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I I did one on my daughters SFit .takes a little more than 15 minutesYou have to remove the tensioner pulley and so forth I would check around on the prices,here in Ny My buddy told me he charges 75 dollars 180 is really alil to muchWhen you here it starting to squeak its timeGo to your dealer for only serious things
Bill
1.) If left in the "shiftronic" mode while slowing from highway speeds it will automatically show a progression of 5th-4th-3rd-1st skipping 2nd as noted.
2.) If accelerating gently from 5-10 MPH it WILL upshift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd etc.although it doesn't hold 2nd gear very long before upshifting to 3rd (confirmed by starting in auto or normal mode and quickly sliding the shift handle over to Shiftronic to view what gear you are currently in) I think the shifts under light acceleration are smooth and quick and easy to miss so you will be in 3rd before you know it. However, mine and I'm thinking yours too, does use 2nd under a near stop...re-accelerate situation.
I read the previous posts here and that seems to be the "only answer". Can anyone help. I think she needs somd kind of .resistor or surpressor???? hooked up somewhere. Please help if possible.
She has the antenna that is in the rear window glass.
I also own a 2001 and have alot of mileage on my car, I have taken to the dealer for repairs, my warranty has also ran out. I think when you take your car in to the dealer for one thing they do something to your car to cause another problem. Right now I am having a problem with the check engine light which keeps coming on :mad:
Unfortunately, it is likely vehicle related problem: too much vehicle electronics noises and they jam certain AM frequencies that you tune to. The source of the noise could be: Electronics Injector noise, ignition noise, fan noise, electrical motor noises,...The fact that you hear more "static" sounds with the vehicle running confirms it: the noise level is higher than the signal level and radio latches on noise instead. AM is very vulnerable to these types of noises by nature of its modulation and its frequency range (near the noise frequencies). In fact, FM is susceptible to them too but may be at lesser degree.
I agree that the Glass antenna module is not the cause of the problem since her AM radio works while engine is off. So replacing either radio or antenna module is useless. So the difference is the absence of noise sources when ignition is off.
Now on the solution:
1. It is best to control noise at the source. Normally, car maker add filter caps (noise suppressor) on noise source like across motor terminals, I/O lines. But you must know which is the noise maker. Do not attempt to filter the antenna since you will reduce the sensitivity of the radio for both AM/FM. Routing noisy cable away from antenna cable is helpful. Sometimes, adding Ground cable between some critical locations underhood could reduce the noise significantly. If other Santa Fe's have the same problem at the same frequencies then it is common design problem. If it is unique on your vehicle only: some electronics module in your vehicle is likely defective
2. Glass antenna is nice for lower wind noise and some other things. But it has two significant drawbacks: directionality for FM reception and susceptible to vehicle electronics noises. That is why on the Hydrid Accord and Civic, Honda engineers are using the mini-whip antenna on the roof vs, their usual rear Glass antenna. The reason is these vehicles are very noisy since they have the big inverter that switches DC-AC for electric motor. Inverter is "Mother" of all noise. So, changing antenna type is helpful if you must have a better AM reception. The best antenna for AM/FM reception is the fender whip antenna that you see by a miliions on Chrysler minivan, Ford F150 or Chevy Silverado. You could do away the Glass antenna with the mini-whip antenna like the 05 Santa Fe. This is a compromise.
3. Does your vehicle has some Aftermarket Electronics (DVD player, Portable Charger for Phone)... hooked up permarnently to the car? PC, or Inverter for PC are also the culprits for making noises that falls on to the AM frequencies. Unhook them to see if that will help. BTW, that is why the airliners have you turn off all electronics during Taking Off or Landing since they worry about Electronics Interference between these things and the aircraft electronics
Good Luck
jt
Just a note to let you know that my sister-in-law is takeing your advice and will pursue either a mini-whip antenna (she seems to think this would be expensive); however, I told her to call bestBuy or an electronic automotive type outlet and get a price and to also print out your suggestion and show it to the Hyundai Service Advisor.
Thankyou for your very informative reply. That's what makes this Edmunds site such a good place to get an exchange of knowledgable info. Again, THANKS.
Nortsr
The vehicle has around 15.7 K miles, and it was purchased in May 2004. I've not had any issues prior to this one, other than a rear dome light that only comes ON around half the time I open the back door.
I'm thinking of getting one of those diagnostic things to check the code, clear it, and then see if it comes back. It should be under warranty. I've done searches in a couple of forums, but haven't been able to come up with much.
Good to post again. It's been a while...
I did just send for the OBDII code reader, but I also have been using a good Colorado brakes outfit called "Brakes Plus" for more than just brake and suspension work on my 1994 Concorde.
The dealer did a "complimentary" oil change and didn't re-install one of the bottom cover bolts. I've been doing the oil changes since then, as it is a thing with me anyway.
I guess the "MIL" the closet thing the Santa Fe has to a Check Engine light, but Hyundai refers to it as a "malfunction indicator" - at least that is the lingo in my 2004 Santa Fe manual.
