Suzuki Vitara Maintenance and Repair

jlxdriver · December 2005

I own a 2001 Suzuki Vitara JLX.

It is a four door, automatic. I have had to repair the timing chain components once. :mad: It cost me $1150.00.

That was two years ago. I have noticed the same noice indicator again. Has anyone else experienced this and if so What if anything is Suzuki doing about it?

jlxdriver · December 2005

I see your posting was May 26, 2005 so I assume that you have since taken care of your problem. Have you experienced any problems since? How do you take care of the timing chain problem?
It cost me $1150.00

jlxdriver · December 2005

Have you experienced any mechanical problems with the timing chain?

jlxdriver · December 2005

That whrr in my 2001 was the timing chain. It cost $1150.00

to fix.

jlxdriver · December 2005

Have you had anymore problems with the timing chain?

jlxdriver · December 2005

I am having the rattling noise which is the indication I go the first time it had to be replaced at about 47,000 miles. Please tell me if Suzuki covered your second repair?

cyclemaniac · January 2006

I just experience that problem today, and want to know to (01 2.0 2wd tracker)

woody72 · January 2006

From another forum someone with a '95 said he had a similar problem and it turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator. I have only had it happen a couple of times now. I'm making sure all my basics are up to date; fuel filter, plugs, etc and I've added a gas dryer to the fuel to absorb any water in the system. Intermittant problems are the hardest to diagnose. Let me know what you have tried.

xostnot · January 2006

Anyone have solutions to these:

- the leather seat cushion covers don't return to their original size after someone sits on them, so they bulge with loose material and look like crap with only 2000km on the GV.
- the cheap lug nuts are already corroding.

andyq · January 2006

I have a similar problem regarding the noise. I had my car checked, the problem was with Timing Chain. The repair cost was about $1200. But has to be repaired. If it goes, it will damage the engine and the cost could be 5-6 times higher.

jon33martin · February 2006

i like my vitara the only trouble i have if with the keyless entry my sister friend had a new computer put in it i havent had any trouble with it i installed tinted window it looks great the only thing i dont like on the car is the rims there very ugly i keep my car pretty clean overall i like the car

woody72 · February 2006

Anyone know where the coolant drain plug for the block is on a '01 2.0L? Also, does anyone flush their power steering fluid and/or their clutch fluid on a routine basis? I'm approaching 90K miles, have flushed my brake fluid, considering the other two.

genos4x4 · February 2006

Engine is cranking but it does seems like it wants to start. ANy ideas what might be causing problem?
Did any one ever have this problem on 2001?

spottess · February 2006

Hi, I own a 1999 Suzuki Escudo. My problems first started when the coolant started disappearing in a day or less. Got it pressure tested, found no leaks. Changed the cover worked for a week then started losing coolant again. Mechanic removed thermostat, worked for 1 week then started losing coolant again! Found traces of coolant in the engine oil cover and finally the head gasket blew because, as the mechanic said, the coolant was mixing with the engine oil. Got that sorted, but problem persisted. Then mechanic found a crack in the thermostat housing. So he replaced that and put in a new thermostat. That worked for a day! Then, the reservoir started sucking the coolant back until it was way above the full level; overflowing with coolant and eventually went empty and the engine overheated. Mechanic changed the fan the last visit... problem persists. Now we all are totally frustrated! HELP US PLEASE!!!!!

robert123 · March 2006

Do you have SES light indicator on? If you do, it could be a faulty ignition coil. One of your cylinders is not firing, thus not turning the engine enough to start on its on.

The way you can check that is to take one ignition coil out at a time. Then put it close to a ground( metal surface)turn the car on and if you see sparks jumping to ground the rubber boot is not good anymore because the spark never reaches the spark plug instead it short-circuts with the metal of engine block walls.

siberia · March 2006

I will try to help but my help is based on experience not observation of you car so I may not provide good information as I am not familiar with the Escudo.

Found traces of coolant in the engine oil cover and finally the head gasket blew because, as the mechanic said, the coolant was mixing with the engine oil.

Maybe you didn't intend to write this in this order. Coolant mixing with the engine oil is generally a symptom of a problem, not a cause. Normally, an engine overheat causes an aluminum head to warp and coolant leaks into the engine oil or the cylinders. If it leaks into the cylinders it shows up as white smoke coming out of the exhaust. If water goes into the oil the filler cap can have a milky film inside and the oil can be milky on the dipstick. The only cure for this is to resurface the head and install a new head gasket. You still need to find the cause of the overheat. However, in rare cases the head gasket can fail through corrosion and leak water causing the overheat which warps the head, etc, etc, as you describe. Simply replacing a head gasket will not seal a warped aluminum head - assuming you have an aluminum head. A warped aluminum head must be resurfaced.

