The Passat is a stretched previous generation A4. Also, even though the Passat shares a lot of components with the prev-gen A4, the rear suspension (I believe) is completely different between the two.
I believe there is a lip on the adapter and rubber O-rings included to hold the boot in place. Here is a link to the i-club thread with all of the pertinent information.
when someone says "A4 platform", they don't mean the Audi A4 (I did that on purpose). It means the 4th generation of the "A" platform, which (for the US, I'm listing) are the Golf, GTI (GTI is really a trim model of the Golf), Jetta, New Beetle, and TT.
The Audi A4 is built on the "B" platform. The last generation A4, A6, and Passat are built on the B5 platform.
Took my Rex wagon on its first longer voyage - quarterly trip to the inlaws (Minneapolis to Chicago). Handled like a dream even with bikes up top, two sets of golf clubs and all our luggage (well, mostly my wife's). Mileage was low to mid 20's - going 85 with bikes up top doesn't help.
My 17" P1s with Sumis were also solid. No excessive whine on the concrete freeway sections and not harsh at all - even at 50psi.
Shifter is starting to break in some at 2200 miles...or maybe I'm just learning how to better shift this thing.
Options for reference: -Mirror/Security kit -Short throw shifter -Upgraded spkrs and subwoofer (still not installed - GD dealer's fault) -Tray, net, etc. -Rims and rubber
Only complaint is that the A/C seems a little weak when it gets really hot outside. May look at tinting the glass - not sure how much that would help though.
Why is it that every guy in an Audi Quattro A4/S4/TT/A6 feels compelled to try and race me? I must admit that I "lost" to a souped-up S4. I didn't feel bad though - considering it was banana yellow and I have $20K more in my pocketbook than he does.
Have fun out there,
Sean
PS - Mike and Stephen - I bought you some Altezzas on eBay for early Xmas presents.
I have the MOMO shift knob adapter that's available on the i-club through "Paulie". It works really great! The fit onto the knob is so snug that I didn't even need to use the set screws. The adapter is threaded so it screws right on to the shifter lever, just like the stock knob. The adapter also does have a lip to hold up the boot. The whole thing works splendidly and I'd wholeheartedly recommend it.
I am shopping for WRX wagon and curious what the fair price in Western Washington State would be. I'm looking for a base model with sec system and/or turbo gauge.
Does anyone out there drive in congested traffic on a daily basis? I live in the SF bay and will buy a WRX wagon. My quandary is auto or manual in congested traffic. Does anyone drive a manual on a daily in these conditions? What is your opinion? I leave out the automatic because I know that it is no problem in traffic.
I drive in some heavy traffic every day and I have a wrx wagon with the STi shifter. The clutch is light and the shifter is precise. I have no regrets about having the stick, even in traffic and I came from a V8 powered automatic. I like being able to pick my own ratio. I've never driven an auto wrx so I'm not sure how responsive it is from a rolling start such as you might find in heavy commuting. I think smaller displacement cars are best enjoyed with a stick.
I find the clutch a bit more springy than other cars I came from, but the WRX is no worse than any other manual car in traffic. Only you can decide if you can live with a manual in traffic. I would never give up a manual unless I was physically disabled and couldn't operate the clutch for extended lengths of time.
The clutch is much lighter than some German car clutches- those I wouldn't want to drive daily through traffic. The wrx is fine in traffic, the 1st gear is kinda long, so you may not have to shift out of it in stop and go traffic...
Thanks for manual in traffic input . I think the manual sounds like the way to go and just needed a little encouragement. I also was concerned about the turbo engine and the longevity. Does anyone out there have a WRX with over 100,000 miles on it? How is the engine holding up? This is a dumb question I understand, since the car has not been out for very long, but thought I could get some comments.
Love my new WRX wagon (in the Dang! That Thing Is Blue! color). One thing that is a little disconcerting is that when I rest my hand on the shift lever while driving I can feel it vibrating. I've never had this with other stick shifts I've had (3). Does this indicate a problem with my car or is it "normal"? Other than that I love the car and can't wait to get it out of the break-in period so I can really open it up.
Well, I finally got my black WRX wagon today for $22,600 (excluding tax, of course), with Arm rest, Alarm, Auto-Dim mirror (what I call 'AAA'), floor mats, and cargo bin. I just hope I get lots of fun out of this baby, and many years to cherish later on. Thank you for all your advice. Enjoy you cars!
The solid-linkage design, by design transmits more vibrations than a cable-linkage transmission (which is why people tend to say cable linkages have a rather vague feel). Subaru uses soft rubber shifter bushings to asborb much of the vibrations.
I'm far from an expert but was cautioned many years ago to avoid resting my hand on the shifter...something to do with messing up the transmission. Perhaps some of the long time users and experts could help us here.
Resting your hand on the shifter while driving causes wear on the tranny's synchros. The weight of your arm effectively pulls or pushes on the gearshift lever (depending on its relative position), which puts the synchros under constant stress.
