got nicked in unnoticeable spot. Once installed, it will be there forever, just like one from Toyota.
Thanks for the reply Steve. I feel better knowing that it's not hard to do. My dealer says it only takes an hour but they had to order it and it's late arriving. Hope the paint matches well. Appreciate the quick reply.
I recently installed a spoiler. IF they send you a template, check it out closely to insure that the right and left are mirror images. Next, check the placement of the template on the hatch as well as the template on the spoiler itself to insure the distance to measure is the same. From the spoiler to the bottom of the hatch is 19". Next check that the bolts supplied go into the holes - I had one that was cross threaded. After you mark the holes to drill with a markers, you can double check the accuracy of the template by putting small balls of cotton in each hole in the spoiler. Apply nail polish or any other paint to the cotton and CAREFULLY with two people, place the spoiler in place. Check ALL you measurements and insure the the distance from the spoiler to the edge of the hatch is the same on both sides (you want to have about 1/8"). Remove the spoiler by lifting up and away. Check the fresh paint marks. Actually, this is the best way to mark your holes, any other way is a guess. I know, my template was 1/4" off!! Drill your holes as marked with the proper size bit. NOTE: Toyota has provide 3 access ports covered by rubber plugs. One can secure the spoiler with only 3 bolts (driver side top hole has no access through the double panel on the inside of the hatch. If you want to attach all 4 bolts, you'll need to drill a 3/4" hole through the inside panel - it is not easy). IF 3 holes are used, consider using a marine epoxy for the fouth attachment point.
The job can be done by one person, two makes it easier. I found that I had to tie the hatch half way open so as not to knick the spoiler during attachment (did it by my self). All in all, it should take about an hour - taking your time. Mine took three in that I had to figure out why my holes were not aligning then I had to slot my holes with a round file to get them to match up - what a pain. As for the cross thread - I expoxyed the bolt on place.
There's a little container thing that pulls out of the bottom dash panel on the left side of the steering wheel. It's the access door for the fuses, but it's also a little storage bin.
Thanks for pointing this little compartment out. I didn't even know it was there. Think I'll line it with some felt or something to keep the rattles down.
The maf sensor is located on top of the air filter housing. It is approximately l.5 x 1.5 inches, and is attached to a wiring connector. Carefully remove the connector, and the two screws holding the sensor. Lift the sensor straight up, being 'very' careful not to touch the housing [the sensors are very costly]. The sensor leads look like a large safety pin with a thermometer bulb on the end. You may see an oily contamination on the bulb, which can be removed by lightly spraying with the electronic parts cleaner. Do not touch the bulb or wires. The cleaner will self-dry almost immediately. Carefully reinstall.
The parts cleaner is available available at any electronics parts store. Radio Shack carries a quick dry cleaner made by CRC.
The K&N filters are great . . . just clean carefully, and re-oil 'lightly'. Good luck!
I just recently purchased a 2004 Toyota Highlander (non-limited) and the dealer told me that CD changers were not an option on the non-limited (only limited model). Is this correct? Can they order one and install it? I would like to know if I have any options to pursue on this matter.
Comments
Pat
The undercoating did not make much of a difference regarding road noise [except at highway speeds] but the new tires did. I bought Michelin Cross Terrains last week and the difference in snow/wet traction is unbelievable.
By the way, I'm using Cooper studded snows, and they HOWL at 40 to 50 mph. Tread problem, not studs. Gonna take them back.
I'm a newbie but have people that are experienced in doing my system. I was wondering, if I wanted to get an amp for the system but use the stock headset, what could I do since I know that there are no RCA jacks on the back of the headset. I heard a few of you people spliced a wire, but is it necessary to do that? Any recommendations?
1.(part # 08921-48860 - converter box)
2.(part # 08942-48870-BB - 4-pin wiring harness)
The wiring installation is not as piece of cake although instructions are supplied with the parts.
You can purchase a hitch (Hidden Hitch or Draw-Tite) over the internet for about $140 delivered to your home. The hitch installation takes about 10 minutes.
It’s my opinion that Toyota is trying to scam more money if people purchases non-Toyota hitches by requiring these additional parts.
I have the 2001 HL Limited(With JBL System).
Well, I was thinking about what how you installed your amplifier. I was wondering, what happened to the stock amplifier? Did you jstu leave it there or did u take it out? I am thinking of replacing the stock amp and using that harness, but I'm going to have trouble with the wiring since I won't know which wire is which. I was wondering, the harness that is plugged into the amp, does it have the wires that goes to all 4 speakers? I recently picked up the adapter to convert line level to RCA so I was planning to re-wire the harness to use for the new amplifier. I am hoping to find an amp small enough to replace the factory amp, but from what I've heard on this forum, the stock amp is pretty small and no manufacturers make an amp that small. Is there any other suggestions you have? Thx
I removed the factory amp.
