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Actually, I think the "pain of restoration and repair" is part of the process of owning older exotics. It's part of the bragging rights.
Yes - If you have some mechanical ability.
Yes - If you have time to work on the car.
Yes - If you understand the safety liability.
NO - If you don't have the skills to do minor repairs / or don't have the finances to have repairs done. (This is all relative - a 350 is cheap to fix, where as a Ferrari GTO my cost a bit more)
Really, the only places engine swaps make sense to me from a cost/benefit standpoint (which implies, for one thing, never put a V8 where only I6's used to reside) is when the result is way, way faster then the original and is way fast period.
Reasonable swaps:
Nissan V6 into Datsun 510 (the 510 guys are manly about car projects generally)
350 into 914 (a bunch of expense, but cool results)
350 into Vega (building a sow's ear purse from a sow's ear)
350 into 240Z (poor man's cobra,exception to I6 rule)
V8 into Jeep (the #1 swap with a bullet)
all of which are pretty well supported from both a kit standpoint and are well traveled ground generally.
Stupid swaps:
V8 into Mercedes (too heavy, clearance issues)
V8 into 911 (ick)
Rotary into anything (heat issues, limited torque)
V8 into Volvo
Although you do see the last one quite a bit (with 'kits' from several manufacturers), I think the sleeper angle isn't really there (they really aren't that quick) and honestly, I think a 1988 to 1993 V8 Mustang is a better car then the Volvo the drivetrain is going into.
Fresh older cars (especially those from the late '60s) start every morning just like a new car. Throw in a smidge of modern stuff, electronic ignition, radials, good quality brake pads, and they'll require no more attention from a mechanic than a late model car for the first 100k miles or so. Some wear parts may go early, but that is more than paid for by the lower outright repair bills for the more complicated later systems.
The watchword is fresh. It drives me crazy to hear people complain about 'unreliable' old cars when they're referring to cars filled with unrestored 30-35 year old systems. Rust issues, gas tanks filled with garbage, original transmissions and rear ends, rotors on their n'th turning, worn out non-drivetrain parts (hinges, steering boxes, seat tracks, etc. etc.) are at fault, not the basic design or materials technology.
Oddly enough, thoroughly gone through, cheaper, older cars cost as much as a new car. Funny thing.
I'd say the biggest shortcoming with the car was brakes. Front 10" shoes would usually last about 10-15000 miles, and the back ones maybe 15-20. So I learned real quickly how to do my own brakes!
As for tuning up, well on cars like this, they recommended something like every 12 months/12,000 miles. I was pretty lax in that department. I remember the points got changed in 1994, around the 280,000 mile mark, and again in late 1996, when it was pushing around 325,000 miles. The next set of points didn't last nearly as long though, needing replacement around 335,000, about 6 months later.
I did the coolant/belts/hoses in '93 and again in late '96. So yes, it's way overdue for another round of that! I also did the spark plugs/wires in '93, and again in late '96, around the same time as the points. Probably about 50-55,000 miles in that interval.
This car quit becoming daily transportation about 4 1/2 years ago, so I've kind of neglected it lately, except for oil changes and lubing the chassis.
I do agree that if you don't know the first thing about cars, an old one is not necessarily a good choice. Unless it's been totally restored, then at some point, something is going to break just from old age. And in general, they will need more maintenance than newer cars, although with improvements in oil, fuel, lubricants, other fluids, rubber, etc, an old car could probably go for longer maintenance intervals than it could have 30 or 40 years ago.
Of course fuel injection and computer controls have made cars much more efficient, but I don't know that they've made them more reliable. Carburetors are relatively crude but I don't remember any chronic problems unless the throttle shaft was worn or the carb was dirty, and I'll bet a carb can tolerate a lot more gunk than fuel injection. It's a lot easier to work on too.
That's kind of what worries me about the long-term ownership of a newer car. The technology has been pushed so far that it doesn't seem like there's much slack. Operating systems either work with incredible efficiency or they fail catastrophically--there's little gray area.