The rod-linkage shifter in my '98 GS-R was always vibrating, and the cable shifter in my Prelude doesn't. A solid linkage provides better shifting performance, but there's only so much of the buzzing that can be eliminated by using soft bushings.
Thanks for the info on shifter vibration. I had heard not to rest a hand there while driving, I just notice the vibration as I'm getting ready to shift. One other question, please. The dealer told me with the turbo engine it is better to let the car run for a minute at your destination to let it cool down a little before shutting it off. This isn't mentioned in the manual. Does that sound like a good idea or is this old school turbo thinking that today's don't really need? Thanks
some folks discussed this a few weeks back. the consensus seems to be if you did a high speed run for any extended period , a short cooling period is probably helpful. someone spoke to SOA and apparently the cooling system of the engine is such that coolant is made to circulate to cool the turbo even when the engine is off (IIRC some sort of bypass circuit with a one way valve or something using the expansion of the coolant when heated to move things) so thats why there is nothing in the manual about needing to have a cool down period like some older turbos.
Can anyone give me an idea of just how much useful space the rear seats offer. I am consider a new wrx wagon as a second car for my family of 5 (newborn, 3yr and 6yr + spouse).
We have a 2000 Ody so we don't need another huge car, but there would be times when I would need to get the 3 kids in the back. It is hard to judge at the dealership since I am so smitten by the car - space becomes secondary.
Any real world experiences would be greatly appreciated.
Well, you can always bring all your car seats to the dealership and see if you can fit them in there. The backseat is equiped with the new isofix seat system, and you can fit two of them back there. Dunno how many seats you will need for all your kids.
I can vouch for fitting two car seats in the back (one for an infant and the other - full size - for a 4 year old. There's not a whole lot of room in between them though. Your oldest would have to be pretty slender and it wouldn't work for long hauls. Doubt you could get 3 car seats back there (that was tough in our Jimmy). Best advice was given above, take them all in to the dealer and try it out. That's not too much to ask for a ~$25,000 decision.
can fit the 11 and 9 yr old and the 5 on a booster in the rear seats, little tighter on leg room than my legacy but not much less width wise - at least they aren't complaining more than usual, plus the 11 yr olds cello fits in the boot! Wife said the cello had to fit or no WRX for me! Measuring it out, it didn't seem like it should fit, took it to the dealer and tried it out, inch or two to spare! Hallelujah!
2 questions: 1) is it a ball-bearing turbo or not, and 2) if someone were to replace it, could one find a turbo that also has the cooling system that the WRX turbo has. Just wonderin'
There are quite a few folks on i-club who have these headlights. What you see there are projector beam headlights, which could be both HID and non-HID, just like reflectors (like in the US-spec WRX) can be both HID and non-HID. BMW/Audi goes for projector-beam HIDs, while Mercedes/Acura/Lexus etc goes for reflector-beam HIDs. Incidentally, the HIDs in the Honda S2000 and the latest Acura NSX are projector beam HIDs, like the Audis/BMWs.
Having said that, the UK has both the non-HID projector beams (non-STi) and also HID projector beams (in the STi). The HIDs are obviously more expensive, but is a direct fit onto our WRXs, even though I am not certain if they are DOT approved. You can find all kinds of WRX headlights in www.vividracing.com, including instructions on installing those.
the cooling system is not built into the turbo, but rather the connections to the turbo, as far as I know. Basically allows the coolant to stay in contact and boil to draw out heat after the engine is shut off.
I would think an aftermarket turbo could be hooked up the same way, but a turbo timer might be a smart preventative measure anyway, if you plan to dramatically increase the horsepower? Try you might find some useful information on i-club about these questions.
Even worse people who drive on the hand side of the road (Right hand drive countries) will have their lighting pattern mirrored from us. This basically means reduced "our passenger side" illumination of the road, signs, & pedestrians, and more glare to oncoming traffic.
The ECE (standards), reduce the overlight (illumination of road signs), and put more on the ground. Many people in the US prefer this setup. Plenty of VW people have done it. Just make sure the lighting meets the continental europe ECE specs.
With the Morettes, an excellent bulb are VisionPLus.
I wonder if these lights would pass inspection, since they are not DOT approved.
Check the following link out, where they have listed all the various lights for the WRX, including the Morettes, the Japanese Market Projector beam STi HID lights ($2399 !!!) etc.
I wonder if projector beams produce $600 more light than the stock, and if HID projector beams produce $1200 more light than stock? That sounds like a boatload of light.
I meant LHD lights. Sorry for that. I meant you should look for lights that are setup for cars who drive on our side of the road! I know a guy who got one form IT cause they drive on our side. Sorry for the mistake.
But I have 2 Hella 4000s w/130w bulbs on my Trooper. On my XT6 I upgraded the sealed beam headlight to Hella H4 80/100w bulbs in Metal/Glass casings using multireflectors. I'm in the process of buying an SVX which takes 9005 and 9006 bulbs. The lowbeams are projector headlights and will shortly be upgraded to Mchoullach(sp?) HID bulbs. I will also be adding some Hella free form driving lights on it as well from http://www.susquehanna.com/susq/index.htm Ken is a great guy.
