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The brake light doesn't work on the driver's side only when the headlights are on. I replaced all of the sockets per a mechanic and all was well. Now it is doing it again. I checked the socket and the bulb and both are fine. I am not sure what to do at this point. I can't afford to take the car to the jeep dealership or even get a mechanic to work on it knowing how expensive it will be.
The heater is not working. It started off only on the passenger side, but now it doesn't work at all. I have read other posts talking about the door needing to be replaced. Lots of people are saying to get a heater repair kit and do it myself. Does anyone know how difficult it is to do this? Once again, I can't afford to have a mechanic do it.
The power windows on the driver's side don't work. Every once in a while they will work for a couple of minutes, and then stop again. Then a couple of weeks ago I noticed the front window was down a little bit. It appears the window if off its track because it slips down by itself. I have had to stick something down into the window to keep it from slipping down by itself. Has anyone else had this problem?
If anyone has any suggestions, I would really appreciate it!
I have heard some rumors that you can have a new shaft made with u-joints instead of CV joints, that can also be periodically greased.
If you know anything about this please contact me. I need to replace this before it get's any worse.
Thank You,
Joe
is trans fluid going down with out a spot on the ground then check inside the rad see if going there also see if transfer case is over filled if the seal at the rear of trans goes the fluid can move to the trans fer case over fill it by 2 to 3 quts before coming out the vent or blowing the drive shaft seals
I've had my cherokee for going on 5 years now. 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 4.0 6cyl in it. had a few issues over the years and a couple sound like what you have now. Though I have to be honest , your issue sounds alot like electronics and probably ( unfortunately ) even the Brain ( computer mod ). The Cherokee can be sensitive when it comes to that display and even the engine light can display when she wants new oil. I have had the low coolant light come on simply because the overflow was near empty. It did refuse to start at one time but it turned out to be the locking mechanism throughout the steering column. Whatever the case don't give up on your Cherokee , the vehicle is one of the best I have ever owned and the 4.0 is by far the best engine built in my opinion ( plus it has been around for a long time and all the bugs worked out of it ) - Best of luck with it my friend... take her to the Doc , she will love you for it. John -
1. It sounds like the fan is continuously running and as the engine speeds up the fan speeds us. It sounds sort of like a rumbling... Is this caused by a faulty fan relay? How do I replace and cost?
2. The AC quit working on both sides of the vehicle. It is equipped with the dual climate control system. I have seen where some people have issues with warm air coming out one side and cold on the other, but this doesn't seem to be the same. I can adjust the air warmer, but the AC never gets cold. The code put out does say blend door range too small. Also compressor does come on and hoses do get cold, just no cold air inside.. What’s the repair and cost?
Thanks much!
Doug
I proceeded to take her for a drive and two miles down the road she started running rough and stalled. She wouldnt start again. I went on to check if I have fuel. Fuel pressure gauge went up to 40 and maintained. Can press the shrader valve and gas comes shooting out. It had been a while since I change the fuel filter so I replaced that to make sure I was getting unrestricted gas flow. When I disconnected the filter the line drained itself all the way to the engine. Once the filter was in I cranked it and she wouldnt start but the fuel rail had pressure and gas again. I can press the shrader valve and get several bursts of gas out before the pressure goes down.
Since I have pressure and gas to the rail next thing I checked was the injector wires. I plugged a noid into the connectors and when I crank the engine the noid lights up that they are getting power. So I dont understand if I have spark, gas to the rail, the injectors are connected to the rail, I have power going to the injectors then why am I not starting. I pulled the plugs and they seem to be dry.
I was told it has to be your fuel pump. That it builds pressure and doesnt maintain it. When the pressure gauge is on it reads over 40 and when you stop stays at 40. Doesnt drop past 40. The book says it should read 14 or 15 lbs.I read that if it doesnt start to test the fuel pump take off the air hose on the throttle body and shoot carb cleaner inside. If she starts that way its the fuel pump not having enough pressure. It wouldnt start or flutter when I shot the carb cleaner in.
If it is the fuel pump I have no problem replacing it. I just dont want to replace it if thats not the problem. Rather not spend be 300 on a part I dont need. If it wasnt reading 40lbs at the rail and me seeing how much comes out of the shrader I would believe that the fuel pump is the cause. I dont think all 6 injectors failed at once. I dont think they would fail then run smooth then fail again. But my gut is telling me there has to be a sensor I am overlooking or an electrical problem not the fuel pump. I just dont know what to check or how to test more than I have. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
I did have someone suggest pulling the rail and seeing if the injectors shoot. I am not sure if the rail needs to be grounded to test this but I will be trying that later today.
