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Comments
To Subaru for abandoning a non-starting car because they lack the technical expertise to trouble shoot it, Shame On You.
Anyone heard if Subaru is giving us a Patti replacement for the forum's issues?
Larry
On your ticking noise -- did it start right after the oil change, or did you have it previously??
Craig
IIRC, the non-start occurs when cold.
Maybe the cold is affecting the conductivity between ignition cylinder and key that the chip in the key isn't getting juiced up to transmit the codes?
-Dave
The deeper ticking noise, at a lower frequency, seems to be a single mechanical noise. I thought I heard it a couple of times when she's started the car in the last few weeks (I'm used to all the "usual" noises because I'm sitting in the kitchen having my coffee when she starts the car). You can hear this noise in the kitchen (25ft or so) w/no problem. The hard part I had was isolating it.
BTW, Blackstone's last analysis said I could "push" the oil changes to at least 4k w/no problem, so I let this one go to about 3800.
Larry
Mickey Mouse beats not being able to get to work. I'm not suggesting living with this forever, I'm suggesting an alternative.
Flatbedding the car to the dealership is nonsense when, as seems to be the case here, the bouncing and jostling makes the symptom disappear.
I'd keep up on the documentation, I'd learn EXACTLY how Lemon Law works in my state, but I'd also try to have a backup for when the car doesn't start, and I think you have an obligation to work with your dealer, as much as he has to work with you.
Next time, get a tech to the car, not the other way round. And I'd still get the switch, but that's me.
-Mathias
I posted additional details to you over in Problems & Solutions earlier today. SoA must insist that the tech come to the car and catch it in the act. Everyone is wasting time and money bringing the car to the shop.
Steve
what gives ?
HTH
Larry
As to the switch, I can see a dealer invalidating the entire claim because they hooked up anything to the electrical system. I'd agree that's not fair, and dirty pool, but I've seen dealers use any, and every, excuse to get out of a claim.
It's fairly obvious the dealer doesn't want to play anymore and is going to need a nudge (or lemon law threat) to proceed further.
Larry
When you get adversarial the dealers clam up and stop helping, you tend to get nowhere.
Just my unscientific observation.
-juice
It is getting so irritating I don't want to turn on the heat.
What is it? Did I just call my car an Oyback? That's funny!
Bingo.
Once you're on solid ground with Lemon Law so they HAVE to take it back, you can do whatever. Until then, you have to play ball.
The switch I'm talking about is just a couple alligator clamps, not permanent, and does not hook into the vehicle's electrical system. Just supplies 12V to the starter solenoid.
-Mathias
(who always likes to have a Plan
I am about to install the factory subwoofer on my '02 Legacy wagon. I have the written instructions from the website and the illustrated ones that came with the subwoofer, but both cover AT cars, not the MT. Since the MT shift boot is not the same as the AT slider cover, I am a bit stumped. How does the boot/console come off? Anyone been there/done that?
A reply in the next few minutes would be great if anyone can do that; I am about to head out the door and give it a try.
Stanton
IIRC you start at the back of the center console, there should be screws once you lift up the center arm rest.
I don't remember the details, and didn't take pictures because Pat and/or bitman had showed me photos and instructions I had printed, but I didn't save the URL.
I do recall that I removed the shift knob, and that the console lifted up and out.
I wish I'd taken photos. The info might have come from Scoobymods? That sounds familiar for some reason.
Just don't pry, nothing was hard to remove, and if you use force you might crack the plastics.
-juice
Mark
I was experiencing a lower frequency noise from my 2003 Legacy. The noise was somewhat irregular.
My Subaru mechanic used his 18" screwdriver to diagnose the noise as a rattling cam belt tensioner. He replaced the tensioner and that noise was gone.
Maybe that is your problem.
Good luck.
-Jim
I'm going to bring it up to the dealer next time we bring it in; wanted to make sure it wasn't a widespread flaw.
