Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mitsubishi Eclipse - 2005 and earlier



  • saravsarav Posts: 4
    Hi Loren,

    Your comment was really valuable. I have some questions on them. You say a new 2005 eclipse GT can be bought for around $16500 - I checked and the price (with auto transmission) after discount is $21,682. If you can show me some place to get the 2005 GT for ~ $16K I could use that to bargain on the used 2000 GT. Official Mitsu site puts it at ~$24K.

    I have a friend who has a 1999 Plymoth neon (the highest model that year) and I was driving it for a month or so. We went together to checkout a used 2001 GS ($9900) and he felt it wasn't even as good (in terms of the acceleration) as the Neon. The Eclipse is heavier than the neon and that makes up for the small diff in the HP. Actually the neon might have a higher HP than the 2001 Eclipse GS.

    Btw, I haven't owned a car before and I'm not a racing type of guy either. Just a fresh graduate still acting like a college student :). For some reason I don't like the looks of a Mustang (compared to the Eclipse) and a friend who has a Mustang said the suspensions were horrible. Think the Mustang would be more gas hungry than the Eclipse of comparable HP -- just a guess. Also, my actual plan was to stay within $10K.

    Btw, do you own an Eclipse? If so what's the make, year and the milage on it? I will repeat a question I asked before, How long can I expect this car to run without major problems if I buy it? The 2000 GT car has ABS and Leather seats. So what price do you think I should get the car for? I'm asking for $10K but the dealer claims his price is the lowest I can find on the interner (seems to be true but one never buys at first stated price).

  • m1miatam1miata Posts: 4,556
    No, the $16,500 one is NOT a GT, but a 4 cylinder. Gas is too high in Calif. to consider a car that uses premium gas, I would think, unless you have money to burn on every commute. With a stick, you get more spirit to the drive, but with an automatic, it still may be adequate. The price aforementioned was for a stick, no doubt. For $1Ok, you should be able to get a low mileage Eclipse. See: c=LeftNav#used
    If you are looking for reliability Eclipse is likely to be better than some USA models, and less so than most Japan models, so place it around the realm of average to maybe better than average. I owned a Dodge Stealth which used the 3.0 engine when it burned regular gas. Well it was suppose to, but it worked best on 89 octane.
    The car had a bad manual tranny, but it was also the first car the dealer sold, and people had gone on demo rides and possibly chipped a gear in doing so. The car had more little things go wrong than an average Japan made make of car (Mitsu. made for Dodge). As for the dealer stating he can no go lower, well just wait and see. After sweating it out for a week or so, he or she, may phone back and say it is go - done deal at your price. Stand firm and do not get suckered into a repair warranty plan. Always remember, the dealer sharps have a sharper pencil than you do, so try to do your math and thinking ahead, and stand firm. Otherwise they will win. All parties need to profit from fair deal. They make a much larger margin on used cars, so the DO have room to deal. Kelly Blue Book is on the Internet. Just type in the word Kelly in Firefox and hit enter on the keyboard. If not using Firefox browser, by all means get it - you'll love it!
    Or use Google, type in Kelly, then use the " I'm feeling lucky" in Google. This works for many a site. As for a most reliable commuter car, the Honda and Corolla are awesome. I have a Corolla and the auto transmission is still smooth at 80K miles. The engine is smoother than a new car. I have had good luck with my Miata. Those look good, get up to 30 MPG on the freeway. You can get an automatic with those too. Would need to buy a roll bar, and stay away from SUVs :-)

  • m1miatam1miata Posts: 4,556
    With a new 2006 Eclipse on the way, you can expect the price on used models to lower by this summer noticeably. So take into account a possible extra hit to used car prices coming soon.

  • m1miatam1miata Posts: 4,556
    So " sarav " what is the verdict? If you really want that Eclipse at the dealership, try to get closer to private party price, sub $10K

  • saravsarav Posts: 4
    Hi Loren,

    I was in a hurry to get a car (starting work in a week) and liked the Mitsubishi Eclipse 2000 GT, so got it for $11099+tax. I guess I paid more than it deserves but dunno... guess I'm a bad negotiator :(. Also not many used GT + automatic transmissions available. Kinda consoling myself that the price is okay because the GT is loaded - power driver seat, 4 CD changer, side airbags, rear spoiler, rear wiper, sun roof, etc. Probably most of these are standard in the GT though.

    The main reason I'm posting now is because the SRS light is turning on while driving and then goes off after a while when I'm driving. This keeps repeating now and then. When I read the manual it says that it indicates a problem with the air bag systems :( and I should do a check. This is just the FIRST DAY of owning the car and it's already showing problems :(. Has anyone encountered this problem before?

