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Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon
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someone also just told me that i need to get the tires balanced again after a patch? they just patched it and threw it back on...is that a problem?
are you asking for suggestions in the OE 205/55-16 size?
~c
To recap: I had a flat/puncture which I was able to have patched. But I have been planning on getting new tires somewhat shortly as they were not in the best shape when we bought the car 10000 miles ago. I checked out a bunch of tires on tirerack.com and the Yokohama's seemed like an ok choice but some people REALLY don't like them. I'm just wondering if there's any other somewhat affordable options for the OE size. Thanks.
-mike
Edit: I should add that they are summer-only tires.
JW
I will probably buy another set of these again when the time comes.
The T1/S are great tires, but I think are a little more expensive.
JB
-juice
- There is your problem right there! You are comparing a BMW clutch with a Subaru clutch. Two different animals!
BMW's clutches have had a reputation of being very finicky. There is a small amount of travel where the clutch will initiate and catch, though the actual travel to start the clutch to catch is pretty long in Bimmers. This has commonly been reffered to as the "on/off switch" feel.
Subaru's clutches are not nearly as finnicky and usually have a fairly long range for the clutch to catch. As a result, you do not have to press the pedal that far down for the clutch to catch. This is actually ideal, especially for quick shifting.
they do tend to engage very low, usually 1.5" to 2" from the floor. once you're used to it there's nothing weird about it.
now, tell us what you thought about the torque delivery, throttle response, and total HP (felt) compared to your WRX.
~c
Which ac is better the 2004 WRX or the 2005 WRX climate control? People have complained that the 2004 system was not strong enough to cool the cabin in warmer climates.
Thanks
Khyle
if the car is all black, of course you'll have cooling problems in Arizona, Texas, Florida, etc. that's not a Subaru problem by any means!
~c
My 04 WRX cools pretty well in 100+ degree heat, at least as well as my other cars have in the same conditions. Given the amount of complaints generated by Subaru's full auto climate controls, I'd probably opt for the old manual controls were I given the choice.
Brian
Is it possible to convert the normal wrx headlight on a wrx 2004 or 2005 to a wrx sti hid headlight system. Also how much do you think it would cost. I am looking for better night vision.
Thanks
Khyle
Yes, buy the STi unit and plop it in + the necessary wirings.
...how much do you think it would cost.
My guesstimate, ~$2k
I am looking for better night vision.
Pick up the Hella Micro DE Xenon for ~$700 instead.
-Dave
I believe the recommended change interval on the timing belt is around 100,000 miles. I know that I'm going to have to change it once during my ownership, and I know I'm not going to keep the car for more than 190,000 miles, so I'll probably have it done soon when I take it in for some long overdue maintenance. So far the only maintenance I've done is oil changes and air filter changes.
The one used in the 2003-2004 Forester was nicknamed HAL for its obtuse operation.
-juice
The big difference between it and the one in the WRX is location, location, location. In the Forester, it's to the right of the steering column. In the WRX/STi, it's in the center of the HVAC console.
I never had a problem with cooling in my '03 WRX or the '04 FXT.
-Dennis
It's best not to compare torque or acceleration. The cars are night and day. The BMW six has excellent torque at all rpms. The word that comes to mind when describing the acceleration is "violent". This Roadster is the most dangerous car I've driven. Ridiculous power + car that doesn't like the smallest of bumps = instant trouble in the wrong hands. I'll never forget this car but it's not one I would choose to own... too scary. I like traction too much.
Yes, my WRX felt like another car after two weeks with the BMW. I'm trying to forget about the torque, clutch, shifter, acceleration, killer exhaust note and heavy duty hardware construction. I still love my WRX but man, I sure could use some more low end torque.
~Colin
What is the best service center in norther nj for cost and knowledge, town motor, liberty subaru,lynne's subaru, ramsey subaru, bill kolb jr subaru , etc
Thanks
Khyle
-Dennis
-mike
Obviously you know only what you're used to, but does anybody else notice that in the summer when it's real hot and humid, when the compressor shuts off (not recirculating) you get blasted with warm wet air until the compressor goes on again.
I find the A/C does a nice job but when it shuts off (Which I expect it to do) it gets no benifet from the existing pressure in the system. apparently. I dunno. I found the difference striking from any other car I've ever driven in heat.
~c
Strengths like windows that roll down...
- Interesting, because I have seen rust on the left front and rear disks, and just assumed this was surface rust. The car seems to break fine though.
BTW, have also seen rust on the disks of either an '04 or '05 Lexus ES330.
Strengths like windows that roll down...
What are you talking about?
My SVX was actually never auto-xed, however I did take it to Limerock and Jefferson Circuit Road Race courses SEVERAL times and Rolled SEVERAL MCoupes at each event since we used to do a lot of track days with BMWCCA.
As for windows rolling down, not sure what you are talking about but all 4 of my windows roll down w/o an issue.
-mike
Has anyone driven both the Wrx wagon and the aero Saab 92-x ? does the 92-x have more body roll? I test drove an Audi a4 and you can't feel the awd like in the Subaru. in the Subaru I felt the road when I took a turn I could feel the grip. With the Audi I new that it was gripping the road but the ride was softer the feel of the grip was muted.