Thanks,
Jason Boswell
I took it to my mechanic and he fixed some problems however some still linger:
(1) The keyless entry doesn't work (the remote control that is). Also, when unlocking/locking the driver's side door with a key or from the inside, not all the doors unlock/lock. I know they should and I can hear a sound as if they are trying but no luck. Is there a fuse or something that I should look to change? Any way to diagnose the problem?
(2)The car idles a little high after running for a while. When stationary, the car idles a little rough at around 6-800 RPM when i first get in it. However, the longer i drive it, the higher it idles. If it's in drive, it never idles more then 1k RPM. However, if I stop and put it in park or neutral, it usually idles at 1.5k RPM. The mechanic said there is air getting into a valve so fixing it would mean reconstructing the engine. He said it's not a problem and something I'll just have to get used to. Any thoughts?
(3)Finally, the past two days i've noticed that when i'm not moving or moving very slowly, my temperature gauge goes up to a very high level. However, when I start driving faster, it goes back down to normal (1/3 from the lowest setting). I've read that this is probably a sticking thermostat so I plan on replacing that myself. Any other thoughts?
Thanks in advance for the help, it's really appreciated!!!
Martin
2. Not sure. It may be worth taking a look at the timing to see if everything is aligned correctly.
3. Temp running hot during idle and good during higher RPMs, or is it independent of RPMS and literally when the car is in motion at slow speeds? If it is RPM-dependent, I would guess that it is a water pump issue. Mine acted similarly on two separate occasions before it bit the hay altogether. It may be the pump itself, or the timing belt or tensioner may be due for replacement and it is slipping on the surface of the pump pulley. The contact is not "tooth regulated" on the surfact of the pump and it can slip more easily than on the cam sprockets.
I've never had a thermostat sort-of not work. They either do or they don't and if they don't, the car overheats. That's the only reason I tend to not favor the thermostat idea. The pump controls the flow of coolant, so if that isn't working properly, it can slow the flow of coolant and affect the temperature without necessarily leading directly to a serious overheating of the engine.
Craig
-Jason
And the dealer has already basically quit helping (unless it will agree NOW to send a tech out the next time it won't start and I seriously doubt it will agree to do this). So I would definitely take it to the next step with the Utah Department as you JUN) intends to do the next time it won't start. The dealer is basically saying it's a SoA problem, go away.
A caveat..make sure you follow all SoA administrative procedures (usually outlined in your warranty book) for resolving these types of issues. Failure to do so is called "failure to exhaust administrative remedies" and can make it difficult legally to pursue any subsequent legal action.
If you are convinced the dealer has just washed its hands of your car, then you can put pressure on the dealer in the meantime by filing a complaint with the local BBB. Hopefully the dealer then goes back and puts pressure on SoA.
I definitely would not tolerate this on a new car and would definitely not start trying to fix it yourself..that WILL give them a reason not to have to honor a warranty.
And document..document..document in writing and hopefully with a witness when the car does not start AND all contact with the dealer and SoA. You will need it if you ultimately have to go to the mat legally with SoA and/or the dealer.
Just my advice after having had to wrangle with two other manufacturers over the years.
So check the fan thermostat (not the coolant thermostat) and the fans themselves.
Stanton
To flip that around, from the dealer's perspective, if someone told me they were messing around under the hood, and if I didn't have a history with them as a customer, I'd be inclined to be skeptical as to what damage the customer might have caused.
That's why I suggested not touching anything until this gets resolved.
Larry
Wow! What difference in sound! I tried messing with the hi cut and gain controls, and couldn't decide what was better, so I just reset them mid-range as it came out of the box. My audio test was an organ version of Bach's Toccata and Fugue in D Major for the low stuff, and some trumpet work by the Canadian Brass for the treble. With the subwoofer, even the organ pedal notes are solidly there (maybe 25Hz?), and the standard door speakers will be fine for mid-range and highs to my old (high-freq loss) ears.
