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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair
Please post your Elantra problems and share any solutions.
KarenS
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Owner's Clubs
KarenS
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Owner's Clubs
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I have already had two good-sized rocks hit my windshield while driving about 75mph on the Interstate. Fortunately, the windshield must be of good manufacture, since each impact is merely a small 1 millimeter mark on the surface of the glass.
Do dent doctors remove these things too?
This shift delay only occurs when I use very light throttle pressure. If I'm giving the car a lot of gas the shifts are crisp. Also, after I've driven for 15 minutes or so the shift delay goes away.
I noticed the same dealy when I test-drove a different Elantra GT. Perhaps there is some sort of temperature control governing the tranny's shift patterns. Or perhaps Hyundai's "fuzzy logic" shift computer needs to be reprogrammed.
Other than the shift delay and a tendency to hold 3rd gear too long, I'm satisfied with the transmission's performance.
Power steering is supposed to be light. I believe that they don't use the real power steering in the Cavalier; but a "light" version which I believe they call "ASSISTED..." something!
That may account for the difference you are feeling!
1..steering wheel shimmy since day 1, 2 balances and a rotation later, STILL have the shimmy
2..Check engine light for a canister valve that wasnt closing at 250 miles
3..bad compressor at 1000 miles
4..a pull to the left at 65MPH, pull to the right at 0-45MPH
Does anyone have any advice? I only have 1000 miles on this car, and I never had these problems with any other car I owned. This is a brand new car, I am losing faith in Hyundai. Is there anyone I can call at Hyundai to vent my problems besides the dealership?
Also above 55mph the car pulls to the right, all tires are inflated to 30psi as the sticker recommends. In measuring the height of the wheelwells, I found that unloaded, the drivers side front of the car is .25-.5 of an inch lower than the other side. Gonna call the dealer first thing tomorrow and schedule an appointment.
1) Faulty gas cap sensor????
2) o2 sensor
3) Can angle sensor
4) Exhaust rattle
5) Brake peddle touches floor
6) Car vibrates at idle
I was told Sensors are about $300 after warranty is up. Going back 8/29/01 check engine light is on again. Steering is pulling to the left even worse than before, you can here the tires ! I like the power, the look and room but the rest they can have .Off to brush up on Lemon Law.
Re A/C noise, mine made some noise once after not driving for several days, but that was it. What is a "long time" for you? Since it's happening more than once it would not hurt to have the dealer take a look.
It is normal: due to the rapid change in outside temp.(to cool dry air); While the inside of the car is still hot and humid from the "previous weather" and couldn't escape with the warm and humid air mass to which it belonged; because it was trapped inside the car... it creates condensation on the inside ...
The same thing will happen if you take a glass of water with ice cubes, while the outside temp. is warm and HUMID: condensation will form on the outside of the glass.
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Around my 3rd gas fill-up I noticed that the FUEL GAUGE would not register FULL,even after I topped the tank off.The corresponding digital readout seemed to follow the GAUGE indicator...showing a partially full tank.Example: when the GAUGE was working properly...FULL...the digital readout indicated approx 487 miles to use. After the problem began with my last fill-up, the FUEL GAUGE indicated less than full with the digital readout reading approx 350 miles to use. I read somewhere that someone with a similar problem began filling-up with the ignition on the ACC mode.He stated that this took care of the problem.Has anyone else had this FUEL GAUGE situation? I have the warrenty,I know,but I was told the vehicle would have to be checked overnight at the dealer.I'm hoping I can remedy this myself.
1) After I drive the car for a while (15-30 minutes), the engine makes a very harsh noise when cruising in 1st or 2nd gear. Sounds like there is a whole lot of excessive friction. I know that I only have about 700 miles on it and sometimes new engines need some time to "break in", but the noise is concerning.
2) I've just noticed this problem recently...when I go over sharp bumps (both at high and low speeds)...the suspension (especially the rear) makes a very loud "thunk". With the firmer sport suspension on the GT, I should expect a little more tire and suspension kickback when I go over bumps...but this a totally differnet kind of noise...it sounds like there is something loose back there.
If you've had any of these problems, I would really appreciate your feedback. I will be taking the car to the dealer soon, but with your feedback I'll be able to better explain these problems to the technician.
Thanks!
It started back around 9K when it would not shift well from 2nd to 3rd. It would rev out all the way to the redline and then bang into 3rd, so they replaced tranny. Now it was shifting very hard from 1st to 2nd, they inspect the car and find it was blowing tranny fluid out it's vent. So... another transmission is going in.
We are really worrying here, I mean 3 trannys in any car is a LOT, but for one that still has not passed 17K?!
Does anyone have any similar experiences or know of any info about their trannys, and also what would you do if you were in our situation?
Tanx.
**Edit** This is the second car we have bought from this dealer, and believe it or not, before this had happened we were seriously considering getting the new Sonata. (we are selling our Tracker)
The mileage will vary a lot with local driving. One tank will be 20 mpg, the next 30. I usually refill around 150 miles. The varying mileage doesn't seem to have much to do with how I drive and I'm careful to fill the tank completely, especially if it's taking less gas than I expect.