We're pretty much thinking along the same lines -- by far the most convenient thing is to locate the new amp in the same location as the factory amp (behind the carpet behind the rear seat), as the factory amp has the line-level signals going into it and the speaker-level lines going out to all four speakers, the idea being simply swapping the factory amp with the new amp (of course the molex-style connectors going to the factory amp won't connect to the new amp, and ideally the adapter you got will plug into this connector to brake-out the line-level signals to RCA connectors that will plug into the new amp). Alas, as you noted and as I discovered, the area occupied by the factory amp is too small for most aftermarket amps, unless if you can find some long narrow amps.
Alternatively, after you get the new amplifier you might experiment to see if you can locate it close to the area where the factory amp is, perhaps behind the seat but in front of the carpet. If you could fit the new amp under the rear seat this would work, but there is very little room under there when the rear seat is folded down (I'll wager most HL owners never noticed that the base of the rear seat moves down slightly as the seat back is folded down). Or, depending on you're tastes as far as the amp being visible, it could be mounted in the cargo area somewhere (I looked around the area under the cargo area (where the spare tire is), but didn't remember seeing any spots where I thought I could put the amp).
Otherwise, if I had to do it all again I probably would do it the same way as I did before: locate the amp under the front passenger seat and tap into the harness under the scuff plate in the front passenger door opening; its a little cumbersome getting at it. This requires familiarity with a soldering pencil or crimp tool, and patience splicing into wires in the middle of a harness. The line-level signals consist of five wires (the four channels and a common) and a shield -- I used shielded cable in running the lines to the amp to maintain the shield to guard against magnetic interference even though it was maybe only a couple of feet of cable run. Three of the four speaker lines are present in the harness and thus connecting to these is straight-forward (FL, FR & RR if I remember correctly). For the RL what I did, after removing the factory amp, was, at the factory amp location, connect the RL and FR lines together. Then, where I spliced into the harness at the front passenger door, I severed the FR speaker line. The severed end heading toward the front of the car was connected to the amplifier FR speaker output, and the severed end heading toward the rear of the car was connected to the amplifier RL speaker output. Other options include, instead of tapping into the harness in the passenger door opening, to run the preamp lines directly from the head unit to the amp (via under the carpet), and run new speaker wires directly to each speaker, but when is all said and done it would probably be easier to tap into the harness.
One caveat. Gaining access to the factory amp is a bit of a pain. After removing the rear seats, to lift the carpet to expose the amp I ended up removing practically all of the interior body panels in the cargo area. You can cheat by cutting a hole in the carpet; the amp is located toward the right maybe a foot or so from the right interior wall.
As if this isn't long enough will post pin-outs for the signal lines in a couple of days or so.
Good luck!
Wire Color Description
blue/yellow +12V *
white/black GND
green/yellow Remote
shielded black Line-level FL
shielded white Line-level FR
shielded red Line-level RL
shielded green Line-level RR
shielded yellow Line-level common/return
pink Speaker-level FL+
violet Speaker-level FL-
green Speaker-level FR+
blue Speaker-level FR-
black Speaker-level RL+ **
yellow Speaker-level RL- **
red Speaker-level RR+
white Speaker-level RR-
Connectors on the power amp behind the back seat:
Connector/Pin Description
B/7 +12V *
B/12 GND
A/1 Remote
A/5 Line-level FL
A/6 Line-level FR
A/13 Line-level RL
A/14 Line-level RR
A/11 Line-level common/return
B/2 Speaker-level FL+
B/9 Speaker-level FL-
B/1 Speaker-level FR+
B/8 Speaker-level FR-
B/4 Speaker-level RL+
B/11 Speaker-level RL-
B/3 Speaker-level RR+
B/10 Speaker-level RR-
* Goes to "25A RADIO NO. 1" fuse in fuse block in engine compartment.
** As mentioned in post 629 to my recollection these lines are actually not present in the harness but are included here for completeness.
Also just realized, and not mentioned in post 629, that I must have tapped into the area of the harness just rearward of the A pillar in order to have access to the RR speaker lines coming from the power amp.
I wanted to change the fog light bulb on the car and on the sylvania site it said it took a H3 bulb but when i took the bulb out from the fog light housing, it said it was a H3D(which looks like an H3 but with H7 plug). Did anyone find a replacement bulb?
I have the receipt and window sticker for the 2004 Highlander tow prep package, and the brochure clearly states that "trailer prewiring" is included. But, it's not there. Both the dealership and toyota.com are giving me the runaround. By the way I owned a 2001 Highlander and installer the hitch myself, there is no plastic box on the 2004, the spare is there.
