It was factory installed. I visited a couple of dealers and all the HL's I looked at with the leather/heated seats were mated with a JBL 8 or 10 speaker system with CD changer. I think the distributor here in NJ configures the cars and ships to the dealers (from what I've been told).
They should have no problem installing the changer, especially since it is made for the car (no special fit kits needed).
I thought about just order a CD changer myself and replace it but I heard that the 6 disc CD changer has ext. amplier so even the connector on the back is the same but they might not work properly.
Also, the basic HL only has 6 speakers and wonder if they will still works afterward
Do I have a problem with my cruise control? My Highlander is 3 weeks old and I have approximately 3000 miles on the vehicle. When the vehicle is in cruise control at 65 to 70 MPH on interstate highways,there appears to be excessive downshifting when going up hills. I do not mean just 1 downshift, but a series of downshifts and upshifts while the vehicle is attempting to maintain the set speed. The vehicle downshifts, accelerates to the set speed, upshifts when it reaches the set speed then, not more than a minute or so later, downshifts again and goes through the cycle again until the vehicle reaches the top. I've counted up to 6 downshifts on a hill no longer than 1/2 mile. Every hill that I've encountered along Interstates 81 in PA, 84 from PA to MA, 70 and 79 through MD and WV. THIS VEHICLE IS BEATING ME TO DEATH WITH DOWNSHIFTING AND UPSHIFTING. I can take the vehicle out of OD when going up a hill to eliminate the problem, but then I have to remember to put the vehicle back in to OD when I reach the crest of the hill. This is not acceptable to me. I can also eliminate the problem by not using the cruise control. This also is not acceptable. When not using the cruise control, the vehicle smoothly climbs the hill with little or no pressure on the gas pedal. Is this normal or is the computer calling for the upshift too soon?
How is the CC working on a level terrain? I'll bet is doing alright. In PA the terrain is hilly, and the use of the CC is not recommended in such (I don't know for sure if this is written in the manual or not). But my answer is: it sounds like a normal behavior for the modern cruise control. I'm sure somebody will correct me, if my answer is wrong.
The side airbags are indeed located in the seats. (There's an electrical harness emerging from the carpet under the seat connecting to seats with airbags -- not sure if this harness is present in HLs without side airbags. Also not sure whether just connecting the harness to the new seats will automatically enable the airbags (is it just supplying power, with the sensor to deploy the airbag in the seat, or does the harness itself send a signal to deploy the airbag, and, if so, is this signal enabled in HLs not originally equipped with side airbags).) Check with the dealer to see if this can be done.
FYI for any HL owner with side airbags who plan to remove their front seats for whatever reason, the service manual states the battery cable should be disconnected 90 seconds before disconnecting the harness at the seat to prevent the airbag from accidentally deploying, and safety glasses should be worn during the procedure.
Want to wire the daytime running lights with a swictch to turn off and on. Also have the fog lights turn on with the parking lights. I have the wiring diagrams for my 2004 Highlander. Thanks for any help.
I just purchased an 2004 V6 HL (non Limited) and tried to get the dealership to change out the stereo for the better system (and believe me there is a big sound quality difference) they also told me this was NOT a possibility. They said they could put in a 6 disc. changer. But I don't care about the CHANGER, I want better sound. The speakers are all in the same places, just some of them contain more than one speaker per spot.
loucapri is correct in that the JBL system has a power amp external to the head (radio/CD/tape player) unit. My guess is this may not be a dealer-upgradable option. If you're happy with the non-JBL head unit, you could buy the JBL amp and speakers from Toyota and figure out how to wire them up yourself (or talk the dealer into doing it or have a automotive audio shop do it) but this would be prohibitively expensive as Toyota will charge you an arm and a leg for these components, way more than aftermarket products of comparable quality. As for upgrading the head unit itself to the JBL, for some reason in the back of my mind I'm thinking this is not feasible due to electronic interfacing issues with the non-limited heater/AC controls, but I can't remember now where I got this idea; I may be wrong.
Best solution IMO is to have aftermarket amp and speakers installed. You'll get better quality sound and for a lower price than if you upgraded to Toyota JBL components. Trick is to choose the right components. Review past posts to this board and to the "Highlander Accessories and Modifications" board as this has been discussed in the past; results have been mixed (including in my case); also check out other car audio discussions on the web that may have more knowledgeable people on car audio. General guidelines are to audition the speakers in the stereo store with the type of music you normally listen to to see how they sound to your ear; listen at somewhat loud volume levels as these are the levels you'll be playing them at in the car to be heard over the road noise. My guess is "JBL-quality" speakers will start around $300/pair for the front and $200/pair for the rear, and comparable amp will start around $300, but don't go by price alone; LISTEN before spending a penny!
I was speaking to my brother last night and he just suggested some of the same things. I know what sounds good but not always how to make that happen. I am feeling better about my options now. I just could not understand that I would have to spend another $5000.00 To buy a Limited for the better stereo.
I don't really want to change out the head unit. I like the factory fit and look. I had to change out the one in my 14 year old Celica and I still like the old look better. You are also correct that Toyota will charge an arm and 2 legs for their stuff. They wanted $1200 to replace/repair the old unit. So I spent $250 on a Kenwood including install.