Obviously, your average soccer mom in her 5 ton SUV has NO clue whether the power steering fluid level, brake fluid level, belt condition, etc. etc. is cool. With the death of full service gas stations, hardly anyone even checks oil level or air pressure I'll bet. There's probably a big push at the car builders for monitoring systems for ALL fluid levels and tire pressure.
My twin brother (who got his license two years after me and isn't into cars) NEVER checks anything. I drove one of his cars (a Saab 900 Turbo with like 230k miles) and detected a valve tick--of course, it was like two quarts low of oil. He had never checked it between changings. Duh.
I've seen lots of people go into learned helpless mode when faced with the daunting task of changing a tire. It's kind of sad.
Is the six ok for both town and highway driving??? Thanks for any info that you provide!!!!
The 200 six should be rough but decent around town and pretty much hopeless for getting onto the freeway and passing. Someone just posted in another thread about how gutless their '67 Mustang fastback was with the six. I had plenty of experience both with the six and manual steering in a Falcon I drove for years. Convertibles are inherently more fun than sedans and that should make up for a lot, but the Mustang/Falcon six is a pretty primitive car by today's standards.
Personally I'd put her in a V8 Mustang with power steering and brakes already in place. It'll be a lot more pleasant to drive and she'll have enough power to stay out of trouble but not enough to get into trouble. I'd also prefer to buy a car with the power options already installed by the factory. They knew what they were doing.
One thing though if you got her a nice convertible it may be stolen. So you'd need to put on a shift lock and an alarm, get it appraised and insured.
For your purposes I'd look for one with a stock engine. First, more than 200 horsepower would just get in the way. Second, modified cars are usually run hard and put away wet. Third, aftermarket engine parts aren't always put together with a whole lot of thought or mechanical ability.
For example I drove a '67 Mustang once (a convertible in fact) that had been modified to the point where it was an absolute blast to drive over about 3000 rpm and an absolute bear below that. Big cam, huge Holley, single-plane intake manifold and who knows what else--a real rush but way too much for an everyday driver. Plus the choke didn't work so when the engine was cold raw fuel washed away the oil on the rings on its way down to the crankcase to contaminate the oil. I'll bet that engine's life was brief but exciting.
He's asking $11k.
John
If it doesn't look like it came right out of the box, a very clean one should run about $8,500 (it's not a GS right? A GS might be worth that).
I think the '64-5 Rivi drives almost as well as it looks, which is saying something. Decent predictible handling, quick steering, solid feel, firm but comfortable ride, good power, quiet and very refined--and thirsty of course. I exclude the '63 because I never drove one, plus the Dynaflow they used that year is kind of a question mark to me.
BTW don't go by the Wildcat 445 on the air cleaner housing. That's the torque rating for the standard 401, not the cubic inch displacement. There was also a 425 four barrel (Wildcat 465?) optional on the base Riviera and a dual four barrel 425 standard on the Gran Sport. The Gran Sport will be readily identifiable by its badging and by the huge chrome air cleaner covering two Carter AFBs.
I've always thought early Rivis are very underpriced compared to makes like Chevy and Pontiac and offer a whole lot more, but that's generally true of Buick, Olds and the other "off brands". They just didn't win enough races to get emotion on their side.
LS6 Chevelle - 1 zillion dollars (well, $25k-$40k)
W30 442 - $6k-$16k or so
GS455 Stage 1 - $6k-$20k or so
All about as swoopie doopie as each other with a (usually) 2.5:1 price difference. Kind of ironic given that the non-Chevelles usually cost more when new.
I wonder how the price of one of the more exotic GTOs, say a '70 Judge with Ram Air IV, would compare to the others on your list.
________________
1970 GTO JUDGE RAM AIR IV--44,000 miles all factory original,never touched,painted or wrecked-4spd,3;90 zz paint code{granada gold}runs strong,all phs doc. # match,8 track stereo,custom wheel,hood tach,clock,the only bench seat judge ram IV around..very nice #3 cond,$22,000 or offer.original owner shawn baird------------763-424-8773
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Can't you just hear Paul Revere and the Raider singing the Judge song (well it was a '69 in the ad, but whatever).
