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Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon
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Tires...better tires in the same size...you can do this when the originals wear out. If you want to upgrade to a bigger tire, some folks are putting 225/50's on the stock wheel. I went to a 215/45/17 but found the sacrifice in comfort/noise was a little more than I wanted. I am now at 225/50/16's on 16x7 rims (16x7.5 is ideal). Actually rides better than stock.
Rear swaybar to a 20mm and/or a more aggressive alignment (keep toe at zero and no wear issues) will make the wagon turn in sharper but watch trail oversteer. Some have backed off their adjustable rear swaybar after this alignment. You'll need to buy camber bolts ~$25.
I added a rear strut bar as well but I really can't feel a change and although I have a quick release setup, it still eats into cargo space.
Steering rack bushings sharpen the feel in steering. I did mine to cure a crooked to last sharp turn direction steering wheel alignment problem.
Low end...Cobb accessport (~$600, supposed problems w/ 04 compatability but no problems w/ 03s) is easiest. At stage 1 you'll see a bit more low end but most of the benefit is in the mid to upper end. Deleting the cat in the UP will give you another 200~300 rpms. Silicone intercooler hoses another 50 rpms or so in placebo effect. Stage 2 (can be programmed and switched back and forth along w/ many other maps via accessport) needs a dp. Catless leads to most gains but comes w/ noise and smell. Helix catted dp's can be bought for around $400 shipped and hooked up to the stock midpipe back will give you a true 750~1000 rpm earlier power than stock. Side benefit is LOTS more on the up end (claimed 280 hp w/ noise or 260 or so w/out noise). There is no measureable change in gas mileage (stage 1 actually did better than stock by 1~2 mpg) IF you aren't stepping on it all the time. If you want more, I don't think it can be had w/out noise.
Good luck and enjoy. there are many sites dedicated to Subies. You may have to filter thru a bit and IMHO the members are a bit 'younger' with a bit more testosterone and bs but loaded w/ info. Don't forget to weed out the info from the bs.
More than this will start costing $ and involves turbo changes and custom tunes.
Don
Thanks so much for the advice, that's awesome. I had a few more questions and affirmations. I am a little confused about the sway bar... do you suggest I get a 20mm sway bar, or is that an adjustment? What should I take care of there as far as suspension goes? As far as the engine goes. I think I'm leaning toward getting a helix up and dp, and then getting a bosal cat back exhaust. What accesport, or other upgrade is the best bang for buck for low end power...Cobb Stage 1, Stage 2? Am I on the right path there?
Thanks so much,
Justin
UP/DP will run w/ stock EM but a retune of the EM will give you best results. If you don't retune, you will need to do a CELL delete also w/ up/dp. Cobbs accesport comes w/ both stage 1 and 2 maps (and many others as well as many free downloadable maps), it is the off the shelf maps set up for either stock mechanical (stage1), stage 2 requires a minimum of a dp but works best w/ up and a free flowing exhaust, stage 2.5 is for the same as stage 2 plus upgraded turbo (I forget which but I think it's VF30 and 34 turbos). You need to decide if you are going to get the catless or catted dp. w/out cat you are going to be making some noise w/ that setup (even w/ but not as much).
Your set up w/ cobbs ap set at stage 2 will give you a claimed 285hp or ~220 at the wheels w/ similar torque numbers. stock is 160~170 whp. go to cobbs wbsite and see the dyno graph comparison of stock vs stage 1 and 2 and you'll see the power start much earlier.
You will have warranty issues also.
have fun. Don
Also make sure you get good tires. They are what give you all your traction, so it doesn't matter what suspension or how much power you have if your tires suck. Spend the time to research tires to find good ones, this isn't the area where you want to be cheap.
As far as the access port goes, does that take care of the oxygen sensor issues, etc? Is Cobb the best way for retuning the EM? So to program the accessport for stage 2 I have to install a dp (up probably too), but I don't have to purchase the cobb turboback exhaust set and uppipe correct?
How difficult are these things to install on my own?
Thanks so much everyone you guys are awesome,
JT
If I were to do it all from the start, I would get my alignment set to -1.5 to -2.0 camber front, -1.5 rear, zero toe all around and then see what the car feels like.
If you have the 225's on the stock rims, then under lateral Gs, the tires deform to a point where the tread surface in contact w/ the ground isn't flat...less traction.
Cobb's accessport is not the best reflash, it is the easiest. It is pretty darn good so many go w/ it but it is a general map made to cover a wide range of conditions.
the DP is not too hard to do. The UP will take you some time. If you don't have any broken bolts, and this is your 1st one, put aside around 8 to 12 hours to do both up to dp.
The fun is in the anticipation.
As far as tires go, i do have the 225/50 on the stock wheels, is that a catastrophe...do I need to put some money in a set ofwheels...should I go 16 inch or 17 inch? I don't care so much about looks, just performance...I would kind of like to have a 16 inch wheel to put these tires I just bought on though.
What are some other options for a reflash? What do you all recommend?
Thanks for all the info. It is much much appreciated, you all are great,
Justin
I said try the alignment first as some have backed off their adjustable swaybars after the alignment.
225/50's on 6.5 inch rims is not catastophic at all. I think 6.5 inches is the narrow end of the acceptable spectrum but if you want the best out of those tires you want a 7.5 inch rim. There are nice rs 16x7 rims but they are not any cheaper than low end aftermarket.
ecutech, utech and derivatives of those are common ecu programing options but they taylor more to those who want to dyno tune. Cobb is the cheapest and posible only setup that you can use without having to retune w/ each new mod.
If you look at those who did more than this they have run into tranny upgrades and many say they would have just gone straight to a JDM swap or an sti.
