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Because many of us want brake pads that EAT rotors for lunch and vice versa. The best braking frictional capability hardly ever result in pads that last beyond 30-40,000 miles.
Can anyone tell me if there are noted problem items with the 2006 to be aware of? Also, is the 2006 V6 the same engine I'm having trouble with in my 2002?
Any pros vs. cons on the 4 cyl vs. the 6 cyl. The 4 cyl is more in my price range.
Thanks in advance to all.
the PVC valve sucking engine oil out of the engine or oil leaking out somewhere.
If there is a serious problem with the engine using oil, it may be best to trade in the 2002. If the engine is reasonably fixable, it may be best to keep the 2002.
My 04 2WD with 3rd row seat has a factory tow package with hitch, trans cooler etc...l
AMAZED at the price---I ordered a replacement PLAIN visor from the parts dept. for
$71 and still think that's high. Any ideas about where to get one for less and/or others who have same problem and ideas on how to stabilize the visor without replacing it? .
I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks...you may reply to my email--
ecomess@lycos.com
Let's keep the conversation here so everyone benefits.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I'm not sure about the first one you replaced but it is now obvious that the engine is worn out and you are not getting complete combustion, therefore, unburned gas goes out the exhaust and contaminates the converter. With your type of driving you need to religiously change the oil at more intervals. If you did change it quite often, at least every 5000 miles, it could be heavy acceleration getting up to speed and passing. The new computer engines do a good job of regulating the timing for the best combustion air/fuel/timing (VVT is stamped on the engine cover) but you may have really pushed it hard and more unburned fuel does get to the CC, but I do not know how you drive.
With this type of mileage I'm assuming you do a lot of highway driving, You did real good with this engine especially for a four cylinder. A 4 cylinder works much harder at highway speeds compared to V6. The harder the engine works there is a higher vacuum on the intake stroke that will draw more oil pass the piston rings, gets burned and then passed on to the CC and out the pipe. The highlander is a fairly heavy vehicle for any four cyclinder even though it has good horse power.
If you do not know what all this means take my word and it is time to concieve that it is worn out and ready for the clunker heap or rebuild it. But get a lighter vehicle with a four cyclinder or one with a v6.
If I were going to change anything it would be the "front" oxygen sensor because I suspect that with that kind of MPG you're more likely running to lean than any other problem.
At one time on my 2002 Chevy Astro, as I idled or back up my driveway, I would hear a jingling noise and I could never find the source until one day the Check Engine high came on. Corrosion inside the cat. caused it to collapse at around 45,000 miles (80,000 mile warranty) and no cost to me for a replacement. The replacement at nearly 70K miles later, I'm not having any problems.
Please keep us informed.
In which case that MPG is too good to be true....running VERY lean.
If the sound came up all of a sudden it could be something that was kicked up, mechanically it is something with a bearing or gear. Power steering pumps will make a noise but it changes when the steering is moved around.
There is a noticable lag in changing XM stations on the Highlander - I usually change stations from the steering column. On the Acura it changes immediately - also from the steering column.
Does anyone else notice this sluggishness?
Thanks.
Just to let me know that I still wasn't out of danger I was given a long list of various cleaning and flushing jobs that were urgently needed. None of them were due according to the Toyota service schedule.
This is getting to be too much. Once again I was assured that my brakes do not have wear detectors (although my manual says they do). It is not relaxing to take my car in for routine service when I am lied to and told I am in danger. I did feel sympathy for the young lady who was writing up my oil change -- she seemed worried that if I didn't buy something extra her job was in peril.
I expect sales pressure when I go shopping for a car . . . now I get salesmanship when what I really need is the truth about what my car needs be safe and reliable.
I had to put those clips on the new pads. If your pads have ever been changed, those wear detectors COULD have been left off [easily]. If you are on your original pads, I'm betting there are wear indicators, as I doubt Toyota would design two different systems.
Phil
I am hoping that none of this sales pressure reaches the actual mechanics. A small paranoid part of me wonders is there will come a time when the dealer makes sure its dire predictions come true.
The best medicine is if you drive in a non-hilly area, front brakes at 50K - check them, by 75K change them weather you need them or not. Play it safe and there is nothing better than a new set of pads for assurance.
Three things my father always said, never mess around with brakes, steering and tires.
Not sure if the mechanics are paid on commission but I'm sure the service advisors at my local Toyota shop are.
True story here on my friend's 4-runner just out of warranty, brought in for oil & filter change and tire rotation:
SA: The transmission fluid looks brown, I recommend a complete flush, cost $120.
My friend (who was female): Gee I don't have a clue, let me call my friend. I told her to have them recheck the fluid in front of her. If it's bright pink, it's OK.
The SA and my friend walk back, check the fluid and it's bright pink.
SA: Gee, I was just relaying information from the tech.
Maybe in your neck of the woods it is, but here in Orlando, from the sales guys to the F&I guys, to the service guys, I'd watch my back. I even tried a couple of times calling Toyota's 1-800 number to help me with dealer issues and got nothing but lip service.
So are you telling me that it is possible for the rotors to be worn when the pads were good? I do have high mileage now....over 100K and can't find any work orders where the brakes were replaced prior to last Nov.
