Higher than Normal Temp Gauge Reading/Overheat in Cold Weather #01-06-02-001 Higher Than Normal Temperature Gauge Reading or Overheat Condition in Cold Weather (Install Enhanced Thermostat) 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora
1999-2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue
with 3.5 L Engine (VIN H -- RPO LX5)
Condition Some customers may comment that their vehicle displays a higher than normal temperature gauge reading or may overheat in cold weather. This will generally occur while idling or driving slowly in traffic during colder weather, usually less than 0°C (32°F), with the heater control set to maximum heat and fan speed. If all published diagnosis from the appropriate applicable service manual has been performed without success then an enhanced thermostat may need to be installed.
Cause The engine thermostat may not provide adequate coolant flow.
Correction Perform all published diagnostics from the appropriate Service Manual and any repairs that may be indicated. If these have been performed without success, then an enhanced thermostat should be installed. A thermostat with improved coolant flow has been developed for the 3.5 L engine applications listed above. For complete detailed instructions on the proper installation of this thermostat, refer to the appropriate applicable GM Service Manual.
1998 Intrigue blower motor only works on high speed. I have no other speeds in between. I believe that it is the blower motor resistor. Could you tell me if it has one resistor for all speeds or two resistors, one for low speeds and one for high only? Also, I would think that this resistor would be located by/on the blower motor, but could you tell me where to look.
Manual AC uses a resistor network which provides all speeds except high. Automatic climate control uses a blower control module. Either is in the same location, behind the RH side of the instrument panel, in the right side of the heater-A/C module just below and to the left of the blower motor.
The resistor has a 7 wire connector: tan, yellow, purple, light blue, black, and 2 orange
The control module has 3 wires in a 4 wire connector: black, orange, grey/black
You're welcome. Good luck with it. Btw, it's been about -10F here for the last few days. High blower speed is all we use in this neck of the woods! LOL
Well I finally purchased the 2000 Intrigue. The car is in great shape with a couple of minor problems. I mentioined before thea thte fuel guage is not working. The last few times I have been in the vehicle it has been reading full (which it should). But at times, it will drop to empty and the light comes on. I haven't been albe to pinpoint under what conditions it drops to empty. The initial diagnosis is the fuel sending unit but I'm not so sure anymore. BTW, I use the trip odometer to decide when i need gas.
The other minor problem is when the first turn in the morning which is normally when I come out of my parking space, I can feel a short "rubbing" either in the wheel or the steering column. it doesn't do it any other time during driving. Just after the car has been sitting for a while.
other then that it drives great!!! (Knock on wood)
We are finally getting rid of our 1998 Olds Intrigue at 60K miles. GM lost us as customers for all time. In fact, I can't imagine buying any American make car ever again.
Here is a partial list of the things that failed on this car:
- front rotors replaced twice. Not due to wear. - rack and pinion replaced twice. - entire dashboard replaced. - driver's seat cover replaced. - rear window replaced due to faulty antenna. - air circulation motor replaced. - water pump replaced. - serpentine belt tensioner/idle pulley replaced. - passenger grab handle replaced. - both driving/front turn signal sockets replaced. - generator replaced. - engine speed sensor replaced. - glove compartment latch adjusted several times, then replaced. - trunk latch replaced. - rear seat belts replaced (recall?). - ignition switch replaced. - driver door trim has to be pounded back into place about once a month.
We paid for many of these ourselves. This car has stranded my wife and child three times in the past year and a half.
Save your money and heartache and don't buy one of these beasts. What a waste of money!
It is part of the ABS self test and described below:
The EBTCM performs the Initialization test once each ignition cycle when the vehicle speed reaches 6 Km/h (4 mph) and the EBTCM does not see a brake switch input. If the EBTCM sees a brake switch input, the initialization test runs when the vehicle speed reaches 15 Km/h (9 mph). The Initialization sequence cycles each valve solenoid and the pump motor (as well as the necessary relays) to check component operation. If any error is detected, the EBTCM will set a DTC. The Initialization sequence may be heard and felt while it is taking place, and is considered part of normal operation.