    Also I thought the v6 was a 6 cylinder engine and learnt it was only a 4 cylinder engine after the deal was through. I can't blame the dealer for this, but I was weighing the price of the car with the thought that the engine was a 6 cylinder one and now I feel cheated :(.

    Hopefully the SRS light problem won't be too expensive to fix and the GT won't give too many problems.

  • m1miatam1miata Posts: 4,556
    A V6 is 6 cylinders, in V shaped configuration. The GT is a V6. If it is an i4, it is another model. Nice engine for a smooth ride, but it takes premium gas. That said, you should be able to use regular and the computer in the car will readjust to it. You just would have less HP as the engine resets to use regular. If it pings, then put 89 in and if it still pings, then go back to premium gas. If it is the air bag light going on, take it back to the dealer. They should fix that. Can't sell you a car with a possible safety defect. It is likely a problem with the light, but have it checked out. If you know someone that is a mechanic, have that person look at car - just a quick once over and get an opinion on the light coming on too. Anyway, brakes and safety bag and such must be in working order before the sale, so take it back and have it fixed at the dealer where bought. And have fun with the new car. V6=GT

  • m1miatam1miata Posts: 4,556
    Here is something I found on the Net:
    Examples of common situations that cause the airbag/SRS light:

    * A loose connector
    * Alarm Installation
    * Stereo Installation
    * Seat removal
    * Seat upgrade
    * Seat belt replacement
    * Steering Wheel removal
    * Steering Wheel upgrade
    * Fuse Removal
    * A corroded connector
    * Unplugged Wiring harness
    * Body Work
    * Engine compartment work

    And when you take the car in, tell them it goes on and
    off while driving and not between turning car on and
    off. Did they show you a Car Fax history? Did you ask them if it has ever been in a wreck? I had a service engine light come on one day. The next day I thought I would have to take it in to the dealer, but it cleared itself. Since this involves the SRS light, do have it checked and try to get to the bottom of it all. Since this is connected to the safety equipment required by law, I assume it has to work to sell the car. Since it is not working the first day, you should contact them ASAP. If they back away from fixing it, contact the government agency and see what they have to say. Maybe they will fix it with a smile and you are on your way - no problem. Hope it goes that way.
  • saravsarav Posts: 4
    Hi Loren,

    Thanks a lot for the info. I googled again and I now see that the v6 is infact a 6 cylinder engine. Feels a lot better.

    I didn't ask for CarFax from the dealer or ask if the car was in a wreck (should probably have asked!), but I ordered the Carfax myself before purchasing the car. Didn't have any kind of wreck. The only noteworthy points were that it was a corporate lease vehicle and the only odometer reading was at 82 miles. But that's ok.

    As for selling the car without safety features, I'm not sure how it holds for used cars. What is the government agency I should contact regarding this? DMV? The bad part is, I will be leaving for CA in less than a week. I'm in OH now.

    Thanks a lot Loren.
  • m1miatam1miata Posts: 4,556
    Take it back to dealer A.S.A.P. and tell them what it is doing and that it needs to be fixed. Contact the local DMV and they can tell you what agency has the rules as to how a cars condition must be at sales time in respect to safety warning lights. The AAA club could help. Here call this number 1-888-327-4236 at the National Auto Safety. They can let you know what condition a car must be in before selling to a customer. Let them know you are in Ohio and that the light came on the same day as purchase. Copy down the name of the person you talked to at the number above. You need to know more about your rights than you do now. I don't have the answers on this, but I think the person on the other end of the phone may. Good luck!

    Loren, in sunny, finally sunny, central coast of california
  • I just bought a 95 Eclipse GS M/T that won't start for nothing. The fuel pump was replaced along with both relays next to the brake cylinder, also the oil pressure switch, the cam position sensor, and the computer were replaced. The ignition switch seems to be working fine. When I turn the key the engine turns, but there's no fuel or spark, unless I ground the relays directly. Also the OBDII scanner gives an ERR code after it links with the computer, which I think is not turning on at all. Someone mentioned the MFI relay, which neither I nor Chilton knows where is located, since they only make an honorary mention of it in the manual. Any help will be greatly appreciated
  • vashvash Posts: 1
    you can get a grill for the front and and put in yourself and it makes a real good look for you car and does lowwer the insurance i believe .
  • m1miatam1miata Posts: 4,556
    Did they trace the source of the SRS light coming on problem?
    Did you call the number provided in post #203? One more thing
    before you did across the country, be sure to check all fluids in
    the car and tires. The dealers and oil shops never seem to get
    it right. Be sure air is right on the mark before leaving for CA.
    Air pressure to use is likely stated in the glove box door or on
    the car door side. Could be on door latch side too - just look.

