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Comments
It's going to be hard to replace since it has distributorless ignition! :-D
It may be a bad coil pack or corrosion on the coil pack.
DaveM
I think you're right, then, the coil pack would be the next culprit. The coils could be arcing when there's enough moisture in the air, or corrosion may be interfering with the spark.
-juice
Mark
-juice
Not sure if you're still having trouble with this, but I had a similar problem with my 1997 Legacy Sedan. Here's the deal: Code Alarm Programming Button is under dashboard on the kick panel by the driver's left knee, left of the steering column. This is where the clicking noise is coming from. If you can't find it, it might still be tucked up in the wiring harness higher up in that same general area. The botton is recessed in a plastic ring.
This button must be pressed while programming remotes or if the battery was disconnected and the lights are flashing. Turn ignition key to 'On'
Press and *hold programming button* in
After 15 seconds the the door locks will cycle 3 times. Do not release Programming button
Press lock (left) button the remotes to be programmed. The door locks will cycle one time.
Exit programming mode by releasing Programming button under dashboard and turning key to off.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Josh
Also, the car has started jumping out of 5th gear recently. I notice the gear shift lever moves quite a bit forward when coasting and backwards when accelerating. I think it's the pitch stopper but not sure. Again, anyone else experience this? Any help appreciated.
Robert
Since it's outside the 8/100 headgasket warranty, I'd spend the $1.50 or so for the coolant conditioner to see if it helps. If it doesn't fix the leak, you're only out $1.50.
DaveM
Tell us more about the drive belt failure -- what happened??
Craig
jmarceau, "Legacy/Outback Wagons Problems & Solutions (Wagons)" #4393, 14 Mar 2005 11:30 am
Button is under dashboard on the kick panel by the driver's left knee, left of the steering column.
If it's the tinnie winnie li'l button (about 1/8 dia), mine ['98 OB] was located aft of the hood release lever. The button is also recessed on its mount so feeling it out with just the sense of touch is pretty difficult. Visual confirmation may be needed.
I had only have to depress the button to reset which I believe is the keyless entry module. In Mark's case and Josh, I guess it is tied to the factory alarm that I didn't have.
Anyway, hope Mark has gotten the remedy.
Just a note to all who have an alarm/security system in their car. Be it factory or aftermarket. If you're going to change or disconnect the battery, put/send the alarm/security system to valet mode before disconnecting. Should there be a problem with the alarm/security system after reconnecting, you could at least still start the car.
-Dave
Anyway, does anyone know where to find the fog lights for this model? They seem to be similar to if not exactly the same as the 93 models.
Colby
My 2000 Legacy had the jumping out of 5th gear problem at ~91k. There was a blurb on endwrench.com (summer 2003, insider info, pg 30).
However, SOA & Patti said it didn't apply to my car due to the high mileage. Ending up rebuilding the tranny...out of warranty with no assistance from SOA. 8~(
Sorry to pass on bad news.
Jim
Drive belt got loose and squealed a lot. Was told it "failed" and had been replaced. After it was replaced my "cold cranking amps" and "cold starts" improved (upstate NY so I do mean cold) - would the drive belt also drive the alternator in any way?
Thermostats fail by sticking in position. When you first start the car, the thermostat is closed. When the water temp rises to 195 or so, it opens fully, then is supposed to cycle somewhere inbetween open and closed to maintain a steady temp. If it sticks wide open, the temp drops back to cold, and engine performance suffers. When you shut down and the engine returns to stone cold, it eventually snaps back to fully closed.
Count yourself lucky - worst case is when they stick closed - then the motor overheats!
Steve
Cooling will change dramatically when the car is in motion at high speed, as air gets forced through the radiator. That coupled with a coolant mix problem or a bad thermostat "could" create the problems you note.
If the engine was overheating when idled but cooled back down in motion, I would suspect the cooling fan (or fan switch) is bad. But that's probably not the case here.
Any other clues about the cooling issue?
Craig
Craig
even be able to do a correct alignment. They said if they were like that in dec that it was doubtful an alignment could have even been done. This time was a different subaru dealer and I had asked that before and after readings for the alignment be given. Any one else having problems w this?
My dad has squeeky brakes, but even that's not a problem.
-juice
My engine temp issue is really the opposite. Engine temp drops at idle the goes back up slightly when in motion. Then will drop even further at idle the longer I drive. The dealer has supposedly check the engine temp and found it normal. I suggested the coolant mix check. Still waiting to hear.
My other, probably bigger, concern is that of hesitation/lack of acceleration.
Car only has 18K on it so these problems seem especially odd and premature.
thanks
I had an 02 Outback with the H6, and it was very smooth with excellent power delivery (got great gas mileage too). I hope they can figure it out and fix your problem.
Craig
Colby
Try 1stsubaruparts.com they are in Washington state. I thought their catalog was quite thorough.