I had the same issue with the wiper arm coming loose happen on my '98 Intrigue. It was "fixed" under warranty, but it was never right. I had it back in the shop 3 additional times in 36K and I'd bet anything whoever got that car after I got rid of it back in 2001 has had it fixed since.
Sorry I don't know the details of the repair or a cost estimate since it was always warranty work, but if you have the repair made professionally I'd look for someone who stands behind their work. (as it appears to be a difficult repair to do properly...then again maybe my dealership employed moron mechanics)
I generally enjoy my 2000 Intrigue; however, I hate to bump the speed limiter at approx 112 m.p.h. ( I drive long distances in West Texas, and have frequent opportunities to "bump the limiter). Is there a way to easily disable the speed limiter? I also own a Ford ZX2, and disabling the speed limiter only required clipping one wire.
Hello All! I've owned my 98 Intrigue for five years now, and have had all the usual problems. ISS replaced once, and is now clunking again. Wind noise, water leak, door trim sticking, oil leak, etc. Needless to say, I'll never buy another Olds.
My problem is this; I recently had a brake job done, and they replaced the pads and rotors. Ever since the car pulls to the right, about 1/4 turn of the steering wheel. Seems to get better at higher speeds, but I could be crazy. Anyone else had this problem? I'm thinking maybe brake drag. Just wondering if anyone has had this problem and solved it!
When I replace the rear brakes and rotors on my 98, the instructions said that you only had to remove one of the slide bolts on the caliper and rotate the caliper up to remove the rotor. I wanted to make sure that both slide bolts were greased and free, so, I greased both bolts on each caliper. It turned out that the slide bolts that they told me not to remove were the ones that had some rust on them. I was glad that I decided to check both slide bolts and not go exactly by the instructions.
Maybe, they didn't grease both slide bolts and it is causing the right side to not release completely. Just a thought. Good luck.
Wow I feel lucky. I have a 98 with 145K mi which really hasn't had anything major go wrong outside normal wear and tear. I guess the 2 worst minor things would be oil pan gasket leaking. And the sockets for for day time running lights.
Noticed lately that the driver's door is "in" a little at the bottom - not fitting flush against the bottom of the front fender - and is "out" a little at the diagonally opposite corner.
Is it just a simple matter of loosening a couple of bolts, "finessing" the door into position and tightening the bolts again, or could the hinge pins be shot?
I have to admit that the panel gaps are pretty even throughout the car and the five years I've owned it I've only had this one problem.
At 49000 miles have had or still have a problem other than the ISS and steering rack.
It stalled completely twice while driving down the street. Service engine soon light would flash sometimes while driving. Would start and die about three times. Sometimes when cranked a long time 5 to 10 seconds, the smoke would roll out the exhaust and very bad odor exhaust.
From info learned here on this site I went to my favorite dealer for a code scan, even though the service engine soon light would never lock in.
There were no codes found with the scan tool.
Assuming it to be the CKP, fuel pressure regulator,or ignition switch the mechanic checked the fuel pressure and test drove the vehicle with no problems, naturally.
To shorten this story paid my $72.00 and started to leave. The car started and died. Mechanic then started it and wiggled the switch and got it to die twice.
Paid a total of $362.00 for an ignition switch and labor. $212.00 labor and $135.00 for the Switch plus tax. The original $72.00 labor diagnostic was applied to the final charge as credit.
Also thought that I may have picked up some bad fuel at Wally World, as after fueling there the problem started. Just put in 15.5 Gal. of fuel at Sam's and have the car sitting out in 30 deg F. weather to cool off and see if it starts and runs O.K.. I did appear that cold weather freezing or below was a factor.
I told the dealer I was coming back irate if this does not solve the problem.
The new switch has a different part # but the mechanic said that they are always changing the part number but not the product.
It is a good & fair dealer and I believe I'll get some help finacially if the problem is not fixed.
We had the same problem with our '01 less than a year into ownership. The dealer knew what caused the car to die right away and replaced it. He started up the car at the dealership, wiggled the key and the car died. Haven't had the problem in the 2 years since replacement.