I can't recall if I mentioned it, but the vehicle just has around 15.5K miles and was purchased 1 yr and 5 months ago.
Mike
I did this "warning light reset" on my 2004 Santa Fe (2.7L, 4WD GLS) by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for abot 30 seconds. The radio stations and settings are maintained, but you'll need to reset the clock on the dash.
The MIL indeed went out after I restarted the Santa Fe. I'll drive it a bit tomorrow and see what happens. I saw at least one other forum post that once his light cleared it stayed that way. Since mine has just around 15.5K miles I'm hoping it was an anomoly.
I also sent for an Actron OBD II code reader so I can check (and clear) the codes myself.
Santa Fe was dragged to the workshop and no one in the work shop seem to have faintest idea about santa fee. I called the dealer and the dealer has sent mechanic. Even this mechanic doen't seem to know the problem. It been almost a week now since I have left my car in the workshop.
This car was purchased 1 yr and 2 months ago...Strange...the sole dealer is taking so long to contact the manufacturers and find out the problem.
the city mpg is around 14, and high way ( ~70-75mile) around 17, with AC off,
is this just normal or problematic? will it increase later after the break in ? thanks
I've had no issues with the vehicle. I'm wondering if it could be a sensor coming on because I am behind on my oil change? I'm taking it in first thing in the morning to my neighborhood car service station for the oil change and will hope that will take care of it.
The manual is less than helpful as far as giving possible reasons for the MIL light.
Don't forget, to clear it to see if it's really a problem simply disconnect the negative battery lead for a little bit. You'll just need to reset your clock.
Unfortunately I've been experiencing more than my share of problem with my Santa Fe. In the past two weeks alone I have had to replace my brakes, the battery, and a part in my exhaust. I've become very disillusioned by Hyundai and was wondering if anyone else was experiencing the same problems.
I took it into my new Colorado dealer. They charged me $33 dollars just to look at it. The back left pads had practically zero mm left, the back right had 4 1/2 mm and the fronts were both within tolerance--6 mm. They said the uneven wear was just a "wear-n-tear" issue--not covered by warranty. The noise up front was from the pads--just the nature of those particular pads. Again, not a warranty item. I could replace them, of course, at my own cost, or live with the horrendous noise until they wore thin and then replace them.
My thinking is that a normal "wear-n-tear" issue should affect brakes evenly--otherwise it's a mechanical issue. Also the noise from "within-tolerance" pads is also a mechanical issue--either poor design,manufacture or product problem.
So much for bumper-to-bumper coverage.
.
So, my suggestion would be that if you just fill your tank and the MIL light comes on and you're not noticing any other probems - just drive a little and burn off some of the gas before you blow $90 to see that there is anything wrong.
The Actron read back:
P0456 EVAP Emission Control Leak Very Small
I double checked that I did the gas cap many clicks when I got gas, but the cap could be back, or there could be a faulty seal as you noted. In any case, it doesn't appear to be very serious. There is code (P0457) for the cap being loose/off, but that looks to be a more extreme case.
I've seen other posts on this forum about the same issue since I did my original post, so I'm wondering how common this condition might actually be. :confuse:
It is easy to read them yourself if you buy a Code Reader. I recently bought the low cost Actron CP9125 "Pocket Scan" mail order for just around $70. The access panel is under the steering wheel and slightly to the left - where the fuses are. You just pull the access door from the bottom to remove it. The connector for the OBD II code reader is to the right. I had to move a cable out of the way a bit to get the Actron connector plugged in.
You then turn your Santa Fe key to ON and press "Read" on the reader. After around 10 secs, the code pops up. It is a standardized code, which is also in a booklet with the reader. You can also erase the code to see if it comes back. It of course comes with instructions.
The transmission issue doesn't sound good. I owned an '82 Honda Accord that started doing that (purchased used) and I needed to have the transmission rebuilt after about a year. It seemed to "slip" more in hot weather as well. Ever since that incident and my long gone Plymouth Satellite having a transmission go many moon ago, I decided to faithfully flush the transmission, etc. every 30K miles and it has worked out well for me.
when it come to a full stop, and you press the gas pedal again. it will not move at the first 1-2 second, and then suddenly move forward, I think it is due to delay of the computer system . Technically, that is because they use bad algorithm to control the "computer system" ,
this is definitely a manufacture drawback, and hope they can make a recall to fix that for all customer, but currently , no good news,
if you can not adapt to it. go to dealer to ask , maybe they can do something.
I posted this same ? on other boards with no reply,seems most people check this board more than others on edmunds.
on it... what is the best course of action to take about this problem..
should i have it fixed at the dealer where i purchased the vechile?; or
go elsewhere? from the sound of things i doubt that i will be able to have
the dealer fix it for free... even though i think they should... was also thinking of
calling hyundai; but it doesn't sound like i will be able to get anywhere there either..... just looking for maybe some answers........ HELP...