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You can easily get one that's a year or two old (CPO) for that much. Probably closer to 30K if you shop around. Let the other guy eat the initial 10K in depreciation. Both companies have excellent CPO programs as well, so just shop for on that has 20K or less and wasn't a rental.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Anyone have any thoughts on Mercedes? I've always wanted one. My parents had a white one with green interior when I was really small. Maybe a CPO E class? Or are they way more money than I'm thinking. I dont know if the C is big enough.
Just to add, I fell like Mercedes is very over priced. Not that they aren't good cars, just shocked by what they charge for anything beyond base models.
The C class is perhaps the best car in this segment if you want a perfect little luxury car. You want the C300 with only the panoramic sunroof and the spoiler. Sand Beige Metallic is the best combo with the black of the sunroof. White is a close second. No other options. This keeps the cost down.
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2013&listin- - - - - gId=335126964
Here is a typical CPO example. Note how the entire top is dark glass, essentially. Why pay $40K?
Note - the E is basically a stretched C class and offers no real improvements over the C class/it's not really a step up. The C class is quite agile and you really don't need the sport package on it unless you like mountain roads and a non-luxury ride (the tires are just too stiff, IMO)
The CTS was a close second, almost too close to pick between the two. Different looks, but much of the same feel. GM essentially stole away engineers from BMW and Mercedes over a decade or so to work on its new line which turned into the CTS. German built engine, tested at the Nurburgring, and assembled in North America.(so electronics and interior bits are reliable). Honestly it drives almost exactly like a BMW 5 series, but the CPO models are outrageously low priced. Get the luxury model as the sport is far to harsh of a ride. (yes, there's unfortunately a pattern here as of late)
The G37 is basically a Japanese 5 series, IMO. It's put together perfectly, IMO. It feels great, drives great, and looks great. But while it is a great car, it doesn't have the bling factor or *quite* the refinement of the Cadillac or Mercedes. That's usually a major factor with the wife, IMO. :P
Note - IMO, if you want a bit of status as well as luxury, while there are a lot of people leasing BMWs and other makes, almost nobody leases a Cadillac. Poor people don't drive them as a rule. The same image applies to Mercedes as well. Even when I was driving around in my 1967 230S years ago, I got looks from people as it still commanded respect and a bit of jealously as it wasn't anything like a typical sedan. :shades:
Of course, you could get this and be done with it/not need a car for another decade or two:
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?zip=91106listingId=- 3359552
A little bit over budget, but... yeah, it's the real deal. If you're even remotely looking at the E, just get a CPO S. Nobody that I know of has ever regretted buying a S class. Well, I suppose there are some, but... very few. Black, white, and green are the only colors. It's like a Ferrari. Red or black. Anything else is just wrong.
I am absolutely new to buying a car and need some help here. Apologies in advance if I ask any questions I should have googled - I have been doing a lot of research but like I mentioned I'm a car newbie so please bear with me.
I am looking to spend about 20k and after various test drives of new cars, I realized none of them match up to the luxury feel of a pre-owned ES350.
The ES-350s I have shortlisted are as follows:
1.[B] 2009 ES350 (CPO) with 45k miles and navigation - $20k [/B]- Link - [url]http://www.rockville-porsche.com/certified/Lexus/2009-Lexus-ES+350-130ad7b8- 0a0a004901a53d8fad3f4fcb.htm[/url]
2. [B]2008 ES350 (CPO) with 55k miles, navigation and ultra-luxury package - $22k [/B]- Link - [url]http://www.lexusofrockville.com/VehicleDetails/certified-2008-Lexus-ES_350-- 4dr_Sedan-Rockville-MD/1931645133[/url]
My questions -
1. Between the 2008 ultra-luxury for $22k and 2009 for $20k, which one do you think would be a better deal. Is the ultra-luxury package worth the extra 2k and 1 year?
2. Typically how much can one haggle for a pre-owned in a Lexus showroom? (I understand it's probably case to case but are there any known tips and tricks I should be aware of)
I am planning to move to a new city over the weekend and therefore need to make this decision as early as possible today itself. I would really appreciate any tips as this is a very new experience for me and I'm extremely nervous of spending so much money and having buyer's remorse later.