    :) Loren
  • ktaynorktaynor Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Mitsubishi eclipse and it will not turn over. i replaced the fuel pump, but that did not help. when i test the fuel pump by itself it runs, but when i start the car the fuel pump was not running i have know idea what is wrong PLEASE HELP :cry:
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Check the fuel pump relay. When the fuel pump won't run, the relay or the fuse is the culprit.
  • probably the throttle position sensor
  • tinman4tinman4 Posts: 1
    My sister was just deployed overseas and she left me her 99 Eclipse to care for in her absence. I have started the car at least twice a month for the past five months and drove it for at least 20 minutes each time. Last week, I drove the car to work and had no problems. When I tried to start it to go home, it would only turn over but wouldn't fire. I tested the wiring to the fuel pump. The fuel pump works. The fuse panel has one fuse that tested hot on both leads. I think it was labeled "engine". The problem doesn't appear to be the relay or the fuel pump. Any thoughts?
  • Hey. I also have a 2001 eclipse with a keyless remote but I do not know or have any instructions to get the remote set up to my car? Thanks
  • lhesslhess Posts: 379
    i think those transmitters have to be done at the dealership - that's where I had mine programmed. Also, my 01 spyder did not have a trunk release on the remote.
  • hoodprobhoodprob Posts: 1
    Hello this is my first post on this site, I just bought my 2003 eclipse for about 13000. it had about 36,000 miles on it, Recently I took it to get its frist oil change and they could not open the hood. So now i have to take it to the dealership and they are already assuming no liability for this problem. I think this could be very exspensive and I dont really know what to or what steps I could take to get this resolved...just wonding if any has any ideas?? Thanks
  • m1miatam1miata Posts: 4,556
    Ask to speak to the owner of the car dealership. Politely state your case / possible dilemma which could be resolved to everyone's satisfaction without much money involved. Hope that works.

  • I recently purchased a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS for $6700. And let's just say my "friend" isn't my friend anymore. I've had to fix way too much stuff in my opinion and there seems to be an endless list of more things that need fixing...

    I just finished replacing the timing belt, water pump, and power steering belt and a few other misc. things, which ran upwards of around $850.

    Before I purchased it my friend got the bright idea to put low profiles on it, for whatever reason and I'm now finding out that you have to be really rich when you live in Nortern Indiana to afford low profiles since you have to replace them with on a monthly basis (wonderful potholes :mad: ). Anyways, after replacing all those flats and bent rims, I've spent roughly $500.

    If I keep the car, what should I do? Purchase 16" rims with new tires? That seems to make sense to me (even though I'll be sacrificing how good my car looks with the existing 17" rims that are on it)...that's what a couple local places have recommended.

    Also, my battery went dead one morning and I found out that you have to have the security code to the radio when this happens. Wa-hoooooo... so I figure I'll just go look in the manual. Guess what, I don't have the manual and my friend doesn't know where it is. So I call up the Mitsubishi dealer and they tell me for $50 + whatever else they can charge ya for, they'll give me the code. It's the factory 10 disc cd changer by the way; quite honestly I don't want to pay $50 for something I should already have (and not to mention, its not like the radio is even worth $50) so I'm guessing I should just buy a whole new system, but I'm just too cheap to fork over a couple hundred for a new setup!

    Fine, alright, no security code--as far as the new setup goes, any recommendations for an in-dash cd player?

    Also, when I took my car in to have it detailed, Armor All or something of the sort somehow got inbetween the dash and the gauges in my car, so now it doesn't look all that great when I of course look at my gauges (it looks as if someone blew smoke into the gauges and it just stuck there.) I've been told it would be very costly to remove/replace/correct this problem...however you want to say it. Any thoughts or ideas :confuse: ?

    And as a side note, I got into an accident a few weeks back. It was a hit and run... the guy took off and I eventually lost him, but anyways it totally tore up the bottom part of my driver side door, well not really tore up, it just put a rather large dent in it. Now there is some paint that's beginning to chip off and I can see a small amount of rust developing for whatever reason... I'm guessing to fix this it will cost around $1000 more dollars?

    Lastly, my eclipse has a little over 76,000 miles on it, is there anything else that will be going wrong with it :sick: , and if so, how much will it cost?

