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Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems & Solutions
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Higher than Normal Temp Gauge Reading/Overheat in Cold Weather #01-06-02-001
Higher Than Normal Temperature Gauge Reading or Overheat Condition in Cold Weather (Install Enhanced Thermostat)
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora
1999-2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue
with 3.5 L Engine (VIN H -- RPO LX5)
Condition
Some customers may comment that their vehicle displays a higher than normal temperature gauge reading or may overheat in cold weather. This will generally occur while idling or driving slowly in traffic during colder weather, usually less than 0°C (32°F), with the heater control set to maximum heat and fan speed. If all published diagnosis from the appropriate applicable service manual has been performed without success then an enhanced thermostat may need to be installed.
Cause
The engine thermostat may not provide adequate coolant flow.
Correction
Perform all published diagnostics from the appropriate Service Manual and any repairs that may be indicated. If these have been performed without success, then an enhanced thermostat should be installed. A thermostat with improved coolant flow has been developed for the 3.5 L engine applications listed above. For complete detailed instructions on the proper installation of this thermostat, refer to the appropriate applicable GM Service Manual.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
12570247
Thermostat - 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora with VIN H, RPO LX5
12570248
Thermostat - 1999-2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue with VIN H, RPO LX5
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
J3500
Thermostat, Outlet and/or Gasket Replace
Use Published Labor Time
Thanks again for your past help!!!
The resistor has a 7 wire connector:
tan, yellow, purple, light blue, black, and 2 orange
The control module has 3 wires in a 4 wire connector:
black, orange, grey/black
Again, thank you!!!!
The other minor problem is when the first turn in the morning which is normally when I come out of my parking space, I can feel a short "rubbing" either in the wheel or the steering column. it doesn't do it any other time during driving. Just after the car has been sitting for a while.
other then that it drives great!!! (Knock on wood)
Here is a partial list of the things that failed on this car:
- front rotors replaced twice. Not due to wear.
- rack and pinion replaced twice.
- entire dashboard replaced.
- driver's seat cover replaced.
- rear window replaced due to faulty antenna.
- air circulation motor replaced.
- water pump replaced.
- serpentine belt tensioner/idle pulley replaced.
- passenger grab handle replaced.
- both driving/front turn signal sockets replaced.
- generator replaced.
- engine speed sensor replaced.
- glove compartment latch adjusted several times, then replaced.
- trunk latch replaced.
- rear seat belts replaced (recall?).
- ignition switch replaced.
- driver door trim has to be pounded back into place about once a month.
We paid for many of these ourselves. This car has stranded my wife and child three times in the past year and a half.
Save your money and heartache and don't buy one of these beasts. What a waste of money!
The EBTCM performs the Initialization test once each ignition cycle when the vehicle speed reaches 6 Km/h (4 mph) and the EBTCM does not see a brake switch input. If the EBTCM sees a brake switch input, the initialization test runs when the vehicle speed reaches 15 Km/h (9 mph). The Initialization sequence cycles each valve solenoid and the pump motor (as well as the necessary relays) to check component operation. If any error is detected, the EBTCM will set a DTC. The Initialization sequence may be heard and felt while it is taking place, and is considered part of normal operation.
I also wanted to get a certain amount of use out of it before taking the value hit. I figure I will be lucky to get 4K for it as a trade.
Sorry I don't know the details of the repair or a cost estimate since it was always warranty work, but if you have the repair made professionally I'd look for someone who stands behind their work. (as it appears to be a difficult repair to do properly...then again maybe my dealership employed moron mechanics)
My problem is this; I recently had a brake job done, and they replaced the pads and rotors. Ever since the car pulls to the right, about 1/4 turn of the steering wheel. Seems to get better at higher speeds, but I could be crazy. Anyone else had this problem? I'm thinking maybe brake drag. Just wondering if anyone has had this problem and solved it!
Thanks in advance
Maybe, they didn't grease both slide bolts and it is causing the right side to not release completely. Just a thought. Good luck.
I guess the 2 worst minor things would be oil pan gasket leaking.
And the sockets for for day time running lights.
Is it just a simple matter of loosening a couple of bolts, "finessing" the door into position and tightening the bolts again, or could the hinge pins be shot?
I have to admit that the panel gaps are pretty even throughout the car and the five years I've owned it I've only had this one problem.
Thanks,
Deke
It stalled completely twice while driving down the street. Service engine soon light would flash sometimes while driving. Would start and die about three times. Sometimes when cranked a long time 5 to 10 seconds, the smoke would roll out the exhaust and very bad odor exhaust.
From info learned here on this site I went to my favorite dealer for a code scan, even though the service engine soon light would never lock in.
There were no codes found with the scan tool.
Assuming it to be the CKP, fuel pressure regulator,or ignition switch the mechanic checked the fuel pressure and test drove the vehicle with no problems, naturally.
To shorten this story paid my $72.00 and started to leave. The car started and died. Mechanic then started it and wiggled the switch and got it to die twice.