2. As you alluded, it's pretty tough to say how much you can bargain. It comes down to what they happen to have in the car and how good you are at bargaining. Telling them you're desperate to buy a car ASAP is not going to help...I would start with "what's your best price if we close this deal today". Honestly neither seem like a bad price as-is.
The 2009 with less features is Gray with Black interior.
The 2008 Ultra Luxury Pkg is Sapphire Black Pearl with Cashmere interior (very light).
Would you be happy with either of those two color combos?
The good news about the Lexus CPO warranty is that covers the vehicle for 3-years from the time you purchase the car OR until the car has 100k total vehicle miles. The 2009 has 45k miles and the 2008 has 52k miles, a difference of 7k miles is negligible.
The Ultra-Luxury Package on the 2008 is actually rather impressive. It was a $5280 option when the car was new and it adds all of the following features-
Power Glass Moonroof
Perforated Leather Seats, Heated and Ventilated in front
Rear seat electric blind
Slightly lower profile tires for cleaner, upscale look
Rain-sensing automatic wipers
Memory settings for Side Mirrors, Steering Column adjustments and Driver’s Seat
Bluetooth Audio
Lexus Premium Audio System and Navigation System
Voice activation functionality for NAV and Bluetooth devices
Wood & Genuine Leather Steering Wheel and Gear Shift Knob
Rear Seat Side Airbags
HID (high intensity discharge) headlights
Adaptive Front Lighting System (AFS) beams turn at same angle as front wheels, literally lighting around curves or corners
Out of these extra features, the ones that appeal to me the most are-
Perforated, Top-Quality Leather Seats with Heated and Ventilated (cooled) Front Seats
Upgraded Lexus Premium Audio System
HID headlamps with AFS
Real wood and genuine leather steering wheel and wood shifter knob
Those are all features that I have experiences in various Lexus models and they definitely make the interior feel much more luxurious.
Unfortunately, the 2009 doesn’t have a lot of detailed info listing options other than Navigation. It doesn’t even have photos of the actual car, just stock Lexus photos.
I checked the pricing of both cars with KBB and Edmunds and both cars are fairly priced, especially the 2008 which has a CPO Retail value of up to $26,125 according to KBB! The 2009 is worth around $22,500 unless it has more high-value options that I didn’t’ include in the calculation.
If you like the exterior and interior colors of the 2008 model, I strongly suggest going for that one! It is only $2000 more and you will probably keep this car for 5+ years! Pamper yourself and go for it! It’s a wise investment also because the Ultra Luxury Package will increase the value and make it much more desirable when the time comes that you do sell it or trade it in on a new one!
Also if I read correctly the newer one has a dark interior vs the older one has a light interior. Depending on the region you live in, light interiors can get dirty quite fast if you live in a region with lots of rain, slush, mud, and will age your vehicle quite fast.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
"problem" - especially since I have some of the same issues as his & your parents
(of which, at 70, I'm either same generation or older).
I'd really like a wagon - as a widow I need some hauling capability, but few out there. Want lux & "badge" on inside more than outside. Looked at CTS wagon - but the lux, gets expensive very fast (as a 70 year-old, still too much image of "senior" wealthy man.)
My car history: VW bug, Karman Ghia, '70's Audi Fox, 76 BMW 530i, '88 Acura Legend, '97 Infiniti I30 t (only car didn't like - felt too much like going to weekly
ladies' club meetings) , 2003 Murano SE. Suggestions for next GREATLY needed. Hot/cool 'bout CPO 2010/11 Infiniti FX 35 - it's the outside that bothers me, not the inside. ANY help much appreciated.
It is unfortunate that the best larger wagon out there is the CTS. Which GM has decided to do the typical markup on that you'd typically see with a convertible. That is, just because they can and not because the car is really any different other than one part of the car being different/changed.
Cadillacs drop value like a stone, though, so a CPO wagon can be had a couple of years old for $30K or less. But that's true for most luxury cars. You are best to buy them CPO and keep them until the wheels start to rust off. That said, the CTS wagon does drive well and not like a SUV.