I think there was evidence of an overheat since coolant was pushed from the radiator into the reservoir.

A crack in the thermostat housing sounds like a defective part, an over tightened part, or an overheat. Running without a thermostat will not cure any cooling problem that I know of other than a bad thermostat. In that case it should be replaced with a good one.

I have a 2002 4cyl Vitara. It has an engine driven fan and an electric fan. The electric fan only runs when the air conditioning is on or in very hot weather. I suppose it could be a bad electric fan switch that caused the initial overheat if there was one. My temperature gauge runs a little below half way no matter how hot it gets outside.

I suppose it is possible to have a crack in the block somewhere but that is extremely rare and perhaps related to inadequate antifreeze in cold weather. Did you have some really cold weather before all this started?

csears · March 2006

? can the rocker cover be removed without lifting the intake does anyone know?

2thdoc1 · March 2006

My Suzuki has about 25k miles. I use it only in summer for boat trailering/fishing.I had the valves adjusted at a local dealership. After returning home, I noticed that the 4x4 lite would not go on when shifted into 4wd. Also, the vehicle would no longer engage the front wheels. I returned to dealer and was told it clould cost about $1k to fix problem. Anybody got any ideas as to where to look for possible power cable to 4WD engager/activator under the hood?? Or is it something more serious. I have never gone off roading, only engage 4wd to get boat trailer out of water at ramp.

woody72 · April 2006

I would recommend another mechanic's opinion as these motors have hydraulic valve lifters and need no adjusting.

bgd5412 · April 2006

Sorry, but no.

bgd5412 · April 2006

Ditto what Woody72 said. Look for another mechanic.

deecatti · April 2006

I took my Vitara V6 2L to a Suzuki dealer for tracking alignment, it cost me twice as much than if I had taken it to a tyre dealer. Can anyone tell me if they use special tools only the Suzuki dealers have, or is it that Suzuki dealers are expensive.

parts52us · April 2006

A few years ago we had a customer who bought a Suzuki '02? with the 2.7 V6 with 57K. Had noise at idle that turned out to be the #1 Chain Tensioner. The noise would go away when you increased the RPM's above idle then return at idle.

Found some info. AERA and other sources. Seems like the hyd. tensioner had real tight clearanes and very small orfaces that can plug or gum up. We tried the old Berrymans addive in the oil (engine additive as per instructions on the can) followed by a oil/ filter change with 5w-30. The noise went away and the customer never had to tear into the engine. I think it was caught early enough that no damge was done to the chain or Tensioner. Also found out: Use 5W-30 oil only. Use a good OEM filter or Wix,NAPA,Carquest Filter. Not the discount store junk Champ, Hastings,Fram etc. Change the oil at 3,000mile max!!

The SUV now has aprox. 92K on it with no more noise and the owner followed the above on oil changes. BTW, the dealers service manager did not have a clue of- 1. what causes the failure. 2. How to prevent it from happenig again. IMHO I feel if you catch the noise eary enough or take the above precautions before any noise the 2.7 will last like it should.

lee1228 · April 2006

My wife ansd I purchased a 2006 Forenza. She drives it and has been happy with it until yesterday. She back out of the garage put it in park and got ouy of the car to close the door. When she did the car moved forward 3to 4 feet coming to rest on the garage frame. When she got into the car she went to put it in park but it was already there. Has anyone else experience this. I am sure this will be an on going fight with the dealer.

bigfrog · April 2006

I hate to bring this up but the labor is pretty easy. I used to be a
tech at a tri dealer one of there car lines was suzuki. I can personaly
do the job correctly in 1 hour 45 minutes flat. The average b tech
should be able to do it in 3 hours. If it's his frist one I would say 4
to 4 hours 30 minutes. I would do them for 8 labor hours customer pay
at the dealer just to give the customer a break the 13.7 book time is
way to much. The total bill with parts was $946.76 inc tax / 6% here in ct
$79 dollers an hour labor rate.

mick72 · June 2006

I have a 1998 Grand Vitara and have noticed the tensioner start to rattle over the last three months. It is not causing any problems yet, but I would be interested to know if anyone else has tried the oil treatment method that "parts52us" suggested, as I would like to catch the problem early and avoid the expense of renewing the tensioner if at all possible (around AUD$1500-2000 here in Australia!).