How do I access the old discussions about this topic ?? Landdriver what did you end up doing and were not please with the changes??
The old discussions on this topic can be accessed by clicking the Advanced Search link at the bottom of the left column of this web page, typing-in a keyword such as "speakers", selecting Search Within: Message Text, selecting Limit by Location: Toyota Highlander Owners: Accessories and Modifications, and clicking Search.
I was happy with the amp I upgraded to, which was an Alpine MRV-F340, but less than happy with the speakers I upgraded to, aftermarket JBL GTOs. They sounded too boomy, which is a complaint that others who upgraded their sound system have expressed, while others still, typically those who bought really good quality speakers, have said that their system sounded great.
I agree with you about the factory head unit. Some of those aftermarket head units have so many glitzy flashing lights and displays that they're totally out of character with Highlander's sedate interior styling.
landdriver, I have spent most of this morning reading through old posts on stereo systems. This has been a great help. I did see where someone made mention about accessing the midrange on the base/head (non-JBL)unit. Is this something that will happen when the amp & new speakers are installed or is there something else that needs to be done??
Also can you tell me what kind of wattage I have now ?? I have looked through the owners manual and found nothing that gives me this kind of info. Also how much wattage should I be trying to get.
I see several people have been using Infinity Kappas speakers. Are they really as good as they say or are you just paying for the name??
I can't add much to your discussion with landdriver as he knows much more about this topic than I. What I can tell you is that in my previous vehicle [Jeep], I upgraded the stereo with a Pioneer head unit [I think it was around 24 watts]and 4 Infinity speakers. I would not hesitate in recommending the speakers - the sound from them was excellent. The head unit was called a "din and a half", meaning it was a wider unit that fit the wide space in the dash found in Jeeps and some GM models. It performed great, but it's faceplate looked like it came from an amusement park and it would have looked ridiculous in the HL.
I was looking into what you said at an earlier post that you spliced your wires from the harness into the amp. Does that mean that you got an amp with line level inputs?
I have a 2004 Limited with JBL Premium system . I'm not impressed with it. To much dull bass to much harsh treble and not much of a sound stage. It may be ok at low volume levels but if you want volume a little on the loud side the sound is harsh flat and not very detailed. I will be replacing the JBL speakers maybe with Infinty speakers and the addition of a small subwoofer in the rear. If you are looking for the amp locate the rear tray with tire tools/jack storage, pull out the two plastic rivets and lift out the black plastic tray, the amp is underneath on the passanger side. The JBL speakers are probably cheap model. You money is better spent on premium after market speakers and maybe a better amp from a good custom installer. I drove a 96 Jeep with factory Infinty system and it put the Toyota JBL to shame. By the way the 04 Honda Pilot stereo is even worse than the Toyota.
I did see where someone made mention about accessing the midrange on the base/head (non-JBL)unit. Is this something that will happen when the amp & new speakers are installed or is there something else that needs to be done??
Unfortunately on non-JBL head units the midrange control is not normally enabled. To access it you will merely need to go through the sequence outlined in the posts. You will need to do this each time you start the car unless if you remember to turn off the radio before turning off the ignition.
Also can you tell me what kind of wattage I have now ?? ... Also how much wattage should I be trying to get.
To my ear in comparing with an aftermarket amp of known power my rough guess is the factory JBL system puts out 15W rms per channel. (I'm not sure but the '04 factory JBL system seems to sound better than the '01 JBL, but its hard for me to be sure as its been a couple of years since I upgraded my '01 JBL -- anyone who still has an '01-'03 JBL notice any difference with the '04 JBL?) For non-JBL factory systems I'm going to guess the power output is less than 10W rms/ch.
In comparing two Alpine amps in the Highlander, one rated at 40W rms/ch and the other at 55W rms/ch, the 55W model sounded much better, so I'd use 50W rms per channel as a starting point (but let your ear be the final judge!) (Also, someone on these boards felt the Alpines were overpriced and preferred the Rockford Fosgates.)
fvp:
I can't add much to your discussion with landdriver as he knows much more about this topic than I.
I just sound like I know more -- this is my first foray into car audio!
wwlccp:
I was looking into what you said at an earlier post that you spliced your wires from the harness into the amp. Does that mean that you got an amp with line level inputs?
Yes, the amp I got has line level inputs (Alpine MRV-F340).
(The factory JBL power amp, which is located in the rear of the vehicle, receives its line-level inputs from the line-level outputs of the JBL head unit, via the harness running from the front of the vehicle to the rear; the speaker-level outputs of the JBL power amp in turn go to the speakers.)
jack69:
If you are looking for the amp locate the rear tray with tire tools/jack storage, pull out the two plastic rivets and lift out the black plastic tray, the amp is underneath on the passanger side.
Sounds like its in the same general vicinity of, but way more accessible than, those in '01s. (In '01s (and probably '02s-'03s) the JBL amp is located behind second-row seat under carpet on passenger side; must remove carpet to access it.)