Yes, the Inifniti simply looks like a boot on wheels. It's oddly squashed and curved and looks just a bit off to my eyes as well. Nice car inside, though. Drives great. Just that Japanese styling as of late is looking more and more like a cartoon. They even try to make the cars have "faces" on them. :P
The only other luxury wagons out there that are any good, are the Audi A3 and A4 allroad since 2012, the Volvo C30, and the E class wagon (pricey).
My vote based upon your previous cars is the A3 since it's like a luxury version of a Fit or Mini but it actually is a proper car instead of a fashion statement for young people. It can also be had with a TDI engine which gets it hybrid mpg and a bit of bling not because of the price but because it does something other cars don't. The price, new, is also quite reasonable. The A4/Allroad is the same thing but bigger. It also has the excellent (real) AWD system as well.
The only down-side is that Audi is stopping importing all wagons for next year according to my local dealer. So supplies are getting tight unless you want to pay to have one made and wait 2 months.
As for SUVs and Crossovers, the best is still the original, the Lexus RH. The Cadillac SRX is basically a CTS on steriods. Id's rate this as 2nd choice if it weren't the fact that the CTS wagon is a better vehicle in almost every way, especially gas mileage and handling. A CPO RH is about the only crossover that I'd recommend. Not because it is better than the others so much as it doesn't fail in critical areas or drive like a truck like most of the others.
That said, I got my car back from the shop yesterday and I did miss it. It's got two strikes, next problem I'm getting rid of it and look at the C300 and CTS.
That Honda V6 others mentioned is great on paper, and I dont care too much about badge (again I'm driving a Kia Optima SX atm) but it just looks like a boring car. I would end up checking it out though in person to see if my opinion changes.
to open into space rather than door panel); very small back seat & trunk but has
luggage fit to it. I & brothers still have, paying thru nose for repair to sell! Would
LOVE to buy brothers out but can't afford!! (And, of course has NO hauling!!)
Pletko - do you have my number!! 'Tho I haven't ridden in/driven it, I think (except for $) my ideal car would be an Audi Avant 6 (no longer sold here). Daughter thinks an A4 would be great for me, I think it's too small - plus not sure I'm up for repair costs. Car & Driver are Audi maniacs;however, the Allroad hasn't received their supreme approval. Lexus has always been "squishy" driving to me-comfort over tight suspension. Car I almost bought ('cause of no real wagon alternative) 'till I discovered last year was it's last was the Mazda CX-7
because of it's more "sporty" handling.
Soooo many thanks for your help - both of my daughters are ready to disown me due to my lack of decision-making on this problem!!
It's a great car. And a shame that it looks like 2013 is the last year it will be imported.
So I'm selling my 2003 Toyota MR2 Spyder because I've come to realize it is not a very practical car for a 21 yr old Law Student. I need help deciding what kind of car to get. I've been researching and researching (more than I have been for school) but I cant seem to narrow down my choice, so I must turn to your wise hands for help!
What I'm Looking For:
-Reliability
-Speed
- Uniqueness
- Gas Efficiency
- A Sedan
- Below 90k miles
- 03 at the oldest
I know realistically that all of these qualities can't be found in a single car, but I want the most that I can, with Reliability being the most important!
What I've looked at:
-Audi A4
- VW GLI
- Acura TL
- Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V
- Saab 9-3
Any information on what is better (or even a new car I haven't mentioned) would be incredibly helpful. I'm going insane trying to pick the right car!
I should also mention that my price limit is 10k, but below that is fine too!
Also I live in Chicago, so snow is a factor.
Nick
If reliability is your number one priority, then you might as well remove the Audi A4, the VW, and the Saab 9-3 off your list.
The Audi and VW will have frequent issues and cost more than average to repair and the Saab 9-3 will be expensive, as Saab has been discontinued, parts are scarce and expensive, and it might be harder selling it later on.
Teh Acura TL is a very good choice and the Nissan Snetra SER too. Personally I'd go for an Acura TL and would also suggest a Subaru Legacy sedan GT. They redesigned them in 2004 so 2004 and up you can find for under $10k.