I sent the wife out to test it out and she just came home so I assume it must be OK. I didn't want to be out stranded and run over by an SUV so I sent her. She likes the car as it was her driver before I bought her a 2002 Buick regal. Just to express my concern for safety I listed a complaint with the NHTSA Office of Defects Investigation.
I don't know if Edmunds would let me list the ODI # or not , so I won't list it.
Recently had to jump start my '99 Intrigue -- not sure why because the battery is only six months old. After it started, I decided to have the battery checked -- it's fine. But I lost speedometer, odometer, temp/gas gauges and radio in the process. The tech, at a local oil change shop, changed the fuse for the power windows, but indicated that there was no power to the fuses for the other items. He suggested I take it to the dealer. Any ideas?? Thanks.
Ok, so here is weird one. I get to work yesterday and notice my key fob is totally out and does not work. Thought it was the little battery buried in it. On the way home I hear on the news that 'many' have had thier key fobs stop working today, most all in Henderson NV, where I live BTW. I am not making this up. After I got home tonight, I tried my wife's and it too is not working. All the key fobs for our new Saturn VUE work though. Today same deal, and it is on the news again, but of course the news hacks are clueless as to why or any way to correct this. So.... anyone know what the hell this is about, they mentioned some kind of atmospheric thing maybe (EMI pulse or?). How the hell do I fix it. The car (2000 GL) ran great so no effect on the PCM it seems. Let me know if anyone has a fix or what the dealer may need to do- thanks.
p.s. No yucca mountain radiation leak jokes. That goes for Roswell comments too please.
I have 200o Intrigue GL an I am the seocnd owner. I've noticed the headlights flickering at night. Not all the time but enough to be annoying.
I've seen discussions on this topic here and other GM boards. Has anyone gotten to the bottom of what the probelem is? I've heard it has to do with the alternator but I haven't found a clear answer. Plus the cost of a new alternator is $350 at your local GM parts. Plus another hour to install and another $40 to diagnose the problem. I think you get mey ppoint. Before I drop $500 on this, I want to make srue this will solve the problem.
Seems like this characteristic of the Intrigue is here to stay. We have a 2001 GL and with 4 alternator replacements(under warranty) it still flickers. Doesn't make any difference what accesory equipment is on, but it does seem to happen more frequently on ours when temps are less than 55 degrees. I'm sure the previous owner knew about this and would check to see if he tried to have it fixed. This may be repaired by the Oldsmobile dealer under a "silent warrany" if it hasn't been tried before. Good Luck.
Noticed this morning that the lights in the shift indicators in the console don't work. The traction control button is lit, as are all dash, radio and climate control lights, so I don't think it's a fuse.
Not sure if you saw my post in the other board, however, the solution seems to have stopped my problem. Its a easy thing to try.
One thing i forgot in that post is that i included an extra lock washer. The star type ones (that have several teeth around the perimeter) between the frame and what is there. This way the washer digs through the paint to the frame instead of relying on the bolt threads for contact which tend to rust up. Then coated the thing with grease.
Thanks moonshadow. I thought this was discussed. Just a couple of more questions for you. Is this something that is easy to do or should I have my mechanic take a look at it? It sounds like this is still working for you. I would hate to replace the alternator esp since everything else seems to work just fine.
Next up is the fuel sending unit. It still reads only full or empty. No in between. The dealership is still sayign that I need to replace the fuel pump to a tune of $600. I think I will have my mechanic check it out next month since the inspeciton is due.
Yea, its pretty simple. Its a 8 or 10 mm bolt and its right there behind the bat.
Follow the smaller black wire from the negative connection. I remember that there was something in the way that i just pushed aside.
I have small brash and steel brushes (almost look like toothbrushes) for cleaning smaller bits in smaller places. Clean all washers, terminals and bolt threads.
I still don't know why a pump would bugger up a fuel guage. If the car doesn't act up or hestitate. My experience is that if the sending unit is available seperately, then that is what is needed. Gm has had a problem with the wiper on the sending unit eroding on sunfires and crapaliers and i have replaced some chylsers that had the sending unit wires break.