Go over to nabisco and do some filtering....hours and hours of fun and bs.
Terry, I've been looking for rear AND front sway bars for my 05 wrx wagon and have found nothing. Where on earth did you find the front sway bars for your wagon???!! I've been searching for months!
Thanks,
-sam
You all have been so helpful and I'm so excited about the mods I'm getting going. But I just found out they started On Board Diagnostic testing on vehicles in my county. It involves two simple steps according to the website:
1. With the key on and engine off, the MIL light is checked to verify that it works
2. A scan tool is connected to the vehicles on-board computer system which checks the systems status.
However, they also inspect catalytic converters and do a fuel cap test.
They also say this, "Monitors not set to "ready" can prevent you from completing an emissions test."
The good part is that there is no 'sniff' testing.
What mods can I do? Will an ECU tell them that the everything is ok, will it say system not ready, will it send an error message? Can I put a catted downpipe in there still, or will they demand factor cats? I think I should leave the stock muffler in so i can be in 'sleeper' mode, but I'd like to change out the other cats if possible. If anyone has any help, it's greatly appreciated. I live in Hamilton County (TN).
Thanks so much everyone,
Justin
About a month ago, the abs light went on, on the dash, and I tested it and sure enough the ABS doesnt' work any more. I was kinda happy about that because I didn't really like the way the abs worked. Not too happy that my WRX is falling apart but at least the brakes don't annoy me anymore.
Well, today I check my mail and there's a letter from subaru saying that apparently lots of people have had the same complaint I do and while it's not a safety concern, so there's no recall, they have a new ECU for the ABS that they'll install for free if you want it because so many people complain about this.
I'm going to have it done, but of course then, I probably have to pay a lot to get the ABS fixed in the first place.
Maybe the ECU is busted or maybe a sensor wire fell off....
Anybody know of easy things I can check to see why the ABS might not be working?
But in any case, I feel vindicated, it's not just me, lots of people think the ABS is messed up on the WRX, enough so that subaru is supplying a free fix.
-juice
Last winter I was following a truck, we were doing 20mph on snow, I had about 15 carlengths between us. Truck signaled left turn, I applied brakes softly, triggered abs, no biggie, release pedal and apply again...same thing, repeat 3rd time....truck now 5 carlengths ahead and stopped waiting for opposing traffic to clear.... I just grabed e brake and spun the car purposely to get it stopped.
-juice
Bob
-juice
Thanks for your time, Justin
I'd take the 2.5T for performance, the 2.0FSI for fuel efficiency. Depends on what you want.
I really like the A3, but IMO it's what the Golf should be, and at Golf prices. An A3 with DSG and Quattro would break $30 grand, but it should be a lot less.
-juice
that is an awful lot, plus you got in the four letter bonus one too!
~Colin
I'm thinking of getting rid of my 04 accord v6(AT,quite smooth and roommy but boring) and get a WRX.
but i don't know it's a good idea to get an used WRX. (cuz u don't know how the previous owner treated the car...since it's kinda sport car)
and i also found out that used wrx has high price. not whole lot cheaper than brand new one.
which year wrx(wagon) do you think is the best one so far?
would you prefer an older model or the brand-new 06? Let me know!, thanks.
The only year I think I'd avoid is a 2002, because it lacked the force-limiting valve on the clutch. So those *might* have been abused. 03 and later made it much harder to do so.
So I'd go according to your budget, get the best 03 or later you can afford.
-juice
My 03 wagon is for sale. :-)
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-Dennis
former WRX wagon owner, now Forester XT owner.
Got to drive the '05 RS wagon [uncle's] 80+ miles today.
I do not like the headrest. I had to raise the headrest up high and tuck myself lower to get at least a wee comfortable.
They should take a page or two from "Humanscale" on how headrest should be contoured.
Craddle the neck, then the head.
-Dave
The used prices indicate the strong resale value of the Subaru brand and the popularity of the different body styles.
I'm personally a fan of the "bug eyes" and the 02/03 seats. I personally think the comfort of the seats is the biggest factor since it will either drive you crazy or make driving a very comfortable experience.
Good luck
-juice
I brought the wrx in to have the abs looked at, and they said the computer said there was nothing wrong.
Well, I'm pretty sure the abs light was on, and I'm pretty sure I can lock up the wheels when it's like that.
Anybody know if the ABS is suppose dto be telling the computer something is wrong?
So they ordered the new ecu, I guess they didn't have one thinking it wasn't a recall who would get it, so I await a phone call from them. But I was somewhat mistaken. When the ABS light is off, the ABS does work, at least some of the time...
The "recall" has nothing to do with ABS lights going on (or off). The ECU swap is only for 02-3 manual WRXs of certain VINs.
I just got the ABS ECU swap and I have tried to replicate the previous braking problem but since Illinois must have come into some cash in the last year or two and fixed all the roads and railway tracks where I used to be able to consistently get it to "not work", I haven't been able to replicate the problem again. Will be putting on the snows in a few weeks, may try it then as they used to be more of a problem than with the summer tires.
Any commentary will be much appreciated.
-Dennis
Don
From the I perspective (as in my opinion only), that means with anything less than 91, a turbo Subaru will obviously be way down on power, and pinging WILL (severity depending on conditions) occur with long-term damage probably if you keep at it, especially if driven aggressively in heat/high load. Doesn't mean your engine will blow up if you go easy and use 89 to get you home... Just that if you continue to use under 91 under all conditions, there's a good chance you will run into engine problems down the road.
Now for the H6, you can use whatever octane you want. Long-term use of octane less than 91 won't harm the engine at all, just reduced power.
-B