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I start off with three manuals, Haynes, Chiltern's, and the works! one. I have a set of tools, a Ohmmeter, a workbench in a garage and a lot of spare time. The Dragon' (my wife) has said I can spend up to $500 on this car and no more.
Right!! First problem is shifting it from the drive where it has sat for some time, so I removed the glove box lock and took it to 'Young's' in Berkeley and asked them to cut me a key for the lock, 'This key should fit the ignition, so I hope to save some bucks' there for a start.
I also know the battery is clapped out so I have probably lost any diagnostic codes which could have pointed me in the right direction. So! onto graigslist and see if I can buy a battery cheap! Will report back next week on progress made.....Martin
I now have the car at my house and have removed the inlet manifold, E.G.R. valve, and the flame trap, for cleaning as the engine seemed very oily, and I was wondering if it has crankcase compression.
While cleaning and inspecting that side of the engine I noticed that on removal of the distributor cap I found I could turn the rotor. I thought the pin in the gear at the end of the dist. had sheared but that was ok. so wondered if the dist. gear was meshing on the camshaft gear, but hey! wait a minute it has a idler so it has to be the belt. (by the way a new distributor from Volvo is $588.00 Ha! Ha! Ha!)
On dismantling the front cover Yes! I was greeted by a broken oily belt.
I was worried that one of the valves had fouled a piston but I can turn the crank freely and could not feel a tight spot or hear a knock indicating fouling. So next stop is the continuation of dismantling the front end (which is very oily) and replacing the serpentine belt. and keeping my fingers crossed that I have not a bent valve. I did notice that no.4 plug tip looked a bit whiter than the other three when removing them, so does that point to a injector fault?.....
I have also removed the seats and cleaned everywhere, the dark blue drivers seat looks very sad! with rips and play in the back rest, so I am on the lookout for a decent used one. Also the side pockets are broken so am thinking of ways to repair/renew those. I have also cut the paint back and got rid of scratches and grime, prior to giving it a good polish.
I only hope that the engine fires up after all so I can read off any codes that may show up, ( I have bought a new battery by the way). I will write again after fitting the belt and trying to start it.
I suggest you sell parts off it on craigs list or e-bay anyway, as you could make more than selling it whole! If you have the time that is to take parts off it as ,and when they are sold.
Bill
Bill
The car has 195,000 miles. Needs: Exhaust kit, A Frame Bushing (large rear seperated), and front anti sway bar work. Torque Rod Bushings.
Is this worth fixing?
Question:
Is there any advantage to going to a dealer service? Boston Village Volvo and/or South Shore Volvo.
I'm just considering going with something new and a little smaller as I live in Boston. Body is in excellent condition. No rust. Blue. Have done tons of upkeep to it too and able to document. Mom was very perfect about the upkeep basics as well. Note- I have not done the 180K service yet.
$1,200 worth of repairs from basic to major repair.. . it just wont work "like it used 2".. Please help.. I've checked everything. . . but this car has 2 personalities...
and when the mechanic gets the one where the car is "Temporarily Fine" he calls me and tells me: "it's finally fixed.. . " 2 days later . . . the car is still giving me a hard time.. . iddles too fast. .. gas consumption sucks.. . irregular rpms, and I just don't know what to do. . except taking it to a "Volvo Dealership" where they'll charge me another $1,200 to fix it.. . and then I'll know I should not have done this that and the other.. so far I have replaced the computer, sparkplugs & wires fuel pressure regulator.. . egr valve, speed sensor, air mass sensor, 4 fuel injectors.. egr pipe, fuel filter oil, & filter, Iddle motor.. and so forth... any ideas? oh yeah fuel pump relay, temp sensor, egr sensor, belts timing belt water pump.. . & so forth..
is this car evil or what..?
Check the Hall Sensor in the distributor and the Oxygen sensor mounted on the exhaust pipe just behind and below the engine. The Hall Sensor, if incorrectly operating, can give erratic ignition behavior. If the O2 sensor is in poor condition, it can provide very poor gas mileage because it tricks the engine into thinking it needs more fuel.
Any "generic" O2 sensor will work. It will have 3 wires. 2 black and one white. Clip the old ones and connect the new ones with some sleeve type crimp connectors and then solder them with rosin electrical solder. Do not trust the crimp only. Solder them. You are dealing with milli volts.
Check: volvospeed.com matthewsvolvosite.com brickboard.com and
http://volvospeed.com/bay13.htm for additional options.
