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Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon
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Driving light
The saturation of lumination isn't as concentrated as the beam cast ahead but enough to notice what's there.
-Dave
-juice
Still cheaper than the OEM units that's ~$1,600
and PIAA which wants $1,200 for theirs.
It's the second car, but not the same unit. The first is now on paisan's SVX. I had thought of going with the Comet on my next car [the WRX] so I sold it to paisan. As it turns out, the Comet won't fit beneath the bumper. Could mount it on top of the bumper, but I didn't want the Rally look... so it's back to the DE Xenon. Had I known, ya, it's cheaper.
-Dave
kcram
Host - Wagons
hypov Nov 17, 2004 4:14pm
OK, I take back the four lanes wide beam cast.
Forgot that I'm driving with the OEM headlamps on too, which provided my eyeball the illusion
-Dave
-juice
-Dave
DE Xenon [OEM headlights off]
-Dave
The OE lights seem to light up only about a block, though they are aimed wider and lower.
For me that's overkill. Of course I rarely go more than 75 or so.
-juice
~c
-Brian
if you point them outwards and up they'll be ;-)
I think they can be converted to fogs by switching the lense.
-Dave
Except on my right rear wheel.
Didn't know that about the drum brake, although I lifted the car up and applied the emergency brake and was able to turn the wheel. curious, will require more playing. Anyway, bringing it to the dealer monday, they say if the caliper or floater is frozen, it'll be warantee.
I'll let you know since I'm sure you're all rivoted by my brake problems. :-)
Thanks
Khyle
bk
Saab 9-2x gets it.
WRX should have it, it's right off the shelf!
-juice
Brian
-juice
-juice
What is a good price for an extended warranty gold plus plan on a wrx for 7yrs and 100,00 miles with a zero deductable. Also i live in north New Jersey.
Thanks
Khyle
Brian
Anyway, because of this I'm starting to consider either Vishnu's Stage Sub-Zero or Stage Zero. The Sub-Zero basically consists of only a remapped ECU, while the Stage Zero adds a Main Power Pulley and 321 Up-Pipe kit. So the reason for my post is to ask if any of you out there has had any experience w/ either of these two stages. Basically I want a reasonable gain in power and torque without unreasonably compromising reliability. I know that any time you do these things there's always a risk on the reliability to some degree, but wanted to know if it's still a fairly safe gamble. Any input would be truly appreciated.
Thanks!
JB
suspension and brakes thereafter.
Vishnu's outfit is pretty reputable over @ Nabisco and I'm sure you can harvest more info there. You should definitely also check with SPD <www.spdusa.com>.
-Dave
p/s: most of the packaged remaps seem to gain on hp and torque in the upper 5k rpms which I personally don't live up there to justify the $$$. There are tuners that could do a remap according to what you look for, and I believe SPD is equipped and capable of such task.
JB
Save your pennies, don't put a cent more into your WRX, and upgrade to an STi in a few years. Problem solved.
~Colin
drives an Evo with only carfi gear done to it...
I'm not trying to get my WRX to be as fast as an EVO. I was just interested in getting more performance out of the car, but at the same time not compromise the reliability that much. I don't think I'll be upgrading to an STi anytime soon. I held on to my last Subaru for 10 years.
JB
I just don't see it making a large difference. If they got a little bit of benefit along with better gas mileage then maybe that would be a good deal. --yes better gas mileage, stock turbo cars are usually tuned crazy rich.
~Colin
check with Mike @ SPD, since most of his tunings are "California". Maybe he can direct you to someone with a stage Zero equiv.
-Dave
but I was more referring to finding someone through, ah, the web.
~c
Colin, I wanted to get people's opinions first who might have experience w/ this rather than asking Vishnu directly. Of course Vishnu will be biased in saying you'll gain a lot and reliability will not be compromised at all since they are selling the product.
Anyway, I'll try to find someone locally who have done the reflash and see what they think.
JB
~c
-Dave
I brought it to the local dealer (yay rushneck honda) pointing out that the RR caliper didn't seem to be scraping the rust off the disc.
I come back at the end of the day, and they tell me the pads were pitted and rotors warped and scored.
And they replaced pads and rotors on both rears. For free. Warantee.
I certainly was happy, I wasn't expecting that at all and apparently the calipers are fine, once again showing how bad I am at diagnosing problems. I'm just a bolt on guy.
The good news is that I've got new rear brakes, although had Iknown they were apt to replace brakes and rotors underwarantee, I would have brough the car in when the fronts went bad.
Although I'm glad I did the fronts myself, because now I've got the same crap parts on the rear, just new ones, so in another 20K I'll have to replace them again, whereas the stuff Ibought for the front, I'm promised is much better than stock.
THe saga ends here for a nother two years anyway.
I checked, and the resale on my 2002 wrx wagon is all of 14-16. IT's just too painful a loss to sell, but oh how I'd love a bmw 325i (that I just got to go for a long drive in california with last week)
Ladnek
Does anyone know the source of the narrower track on the wagon? It is about an inch narrower than the sedan front and rear. Is it simply a difference in wheel offset, or is there some other suspension component that is different between the sedan and the wagon.
Are there any other suspension differences between the sedan and wagon? I think that the wagon has a narrower (less stiff) rear sway bar.
Thanks.
It's 100% transferrable between cars instantly.
It's a little mod called driver training. Get out to an HPDE and learn to drive your car faster. You'll be able to out drive people with lots of "mods" to their cars.
If you must... Tires, suspension, brakes, then power.
-mike
PS: I own a mod-shop and even I think driver training is more important.
The std. wheel is 16x6.5, right?
Happy New Year!
JW
The Std wheel is 16x6.5, pre-WRX the Rs had 16x7 wheels that actually fit over the OEM 4-piston Calipers. We've actually found a set of 4-pot calipers that fit under the OEM wheels and use the subaru 4-pot pads.
-mike
Are the BBS wheels 8" wide (like the current upgrade option)," do you know?
I'm wanting to stay SCCA autoX stock but use the widest wheel I can.
OT, I guess: where is your store? Anywhere near New England?
Thanks, JW
As to WRX (not STi) wheels, there is the 7" wide BBS wheel that Mike referred to. There is also a much less expensive non-BBS 17x7 wheel also available. The advantage of the BBS wheels is that they are forged. The disadvantage is that they are very expensive.
Bob
seeing as how you have a 911, I suspect you can probably afford the BBS optional wheels. I wouldn't buy them, they are a poor value. If you want a forged 17" rim for a regular WRX, there are many better aftermarket options that cost considerably less and give up nothing in strength or weight. in my opinion the only thing the factory-option BBS wheels had going for them was style, and that's totally subjective of course.
just my 2 cents-
~Colin
-Dennis
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-mike
get nice wheels and use the OE ones for autocross. put on a huge front swaybar, exhaust and call it a day.
~c