I recently replaced my 01 Highlander with an 04 and have two questions. When I tried to swap the stock Goodyear tires for Michelin cross terrains, I discovered the terrains aren't available in the Limited's size (17 inch). Has anyone found a better alternative? I'm also considering putting XM radio in the car, but can't decide between a new head unit for a direct connect approach or the XM Commander with an FM modulated connection (I'm assuming the upgraded JBL head unit does not have an auxiliary connection for a direct connect of the Commander). Any experiences with the sound quality of either option? And, finally, thanks to all for the ideas and insights I've gained from this forum!
Does anyone have any thoughts or experience about/with MB Quartz Speakers ??? Was shown some in a show room a couple of days ago. Price seams pretty good and so do most of the reviews on line. The one's I'm looking at are DSE-216's
MB Quartz in general are supposed to be really good. Not familiar with specific models but I assume your on-line review research included epinions.com?
Like I've recommended in previous posts, don't go just by price or model, but listen to the speakers you're thinking of purchasing with the type of music you typically listen to and let your ears be the final judge.
I have tried to figure this out from previous posts, but am still confused: for my 2002 non-LTD HL, if I buy the 6-disc changer that replaces my in-dash 1-disc unit, can I simply plug and play? or are there amp, speaker, or other issues I need to consider? I'm not trying to upgrade the sound, just get the convenience of an in-dash changer. Thanks. Bill
it should work since most toyota use the same plug for their stereo. However, on the HL, if you only have the basic CD/radio, (without an amp) then you should check with the dealer to make sure the in dash changer will work on your HL. They probably will give you a part number as well then you can buy it online?
Yes, I have been listening to each speaker set up I am looking at. Last Saturday I took my brother along with me and we went to 3 different custom audio/stereo places. He is better at understanding all the techno. stuff then big Sis is. At each of the shops when we walked in we made it clear that it was my NEW HL and my MONEY. Still one of the shops talk almost ONLY to him. You would have thought I was inviable. Needless to say they WON'T be getting my $1200.00.
I may break down and change my head unit to an ALPINE CDA-9825 with JL Audio TR 6.5 speakers with 2 smaller 4 channel amps (mostly for space reason) and 1 10" sub in the back. JL Audio makes a very slim box with a screen that fits very nicely along the back of the back seat (the angle is great) and can be easly unplugged and removed if I need the cargo space. I don't haul much on a daily basis. But if I would need to I want to be able to.
Looking at maybe doing this next week. This shop seams ver reputable and understands who's paying the bill. They weere able to play from each deck to the speakers I was looking at and show me the difference of adding the sub.
Thanks for all your input it has haelped a lot. dowen
Yes, I have been listening to each speaker set up I am looking at. Last Saturday I took my brother along with me and we went to 3 different custom audio/stereo places. He is better at understanding all the techno. stuff then big Sis is. At each of the shops when we walked in we made it clear that it was my NEW HL and my MONEY. Still one of the shops talk almost ONLY to him. You would have thought I was inviable. Needless to say they WON'T be getting my $1200.00.
I may break down and change my head unit to an ALPINE CDA-9825 with JL Audio TR 6.5 speakers with 2 smaller 4 channel amps (mostly for space reason) and 1 10" sub in the back. JL Audio makes a very slim box with a screen that fits very nicely along the back of the back seat (the angle is great) and can be easly unplugged and removed if I need the cargo space. I don't haul much on a daily basis. But if I would need to I want to be able to.
Looking at maybe doing this next week. This shop seams ver reputable and understands who's paying the bill. They weere able to play from each deck to the speakers I was looking at and show me the difference of adding the sub.
Thanks for all your input it has haelped a lot. dowen
I'm planning to use this to hook up my amp to the stereo HU. Will this work and could you suggest how I would wire it? Could you help me out and tell me which wire(color) goes to which on this converter? I'm unsure if this would work or not.
Well, that's what I'm trying to calculate. If I get the Alpine one, the MRV-F340 like yours, then I won't need it. But, if I'm getting the Hifonics Warrior Eagle, then I'll need one. Most likely I'm installing hte amp underneath the seat since there is no other place where I can install it without being out in the open. Unless you have another place where I can install it? I just want to check out the total cost of each way before I decide. If I get the Hifonics one, then I'll need this converter, if the alpine, then I don't need one right? Does your amp fit exactly underneath the seat or is there space around the amp? I'm planning to leave the stock amp as it is and not bother taking it out. It's gonna be a headache trying to take it out. I'll just install the new amp and wire my speakers from there. How did you hide your power wire(going to the battery) to the amp? Thanks!
Actually now that I think about it you probably can get away with not purchasing the adapter regardless of whether or not the amp you get has speaker-level inputs (Im inferring from your post that the Hifonics doesn't have speaker-level inputs), as it looks like you will have access to the factory head-unit's line-level outputs. I agree that under the front passenger seat is the best place to mount it; has enough space to accommodate moderately large aftermarket amps; make sure to verify non-interference with adjustable seat travel before finalizing exact mounting location and also don't block the heating vents protruding from under the carpet supplying AC to the rear; use silicone glue underneath the vehicle to seal any mounting screw holes drilled into the sheetmetal floor.