Thanks.

kismit · July 2006

I have a 2000 Tracker 4 dr, 4 wd. The service engine light came on soon after the speedometer/cruise quit working. The code came up P0500. The dealership gave me a part #30020772 for a vehicle speed sensor. However, no one I contact for this part (as it is $266 at the dealership) can find or cross reference this number. They say it must be a shelf number or something. Can anyone out there help?

laurel3 · July 2006

Hello ... I have a 2000 Grand Vitara; heard a rattling under the car, took it to the dealer, and they quoted me about $1,000 to replace the timing tensioner. Unfortunately, I don't know anything about this--I'm away from my usual mechanic (my father) for the first time--and I'm hoping someone can offer a little more enlightenment on the last thing the mechanic said, which was "It could fall apart tomorrow, or it could last another 5 years. I've seen cars go both ways."

Since I don't actually have $1,000 on hand at the moment, I'm wondering whether that means that I absolutely shouldn't be driving the car until this is fixed, or whether it's not a total crisis yet. And what does "fall apart" mean, exactly? (I.e. what would happen if it went tomorrow--would I do additional damage to the car?) In short, panic or don't panic? Thanks very much.

old911guy · July 2006

I have a 2002 Vitara 2.0 L with 76K miles on it and after placing transmission in power mode recently, it won't come out of it. Dealer was not helpful, just saw $$$ signs and said bring it in, as there was no single likely problem which would cause this. Can't find anything in owner's manual about a fuse or relay which governs normal/power setting. Can anyone point me in the right direction to resolve this problem? I also just changed the transmission fluid to Mobil 1 synthetic and filter (which did not need changing). New posting, new member, never done this before, could use a hand. Thanks!

tidester · July 2006

Welcome aboard!

While you're waiting for a reply here you may also want to try Transmission Traumas? as well. It's not Vitara specific but you can get some really good pointers there!

tidester, host

samran · July 2006

Hi all,

Am living in Thailand and we recently purchased a second hand 1995 vitara 5 door as a run-about vehicle (new cars are really expensive here due to the import tax).

Anyway, the model we have runs on 95-unleaded. However, the thai government has seen fit to introduct a new 95-unleaded with a 10% ethanol mixture in it and phase out the 'pure' stuff.

My question is, am I able to use this new mixture with our model of car, or should I switch to 91-unleaded and then top it up with a bottle of 'octane booster' with every fill.

Thanks foryour time.

old911guy · July 2006

There is commonly 2 methods used to compute octane rating in the USA. I am not that familiar with the formulas, but does Thailand use the same method? Most vehicles here run quite well on 87 octane, with the highest octane normally available at the pumps is 93 octane. 95 octane here would be very expensive and basically a waste of money. The higher the compression ratio, the higher the octane the engine would require. I would first determine what method is used there to compute octane ratings, and then determine what the compression ratio is for your engine. Normally aspirated engines here in the 8.5:1 to about 9:1 compression ratio get along well on 87 octane. Engines above that level ususally require higher octane gas. Turbocharged and supercharged engines, although many have low compression ratios, require high octance gas, as my son's 2002 Mustang GT with a supercharger and intercooler does. Low octane gas makes it spark knock. The "gasohol" mixture should work OK in most engines, although some older engines may have a problem with the fuel system seals not tolerating alcohol very well. I am not an authority on this, so check with someone who is. You might also expect a slight decrease in mileage using the alcohol-gasoline mixture. Hope this helps a little. Good luck.

banker843 · July 2006

Evening 2thdoc1...did you ever discover & repair your Suzuki? I'm curious as I know have the same problem & my mechanic has not idea what the problem is & our local Suzuki dealership doesn't seem to be much help either. Can you provide any assistance as to the cause & solution of the problem. Thanks!!

old911guy · July 2006

Actually, I did. Dealer was no help, just wanted me to bring it in so they could puzzle over it at $65.00 per hour. I removed the normal/power switch and the light went out. It also felt like the transmission was in normal mode. So I ordered a replacement switch (almost $30.00!) and after a week it arrived. Suzuki car parts service sucks! I installed the switch and everything is working fine again. The switch is the most vulnerable point of the system (so easy to spill something and gum it up) so that was my thought as the most likely source of the problem. I lucked out as that was what the problem was.