In my opinion they are nice cars, reliable, somewhat sporty, look good, and have AWD, and are within your price range.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Thanks again!
Nick
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
Then when it was time to sell it, everyone was scared to buy it because of parts availability and small network of repair shops to fix the cars.
Volvos are decent but I do't trust them personally. Every Volvo I ever came across in my 10 years of auto sales, whether it was a 10 year old Volvo, or a 3 year old Volvo, had some sort of an electronic issue.
Looks if you want reliability and luxury, then go for a Lexus, but otherwise if you choose anything European, prepare to spend a good coin on upkeep and maintenance.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Any suggestions of an affordable domestic car that can meet some of my "wish list"?
In any case, for your price cap, you'd have to go to a pre-'04 TL, which I believe only came with an auto trans that has reliability issues.
I'd also suggest avoiding the spec V. It has a fatal flaw where the precat can spit debris back into the engine and destroy it.
And, as previously pointed out, you can write off Audi and Saab if you want trouble-free motoring.
So we have the aforementioned 3-series if you can overlook the commonality of it. An '04 325i is actually cheaper than a TL. A base model with under 90k could be had for about $7k retail, while a more loaded model would push $9-10k. Snow isn't an issue with snow tires.
NOW, a VW... you could feasibly get an '07 GLI very close to your cap. That would be the far more reliable 2.0T. There are a couple of issues to be on the lookout for, so you'll want to get it checked out. The biggest being the fuel pump cam follower. If it was ever let to wear through, it can score the cam. It can easily be inspected prior to purchase and then its just a matter of checking it periodically and changing it once in a blue moon.
Another suggestion? WRX. Or even a Legacy 2.5GT, although neither of those will return very good gas mileage.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
A G35 or a 3.5 Altima. Only the manual trans because, while gas mileage still won't be great, it is far better than the automatic in the real world. Will be tough to find, though.
I'd also suggest trying out a 2.3 mazda3 5-spd. While not exactly speedy, it is a very fun car. Or, if you can manage to find one, a low-mileage mazdaspeed protege. That will be a bit older, of course.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
yes, because they are cheaper to build.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
I know toyotas are very good but they want a lot of $$ even when they have close to 200,000mi. on them. I'm considering all brands with the exception of the s10 4cyl. I would consider the s10 with the 4.3 v6.
All suggestions welcomed. Thanks!
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
This is simply not true. While you can muddle along at slower speeds without snow tires or chains with a front wheel drive car, you will in no way come close to the performance that you'll get with any car with snow tires. It's exactly like wearing a pair of Converse high-tops to do hiking. Regular tires are simply the wrong tool for the job.
In fact, snow tires will even beat an all wheel drive car with all-seasons on it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlYEMH10Z4s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGfvyPtYR0Y
Comparisons of different tire types
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STaximkaQxo
4WD and normal tires vs RWD and snow tires. The "trick" that everyone in Europe uses is that they have snow tires on all of those German cars which are RWD. Only in the U.S. do we see people who simply ignore reality and figure that they can make due with normal tires wherever they go.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BXupo38Pew
Subaru with all-season tires vs a Mini with snow tires.
When they say "prepare your car for winter" they mean swap the tires and rims when it's going to start snowing. Most people should keep a separate set of winter tires to swap out in their garage. It's a larger initial cost, but given that the each set are only getting used for half the year, it's no more expensive in the long-run.
Or, you can end up on Youtube like this. Your choice:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wp2sqrfGSPI
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
Summer tires actually turn hard at temperatures below 45F. (ouch - that's 1/3 of the year, even in California!) All-seasons are a bit better and are good down to 0C. But beyond that, they are essentially as dangerous as summer tires. It got down to 28 degrees a month ago. And I'm in Los Angeles. All-seasons sort of work in a pinch if there's no snow or if it's cold and the roads are perfectly dry (since the road friction will warm them up just enough after a few minutes), but if there's actual snow or ice, it's way too cold even for "all-seasons".
Note - they really should be called "three season" tires. Winter is simply not their place.