Unfortunately (regardless of whether you opt for a line-level or speaker-level input connection setup (generally a line-level input setup is preferred if the choice exists)), in tracing the harness path through the vehicle, I don't see getting around having to gain access to the factory amp. There are ways of avoiding this (routing a new set of speaker wires from the new amp to the speakers, thus bypassing the factory speaker wiring), but those ways are probably more hassle than accessing the factory amp . However, a far easier way of accessing the factory amp exists than having to dismantle most of the interior panels in the cargo area in order to lift up the carpet as I stated in an earlier post. If you don't mind cutting into the carpet, then all you have to do is remove the right rear seat (after unsnapping the cargo-area carpet), make an H shaped slit in the vertical section of the carpet behind the seat maybe 1 foot (can't remember for sure now precisely where the factory amp is located) away from the right wall to access the amp. Once you replace the seat no one will ever see the incision.
After disconnecting the two connectors from the factory amp and shorting a couple of pins together, all of your connections to the new amp can be made by tapping into the harness running along the right side of the vehicle under the scuff plates, including power connections if you want, as the power lines going to the factory amp are present in this harness, although the wire gauge is thinner than that generally recommended by the aftermarket amp manufacturers. You can get away with this if you don't plan to crank your sound system really high. Otherwise you'll want to run new power and ground wires of the thicker gauge recommended by the manufacturer. One option is to route them under the scuff plates paralleling the existing harness and then either routing through an existing hole in the firewall or drilling a new hole. The disadvantage with this is it requires the removal of some interior trim panels and gaining access behind the dash. The other option is to drill a hole in the floor and route the wires under the vehicle. Perhaps others in this forum who've installed aftermarket amps can offer additional suggestions.
I'll post the exact wire colors and the exact pins that need to be shorted on the connector at the factory amp in a subsequent post when you get closer to doing the install; post 632 is a useful reference on this subject.
Hi Apop: I know this is an old thread, but i just got my 2004 HL and you seem to be the only person who has wired one successfully!
A hitch dealer told me they could just splice on an aftermarket harness. On a different forum, however, i was advised that a converter is necessary as well, because trailers use the same lamps for brake and turn signals.
It sounds like you only bought the Toyota harness. What about the converter? Have you gotten the wiring to work without one?
Thought I would give you and update. I have just picked up my 04 HL from the stereo shop (yesterday) where they completed the major overhaul of my sound system. Here's is what we did.
Last Saturday 7-24 they installed 1 pair JL Audio TR650-cxi speakers in the front doors. One Alpine amp MRP-240 50Wx4 (360 max. Watt)and one Alpine amp MRP-M350, 350WX1 (700 max. watt) dedicated to run one JL Audio 10" Sub Woofer in the back.
This made an "O MY GOD" MAJOR difference in itself. They were supposed to change out the head unit, but they had received the kit for an H/L Limited. Which I am not. So I went back yesterday 7-31-04 and they installed the new Alpine head unit a CDA-9825. It does look nice as well.
I was reluctant to change out my head unit. I like the look of factory. I wondered if it would really make a noticeable difference. I MUST admit that YES it does!!!! Voice quality is improved.
And let me say anyone that has not added a Sub-Woofer is missing out. I also did not think I needed one. But let me say I LOVE IT !!! It is only a 10" and it is in a thin JL Audio box. It fits so nicely against my 2nd row seat. They left me enough wire that I can use it behind my 3rd row if need be. Or is easily removable if need be. The box takes up so little space, it great. It truly adds such warmth to the sound.
There will be one more up grade to the front speaker and then I will move the TR's to the back doors.
I am sure this is not as involved as some would have but I am truly enjoying the GREAT sound.
All in all I have spent $1254.00 with install. Also maybe not the cheapest but they did a great job !!! NO SCRATCHES !!
I recently purchased a set of 17" alloy wheels from a Sienna on ebay. I got an excellent price and was all set to do a 'plus one' conversion dropping my tire ratio from 70 series to 60 series. Then I figured out the bad news.
First, the Highlander has a 35mm wheel offset. The Sienna, and most other Toyotas have a 45mm wheel offset. Not a big deal, but not right. Wheel offsets run about $150 per pair.
Then I discovered that no tire manufacturer makes 225/60-17 tire. There is no 17", 60 series tire on the market with a 28.3" (stock Dunlop) diameter. The best I could do was a 225/55-17 Michelin at 26.6". This would give me a 4.4% speedo error or about 6mph at 70.
I decided that between the two problems I'd stick with stock rims and just go with a 16", 60 series tire. A Michelin 235/60-16 has a speedo error of 5.3% and a Continental 235/60-16 has a speedo error of 4.6%. I haven't done this yet because the Dunlops are still in good condition (43,000 miles rotating with the spare every 7,500 miles).
Fortunately, I was able to sell the Sienna rims to a Sienna owner who was very happy to purchase them. Live and learn.
Although I have enjoyed our Highlander for eight months, the delayed acceleration or hesitation has become unbearable. Search the board and you will find others who experience the same problem. I finally took it in to the dealership to see what they can do. I was surprised when they acknowledged that there is a hesitation! However, it is a design issue since other Highlanders do it. Below is what is delineated on my work order.