old911guy · July 2006

Attention all 2006 Aerio SX owners: If you are having a problem putting gas in your tank, you are not alone. We have had the problem with ours since we bought it last November, and talked to another owner tonight, and you guessed it: that owner is having the same problem. We have now been waiting weeks for parts and it turns out regarding one part, there were none available in the country to cure the problem. We got all kinds of song and dance from the dealer, basically denying there was a problem. We pushed the issue and they finally agreed that there was a problem putting fuel in the tank. The fix requires removal of the gas tank and replacing 3 parts. 2 parts were located within 2 weeks, but the 3rd piece, the valve for the air vent was not availabe anywhere in the USA. This was the tipoff that there may be a widespread problem and that the fix would require a newly designed part to replace the original one(s). We were told that it would be a month or more before the part would be released by Suzuki, after having the car in the shop for 2 weeks. Lo and behold, after another week, the mysterious unavailable part was suddenly available. Another week to obtain a service appointment, and maybe by the end of the first week of August, the car MAY be fixed. Time will tell. If you are having a problem putting gas in your tank, go see your dealer and don't take "No" for an answer. Feel free to let me or others know you are having a similar problem. Stay tuned!

old911guy · July 2006

How about an update regarding your earlier posting. I wonder if you got a satisfactory answer to your problem. Thanks!

samran · July 2006

Yes, thanks for the help!

Octane ratings are different here, 91 and 95. So I guess the engine compression is different.

stever · July 2006

It may not be the engine compression but the octane rating system. In North America the Research Octane Number and the Motor Octane Number are averaged to get the octane number. The MON is measured under load and is lower than the RON. So our octane rating is 4 to 5 points lower than gas in other places. From your post it looks like Thailand uses the RON number as do Europe and Australia.

What I really want to know is ... do you have your dash and body decked out like a real Thai vehicle? :shades:

taugal6 · July 2006

I am a new member to the forums, although I have used the website many times researching cars. I am in the process of buying a vehicle for my teenage son to replace his 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee that was totaled in a wreck (not his fault, BTW). He loved his Jeep, except for the MPG, so we are considering a 2001 Suzuki Vitara JLX 4X4, 4-door, Auto, 96K miles. (Yes, it's high mileage, but that's nothing for an import, right???)

We test-drove this vehicle and were very impressed. All the power features, cruise, & remote worked, but we didn't engage the 4WD. We heard no unusual engine noises, no vibrations, etc. All in all, seemed to be a pretty solid ride.

This vehicle is on an independent lot, but the owner was manager of local new car dealership for 30+ years (retired), and has a good reputation. He said he had just received the vehicle (it was still in the back of the lot) and had not had time to check it out fully, but knows it needs new tires (obvious) and an A/C recharge because the air is not as cool as it should be.

After reading this entire thread, I am wondering...could the A/C problem be something more involved than low refrigerant...such as bent condenser fins, or has this "flaw" been corrected in the '01 models?

Before I purchase, I will definitely take it to my trusted mechanic for a complete inspection. But is there anything else that should warrant special attention on this vehicle? I have owned many imports, but never a Suzuki, so I am naive about this brand and need some guidance.

Thanks for any advice from anyone.

nodar · July 2006

Hello, I just had my 2001 Suzuki GV in to the dealership for a regular scheduled maintenance. It has 95KM on it and with the exception of replacing the tires (like everyone else) has not has any major problems. I was told that i have a serious leak in BOTH the rear right axle seal and the front right axle seal. I had the rear axle seal replaced which cost $14.88 for the part and $247. for the labour.(apparently it is hard to access?) I was told it would cost approx $150 to do the front axle seal. Unfortunately, when the mechanic tried to repair the front axle seal, he found that it had seized and told me he will run the risk of damaging the axle itself which would cost another $250 to replace in addition to the seal and worst case if he damages another part close to where he is working it could cost up to $700 OUCH! I was prepared to spend another $150 but i'm very anxious about the risk of damaging something else that could cost up to $700. I'm very surprised that both seals would leak at 95km and at the same time. I'm wondering if it is possibe faulty seals were put in? I checked for recalls but didn't see anything? I'm supposed to be taking a vacation trip in a couple of weeks so feel pressurd to get the front axle seal repaired but very nervous about the risk. Has anyone had similar problems? Any advise would be appreciated.
Thx, i'm not a happy GV owner right now!