Regards.
Galgo.
Car won’t start. No spark. Was running fine before I did something (a week or two of messing with this car and I have forgotten what I was working on, but it had nothing to do with the electrics, and certainly not the starting system.
Have run all the basic tests ala official shop manual and Volvo Problem Solver. Nada.
New battery.
No spark from coil
Tried the basic test and hooked a bulb to Terminal 1 of coil and ground and cranked engine - did not light
Swapped in another coil from a running car. Did not work
Hooked up my timing light to the coil (both coils), as well as to plug one, no spark - except after cranking it with no spark, got one flash at the end, I think after I finished cranking. This has happened twice.
Terminal 15 on coil is live
Terminal 1 on coil is about 1.4 volts, right where it should be
The impulse sender resistance is in range
Neither terminal of impulse sender is grounded
Have another control module, swapped it in and no change (both read about the same on the terminals that go to impulse sender - .06 volts and about .5 volts)
Continuity in wire from impulse sender to control terminal
Cleaned contacts and several grounds (engine wall by battery, windshield wiper)
Any suggestions?
Now - while idleing with lights on, pressed drivers door lock, door-open bell stats ringing (door is closed). Headlights go off and will not turn on, even after turning car off. Directional indicators work, flashers don't work, brake lights work.
Investigation reveals fuel pump fuse blown (fried, not just wire popped).
What's going on here ??
II can't find the headlight relay - where's it hiding - with the fuel relay under the glove box ?
Any ideas ? Thanks
Curtis
I can get 12V at the little red wire to the D+ alternator pole IF it is not connected to the alternator. Once connected it drops to 9.5-near10V, but not 12.
Dash light is dim, does not light up when key is switched to II, glows dimly in the dark whle engine is running.
I have slow charged my battery several times to make sure I have juice to drive from A to B while trying to figure this out. While on the charger/tester it shows 14V, but once off it drops to 12V at best on the charger and a multimeter scale. I now believe that the alternator and charging circuit are fine, but the battery is dying, maybe a weak cell. Can anybody verify having gone through this problem with same or similar results? What was your end result? Thanks
Latest is I just got back from a 400 mile R/T from sea level in San Francisco to over 7300 feet in the Sierra Nevada. Despite no extra power in climbing I was able to get where I was going, including a load of 3 guys over 200 lbs, up and over the 7380 foot pass a coupe times, Got 27 MPG over 275 of thos miles, including all the climbing. I am still a believer.
But, due to the continual need for diagnosis and treatment of little nagging problems I will not give it to my son as his first car. I get to keep it for myself, happily. He will get a Toyota,
Located in Greensboro, NC
203,000 miles
"Classic", 1 of 1600 made and the last year 240 was produced
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=262205107&dealer_id=64134891&ct=p
brickboard.com and on vlvworld.com.
The solution pointed to the AMM (air mass meter) to be causing this problem.
Also, as an extra measure of assurance, make sure all the rubber and plastic hoses in the engine compartment are connected well. Air leaks in one of these hoses cause some of the weirdest and hardest to diagnose problems. Same goes for all electrical connectors too. Good luck!
If it still has less than 1,000,000 + you have a way to go.
I have a 1992 Volvo 240gl that is giving me some electrical issue, will not spark, but determined to get it back on the road. Volvo are great cars never give them up for a lost causes.
I guess ECM is next, I hope not.
the car runs great when i can get it started.
the problem i am having is when you turn the key to start
the motor starts but when you turn the key to run the motor dies.
i have been working on this problem for a while an need some help
any ideas? thanks!
but it doesn't like starting below half tank o' gas. I've got about a year to make this beauty worthy of a cross country trip. Any tips on where to start the revamping process.
George in Wisconsin
good luck with whatever you choose.
cheers.
2.3L I4.
Runs great through all RPMs. Even idles really smooth.
Only issue is sometimes it has difficulty starting; sometimes a lot of difficulty.
Sometimes, more rarely, it back fires slightly.
what it's not:
its not the coil; had it checked.
its not the battery; had it checked.
it's not the spark plugs; they're new.
maybe something with the timing? but i wouldn't think it would idle and run so well if so.
maybe the starter is going out?? Can you get a starter tested?
maybe a fuel pump? if it's a fuel pump i'd get an electric inline one and just mount a switch powering it on the dash b/c i don't think i'm qualified to drop the tank out and get a new one.
qutie the perplexing car.
Any help is appreciated greatty
:confuse:
-Paul J