Concern: Customer states vehicle hesitates on acceleration check and advise. Cause: Verified concern with customer Correction: Delay response verified with customer road test. Compared with STK ##### compared the same.
Since there is no way to repair the vehicle, service department gives my Toyotas phone number to start the arbitration process. This took me to a meeting with the district service and parts manager from Toyota. I thought he was very nice and professional. He acknowledges that this problem exists with the Highlander and Solara. Toyota engineers are at the beginning stages of finding a way to rectify the issue. However, he did not know how far along in the process they are in finding a solution. Below is his write up on the work order from him:
Concern: Customer states vehicle has hesitation or delayed acceleration while driving. Cause: 0 Correction: Had factory rep inspect – see notes Tech Notes: Test drove vehicle with customer; there is a hesitation while accelerating. Advised that Toyota is aware of complaint. Advised that dealership will complete an MDT report including their feeling.
They will not acknowledge that it is a design defect or a safety issue. Therefore, any manufacture buy back will have to be ordered through arbitration. Today, I applied for arbitration.
I try not to be too materialistic and dwell over things that really have no meaning to my life. However, when you pay over $30k for a vehicle and you have no recourse, it can be upsetting. Anyway, I thought I would post this to help others who may need the info.
Below is some important information I left out from my original post:
My HL is a 2004 V6 AWD with approx. 9k miles on it. The factory rep said it applies to those vehicles with “fly” or “fly wire” acceleration. I cannot recall the exact verbiage he said (I will need to know for arbitration).
Test: Drive 30/40 miles an hour and imagine a large truck pulling in front of you. You slow down quickly to about 10-15 miles an hour. While slowing down you look over your shoulder to see it the lane is clear to go around the truck. You have a nice gap to accelerate into in the next lane and you “punch” the gas to shoot the gap. I will always get a very significant delay while doing it. Please note that you do not need to floor it. Another test is just imaging merging onto traffic.
On several occasions I thought my vehicle would stall. I can create the delay at anytime, however, the severity of it is hard to create. I feel it is a very serious safety issue. I have seen the delay the near two second mark.
Hello experts: I bought a HL 4 Cyl. AWD last week without the towing package.
I visited etrailer.com and saw the wiring set (part number 33425) that allows me to connect the wiring to the tail light (not directly to the battery) and it seems to me that there is no need to get the converter from Toyota dealer. Anyone out there have tried it? Your advice is greatly appreciated.
* Each vehicle specific connector is pre-wired and uses original OEM connectors for water tight protection, a guaranteed fit, and a great look * No cutting or taping * 16 gauge wire * 4-Pole connector includes dust cap * Easy to follow instructions with pictures are included * Each kit includes everything needed to complete a 4-wire flat installation o Kit includes wire, fuse and connectors necessary for power supply hook-up at the battery * Powered converter with circuit protection is included in a weatherproof double-molded design o Circuit Protection guards the tow vehicle and the converter itself from trailer shorts * Max Draw: 8 Amps
Can be used with 5-pole, 6-pole or 7-pole adapters.
Plug-N-Tow™ Wiring Connector plugs in behind each tail light on the Highlander.
For 01-03 Highlander models with the tow package use part # 18245."
I already installed the VIP alarm system and installed a switch (in to the right of the alarm light) to turn off the daytime running light. I have the full shop wiring diagram showing the ECU's.I also do electrical wiring on aircraft avionics.
First of all I would like to wire the fog light on my 2004 Highlander to come on with the parking lights and not just with the headlight light low beams
On the running lights, I have the switch to be the ground for the parking brake. The only problem is that when I turn off the lights it basically tells the running light that the parking brake is applied and the lights won't come on. With the running lights off, every time move the car from a stop I get I chime from the warning system. I get this every time I start from a complete stop. What is another way to get around the ECUs.
I image the ECUs are the same that are behind the glove compartment.
Has anybody installed a Navigation system on his Highlander. I actually want to do so but do not see nay space where it can be installed???? Anybody has any ideas...
Comments
They should have no problem installing the changer, especially since it is made for the car (no special fit kits needed).
Also, the basic HL only has 6 speakers and wonder if they will still works afterward
In PA the terrain is hilly, and the use of the CC is not recommended in such (I don't know for sure if this is written in the manual or not). But my answer is: it sounds like a normal behavior for the modern cruise control. I'm sure somebody will correct me, if my answer is wrong.
FYI for any HL owner with side airbags who plan to remove their front seats for whatever reason, the service manual states the battery cable should be disconnected 90 seconds before disconnecting the harness at the seat to prevent the airbag from accidentally deploying, and safety glasses should be worn during the procedure.
Any one have any thoughts ???
Best solution IMO is to have aftermarket amp and speakers installed. You'll get better quality sound and for a lower price than if you upgraded to Toyota JBL components. Trick is to choose the right components. Review past posts to this board and to the "Highlander Accessories and Modifications" board as this has been discussed in the past; results have been mixed (including in my case); also check out other car audio discussions on the web that may have more knowledgeable people on car audio. General guidelines are to audition the speakers in the stereo store with the type of music you normally listen to to see how they sound to your ear; listen at somewhat loud volume levels as these are the levels you'll be playing them at in the car to be heard over the road noise. My guess is "JBL-quality" speakers will start around $300/pair for the front and $200/pair for the rear, and comparable amp will start around $300, but don't go by price alone; LISTEN before spending a penny!
I was speaking to my brother last night and he just suggested some of the same things. I know what sounds good but not always how to make that happen. I am feeling better about my options now. I just could not understand that I would have to spend another $5000.00 To buy a Limited for the better stereo.
I don't really want to change out the head unit. I like the factory fit and look. I had to change out the one in my 14 year old Celica and I still like the old look better. You are also correct that Toyota will charge an arm and 2 legs for their stuff. They wanted $1200 to replace/repair the old unit. So I spent $250 on a Kenwood including install.
How do I access the old discussions about this topic ??
Landdriver what did you end up doing and were not please with the changes??
dowen
I was happy with the amp I upgraded to, which was an Alpine MRV-F340, but less than happy with the speakers I upgraded to, aftermarket JBL GTOs. They sounded too boomy, which is a complaint that others who upgraded their sound system have expressed, while others still, typically those who bought really good quality speakers, have said that their system sounded great.
I agree with you about the factory head unit. Some of those aftermarket head units have so many glitzy flashing lights and displays that they're totally out of character with Highlander's sedate interior styling.
Let us know how your new sound system sounds!
Also can you tell me what kind of wattage I have now ?? I have looked through the owners manual and found nothing that gives me this kind of info. Also how much wattage should I be trying to get.
I see several people have been using Infinity Kappas speakers. Are they really as good as they say or are you just paying for the name??
You have been such a great help THANKS !!!!
dowen
What I can tell you is that in my previous vehicle [Jeep], I upgraded the stereo with a Pioneer head unit [I think it was around 24 watts]and 4 Infinity speakers. I would not hesitate in recommending the speakers - the sound from them was excellent. The head unit was called a "din and a half", meaning it was a wider unit that fit the wide space in the dash found in Jeeps and some GM models. It performed great, but it's faceplate looked like it came from an amusement park and it would have looked ridiculous in the HL.
I was looking into what you said at an earlier post that you spliced your wires from the harness into the amp. Does that mean that you got an amp with line level inputs?
Unfortunately on non-JBL head units the midrange control is not normally enabled. To access it you will merely need to go through the sequence outlined in the posts. You will need to do this each time you start the car unless if you remember to turn off the radio before turning off the ignition.
Also can you tell me what kind of wattage I have now ?? ... Also how much wattage should I be trying to get.
To my ear in comparing with an aftermarket amp of known power my rough guess is the factory JBL system puts out 15W rms per channel. (I'm not sure but the '04 factory JBL system seems to sound better than the '01 JBL, but its hard for me to be sure as its been a couple of years since I upgraded my '01 JBL -- anyone who still has an '01-'03 JBL notice any difference with the '04 JBL?) For non-JBL factory systems I'm going to guess the power output is less than 10W rms/ch.
In comparing two Alpine amps in the Highlander, one rated at 40W rms/ch and the other at 55W rms/ch, the 55W model sounded much better, so I'd use 50W rms per channel as a starting point (but let your ear be the final judge!) (Also, someone on these boards felt the Alpines were overpriced and preferred the Rockford Fosgates.)
fvp:
I can't add much to your discussion with landdriver as he knows much more about this topic than I.
I just sound like I know more -- this is my first foray into car audio!
wwlccp:
I was looking into what you said at an earlier post that you spliced your wires from the harness into the amp. Does that mean that you got an amp with line level inputs?
Yes, the amp I got has line level inputs (Alpine MRV-F340).
(The factory JBL power amp, which is located in the rear of the vehicle, receives its line-level inputs from the line-level outputs of the JBL head unit, via the harness running from the front of the vehicle to the rear; the speaker-level outputs of the JBL power amp in turn go to the speakers.)
jack69:
If you are looking for the amp locate the rear tray with tire tools/jack storage, pull out the two plastic rivets and lift out the black plastic tray, the amp is underneath on the passanger side.
Sounds like its in the same general vicinity of, but way more accessible than, those in '01s. (In '01s (and probably '02s-'03s) the JBL amp is located behind second-row seat under carpet on passenger side; must remove carpet to access it.)
Thanks,
Mike C.
Does anyone have any thoughts or experience about/with MB Quartz Speakers ??? Was shown some in a show room a couple of days ago. Price seams pretty good and so do most of the reviews on line. The one's I'm looking at are DSE-216's
Thanks
dowen
Like I've recommended in previous posts, don't go just by price or model, but listen to the speakers you're thinking of purchasing with the type of music you typically listen to and let your ears be the final judge.
Let us know.
I may break down and change my head unit to an ALPINE CDA-9825 with JL Audio TR 6.5 speakers with 2 smaller 4 channel amps (mostly for space reason) and 1 10" sub in the back. JL Audio makes a very slim box with a screen that fits very nicely along the back of the back seat (the angle is great) and can be easly unplugged and removed if I need the cargo space. I don't haul much on a daily basis. But if I would need to I want to be able to.