I mentioned the mileage to the dealer once and they became very defensive. Since the car runs well, I'm not interested in any major work. I tried changing the air filter, but no change. Has anyone found anything that improves their mileage? Thanks.
I use 10-30 except for the most recent change (winter) 5W30. I think 10W30 is their preferred weight. I use 5W30 year around for those cars where the manual recommends it. Hyundai is rather unique for allowing 10W40 oil. Haven't seen that on a recommended list in almost twenty years, and don't think I'd want to try it.
If you're into synthetics, I'd recommend 10W30 all year long.
erk3 (message #19) reported the same quirk, and cjaccetta (message #6) reported his GT also delayed slightly (but without the rpm increase).
I didn't notice the problem this morning on my way to work, however, and the shifts are crisper if I accelerate more quickly. I'll monitor it closely from now on, though.
In the meantime, I'd be very curious to hear updates from those of you who experienced this quirk. Have you had any additional problems? What did the dealer say when/if you took it in for service?
Any info/updates would be much appreciated. Thanks.
The problem is actually the tranmmission computer getting familiar with your acceleration patterns. The delay in shifting should be gone after you have driven the car for a longer period of time- the tranmission is simply adapting to the way you accelerate. I believe the feature is called, "Hyundai Intelligent Vehicle Control" (HIVC).
1) my rpms have not "flared" more than 500,ever.
2) the flare-up is indicated on the tachometer only,no speed increase.
3) prior to my current milage(9500)it use to occur wether the engine was cold or warm.After I passed 8500 it now seems to go away after I've been driving about half an hour.
4) when the engine is cold or inactive for awhile,the process repeats itself.
5) the most interesting thing for me is how it's been going away once the vehicle warms up(ie less of a problem than before)
It's a quirky thing alright but it's the only quirk I've got in an otherwise problem-free car.
this is how to...
1. remove ash tray
(there is bar over the ash tray, pull ash tray while pushing the bar)
2. there are 2 screws the place where ash tray was unscrew.. and there are 2 more in the gauge area
3. pull the face plate from ash tray section.
(It needs some force but not too much...You don't want to pay to order new faceplate)
4. during pulling there are some connections in the cigar lighter UNCONNECT IT
(CAUTION: WATCH OUT FOR SHORT OF ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT)
and there are some more connection in clock and emergency lights and dimmer in opposite side...unconnect these things.
5. There you can see 6 screws beside of audio..Because audio and shelf areas are connected...
You should remove 6 screws...
6.Finally you disassembly audio.
change audio and re assembly
If you have questions please leave messages on here
Engineers in hyundai don't think about replacement to after market audio...
Mainly because they only think about In-land (Korea)customers.. In korea, market of after market audio is not so big enough.. and most people just satisfy with the factory installed audio.
Furthermore.. there were some car-audio theft cases.. so designer designed parts difficult for people to open and replace...
This has occurred all year regardless if cold or warm weather. It happened in the summer when I would go to fill-up my tank on my way to work at about 6:45 AM. The only time the fuel door springs open is after the car has been sitting in the sun for several hours.
The spring is the problem, I'm certain. How can I increase the tension on the spring? Now with winter upon us, the fuel door won't budge in the AM or PM!
Forget WD-40 (it's been tried), dealer has tightened cable, but spring is the culprit so the fuel door remains "unlatched" but won't open. Maxon Service Department did absolutely nothing the last time I brought it in (12/28). Called today and asked to speak with the Service / Parts Director. I was told he was with a customer. I left a message and waited all day. I'm still waiting for that call back ...
This problem along with several other minor ones is starting to shake my confidence in Hyundai. Great warranty but we don't fix the problem ... they just ignore it and hope the customer just resigns himself/herself to live with the problem or go somewhere else.
After owning the car for about one year, if I had to make the "buy" decision today, I'd buy a Honda Civic EX. I owned 3 Hondas before deciding to give Hyundai a chance. NEVER had a problem!!! By the way, in NJ, the Honda Civic EX is $300 cheaper on insurance than the Hyundai Elantra for identical coverage!
Live and learn ...
If anyone has ANY helpful insights on the fuel door problem, I'd REALLY appreciate your kind advice. If anyone has any recommendations on a good Hyundai Service Dept. in NJ, I'm all EARS. I won't go back to Maxon Hyundai under ANY circumstances.
I have the same problem with my fuel door as chameleon3. I just tap on mine when i doesnt open, pull the release again and it usually opens rithe up. Now that i hear that this problem may get worse, i will try to come up with a solution that is more permanent and if i succeed, I will post it
I'll have the dealership take a look at it next Wednesday since I've already scheduled an appointment to have them fix (I hope!) a REALLY ANNOYING buzzing/rattle coming from the front passenger door area. This sound is driving me bonkers!
Anyone else have this buzzing sound?