old911guy · July 2006

I replaced the front brake pads on my 2002 Suzuki Vitara (JLX?) the other day and saw evidence of something slinging oil all around the right front fender well. I trace it to the right front axle seal on the front differential (is a 4WD). I have not had a chance to check the oil level in the front differential. Uh oh! How does an axle seal seize? Do you mean that it is frozen onto the axleshaft and is spinning in its seat on the differential? Something does not sound right here. The seal is "rubber" lip on the metal axleshaft, maybe with a spring band behind it to keep a tight grip on the shaft going thru it, but I cannot see how the seal would seize on the shaft; seems sort of an impossibility to me. Is the individual working on it an independent repairman or is he working for a Suzuki dealership? If he is an independent, I would suggest getting a second opinion, preferably from a dealer. Sometimes they cost more, some times they don't, but in any event, you're more likely to get an honest answer to what ails the car. If the shaft gets scratched removing the seal, fine emery cloth can probably polish it up good as new again. I would also suggest buying a Haynes or Clymer repair manual so you can understand exactly what is involved in removing the seal and what exactly seized up!! Good luck to both of us. If I was 10 years younger, I would probably attempt to replace the seal myself.

cheetobandito · August 2006

Just picked this up from a dealer with 26,700+ miles on it. Clean as a whistle inside and out...however; I'm now hearing what sounds like coke bottles rattling around and it seems to be coming from up front. I checked under the hood and can't find anything loose. Rattles on bumpy roads or when I hit a dip on the left or right side. And can't tell where it's coming from....I'm leaning toward something in the suspension. Motor mounts, hoses, brackets, etc all look fine..only place I haven't been is under the thing. :confuse:

old911guy · August 2006

Sounds like the place you need to go IS under it. Mine has a squeal somewhere in the engine, possibly a bearing on something that the fan belt runs over. I am considering trading it on an '06 Prius since it has 77K hard miles on it. Suzukis have come up in quality so much in the last 4 years it isn't even funny. I consider my '02 Vitara a bit of a tin can, but checking out an '06 Grand Vitara, it doesn't look like they were made by the same car company.
On your problem, check the running gear closely, including the wheel and drive shaft bearings. One good place for a rattle is the exhaust system: not just how the pipe runs or may be loose, but the guts of the muffler and/or resonator can get loose and rattle. Also check the exhaust heat shields on the pipe and over the manifold. These are the most likely places that come to mind, and I have had a problem with just those same things over the 45 years of driving. Good luck with it.

workingman6 · August 2006

Just bought 2001 suzuki GV 4wd. Was wondering why my tach shows 3100rpm @ 75 mph. Is this normal. Also went 105 miles and used a 1/2 tank of gas.

old911guy · August 2006

OK, so I'm a coward, or at least taking the coward's way out and am trading in my Vitara on a 2006 Toyota Prius. I have just had knee surgery and it has been very debilitating and I don't have the time to mess with an engine miss or skip, vibrations that did not use to be there, oil getting slung around the wheelwell from an unknown leak and so on. Basically, I think the handwriting was on the wall and it was telling to me get rid of the car before I had to spend lots of money on it and it would have to spend lots of time in the shop. Oh well!

cob · August 2006

I have a 2004 Tracker v6 and the tach is the same around 3100 at 75. I get around 21 miles per gallon and normally have about 150 on the trip odo when I get to half a tank.

trixi · August 2006

Hi Robbo, bonnet release catch is in the glove compartment box on the top left. I'll try and get some photographs of my own roof being taken off to send you- its not half as bad it looks!!!

old911guy · August 2006

Sort of sounds like the electric overdrive switch is "Off", or the transmission is stuck in the power mode (if you have a "normal-power" mode selector switch. My 2002 Vitara had this problem and my mileage/engine rpm figures were similar to yours. Look for indicator lights on the dash that say either "O/D OFF" or "POWER". Good luck with it!

cob · August 2006

I don't have a problem with the RPM'S I was replying to Workingman6 post about his 2001. My O/D switch is on the light on the dash is off. The other switch is in the normal mode otherwise the Power light would be on. BTW if you are in the power mode at a steady speed the RPM's are the same as if you were in the normal mode. The only difference between normal and power is during acceleration where the shift points change.

workingman6 · August 2006

No lights on the dash. But thanks for answering my message.
RPM's just sounded high to me. Thanks again

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