Looking at maybe doing this next week. This shop seams ver reputable and understands who's paying the bill. They weere able to play from each deck to the speakers I was looking at and show me the difference of adding the sub.
Thanks for all your input it has haelped a lot.
dowen
I may break down and change my head unit to an ALPINE CDA-9825 with JL Audio TR 6.5 speakers with 2 smaller 4 channel amps (mostly for space reason) and 1 10" sub in the back. JL Audio makes a very slim box with a screen that fits very nicely along the back of the back seat (the angle is great) and can be easly unplugged and removed if I need the cargo space. I don't haul much on a daily basis. But if I would need to I want to be able to.
Looking at maybe doing this next week. This shop seams ver reputable and understands who's paying the bill. They weere able to play from each deck to the speakers I was looking at and show me the difference of adding the sub.
Thanks for all your input it has haelped a lot.
dowen
I'm planning to use this to hook up my amp to the stereo HU. Will this work and could you suggest how I would wire it? Could you help me out and tell me which wire(color) goes to which on this converter? I'm unsure if this would work or not.
http://www.ic.sunysb.edu/Stu/wichu/oem2instr.pdf
Checked-out the instructions; a couple of questions to clarify your setup:
1. Does your aftermarket amp have only line-level inputs or also speaker-level inputs?
2. Have you decided on a location for the aftermarket amp yet (under the front passenger seat)?
Unfortunately (regardless of whether you opt for a line-level or speaker-level input connection setup (generally a line-level input setup is preferred if the choice exists)), in tracing the harness path through the vehicle, I don't see getting around having to gain access to the factory amp. There are ways of avoiding this (routing a new set of speaker wires from the new amp to the speakers, thus bypassing the factory speaker wiring), but those ways are probably more hassle than accessing the factory amp . However, a far easier way of accessing the factory amp exists than having to dismantle most of the interior panels in the cargo area in order to lift up the carpet as I stated in an earlier post. If you don't mind cutting into the carpet, then all you have to do is remove the right rear seat (after unsnapping the cargo-area carpet), make an H shaped slit in the vertical section of the carpet behind the seat maybe 1 foot (can't remember for sure now precisely where the factory amp is located) away from the right wall to access the amp. Once you replace the seat no one will ever see the incision.
After disconnecting the two connectors from the factory amp and shorting a couple of pins together, all of your connections to the new amp can be made by tapping into the harness running along the right side of the vehicle under the scuff plates, including power connections if you want, as the power lines going to the factory amp are present in this harness, although the wire gauge is thinner than that generally recommended by the aftermarket amp manufacturers. You can get away with this if you don't plan to crank your sound system really high. Otherwise you'll want to run new power and ground wires of the thicker gauge recommended by the manufacturer. One option is to route them under the scuff plates paralleling the existing harness and then either routing through an existing hole in the firewall or drilling a new hole. The disadvantage with this is it requires the removal of some interior trim panels and gaining access behind the dash. The other option is to drill a hole in the floor and route the wires under the vehicle. Perhaps others in this forum who've installed aftermarket amps can offer additional suggestions.
I'll post the exact wire colors and the exact pins that need to be shorted on the connector at the factory amp in a subsequent post when you get closer to doing the install; post 632 is a useful reference on this subject.
I know this is an old thread, but i just got my 2004 HL and you seem to be the only person who has wired one successfully!
A hitch dealer told me they could just splice on an aftermarket harness. On a different forum, however, i was advised that a converter is necessary as well, because trailers use the same lamps for brake and turn signals.
It sounds like you only bought the Toyota harness. What about the converter? Have you gotten the wiring to work without one?
thanks.
Thought I would give you and update. I have just picked up my 04 HL from the stereo shop (yesterday) where they completed the major overhaul of my sound system. Here's is what we did.
Last Saturday 7-24 they installed 1 pair JL Audio TR650-cxi speakers in the front doors. One Alpine amp MRP-240 50Wx4 (360 max. Watt)and one Alpine amp MRP-M350, 350WX1 (700 max. watt) dedicated to run one JL Audio 10" Sub Woofer in the back.
This made an "O MY GOD" MAJOR difference in itself. They were supposed to change out the head unit, but they had received the kit for an H/L Limited. Which I am not. So I went back yesterday 7-31-04 and they installed the new Alpine head unit a CDA-9825. It does look nice as well.
I was reluctant to change out my head unit. I like the look of factory. I wondered if it would really make a noticeable difference. I MUST admit that YES it does!!!! Voice quality is improved.
And let me say anyone that has not added a Sub-Woofer is missing out. I also did not think I needed one. But let me say I LOVE IT !!! It is only a 10" and it is in a thin JL Audio box. It fits so nicely against my 2nd row seat. They left me enough wire that I can use it behind my 3rd row if need be. Or is easily removable if need be. The box takes up so little space, it great. It truly adds such warmth to the sound.
There will be one more up grade to the front speaker and then I will move the TR's to the back doors.
I am sure this is not as involved as some would have but I am truly enjoying the GREAT sound.
All in all I have spent $1254.00 with install. Also maybe not the cheapest but they did a great job !!! NO SCRATCHES !!