    Thanks in advance!
  • m1miatam1miata Posts: 4,556
    It is always a hard decision to hold on to a car that is giving you grief. My Corolla has more miles on her and has not had those problems. That said, I use to figure on American cars needing things like a battery, water pump, thermostat and maybe belts or hoses around 70K miles. It is around that many miles when some services are required. Brakes and all the usual stuff does wear out. Hope the radiator is OK. Has it been flushed and new coolant added? You may have covered most of the normal stuff in small repairs already. As long as the engine and tranny is sound, you may be OK for many more miles. As for the tires, you can go to the Tire Rack on the Internet, order tires and wheels as a package and they will balance them on a Hunter machine for free. You have it dropped shipped to your local dealer and they charge to up them on, which is a few bucks. Ask the dealer what they charge before you do your ordering. Low profile tires do lead to more problems on bad roads. As for the detail job gone bad, have you contacted the owner of the detail shop about this? Talk to the owner personally. At Mitsubishi see if you can talk to an owner there. Why do they charge for this service to get a code back? I have heard of this before, and still have no idea what the justification is on this practice. I guess you could get something new at BestBuy. As for the dent, you turn that in to the insurance company. Was your car moving at the time. Was this in a parking lot? Did you notify the Police dept? Hope you have better luck in the future, as it looks like you are getting the bad luck now in volumes. I owned the first Dodge Stealth sold here on the Central Coast of California and it was not trouble free. I would say the Mitsubishi products are not on the same level as the other Japanese makes, but they do have some character to them. Their sporty cars look cool and are fun to drive. The repairs needed can be anywhere from about the same rate as an American make in the same year, to slightly better than average. Here is another link for info. on your car:
    And of course, Edmund's has loads of info. When you talk to say a Toyota or Honda loyalist, you may get the opinion that the Eclipse is just crap, but don't be swayed too much by that. It is not as bad as stated by some. Every individual car however has the potential of being a lemon, so you just have to keep that in mind too. If ya want to feel better, just look at the woes of many VW owners on their posting site. Oh my! Then you have someone that has not a problem one with their VW, so go figure???
    :shades: Loren
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    The detailer used auto glass cleaner on the gauge cover. This should NOT be used on plexiglass, especially those that have been subjected to years of deterioration from heat. They cloud up immediately when sprayed with these cleaners and are ruined. You can sometimes use auto glass cleaner safely, but only by spraying a small amount on a cloth instead of directly on the glass. But to be safe, I would only use a dry cloth or one dampened with a water/soap mix.

    Go visit a junk yard and see if you can find a gauge cover in good condition. It isn't an easy thing to replace, but you could probably do it yourself. Most cars allow you to open up the gauge cluster area with about 6 screws without tearing into the rest of the dash.
  • Heres the deal on the radio. They charge you 50 bucks to remove the radio to get the serial number. If you do this yourself, and call them with the info, they will give you the code for free. It happens whenever you jumpstart or otherwise disconnect battery cables to the car. Get the code, write it down in a safe place and be done with it.

    Its not that hard to remove the radio, i did it while waiting for my wife to get off work.. in the parking lot :)

    Also, you should learn to do some repairs yourself. Tools arent that hard to use.. go to a junkyard, get a replacement door, unbolt the sucker and have it painted the same color as your car [this is hard and sometimes have to paint whole car so it matches].
  • clipsed97clipsed97 Posts: 2
    How would I go about removing the radio, or rather, is there a site or some material that does a darn good job of explaining it?

    Thanks again!

  • gsx1gsx1 Posts: 1
    Hi Their,

    I was reading through the emails and saw yours. I am having a problem with the idle being erratic, replaced the Idle control valve after reading the CODE that the problem was in the throatle body, this did not take care of the problem. Very interested in knowing how you fixed yours, sounds the same problem. When you say Idle screw, where is the o-ring located ???? This could be the problem I am having.
    Regards GSX1
  • gsxgurlgsxgurl Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Mitsu Eclipse GSX. I have had so many problems with this car it's not funny. For the past two weeks I have not been able to get the car to start. So today we (my dad and I) finally got it to start by tapping on the fuel pump relay switch. Once it started it was fine. I could shut it off and turn back on without a problem.

    BUT THEN i drove for about 3 minutes and when i went to stop a stoplight it died. By the time I got it home it would start for a second and then die. After the motor cooled back down it would start right back up and idle fine. The only way for me to drive it is to turn the idle up. Please Help
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    I would start by replacing the obviously malfunctioning fuel pump relay. If this relay clicks off when its not supposed to, your car will stall since the fuel pump quits running. Relays are very finicky and can work intermittently. If replacing this doesn't fix your problem, then come back and we will try to help you further.
  • junior3783junior3783 Posts: 4
    Does anybody have a car manual for a 95 eclipse? Would really appreciate the help!! :)
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    If you look on the left at the eBay ad - click the last link "view all #### items on eBay" - once you are there type in "mitsubishi eclipse owners manual 1995" in their search. Currently there is one for sale/auction.
Sign In or Register to comment.