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/safetyBelow45.dos
Watch the little embedded video. It's not the snow that's the real problem so much as the winter tires stay soft enough down to about -20F. Below that, of course, you really do need chains or studded tires.
Of course, the opposite is true as well. Above 45F, winter tires are basically racing tires and wear incredibly quickly. So most people use all-seasons in the spring through fall and then switch to winter tires when the first snow comes.
Note - if you have a truck and are running Mud Terrains on it, they are essentially snow tires compound-wise. Which is why you typically get 30K out of a set. This is why a lot of SUVs also end up in the ditch. All-terrains are the same rubber as all-season tires. And while they will work a bit better due to bigger treads, the tread blocks also get rock-hard when it's below freezing. This is why you see all serious off-roaders just running with MTs on all year round and dealing with the need to swap their tires every other year. They aren't as good as dedicated studded snow tires (tend to pack with snow quickly), but at least won't get hard when it gets below freezing.
Escape is self generating (good idea) but once your USA govt starts cut backs on incentives, look out.
Or maybe a bicycle.
One more question: Would it be wiser to buy a Toyota with 170,000mi compared to a domestic truck with 100,000mi?
Thanks again for any replies!
Thanks again for your reply.
Personally, I'm a big fan of the Dodge Dakota. While not as compact as the others, I consider that an advantage. And, heck, if mileage is not a factor, it was offered with a v8. I've seen decent low-miles examples for darned cheap.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
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Toyotas come at such a high premium that I've started looking at the domestics, but also want reliable transportation. I have also ben looking at the Nissan Frontiers.
Ive been driving myself crazy trying to find that perfect car. Maybe someone here can help me out. Here are my needs for a used car.
-I need cargo area at least the size of my 4th gen maxima for my business (15 cubic feet I think)
-I want to spend under $16k (I may be able to stretch it a little)
-Comfortable seats that can accomodate a taller person like myself (6"2 with lower back herniation)
-somewhat quick, at least as fast as my current car (something in the high 14's low 15's)
-reliable
-Id prefer not to have a car that uses premium, maybe even somewhat efficient with gas (28mpg or higher on highway and at least 20 city)
-I dont want a boat of a car that cant maneuver or park easily.
-somewhat quiet cabin.
Can be a regular car, econobox, hatchback, or smaller suv, even a coupe(I doubt this will work).
Can be japanese or domestic (no germans or swedes)
Thanks in advance all
A few cars I have looked into.
-Honda accord 2009 v6 (Heard a lot of complaints about this generations seats being uncomfortable along with many complaining about rear brake problems)
-2011 sonata looked good, but people have said the seats aren't the most comfortable along with the car starts falling apart fairly quick (loud road noise, and lots of interior cabin noise).
-2010 subaru legacy 2.5i (too slow)
-Altima v-6 uses premium fuel and doesn't get the best mileage.
-Ford fusion v6 2010 (Tranny problems)
-Ford Focus 2012 hatchback (not reliable, and not sure about comfort)
-Acura tsx 2006 (takes premium fuel but get decent mileage to offset it, kind of old and outdated at this point)
-2013 Altima 2.5 - great seats and nice quiet cabin, muted driving experience along with lots of complaints with the 2.5 already.
-Mazda 6 2010 v6 - fairly bad mileage
-Nissan Juke - loved everything about the car except the seats when I test drove it
Cars I need to check out in person include
-2009 Toyota rav 4 v6
-2010 Toyota Camry v6 (Ive heard this is quite an uninspiring car)
-2011 Sonata just to double check it
-2010 Mazda 6 2.5 4 cylinder maybe its not so slow
-2010 mazda 3 hatchback while im trying mazda's
I think thats it, as you can see I'm all over the place
You might also confirm the Altima "requires" premium fuel before ruling it out. I have a coworker with an '07 and absolutely loves it with over 150k miles. Very quick and comfortable. Most later Nissans (i have an '08 Pathfinder) state "premium fuel recommended for maximum performance". I run premium when towing...and can tell a difference under heavy load but generally I have run regular gas for 90k miles with no complaints.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere