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Acura Integra GSR Customizing and Modifying
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'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Dinu
Thanks for the help.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Now, I 've said this before. I do better in certain courses than others. I can tell because people I normally do better than, would either beat me or be very close to my times. This is most likely YOUR type of course that you do well in and that your car behaves better in.
Out of all these factors I mentioned I believe the last one carries the most weight. The same goes with other cars. I 'll beat certain Miatas etc. in some courses, and in others, they kick my butt. The individual course and wether it benefits our car's power & suspension capabilities to the fullest, have a lot to do with it.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
A win is a win, even if the guy was driving with 1 good eye. That's right. Show them how it's done! (that's what the announcer said over the speakers when I got FTD at the end of the morning runs at Rye Playland, a NYR SSCA sanctioned auto-x, and it felt great). Let it feel good and be proud. Kick those non-Acura/Honda cars' butts! :-)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Are you asking whether you should do the hood or the CAI first? Flip a coin.. I would 've done the exhaust last. The CAI would 've made your car noticeably more powerful. The exhaust gains you can only feel at high speeds and slightly at very high RPMs. The CAI is noticeable throughout the REV band.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm
I 've read many but this one seems to be the best so far.
It talks about a lot of the myths associated with warped rotors, their association with pads, facts about street pads, high end street/race pads, race pads, bedding them in properly, etc. A lot of it we know already but I learned some new things too. This guy goes into detail about how the pad & rotor work together and different variations of symbiosis between the 2 and failure scenarios. The guy who wrote this apparently worked for Shelby and did a long term brake study. Good stuff. Got it off the H-T competition forum.
I 'm glad he confirmed (and that it 's not a myth) that high end street/race pads with high heat limits don't grip as well when they 're cold. Now I know for sure my Axxis pads are more for racing than street because they 're not as good when cold. He also seems to favor carbon metallic pads (more recent) over semi-metallic ones for various technical reasons he discusses plus less chances of warpage. I think my MMs are semi-metalic (not 100% sure though), not sure about the Porterfield R4S that I may switch to this season (just to see if they 're better). The R4 I believe is carbon-metallic but a bit too much for street and I hear they don't grip for anything when cold or in cold weather so they tend to be a little dangerous. Like the guy says, there 's no such thing as a good all around street/race pad. There are pads that are good for street and low speed stopping and those that work best when hot or stopping from higher speeds.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I don't know what else to do, and I'm getting very frustrated and upset. Please let me know if you know a way to get out of this situation. Thank you so much
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
It's funny you mentioned M/C. I had a Master Cylinder go bad on me too on my '99 GSR but I didn't know it. I just knew the brakes were working horribly and had to keep my distance from other cars. I was probably braking with only 2 wheels. Anyway, just keep bugging them and you can call the district attorney's office too in Jacksonville and speak to an Asst. DA and tell them what happened. They are violating state & county laws by refusing to fix your car. Does this car have over 50k mi? If not, then it's under warranty by Acura or until 2003. The Master Cylinder should be covered anyway. Not the brake pads or rotors. Good luck!
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
The Neuspeed tie bar is lower than the sway bar and goes on the subframe where the LCAs mount. You install it between the 2 LCA mounting points of the subframe. It was pretty easy to install but you might need a 2nd person to push the LCA arms back towards the subframe to line them up while you 're putting the bolts through. The Neuspeed tie bar comes with longer bolts (screws) and larger heavy duty washers.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
My next "big" part is a CAI, probably next month, and after that my new hood or taillights. Oh, and would a CF hood with a vent/scoop + a short ram intake = a flat hood + a CAI? Thanks
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=137629
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Here we get mostly Golfs & Escorts in FSP, not too many Civics either. I think most Civic DX/LX owners just go overboard with mods and end up in SM or in a Prepared class. Sometimes an aero-kit or cross drilled rotors alone will bump you up to SM. You don't even have to have any real mods. One guy last year only had aftermarket calipers in his Audi A4 and raced in SM most of the season. What a shame. He was really stock and usually last in the class because he didn't stand a chance. Towards the end of the season I convinced him to get a chip and he finally did it. He dropped his times by about .75sec. Those chips really do give them a lot more torque & HP.. He was noticeably faster.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Now I 've heard that Neuspeed sells Koni Yellows that have 5 height adjustments. They say these are custom made by Koni for Neuspeed. Not sure about that but those increments should be smaller than what I have but they also cost more than the regular Konis that you can shop around for. With Neuspeed, you probably only get 1 price, most likely list price.
Although many say the Konis are good for up to 600lb/in., I 've raced against a '95 GSR with 800F/650R rates on Koni Yellows. This guy also did a lot of roadracing (he kicked my butt in auto-x by .8s) but I don't know how long he had the Konis for. I asked him if they were revalved and he said no. Anyway they 'll handle the spring rates you 're considering which by the way are almost identical to the GC street kit. The GC street kit with Konis is very good for a daily driver and weekend auto-xing. This guy from the Philly region came to my club with his '00 GSR and beat me twice (the 2nd time around I matched his best time in the fun runs though, but it didn't count) with just the regular GC street kit & Comptech 22mm sway. I don't think his skill level was as good as mine but he still beat me because he had a better suspension. The GC street kit is probably the best way to go if you have an average commute and don't want the ride of 400+ spring rates. It's about 350F/275-300R.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Now get this. In a NASA event I attended last year, there was a g5 Civic ('92-95) with 600F/475R GC coilovers. He was on Illumina shocks going on his 2nd season! Now it's possible one of these guys or both had leaking shocks and didn't realize it.. don't know, but that GSR handled nicely probably more because of its extra wide wheels & Hoosiers than the springs.
So I 'm not so sure about this 600lb/in. rule of thumb, but I guess everyone figures if you 're going to go that high or higher than 600, you 're taking racing seriously and revalving your shocks should go without saying..
Oh, I almost forgot. There was a guy on H-T last spring/summer, with 600F/800R spring rates on off the shelf Koni Yellows. He was complaining of too much oversteer. Don't remember what name he went by.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
It happened to me when I first got the Konis. I was running them much firmer than I do now. I had them at least 1/2 turn up front and a full turn in the back or more because my first couple of events I kind of liked the tail come around and then slam the gas to straighten it out (until I realized this was hurting my times). The light turns green and the car in front of me makes a left and I follow. I hit the gas kind of hard at first and then realized I was going a bit too fast and would hit the car in front of me if I didn't slow down as I was turning. It was so embarassing. I eased off the gas a little and the tail came around (to the right) a foot or 2, and thank god I wasn't going too fast otherwise I would 've hit the curb. The car straightened out pretty fast mostly due to the low speed and me giving it some more gas. So I pulled over and dialed up the front another 1/4 turn or so and brought the rear down a little and the car was fine after that.. on the street anyway. Those soft springs we have in the rear just get overpowered by the shocks if they 're too firm, and hardly compress. I have pics where I 'm 3-wheeling (you 've seen it) with only 3/4 turn in the back (6-7 lines - 40% firm?) and the 'outside' rear tire was still not inside the fenderwell and actually almost 1" below it. The shock won't compress as easily when too firm, and won't let the spring compress either. The bigger rear sway bars we have also don't allow much flexing. The upgraded sway bar takes away most of the forces going to the outside (on a turn)spring & shock, and transfers very little of it. And that's when we get the fishtailing or the opposite when at WOT, the pushing effect, because the outside spring & shock don't compress as much thus keeping the car pretty linear/flat and the car slides sideways. Now when I dial down (or dial in softness as most say) the shocks in the back, it allows the springs to compress more and this translates to quicker turns for me where the car follows the direction of the turn easier and results in better & faster turn-in and quick transitions from side to side. Although I admit I 'm full on the gas with firmer shocks, the car usually stays nicely planted on a turn or sweeper, steering is slower to respond however, and when coming out of lets say a right turn, I need to make a gate on the left, it takes longer to point the car that way because the shocks are rebounding slower due to too much firmness. This causes the car to push/understeer in my case. And if after that I have a slalom to go through, forget it. The responsiveness is not there. Stiffness dominates and although it produces almost no body roll, the lightning fast left/right responsiveness (that I get with softer shock settings) is gone, resulting in me going slower through the slalom. This kills my times. A 3 or 4 cone slalom can hurt your times 1sec or more if not taken properly and with the right speed. We usually have 2 of those around here.
If and when I get high rate coilovers, I 'll have to experiment with higher Koni settings. I have no choice and have to at least match the higher spring rates with the proper dampening. I 'll have to adjust to all that all over again and I will experiment with even firmer Koni settings to at least emulate some of the other drivers in my area that race w/custom rate coilovers and Konis set at full firm. I 'll then evaluate what works best for me and produces the best times.
Again though, like I 've said before, I have found out that firmer settings work a little better at NASA, BMW & Porsche clubs that design their courses as mini road racing ones. While at SCCA clubs/chapters, I go softer on the Konis because of their tightness & slaloms that demand quick transitions and steering response. So I 've come to learn that to get the fastest times possible I have to always adjust the Konis according to how the course is designed. Sometimes I sacrifice the 1st & 2nd run to get the feel of the course and the car while adjusting the Konis.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)