Paid a total of $362.00 for an ignition switch and labor. $212.00 labor and $135.00 for the Switch plus tax. The original $72.00 labor diagnostic was applied to the final charge as credit.
Also thought that I may have picked up some bad fuel at Wally World, as after fueling there the problem started. Just put in 15.5 Gal. of fuel at Sam's and have the car sitting out in 30 deg F. weather to cool off and see if it starts and runs O.K.. I did appear that cold weather freezing or below was a factor.
I told the dealer I was coming back irate if this does not solve the problem.
The new switch has a different part # but the mechanic said that they are always changing the part number but not the product.
It is a good & fair dealer and I believe I'll get some help finacially if the problem is not fixed.
Just to express my concern for safety I listed a complaint with the NHTSA Office of Defects Investigation.
I don't know if Edmunds would let me list the ODI # or not , so I won't list it.
Today same deal, and it is on the news again, but of course the news hacks are clueless as to why or any way to correct this.
So....
anyone know what the hell this is about, they mentioned some kind of atmospheric thing maybe (EMI pulse or?). How the hell do I fix it. The car (2000 GL) ran great so no effect on the PCM it seems. Let me know if anyone has a fix or what the dealer may need to do- thanks.
p.s. No yucca mountain radiation leak jokes. That goes for Roswell comments too please.
I've seen discussions on this topic here and other GM boards. Has anyone gotten to the bottom of what the probelem is? I've heard it has to do with the alternator but I haven't found a clear answer. Plus the cost of a new alternator is $350 at your local GM parts. Plus another hour to install and another $40 to diagnose the problem. I think you get mey ppoint. Before I drop $500 on this, I want to make srue this will solve the problem.
Any thoughts?
Is it a PC 168?
Thanks in advance,
Javier
http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
Any ideas?
Deke
One thing i forgot in that post is that i included an extra lock washer. The star type ones (that have several teeth around the perimeter) between the frame and what is there. This way the washer digs through the paint to the frame instead of relying on the bolt threads for contact which tend to rust up. Then coated the thing with grease.
Link to another post
moonshadow "Oldsmobile Intrigue" Dec 16, 2003 11:04am
Good luck
Next up is the fuel sending unit. It still reads only full or empty. No in between. The dealership is still sayign that I need to replace the fuel pump to a tune of $600. I think I will have my mechanic check it out next month since the inspeciton is due.
Follow the smaller black wire from the negative connection. I remember that there was something in the way that i just pushed aside.
I have small brash and steel brushes (almost look like toothbrushes) for cleaning smaller bits in smaller places. Clean all washers, terminals and bolt threads.
I still don't know why a pump would bugger up a fuel guage. If the car doesn't act up or hestitate. My experience is that if the sending unit is available seperately, then that is what is needed. Gm has had a problem with the wiper on the sending unit eroding on sunfires and crapaliers and i have replaced some chylsers that had the sending unit wires break.
When we last dicussed this i was going to call a dealer (curiosity)to see what the breakdown/cost was on the trigs but never got around to it. I did see, online, a manual reference once on how to replace the components seperately, so i presume that it is available.
Go figure, maybe they want to replace everything in sight, just in case, so that you don't come back saying it didn't get fixed right the first time or hehe maybe someone wants your pump for some other use. No that would never happen.
Good luck
I can't figure out the fuel sending unit either. There is no hesitation or any other sign that the fuel pump is going bad. I'm not too keen on dropping $600 for a new fuel pump.
I was thinking something might be blocking the glass bu wasn't sure. Anyone have any thoughts?
I'm 99% sure it's an Oxygen sensor. I had a garage reset last time and it staid off for 5 months.
Thanks for any help
Thanks for any and all help.
They killed the 3.5L when they axed Olds. The reason seems to be that it was a 90 degree V6 and couldn't fit alot of applications. Most V6s are 60 degree and take up less space.
The 3.5L is basically a Norstar V8 with 2 cylinders cut off (shortstar). The new GM G3.6L uses alot of the tech. from the 3.5L.
Hope this helps. You can't go wrong with either engine. Good luck.
Thanks for the info.
One more question if you don't mind.
I'm told that the 3.5 is as timing belt engine that needs to be replaced from time to time. I am familair with this maintenance issue as my Audis are also built this way.
What is the suggested mileage interval for a timing belt change. Most Audi drivers are doing it at 60,000 miles even though the owner's manual states 75,000.
Thanks again.
please email at
albo4life69@yahoo.com
THANKS
Turn the ignition to ON; do not start the engine.
Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal slowly 3 times within 5 seconds. If the CHANGE OIL indicator flashes, the system is resetting.
Turn the ignition to OFF after the indicator has finished flashing, then start the vehicle. If the CHANGE OIL indicator comes back on, the engine oil life monitor has not reset; repeat the procedure.
Based on this, I do change the oil when the monitor warns about an upcoming oil change, but usually have it changed at about 4 to 5000mls, having the monitor warned or not.
Sometimes, the monitor will warn only after 7000mls, and the oil gets mighty dirty by then. I'd rather make Earth less green than having oil passages clogged in the engine... :-)