--you probably have a crack in the foggy lens somewhere , and that moisture in that lens COULD make it fail -or go out early..as when your replacing the bulb,they tell you to NEVER touch the bulb-cause the oils in your skin will make the bulb explode,so i dunno how forgiving it is with water,but it's probly best if you could get it out..
--what i did was pull the entire lens-one spring and it bslips out of the adjusting screws-after you pull the three/four screws and pull the grill..
unplug the bulb,then-CAREFULLY twist the collar,and pull the bulb out,and set it on a clean paper towl..if you do touch the bulb,clean it with some rubbing alcohol-windex,etc..after you get the bulb out,see if you can spot the leak,glue up the crack,use a hair dryer to clear out the moisture,and put it back together..
--then,you will know how easy it really is to replace those headlight bulbs-as compared to the old scool ones where you had that big bulb-rusty screws,and they were always going out!..that's why there werre so many "cyclop's"(one eyed monsters) back then!..it's not that bad,or you could always just get a new one and put that one in?..just like most things,all it takes is-time and attention!!...good luck! :shades:
As to warranty coverage, you should look at the warranty papers that came with your purchase of the CPO to see the exact time interval and the allowable mileage left on the policy. Looks like you are on the outer edges or, over the time and mileage limitations.
Since it appears that you went to the dealer to get extensive repair/maintenance service, perhaps you can get deal on rebuilt or used engine.
Had a neighbor who threw a rod on a 2000 JGC Limited V-8 at around 80,000 miles. Claimed he had the oil changed at 6,000 mile intervals and it was supposed to have been changed just prior to the incident. Examination of the oil revealed that it it had not been changed for a very long time --- it was heavily sludged. It looked like the oil was never changed. Just in case, have the oil looked at to see whether the oil had actually been changed as claimed! He did not have the extended coverage. He ended up selling it to a mechanic for a pittance of its value if it was running.
Another cause may be that the service person drained the oil out of your engine and forgot to fill it with oil and started the engine to check for oil/filter leaks. Dry-firing could throw a rod.
Looks like you have few options for a resolution. In view of the work that you have just put into it, the best option is to put in a used/remanufactured engine and factor the costs out by keeping it for another 100,000 plus miles.
**Edit** After a bit of searching on the internet I found how to get to the OBD system. I did what they said (turn it on turn it off 4 times) and the code was P0138. I googled that and it said O2 Sensor. The car hasn't really been driven (except going to work the last 2 days) in over a month -- could it be the gas? Should I try throwing in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner (a suggestion from a website) and seeing if that solves the problem? Will the light turn off on its own if that's it or will I have to disconnect the battery? How long would I have to drive it to know if that works?
or,is this"rock auto" a store,or boneyard? any help would be GREATLY appreciated..
STOP IT!!
i've got a -98 gcl,with a 5.2-v8,and i run PREMIUM-MARATHON gas,
they put the injector cleaner in at the pump
it starts better in th winter,and don't have injector problems..
it gets 17 mpg-at best,but gets worse when i "cheap out"and try th cheap stuff
with gas at 3-headin for 4 per gal,the twenty cents per diffrence ain't worth it..
-cause u end up spending it on repairs and tuneups..
-u need to "clean it out"..if u can find it-a tank of "turbo blue-at $6-+ per,and take it out for a LONG-HARD drive-includin some good "kicks in th butt"-ta clean it out,after it's good and hot(operating temp),it's cheaper than a new catylitic converter-o2 sensor,muffler,etc..the stuff that "plugs up" when you baby your car..short trips are worse on a car-in the long run-than anything! it's a jeep! treat it like one!..it's like having a race horse,and never letting it run!?!..have fun with it,and it'll probably run better.. :shades:
iand today,well,this will be the third time!-and it ain't even cold yet!
anyone out there found what drains th battery?-maybe what fuse to pull with all the superfulus electrical stuff on this thing,i could live without th trip comp,but would hate to give up th cruise control..
--already disabled th under hood light,(them mercury switches and inclined driveways)
so,any ideas??thanks! :lemon:
DO NOT START CAR WITH AMMETER CONNECTED. CURRENT WILL BLOW IT AND IT MAY CATCH ON FIRE.
wonder if i could just pull th fuse to th body module? th alarm is more a annoyance than a sorely needed thing where i live,plus,it's not like anyones got th hots for a 12 yr old-12 mpg beast!
Good luck
I know the relay is located behind the the Glove box but not sure which one it is since there is no markings telling me. I figure since the relay activates and the dash lights come on etc.. The problem is the relay. Just need to know which one.