Thanks
Khyle
I think the Saab has a little more insulation, but I'm not sure if the springs are any softer or not. Should be pretty similar.
-juice
The thing about their being rust on the disc surface is bad. If you drive the car at all and apply the brakes, the pads will scrape off the rust. You should never have rust on your discs after driving anywhere. Mine's been like this for weeks now.
So I thought I'd test it out before I brought it in. Lifted the rear two wheels up and turn one wheel, the other spins in the opposite direction. As expected, fine. Apply the emergency brake cable. Now it gets interesting. The wheels still move. They only move the amount of play in the tranny, but they move. If the rear brakes were applied by the hand brake, they shouldn't move at all, as on all other cars I've ever owned. So I look under the car, and what don't I see? Brake cables going to the rear calipers.
Well silly silly me. So now I'm guessing that the emergency brake is wired to the transmission, which is an interesting and neat idea. (I oft complained how e-brake on the rear wheels would be a bad idea on an awd car, and in fact I guess I was right because they don't do it. I just never looked before.)
So can anybody with some non-empiracle knowledge verify that for me?
Now my problem is finding somebody with a foot to step on the brake while I try and turn it because I don't see any other way of finding out if the caliper is actually working. (the downside of living alone) Ideas?
Okay, So I couldn't post this yesterday, I borrowed somebodys foot. Having them step on the brake I can no longer turn the wheel, so it seems the caliper is working. It looks like there's still brake pad left, but I'll have to take the wheel off to get a better look.
Why am I having so much grief from the brakes on this car. I am NOT hard on them.
DaveM
You can get the rotors coated if you hate the rust, but it is normal.
Go to a junk yard, check out cars that have been sitting for months - every single rotor will be covered with rust.
-juice
thanks.
It's kind of hard to reach, so if you're not familiar let a shop do it.
-juice
- When I brought my car in for the 30K mile maintenance at the dealer, I noticed that there were no charges for spark plugs or service of the spark plugs. When I asked, the dealer stated that the WRX is every 60K miles, while the RS is every 30K miles.
I'd do half those intervals on both types, so copper every 15k-20k and platinum (or iridium) every 30k.
~Colin
I would like to know what are the best headlights for night vision? The sti come with hid lights but I don't think that they are xenons. I am looking for a good set of xenon lights for performance and durability for a 2005-05 wrx. Also how good are the sti hid lights?
Thanks
Khyle
it would be quite expensive to retrofit the lights onto a 04+ standard WRX but you can purchase HID driving lights for considerably less-- be sure to aim them properly, though.
~c
-juice
Hella DE Xenon
Never seem to get myself to remember to get pics of how much light they put out on the street, but here it is on the car.
The light it puts out is whitish with a dash of yellow hue. Too white or bluish don't do too well for me in the rain, the yellow of the halogen does better.
Visibility, from eyeball gauge, ~300ft and range of light cast IIRC from Hellas' chart is 300m
-Dave
btw that's a pretty narrow mount on those. why didn't you mount them at the edges of the grill or lower, say to the far sides of where your plate is?
~c
Live and learn. I had a great improvement in night vision for a few days, but soon fried my headlight wiring. The wires were cooked by the added power, the female end of the plug/bulb connection burned and melted, and both bulbs blew.
Not long afterward, by coincidence (or not), my ignition failed and I had to have the black box replaced. Very pricey. I suspect the misadventure with the HID bulbs damaged the ignition chip.
Make sure your alternator and wiring can handle the load from the HIDs. Check the rating of the relevant fuses and completely replace the lighting relay with heavy duty wiring and connections. Also check the ground strap connection for corrosion. This is often a weak link in the electrical system.
Better yet, get an experienced electrical/ignition specialist to test the electrical system and do the install. Your regular dealer/wrench turner may not know enough to do the job right. As I discovered, the consequences of a bad install - or a stupid DIY job - can be serious.
this sounds like a PIAA 100w superwhite experience in fact.
HIDs do not have a reflector like a tradition headlamp and they utilize a 40,000 volt ballast. without the ballast, you definitely do not have an HID. aftermarket HID light kits will come with a ballast and instructions to properly wire them in-- it can be done safely. I should know, I have a 1,000 watt stereo and no problems. (btw-- my stock alternator can drive the HIDs, air conditioning and the stereo with no voltage sag. wow.)
~Colin
btw that's a pretty narrow mount on those. why didn't you mount them at the edges of the grill or lower, say to the far sides of where your plate is?
Doh... knew I forgot something.
The unit cost about $700 shipped.
Ya, the mount is pretty narrow. It's somewhat behind the grill with a section of the grill cutted out for the lens to protrude. There isn't much play in room to go wider unless I had had a STi grill then. Anyway, narrow as it is it still lights up four lanes wide.
I had thought about mounting the lights lower, but was just toooooo plain lazy to remove the bumper to drill the holes to it and then the bumper frame to get a secure mount... but the grill cutting and fitting might have been the more time consuming route
-Dave
~c