Stanton
Craig
Very worthwhile $40!! And drain and refill on the MT is easy.
Red Line claims the lube will pay for itself through increased fuel mileage on short trips where the gear lube stays cold. Given the drop in shifting drag, I am inclined to believe it. Regular 75w-90 must be like molasses when it is cold.
Stanton
I put Mobil-1 gear oil in my WRX and loved the lighter shift action, especially in cold weather. But I ocassionally got grinding when going into 2nd gear, so I went back to standard 75w-90 dino gear oil.
Craig
-juice
That is why Red Line specifically recommends the NS oil, which does not have the friction modifiers needed in a limited-slip differential, and which are present in most synthetics (including Mobil One). Any gear lube that says it is compatible with limited-slip differentials is not ideal for gear synchros.
I've had the stuff in there for three days, and there is no gear scratch when shifting, whether hot or cold. I will keep my eyes and ears open, but so far so good.
BTW, is it my imagination, or is the Subie MT also synchro in reverse? It is the first manual I've owned that I have NOT had to touch a forward gear or else wait for the gears to spin down, before going into reverse. No crunch, ever. My SHO needed to be touched into any forward gear before going into reverse, or it would crunch. Ditto our Nissan Stanza, my SAAB 99's, Volvo 122, and Triumph TR-3. (Or at least wait a few seconds for the gear to spin down.)
Stanton
I don't think there is a synchro for reverse. In fact, my WRX was super stubborn about getting into reverse. I couldn't get into 1st above about 5 mph either. I became a double-clutch master with that car.
My 00 Outback, on the other hand, shifted easily into any gear at any speed. The shifter was a lot more sloppy than the WRX, but definitely easier to live with in everyday driving.
Craig
Thanks
-b
Ok. My idea with the remote switch was not a spur-of-the-moment thing; I just bought a beater van with the same problem for m father-in-law, who has trouble finding decent $2 cars any more. Since I made a web page for him (he's 700 miles away and will be flying in), I thought I'd post a link here and illustrate what I meant.
http://www.msu.edu/~steine13/starter.html
And heck no, this does NOT invalidate the warranty. How could it? First up, the only new connection is to the starter solenoid, and secondly, you just take it off before you go back.
If the starter is easily accessible from above, just hook the remote switch up directly. Back in the day, real men just used a screwdriver to bridge the two connectors on the back of the solenoid...
-Mathias
-juice
Two of my old screwdrivers have black marks on them from bridging starter solenoid terminals! It's not an elegant technique, but when you need to get a car off the side of the road and the remote starter switch is at home...
What you are suggesting shouldn't cause a problem with a warranty claim, but I don't think I would go telling anyone at the dealer about it either.
I emailed you about brake pads.
Jim
Does anyone know how to troubleshoot this, do the lenses on the lights come off (how)?
Thanks in advance.
There is a connector where the visor hinge bolts to the roof, and a connector in the overhead console.
Craig
It might be helpful to mention exactly what year and model you have. I have a Haynes manual for mine, but it's a '97.
Aluminum is now 5 times normal and Blackstone thinks getting the engine checked might be a good idea.
As a point of reference the aluminum numbers were 10 ppm at 13500, 4 ppm at 19729 and currently 21 ppm at 26827. Two other points of reference for the curious: 4 ppm is the universal average for all the engines of this type Blackstone has tested. Blackstone also said on my next to last report that I could extend my oil changes from 3k to 4k. This last change was done at 3750 and that it based on the condition of the oil, 3500-4000 was a good spot for the oil.
I'll keep the group posted as to the dealer's reaction. Any takers on "This is normal."?
Larry
Brian
Has anyone had any experience with this solution or have any other recommendations?
Thanks!
kcram
Host - Wagons
Are these standard equipment? I don't recall that I have such covers on my '96. It might be more beneficial to just replace them if the cost is small.