When we last dicussed this i was going to call a dealer (curiosity)to see what the breakdown/cost was on the trigs but never got around to it. I did see, online, a manual reference once on how to replace the components seperately, so i presume that it is available.
Go figure, maybe they want to replace everything in sight, just in case, so that you don't come back saying it didn't get fixed right the first time or hehe maybe someone wants your pump for some other use. No that would never happen.
I can't figure out the fuel sending unit either. There is no hesitation or any other sign that the fuel pump is going bad. I'm not too keen on dropping $600 for a new fuel pump.
I have a factory installed sunroof on my 2000 Intrigue. It still pops up but it no longers slides open. When I push the button, the glass lowers like it wants to start sliding open then stops. Luckily the glass stays closed and I can return it back to its "neutral" settign with no problem.
I was thinking something might be blocking the glass bu wasn't sure. Anyone have any thoughts?
1998 base model Intrigue - 113,000 miles - The buttons that control where the air goes in the car (up, down, both, etc.) will not stay in. I currently have my wife's bobby pin holding the button in or it turns off. Also, the A/C button tends to go on and off at its leisure. The dealer is asking too much to fix this? Is there an easy way to fix this myself?
The "Check Engine Soon" light on my 98 intrigue GL (143k miles) is on and I was wondering if anyone knew how to reset it? I read somewhere on this board to try disconnecting the battery, but I did disconnet the battery for 20 minutes, and the light came back on immediately when i restarted. (Usually the first time it comes on it happens after I have been running the car for about 5 minutes). Is there any other way?
I'm 99% sure it's an Oxygen sensor. I had a garage reset last time and it staid off for 5 months.
Have a parts chain store such as AutoZone read the stored trouble codes (no charge), and post them. Any other approach is guessing and throwing parts at it.
My wife had one of the original '98 Intrigues with the 3.8 liter engine. Now she has decided that she wants another Intrigue and we have located a 2001 with the 3.5 liter engine. What is the reputation of that engine for reliability (or lack of it). I'm familiar with the 3.8s history but really don't know a thing about the 3.5. Anyone know why Olds wnet to the 3.5 when Buick & Pontiac stayed with the tried and true 3.8?
The 3.5L is a great engine. They had some crank sensor problems on the early ones but fixed them. It's a little slower off the line than the 3.8, but much quicker when passing. It's also smoother than the 3.8 (IMO). It has 20 more horsepower and is a little better on gas. Both engines have made the Wards 10 best list. I've got a '00 Intrigue (3.5L)with 82,000mi on it and have had zero problems with the engine. I also have a '01 Buick Regal with the 3.8L. Both are great but the 3.5 just feels more refined. They killed the 3.5L when they axed Olds. The reason seems to be that it was a 90 degree V6 and couldn't fit alot of applications. Most V6s are 60 degree and take up less space. The 3.5L is basically a Norstar V8 with 2 cylinders cut off (shortstar). The new GM G3.6L uses alot of the tech. from the 3.5L. Hope this helps. You can't go wrong with either engine. Good luck.
I'm told that the 3.5 is as timing belt engine that needs to be replaced from time to time. I am familair with this maintenance issue as my Audis are also built this way.
What is the suggested mileage interval for a timing belt change. Most Audi drivers are doing it at 60,000 miles even though the owner's manual states 75,000.
Has a timing chain not a belt. Also has Platinum spark plugs that go 100,000mi between changes. About all you have to do is change the oil every 3Kmi, change the air filter, and check the coolant level. Tune up every 100,000mi and you're set to go. As I said, a great engine. Also gets about 30 to 32 MPG on a trip on reg. gas. It's the best engine I've ever owned, and that includes a '92 Maxima 3.0L V6. It does take 6 quarts of oil with a filter change. Small price to pay for such a nice motor. If you already own an Intrigue with a 3.8L, think of the 3.5 as the next generation. Gm has pledged to support the 3.5 until 2013. You won't be disappointed if you get one.