We apologize for the confusion surrounding the towing converter, transmission cooler, and wiring harness on your 2004 Highlander.
We would like the opportunity to further review your concerns.
Please provide us with a copy of your receipts and Monroney Label (window sticker). You may either fax the documentation to 310-381-7813, or you can mail them to:
Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.
19001 South Western Avenue. Department WC11
Torrance, CA 90509
We will be in touch with you shortly thereafter.
Thank you for contacting Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.
We appreciate the opportunity to address your inquiry.
According to our records, you contacted us by telephone on April 9, 2004 regarding your Highlander. At that time we advised that you should look for a male jack connector with orange, brown, light blue wires. In addition we referred you to your local Toyota dealership for further assistance if the male connector cannot be found.
Your email has been documented at our National Headquarters under file #200404020415. If we can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us.
We appreciate the opportunity to address your inquiry and apologize that our website did not offer additional information on pre-wiring.
Trailer pre-wiring enables the optional towing electronics to plug into the vehicle. The optional towing electronics would include, for example, the converter and wiring harness.
It has been our pleasure to assist you with the information you requested.
Your email has been documented at our National Headquarters under file #200404121335. If we can be of further assistance, please feel free contact us via contact us. or by calling 800-331-4331. We are available from 6 AM to 6 PM, Pacific Standard Time, Monday through Friday.
Thank you for contacting Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.
We appreciate the opportunity to address your inquiry.
The pre-wiring for the tow package on the 2004 Highlander is located internally within the body of the vehicle. In order for the pre-wire to be utilized, the wiring harness and converter would need to be installed.
Your email has been documented at our National Headquarters under file #200404121335. If we can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us.
Thank you for updating Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.
We apologize that our previous response did not directly answer your inquiry.
According to our research, the 2004 Highlander with the Towing Prep Package option (as yours has) does not include the converter box found in previous model year Highlanders.
If you were to purchase the Toyota towing hitch, which is supplied with a wiring connector, you would still need to purchase the converter box separately.
We apologize if this has caused you any confusion or inconvenience.
Please discuss your towing needs with the Customer Relations Manager at Northway Motor Car for possible options or alternatives.
Your file #200404140104 has been updated with this email at our National Headquarters. If we can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us.
Thank you for your patience and understanding.
I spoke with the customer relations people at Toyota and was told my concerns would be passed on to higher management but not to expect a reply.
I bought a Hidden Hitch unit at etrailer.com and paid my local mechanic $18 to install it. I had to buy the Toyota harness from my dealer for $38 plus tax. I installed it myself with no problems.
I'm curious if anyone has had success getting Toyota to pay for the harness. It seems to me this is a blatant case of false advertising since the brochure clearly states the prewiring is included in the trailer tow package.
I intend to persue this issue with Toyota so any and all responses would be appreciated.
Has anyone found a good hitch that doesn't have that bulky loop that goes around the muffler? Has anyone tired a 2003 model hitch does to see if it would fit (assuming no 3rd row seats)?
Installing the harness only takes 30 or so minutes and is straightforward.
I bought a Hidden Hitch hitch that I believe fits all model year Highlanders. It is bulky and somewhat unsightly.
The harness I bought from my local Toyota dealer did not have instructions included but the package was torn and I think they might have been removed by someone else. A prior post did state that instructions were included in the package.
Appreciate the quick reply.
Paul
The job can be done by one person, two makes it easier. I found that I had to tie the hatch half way open so as not to knick the spoiler during attachment (did it by my self). All in all, it should take about an hour - taking your time. Mine took three in that I had to figure out why my holes were not aligning then I had to slot my holes with a round file to get them to match up - what a pain. As for the cross thread - I expoxyed the bolt on place.
End result - it looks great ! Next job...flares !
I used these rubber bumpers on all 4 corners of the plate. I also used one in each upper corner the glove-box door to fix that little rattle too.
Phil
The maf sensor is located on top of the air filter housing. It is approximately l.5 x 1.5 inches, and is attached to a wiring connector. Carefully remove the connector, and the two screws holding the sensor. Lift the sensor straight up, being 'very' careful not to touch the housing [the sensors are very costly]. The sensor leads look like a large safety pin with a thermometer bulb on the end. You may see an oily contamination on the bulb, which can be removed by lightly spraying with the electronic parts cleaner. Do not touch the bulb or wires. The cleaner will self-dry almost immediately. Carefully reinstall.
The parts cleaner is available available at any electronics parts store. Radio Shack carries a quick dry cleaner made by CRC.
The K&N filters are great . . . just clean carefully, and re-oil 'lightly'. Good luck!
Sirfile
Thanks for your help.