Dena Owen
Dena
Dena
Dena
First, the Highlander has a 35mm wheel offset. The Sienna, and most other Toyotas have a 45mm wheel offset. Not a big deal, but not right. Wheel offsets run about $150 per pair.
Then I discovered that no tire manufacturer makes 225/60-17 tire. There is no 17", 60 series tire on the market with a 28.3" (stock Dunlop) diameter. The best I could do was a 225/55-17 Michelin at 26.6". This would give me a 4.4% speedo error or about 6mph at 70.
I decided that between the two problems I'd stick with stock rims and just go with a 16", 60 series tire. A Michelin 235/60-16 has a speedo error of 5.3% and a Continental 235/60-16 has a speedo error of 4.6%. I haven't done this yet because the Dunlops are still in good condition (43,000 miles rotating with the spare every 7,500 miles).
Fortunately, I was able to sell the Sienna rims to a Sienna owner who was very happy to purchase them. Live and learn.
HS
Although I have enjoyed our Highlander for eight months, the delayed acceleration or hesitation has become unbearable. Search the board and you will find others who experience the same problem. I finally took it in to the dealership to see what they can do. I was surprised when they acknowledged that there is a hesitation! However, it is a design issue since other Highlanders do it. Below is what is delineated on my work order.
Concern: Customer states vehicle hesitates on acceleration check and advise.
Cause: Verified concern with customer
Correction: Delay response verified with customer road test. Compared with STK ##### compared the same.
Since there is no way to repair the vehicle, service department gives my Toyotas phone number to start the arbitration process. This took me to a meeting with the district service and parts manager from Toyota. I thought he was very nice and professional. He acknowledges that this problem exists with the Highlander and Solara. Toyota engineers are at the beginning stages of finding a way to rectify the issue. However, he did not know how far along in the process they are in finding a solution. Below is his write up on the work order from him:
Concern: Customer states vehicle has hesitation or delayed acceleration while driving.
Cause: 0
Correction: Had factory rep inspect – see notes
Tech Notes: Test drove vehicle with customer; there is a hesitation while accelerating. Advised that Toyota is aware of complaint. Advised that dealership will complete an MDT report including their feeling.
They will not acknowledge that it is a design defect or a safety issue. Therefore, any manufacture buy back will have to be ordered through arbitration. Today, I applied for arbitration.
I try not to be too materialistic and dwell over things that really have no meaning to my life. However, when you pay over $30k for a vehicle and you have no recourse, it can be upsetting. Anyway, I thought I would post this to help others who may need the info.
My HL is a 2004 V6 AWD with approx. 9k miles on it. The factory rep said it applies to those vehicles with “fly” or “fly wire” acceleration. I cannot recall the exact verbiage he said (I will need to know for arbitration).
Test: Drive 30/40 miles an hour and imagine a large truck pulling in front of you. You slow down quickly to about 10-15 miles an hour. While slowing down you look over your shoulder to see it the lane is clear to go around the truck. You have a nice gap to accelerate into in the next lane and you “punch” the gas to shoot the gap. I will always get a very significant delay while doing it. Please note that you do not need to floor it. Another test is just imaging merging onto traffic.
On several occasions I thought my vehicle would stall. I can create the delay at anytime, however, the severity of it is hard to create. I feel it is a very serious safety issue. I have seen the delay the near two second mark.
Hope this helps.
I bought a HL 4 Cyl. AWD last week without the towing package.
I visited etrailer.com and saw the wiring set (part number 33425) that allows me to connect the wiring to the tail light (not directly to the battery) and it seems to me that there is no need to get the converter from Toyota dealer. Anyone out there have tried it? Your advice is greatly appreciated.
Information from etrailer.com:
Part number 33425: for wiring without tow package http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Sto- re_Code=E&Product_Code=33425&Category_Code=VWH
"Fits Toyota Highlander without the tow package.
* Each vehicle specific connector is pre-wired and uses original OEM connectors for water tight protection, a guaranteed fit, and a great look
* No cutting or taping
* 16 gauge wire
* 4-Pole connector includes dust cap
* Easy to follow instructions with pictures are included
* Each kit includes everything needed to complete a 4-wire flat installation
o Kit includes wire, fuse and connectors necessary for power supply hook-up at the battery
* Powered converter with circuit protection is included in a weatherproof double-molded design
o Circuit Protection guards the tow vehicle and the converter itself from trailer shorts
* Max Draw: 8 Amps
Can be used with 5-pole, 6-pole or 7-pole adapters.
Plug-N-Tow™ Wiring Connector plugs in behind each tail light on the Highlander.
For 01-03 Highlander models with the tow package use part # 18245."
What do you think?
First of all I would like to wire the fog light on my 2004 Highlander to come on with the parking lights and not just with the headlight light low beams
On the running lights, I have the switch to be the ground for the parking brake. The only problem is that when I turn off the lights it basically tells the running light that the parking brake is applied and the lights won't come on. With the running lights off, every time move the car from a stop I get I chime from the warning system. I get this every time I start from a complete stop. What is another way to get around the ECUs.
I image the ECUs are the same that are behind the glove compartment.