That's what I read when they announced that Olds was going bye bye. Don't know if it's true or not but I think they have to, by law, support a discontinued car for 10 years. If the sensors have been a problem for you, I'd get a few just to be safe. There have been reports on this board of having to wait for steering parts for a few weeks at a time. Don't know about engine parts.
We have a 2000 model with only 31,000 miles. Yesterday the warning lights for ABS & Trac came on solid (plus Check Vehicle). As I could almost figure, it turned out to be a rear wheel sensor for which they have to replace the entire hub assy. to the tune of $600. Has anyone heard of this type of failure? I am going to call the Olds customer service line for some consideration due to the low mileage and the unlikelihood that this is a normal "wear & tear" repair.
Follow this procedure to reset the engine oil life monitor:
Turn the ignition to ON; do not start the engine. Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal slowly 3 times within 5 seconds. If the CHANGE OIL indicator flashes, the system is resetting. Turn the ignition to OFF after the indicator has finished flashing, then start the vehicle. If the CHANGE OIL indicator comes back on, the engine oil life monitor has not reset; repeat the procedure.
I also thought "cool" re changing the oil only when the monitor says it's time, but every service guy I have talked to about this thinks otherwise. Maybe they're just being conservative or cautious, but they still like 3000 miles intervals, or in my case since I don't rack up a lot of miles, one suggested every 4 months would be reasonable. Obviously, the kind of driving a person does makes a huge difference in what is best for the engine. Also, some engine designs are more sensitive than others to the need for frequent changes.
I'm of the opinion that engines love clean motor oil, rewarding the owner with a long service life. Oil is cheap, engines aren't.
Based on this, I do change the oil when the monitor warns about an upcoming oil change, but usually have it changed at about 4 to 5000mls, having the monitor warned or not.
Sometimes, the monitor will warn only after 7000mls, and the oil gets mighty dirty by then. I'd rather make Earth less green than having oil passages clogged in the engine... :-)
Comments
Higher than Normal Temp Gauge Reading/Overheat in Cold Weather #01-06-02-001
Higher Than Normal Temperature Gauge Reading or Overheat Condition in Cold Weather (Install Enhanced Thermostat)
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora
1999-2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue
with 3.5 L Engine (VIN H -- RPO LX5)
Condition
Some customers may comment that their vehicle displays a higher than normal temperature gauge reading or may overheat in cold weather. This will generally occur while idling or driving slowly in traffic during colder weather, usually less than 0°C (32°F), with the heater control set to maximum heat and fan speed. If all published diagnosis from the appropriate applicable service manual has been performed without success then an enhanced thermostat may need to be installed.
Cause
The engine thermostat may not provide adequate coolant flow.
Correction
Perform all published diagnostics from the appropriate Service Manual and any repairs that may be indicated. If these have been performed without success, then an enhanced thermostat should be installed. A thermostat with improved coolant flow has been developed for the 3.5 L engine applications listed above. For complete detailed instructions on the proper installation of this thermostat, refer to the appropriate applicable GM Service Manual.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
12570247
Thermostat - 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora with VIN H, RPO LX5
12570248
Thermostat - 1999-2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue with VIN H, RPO LX5
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
J3500
Thermostat, Outlet and/or Gasket Replace
Use Published Labor Time
Thanks again for your past help!!!
The resistor has a 7 wire connector:
tan, yellow, purple, light blue, black, and 2 orange
The control module has 3 wires in a 4 wire connector:
black, orange, grey/black
Again, thank you!!!!
The other minor problem is when the first turn in the morning which is normally when I come out of my parking space, I can feel a short "rubbing" either in the wheel or the steering column. it doesn't do it any other time during driving. Just after the car has been sitting for a while.
other then that it drives great!!! (Knock on wood)
Here is a partial list of the things that failed on this car:
- front rotors replaced twice. Not due to wear.
- rack and pinion replaced twice.
- entire dashboard replaced.
- driver's seat cover replaced.