Pontiacs are kind of a funny case here, since they didn't build a high-performance 455 (well, till 1973). My gut tells me they are more than 442/GS's and less then Chevelles, I suppose partly by riding on their success in the mid-'60s. I've always thought that 1970-1973 Trans Ams were a smokin' deal from a price/performance standpoint, but I remember thinking they were too gaudy back when they were really cheap.
To tie this whole thing into the thread topic, it strikes me that 442s and GS's make about the best case for driving older cars (assuming they aren't too big for your garage or neighborhood). They are docile, darn quick, handle pretty well, comfy, and don't depreciate. Pretty hard to beat for highway travel and don't get tons worse mileage than an SUV.
Of course, as far as prices go, I live in Chicago, so anything without rust has to be imported here from at least 300 miles away. Draw your own conclusions on that one......
14k,22k,16k,17k,9k,16.5k
All are ASKING prices on what look like really together cars. I think my range is reasonable for grades 2-5 cars. Yes, yes, yes, there is one for more than 20k. Oops, sorry for the inaccuracy.
The point still holds that Chevy's hold a strangely high premium in this corner of the market. (Personally, I think that anybody paying 40-50 thousand dollars for a Chevelle hardtop is a nut).
I don't know why everyone is so hot for Chevelles either. Buicks and Olds are almost always better equipped, have bigger engines and are definitely more rare and interesting.
I think it all depends on whether the LS6 market is a bubble market or not (no, really?). If you were to look at LS6 values for say the last ten years--no, make it fifteen so we can see what they did in a recession--and if they held reasonably steady then maybe there's value there, fueled by enough real buyers with enough real money to keep you from taking a $20k hit overnight.
I guess ideally you're looking for a long-term price curve that's always going up in real dollars, with a few drops along the way but nothing catastrophic, say no loss in value greater than 30%. I don't know if any car can do this but it sure would be an interesting trend to chart. I do that in my business and I imagine you'd almost have to to be an appraiser.
My concern with value would be more with also-rans like the W-30 that might go up sharply in a boom market ("a rising tide raises all ships") but tank when people are getting laid off. The pool of buyers is so much smaller--there's only a relative handful of people who really care about Olds.
The Chevy premium has always been a mystery to me but I think it's largely based on emotion. So many people have owned Chevies, or their family owned Chevies, or they watched Chevies win races. I understand, I learned how to drive on a '66 Impala and over the years I was a serial Impala owner.
What I don't understand is the guy who shows up here just on fire about Chevies and wants to beat you about the head and face with their superiority, and all of that enthusiasm seems based largely on a book they just got for their fifteen birthday. I have pretty good Chevy credentials--three of the six Impalas I've owned were fairly interesting four speeds--but c'mon folks, this isn't your manhood we're talking about, is it?
All I ask is that people be completely rational about cars. Like me. Six Impalas.
I had a 67 Olds Delmont 88 with a 425 Super Rocket(11.25:1) and my friend had a 67 Riviera with a 430. Both were really nice cars. (but that was back in 1983)
The bet I'm making (I'm sort of holding off on looking at muscle cars right now) is that
a. The economy goes over the cliff (especially the stock market wealth effect).
and
b. Prices will recede somewhat on the mass produced cars.
I don't think the convertible E-bodies will ever be cheap, there'll always be 18 or so wealthy guys with temperature controlled garages to snag those. OTOH with, say, 2500 or LS6 Chevelles still on the road, it wouldn't suprise me to see the $50k cars fall to $25k if we see DOW 4000.
BTW, did anyone see (I THINK I didn't imagine this) the story about one of the '70 cuda convertibles showing up at a drug seizure auction. Some marijuana grower bought one of those cars (with cash I'll bet) a few years ago and then got caught. This strikes me as a wonderful use for ill-gotten gains.
While I'm blathering, how about that article (C&D maybe? I'm not sure) about the missing Daytona Coupe (the Phil Spector car). Was that a wild story or what?!