After almost hitting a deer I just didn't see because the lights in my stock gti (there I go again) were so bad, I was willing to swap them out once a year to have the car pass inspection. Except for the direction problem (blinding the oncoming drivers because they're actually in the walkway) it's worth getting better lights on any car. I don't recommend those blue lights that mercedes puts on their cars now. they don't help illuminate and they just piss off other drivers like me.
I have an appointment Saturday at West Houston Subaru to "discuss" a blue WRX wagon. It has MT, stereo upgrade w/ sub, and alarm. I intend on having them put on a rear diffy protector also. All this for $22,711 American.
Everything a growing boy needs.
Or is it?
What is ya'll's take? (In Texas "ya'll's" is an actual word)
Believe me, I'm not biting at that price either. I intend to see how low I can go.
Comments
Later...AH
I believe there is a lip on the adapter and rubber O-rings included to hold the boot in place. Here is a link to the i-club thread with all of the pertinent information.
http://forums.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=199061
good luck,
Phil
The Audi A4 is built on the "B" platform. The last generation A4, A6, and Passat are built on the B5 platform.
It sometimes sounds confusing
My 17" P1s with Sumis were also solid. No excessive whine on the concrete freeway sections and not harsh at all - even at 50psi.
Shifter is starting to break in some at 2200 miles...or maybe I'm just learning how to better shift this thing.
Options for reference:
-Mirror/Security kit
-Short throw shifter
-Upgraded spkrs and subwoofer (still not installed - GD dealer's fault)
-Tray, net, etc.
-Rims and rubber
Only complaint is that the A/C seems a little weak when it gets really hot outside. May look at tinting the glass - not sure how much that would help though.
Why is it that every guy in an Audi Quattro A4/S4/TT/A6 feels compelled to try and race me? I must admit that I "lost" to a souped-up S4. I didn't feel bad though - considering it was banana yellow and I have $20K more in my pocketbook than he does.
Have fun out there,
Sean
PS - Mike and Stephen - I bought you some Altezzas on eBay for early Xmas presents.
-mike
Stephen
Thanks,
Mark
-Dennis
Maybe people in other markets have already gotten there.....hopefully we'll hear from them.
I do believe you'll find the date on the drive side door way, at the base of the 'B' pillar.
-Dave
Palpullero
The rod-linkage shifter in my '98 GS-R was always vibrating, and the cable shifter in my Prelude doesn't. A solid linkage provides better shifting performance, but there's only so much of the buzzing that can be eliminated by using soft bushings.
Basically you're preventing the motor oil from coking in the bearings, which will case premature turbo wear.
We have a 2000 Ody so we don't need another huge car, but there would be times when I would need to get the 3 kids in the back. It is hard to judge at the dealership since I am so smitten by the car - space becomes secondary.
Any real world experiences would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
jmg
The backseat is equiped with the new isofix seat system, and you can fit two of them back there. Dunno how many seats you will need for all your kids.
Dave
http://www.mastrowrx.com/styling.htm
Didn't know if they were the true high intensity type or just lookalikes.
Having said that, the UK has both the non-HID projector beams (non-STi) and also HID projector beams (in the STi). The HIDs are obviously more expensive, but is a direct fit onto our WRXs, even though I am not certain if they are DOT approved. You can find all kinds of WRX headlights in www.vividracing.com, including instructions on installing those.
Later...AH
I would think an aftermarket turbo could be hooked up the same way, but a turbo timer might be a smart preventative measure anyway, if you plan to dramatically increase the horsepower? Try you might find some useful information on i-club about these questions.
-juice
Even worse people who drive on the hand side of the road (Right hand drive countries) will have their lighting pattern mirrored from us. This basically means reduced "our passenger side" illumination of the road, signs, & pedestrians, and more glare to oncoming traffic.
The ECE (standards), reduce the overlight (illumination of road signs), and put more on the ground. Many people in the US prefer this setup. Plenty of VW people have done it. Just make sure the lighting meets the continental europe ECE specs.
With the Morettes, an excellent bulb are VisionPLus.
-mike
Check the following link out, where they have listed all the various lights for the WRX, including the Morettes, the Japanese Market Projector beam STi HID lights ($2399 !!!) etc.
http://www.vividracing.com/prod_extlight.php?vo=4
Later...AH
What's the price on your life?
-mike
-mike
-mike
-mike
Except for the direction problem (blinding the oncoming drivers because they're actually in the walkway) it's worth getting better lights on any car. I don't recommend those blue lights that mercedes puts on their cars now. they don't help illuminate and they just piss off other drivers like me.
If you want to put in HID bulbs w/the ballast and igniters around $600.
-mike
Later...AH
Everything a growing boy needs.
Or is it?
What is ya'll's take? (In Texas "ya'll's" is an actual word)
Believe me, I'm not biting at that price either. I intend to see how low I can go.
Thanks in advance,
Seth