- rear window replaced due to faulty antenna.
- air circulation motor replaced.
- water pump replaced.
- serpentine belt tensioner/idle pulley replaced.
- passenger grab handle replaced.
- both driving/front turn signal sockets replaced.
- generator replaced.
- engine speed sensor replaced.
- glove compartment latch adjusted several times, then replaced.
- trunk latch replaced.
- rear seat belts replaced (recall?).
- ignition switch replaced.
- driver door trim has to be pounded back into place about once a month.
We paid for many of these ourselves. This car has stranded my wife and child three times in the past year and a half.
Save your money and heartache and don't buy one of these beasts. What a waste of money!
The EBTCM performs the Initialization test once each ignition cycle when the vehicle speed reaches 6 Km/h (4 mph) and the EBTCM does not see a brake switch input. If the EBTCM sees a brake switch input, the initialization test runs when the vehicle speed reaches 15 Km/h (9 mph). The Initialization sequence cycles each valve solenoid and the pump motor (as well as the necessary relays) to check component operation. If any error is detected, the EBTCM will set a DTC. The Initialization sequence may be heard and felt while it is taking place, and is considered part of normal operation.
I also wanted to get a certain amount of use out of it before taking the value hit. I figure I will be lucky to get 4K for it as a trade.
Sorry I don't know the details of the repair or a cost estimate since it was always warranty work, but if you have the repair made professionally I'd look for someone who stands behind their work. (as it appears to be a difficult repair to do properly...then again maybe my dealership employed moron mechanics)
My problem is this; I recently had a brake job done, and they replaced the pads and rotors. Ever since the car pulls to the right, about 1/4 turn of the steering wheel. Seems to get better at higher speeds, but I could be crazy. Anyone else had this problem? I'm thinking maybe brake drag. Just wondering if anyone has had this problem and solved it!
Thanks in advance
Maybe, they didn't grease both slide bolts and it is causing the right side to not release completely. Just a thought. Good luck.
I guess the 2 worst minor things would be oil pan gasket leaking.
And the sockets for for day time running lights.
Is it just a simple matter of loosening a couple of bolts, "finessing" the door into position and tightening the bolts again, or could the hinge pins be shot?
I have to admit that the panel gaps are pretty even throughout the car and the five years I've owned it I've only had this one problem.
Thanks,
Deke
It stalled completely twice while driving down the street. Service engine soon light would flash sometimes while driving. Would start and die about three times. Sometimes when cranked a long time 5 to 10 seconds, the smoke would roll out the exhaust and very bad odor exhaust.
From info learned here on this site I went to my favorite dealer for a code scan, even though the service engine soon light would never lock in.
There were no codes found with the scan tool.
Assuming it to be the CKP, fuel pressure regulator,or ignition switch the mechanic checked the fuel pressure and test drove the vehicle with no problems, naturally.
To shorten this story paid my $72.00 and started to leave. The car started and died. Mechanic then started it and wiggled the switch and got it to die twice.
Paid a total of $362.00 for an ignition switch and labor. $212.00 labor and $135.00 for the Switch plus tax. The original $72.00 labor diagnostic was applied to the final charge as credit.
Also thought that I may have picked up some bad fuel at Wally World, as after fueling there the problem started. Just put in 15.5 Gal. of fuel at Sam's and have the car sitting out in 30 deg F. weather to cool off and see if it starts and runs O.K.. I did appear that cold weather freezing or below was a factor.
I told the dealer I was coming back irate if this does not solve the problem.
The new switch has a different part # but the mechanic said that they are always changing the part number but not the product.
It is a good & fair dealer and I believe I'll get some help finacially if the problem is not fixed.
Just to express my concern for safety I listed a complaint with the NHTSA Office of Defects Investigation.
I don't know if Edmunds would let me list the ODI # or not , so I won't list it.
Today same deal, and it is on the news again, but of course the news hacks are clueless as to why or any way to correct this.