The Riviera appears to have been driven only on mild, partly cloudy Sundays. And parked inside out of the sun the rest of the time.
We will see what happens.
John
The 401 dates back to the first Buick V8 brought out in 1953 as a 322 (Roadmaster and Super) and 264 (Special). The '54-6 Centurys were one of the faster '50s cars with the Special body and the senior 322 engine. I had a '57 Special coupe with 364-2v, standard close ratio three speed and I think 3.64 gears that was fairly quick.
The 401 apparently wasn't changed much from '59-66 and by the end of its run it was down about 20 horsepower compared to the newer engines like the Olds. There's a noticeable difference in power between a 401 and 425 Riviera but not enough to make me hold out for a 425.
The newer Buick V8 didn't really get much notice until the '70 455, especially the Stage I. There was also an ultra-rare Stage II that I think had big port heads.
Hal
They are nimble and VERY fast. Even the 401/325hp model will lay rubber for half a block.
If it has the deluxe interior it's worth more. these have the wood panels that don't hold up very well.
And, that "leather" is vinyl, a very good grade that holds up well. Leather was a very rare option in 63 only, I think.
The 65's had tricky headlight covers that usually don't work. They have micro switches and motors that nobody knows how to repair anymore. As a result, they are usually jammed open.
And, yes, they were available with a butt-kicking 425 in either 340HP or the 360 HP dual 4bbl carb version.
Gas mileage is HORRIBLE!! Even the 401's are lucky to get 10 MPG.
And, they like high octane leaded gas too. They will ping on anything else...sad and one of the reasons I sold mine.
So...think before you buy but these are fantastic cars! Shifty is right about the pricing though!
$1,200??? Seriously?
Shoot. Youre not gonna elive this but I think I may still have 2 of them in the garage back in NJ!
Looong story... but we have 2 spares.
=D
$$ for the Mercury fund.. Cool!
Bill
Sorta off-topic, but have any of you ever seen a certain year old car with parts, that look to be factory, from the year before? Example: on eBay, I saw a 65 Cadillac (with a rust-colored interior) with a definitely pre-65 steering wheel (2 spokes, 65s had three spoke), but colors matched, so probably built that way (why would anyone switch out a steering wheel?). Also, I saw a non-restored 70 Camaro with likely a 69 steering wheel (metal, three spoke, the 'sport' wheel, but non-wood). As far as I know (knew?), 70 Camaros have either the ugly standard 'straight across' steering wheel, or the four-spoke 'H' wheel (as was used in Camaros til 1981).
Maybe I'm being crazy-particular, but I'm wondering: was it common, especially in body-change years (as both cars above are), to use old non-body parts in the new car? Makes sense to, I guess, but I hadn't seen much of it til now.
I wonder if sometimes they just have left-over parts, and they put them on the new body style. Maybe they had too many 1980 parts lying around, so they used them up on some of the early 1981 models.
There's a junkyard about an hour from me that has a 1958 DeSoto in it, with a 1957 bumper/grille. I kinda wonder about that one too, whether it was wrecked at some point, or it came from the factory that way. FWIW, I rear-ended another DeSoto with my '57 once, and I can attest that any hit that would seriously damage that bumper/grille would probably have also damaged the rest of the front of the car. And from what I've seen, in junkyards, the rest of the car will rust out before that bumper/grille, too!
I have seen so many with incorrect parts (especially hubcaps), but that was not from the factory.
I just picked up a 1973 Marquis
Loaded one too.. nice shape, cheap (typical).
Options include:
429-4bbl
Brougham
Rim-Blow steering wheel
Power Windows, Locks,Seats
Dual Bucket (bucket-effect more like) seats
Cruise
Auto Climate Control
AM/FM/8-track
ad nauseum...
I LOVE it, and am well aware that Shifty will be appalled
Just to be a smartaleck its parked next to the XKE in the garage hahahahaha
Bill
Brother had a 73 Civic, it was pretty bad. Honda didn't really get it together until 75 or so.