My thought was that the dealership turned the rotors and trimmed off too much...or that the other service center was not telling me the truth to get the business. Just wanting to know whether to push the issue with the dealership. I have an appt with them to re-measure the rotors.
It does seem odd, though, that the rotors being turned once would make them too thin to pass inspection. I suppose it's possible if the technician didn't know what he was doing.
So you're not the original owner? It's possible a previous owner had the brakes done at an independent shop, and that work order wouldn't show up in Toyota's system of past repairs performed.
There is, HOWEVER, a minimum thickness to be checked BEFORE turning the rotors to see if enough "meat" is left for turning. IMMHO it is entirely possible that the rotors were turned "legally" but ended up below the minimum for the "next" time.
As a result of FE issues most modern day rotors are so light/thin that only one turning is possible.
Click here for web site" http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf110322.htm "
RESURFACE THE ROTORS EVERY TIME OR AS NEEDED?
Should rotors be turned every time the pads are replaced? Many shops resurface rotors every time the pads are replaced whether they really need it or not. Why? Because they want to avoid comebacks. Besides, many customers might think they are not getting their money's worth if the rotors are not resurfaced as part of a brake job.
General Motors has a different opinion. In technical bulletin #00-05-22-002 to its dealers, GM says, "Brake rotors should only be turned when one of the following rotor surface conditions exist: severe scoring with depth in excess of 1.5 mm or 0.060 inch, pulsation from excessive lateral runout of more than .080 mm or .003 inch, thickness variation in excess of 0.025 mm or 0.001 inch, or excessive corrosion on rotor braking surfaces."
GM also says "Rotors are not to be resurfaced in an attempt to correct the following conditions: noise/squeal, cosmetic corrosion, routine pad replacement or discoloration/hard spots."
In other words, GM frowns on rotor resurfacing during what it calls "normal" pad replacement. But is any brake job ever normal? Every job is different and every rotor needs to be carefully inspected and evaluated to determine its condition when brake work is done.
GM says resurfacing rotors unnecessarily shortens rotor life. They also say resurfacing is "ineffective at correcting brake squeal and/or premature lining wear and should not be used to address these conditions, unless specifically directed to do so in a service bulletin." Yet, how many service bulletins have we seen over the years from GM and other auto makers who say the fix for a particular brake squeal condition on a certain make or model is to replace the pads and resurface the rotors? It can be rather confusing.
So either someone can't measure or someone is lying and I'll never know which it is.....
I have a 05 V6 Highlander with 70k miles. The dealer has been telling me to change brakes and resurface rotors since it had 55k. No squealing noise. However the brakes hesitate when pressed. I get the feeling that something uneven causes the brake pedal gives a different feedback when pressed. The car does brake as expected (except for the wierd feedback the brake pedal gives).
Is the issue brake pads, rotors, both or something else? I recently got fresh tires and the problem hasnt changed.
1. New rotors are smooth on each side and straight with no runout (wobble). Each disk has the minimum thickness stamped on it, usually near the outer edge. This is the thinnest the disk is allowed to be at it's thinnest point.
2. Used rotors wear thinnner from friction. They also wear unevenly due to slight differences in the rotor metal and road conditions that throws dirt and splashes water on the disk. If water splashes on disks that are hot from heavy braking, it can cause them to warp or cause hard spots to form on the surface of the rotor. Wear on the rotor appears as circular lands and groves on each side of the rotor. Since the surface of the rotor is no longer flat and is inconsistant, the special measuring caliper used to measure the thickness of the rotor must have pointed measuring ends, the points fit into the bottom of the grooves to measure the true thickness of the rotor. The rotor should be measured at several points, and the thinnest point found is used as the measurement. This is the same system as used to measure thread thinkness on a tire, the tire tread thickness is measured in several places, and the thinnest measurment is used at the thread thickness.
3. Turning (machining) rotors - Do not turn brake rotors unless they need to be turned. Do not turn rotors just because you are putting on new pads. If the rotors appear fairly smooth with minor circular land and groves, measure at least the minumium thickness, and the brake pedal did not pulsate (stopped smoothly), you can reuse the brake rotors as they are. If their is runout (wobble) or deep lands and grooves, AND is at least the minimum thickness, you can take a light cut to clean up the disk, but DO NOT cut below the minimum thickness. Most rotors are now made with very little "extra meat" on them, and may only be able to be turned only once, and not even that if the rotor has deep grooves. These are practically "throw away" rotors, once they are bad, toss them out and get new ones.
4. Summary - If someone is measuring your rotors, make sure that they are measuring them correctly, using a measuring caliper that measures into the bottom of the grooves to obtain the true minimum thickness measurment. >><< Look at the edge of the rotor and read the minumum thickness and make a note of it in your notes or owners manual.
Good Luck,
E. D. in Sunny Florida
It would seem that since both places I took the car are well known (dealership and Goodyear), both should know how to do the measurements. At this point, I have been told that I am in the standard range by the dealership so therefore, I do not feel that I need to take further action to replace the rotors. However, the next time someone addresses rotor thickness with me, I should now be able to ask enough questions to ascertain how they are doing the measurements.