So....
anyone know what the hell this is about, they mentioned some kind of atmospheric thing maybe (EMI pulse or?). How the hell do I fix it. The car (2000 GL) ran great so no effect on the PCM it seems. Let me know if anyone has a fix or what the dealer may need to do- thanks.
p.s. No yucca mountain radiation leak jokes. That goes for Roswell comments too please.
I've seen discussions on this topic here and other GM boards. Has anyone gotten to the bottom of what the probelem is? I've heard it has to do with the alternator but I haven't found a clear answer. Plus the cost of a new alternator is $350 at your local GM parts. Plus another hour to install and another $40 to diagnose the problem. I think you get mey ppoint. Before I drop $500 on this, I want to make srue this will solve the problem.
Any thoughts?
Is it a PC 168?
Thanks in advance,
Javier
http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
Any ideas?
Deke
One thing i forgot in that post is that i included an extra lock washer. The star type ones (that have several teeth around the perimeter) between the frame and what is there. This way the washer digs through the paint to the frame instead of relying on the bolt threads for contact which tend to rust up. Then coated the thing with grease.
Link to another post
moonshadow "Oldsmobile Intrigue" Dec 16, 2003 11:04am
Good luck
Next up is the fuel sending unit. It still reads only full or empty. No in between. The dealership is still sayign that I need to replace the fuel pump to a tune of $600. I think I will have my mechanic check it out next month since the inspeciton is due.
Follow the smaller black wire from the negative connection. I remember that there was something in the way that i just pushed aside.
I have small brash and steel brushes (almost look like toothbrushes) for cleaning smaller bits in smaller places. Clean all washers, terminals and bolt threads.
I still don't know why a pump would bugger up a fuel guage. If the car doesn't act up or hestitate. My experience is that if the sending unit is available seperately, then that is what is needed. Gm has had a problem with the wiper on the sending unit eroding on sunfires and crapaliers and i have replaced some chylsers that had the sending unit wires break.
When we last dicussed this i was going to call a dealer (curiosity)to see what the breakdown/cost was on the trigs but never got around to it. I did see, online, a manual reference once on how to replace the components seperately, so i presume that it is available.
Go figure, maybe they want to replace everything in sight, just in case, so that you don't come back saying it didn't get fixed right the first time or hehe maybe someone wants your pump for some other use. No that would never happen.
Good luck
I can't figure out the fuel sending unit either. There is no hesitation or any other sign that the fuel pump is going bad. I'm not too keen on dropping $600 for a new fuel pump.
I was thinking something might be blocking the glass bu wasn't sure. Anyone have any thoughts?
I'm 99% sure it's an Oxygen sensor. I had a garage reset last time and it staid off for 5 months.
Thanks for any help
Thanks for any and all help.
They killed the 3.5L when they axed Olds. The reason seems to be that it was a 90 degree V6 and couldn't fit alot of applications. Most V6s are 60 degree and take up less space.
The 3.5L is basically a Norstar V8 with 2 cylinders cut off (shortstar). The new GM G3.6L uses alot of the tech. from the 3.5L.
Hope this helps. You can't go wrong with either engine. Good luck.
Thanks for the info.
One more question if you don't mind.
I'm told that the 3.5 is as timing belt engine that needs to be replaced from time to time. I am familair with this maintenance issue as my Audis are also built this way.
What is the suggested mileage interval for a timing belt change. Most Audi drivers are doing it at 60,000 miles even though the owner's manual states 75,000.
Thanks again.
please email at
albo4life69@yahoo.com
THANKS
Turn the ignition to ON; do not start the engine.
Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal slowly 3 times within 5 seconds. If the CHANGE OIL indicator flashes, the system is resetting.
Turn the ignition to OFF after the indicator has finished flashing, then start the vehicle. If the CHANGE OIL indicator comes back on, the engine oil life monitor has not reset; repeat the procedure.
Based on this, I do change the oil when the monitor warns about an upcoming oil change, but usually have it changed at about 4 to 5000mls, having the monitor warned or not.
Sometimes, the monitor will warn only after 7000mls, and the oil gets mighty dirty by then. I'd rather make Earth less green than having oil passages clogged in the engine... :-)