Jim
Have the car (vdc wagon) back. Dealer checked thermostat, monitored engine temp, checked coolant mix and several other things like Oxygen sensor - all normal. I will just continue to monitor the situation for awhile and look for more clues. Thanks for your help.
bulb that illuminates the fuel gauge on a 2000 Outback? I removed the shroud underneath the steering wheel, but still can't reach anything that feels like the bulb socket.
Regarding coolant mix (percentage of water to Antifreeze)... The coolant mix will affect coolant freezing, boil over and corrosion. I have never seen in any auto theory texts or product literature that the mixture ratio has a significant affect on the ability control the engine temperature.
Here is what Prestone says could cause a continual low engine temperature condition
(Heater delivers cool air): Low coolant level Check coolant level and top off with 50/50 coolant mixture if necessary
Thermostat stuck in open position Check thermostat, replace if stuck in open position or opening too soon
Heater core blockage Flush heater core; see mechanic if symptoms persist
Heater air doors not closing properly See mechanic if symptoms persist
Heater air bound Coolant lines must be bled to remove air pockets
This last problem and solution is quite common.
Jim W.
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-juice
Craig
Craig
Thank You
It hit 60k recently and I was smelling coolant again (usually on the colder days). Took it to the dealer (different one than a year ago as that one is no longer a Subaru store) for the 60K service and, yes, it was leaking again so they replaced the gasket under the warranty. I have sent the paperwork in to SOA for reimbursement and am looking forward to them being good to their word.
In all, both dealers and SOA (so far) have been up front and responsive. These kind of mechanical/technical things happen. The real test is how they deal with it. Assuming I do get the reimbursement for the 60K service, they done right by me.
--K9Leader
Anyway, still looking.
Thanks Jim,
Colby
What kind of turbo is it?
Colby
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Unfortunately, so far, I have not loved mine. I'm interested in knowing if the experiences I'm having with the car are typical, or unique. My current dissatisfaction with the car and the dealership where I bought it has reached the point where I am seriously considering selling it.
Two weeks after I bought the car, it started failing to start on the first turnover a few times a week. When it did finally start, it would surge and rev itself, which you could hear and see on the tachometer. It has continued to do this for the last eight months, in both hot Texas summer weather and our version of "winter" (30-40 degrees.) The dealership insists that since they're not getting any computer codes from the car, there's nothing wrong.
While the owners manual and the dealership told me the car ran on 87 octane, it does not. It detonates ferociously on anything less than 89 octane, and even then, it still periodically pings. It even pings intermittently on 91 octane. I know higher octane gas is better in general, but I bought this car to be my economical dog/bike/camping gear hauler, and I want it to run on 87 octane. My previous car was a Z-28 Camaro, and it required 93 octane. That was cool, because it also had 285 horsepower. If I'm going to have to pay for expensive gas, I'd like some torque or a turbo to go with that, you know?
My car averages 16 mpg in city driving. I drive about 3 miles one way on city roads to work every day, and I'm definitely not putting the lead foot down. The best gas mileage it has ever gotten was 26 mpg, and that was on a trip out of town on mostly highways. Is it me, or does this mileage seem very low for a 4-cylinder car? None of my other friends with Foresters or Outbacks get 16 mpg city. I complained about this to the dealership recently (Austin Subaru in Austin, Texas) and they told me the mileage estimates that Subaru gives out are EPA estimates and thus, are mostly fiction.
I asked them to do a mileage test themselves on the car. They did, by topping off my 89 octane-filled tank with 91 octane, driving it 27 miles, topping it off again and proclaiming to me that it gets 31.3 mpg. There is no way in Hades that it gets 31.3 now or has ever gotten 31.3 mpg, but the dealership service manager adamantly insisted that it does and that if I don't get this mileage, it must be my driving.
Have any of you EVER gotten 31.3 mpg in city driving in your automatic Outback?
I love the design of the car, the room, and clearance, and the interior. I'm beginning to think, though, that my particular Outback is not so sound.
Mine is noticeably better after I liberally spray the bushings with lithium grease, as previously suggested. I just do it concurrent with oil changes every 3k miles.
Cheers!
Paul
Also it did stall two weeks ago when I waited for traffic light.
I even have an extended warranty untill 70K, but how can I reproduce the problem (it is very rare)?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Whenever the car is not moving, you get 0 mpg. It takes an awful lot of driving at higher mpg to weight out the 0 mpg events. That is why stop and go city driving is bad, as well as short trips. On the highway, the car is not necessarily any more efficient, but you tend to have longer "runs" and far fewer 0 mpg events. So the average goes way up.
So, in the end, it's probably not the car -- it's the simple mathematical reality of driving a short distance.
Craig
- Warm hesitation seems to be a common complaint on Subarus, with lots of theories but no cure. Mine has done it for a long time. My wife won't drive it.
- Subaru is taking care of more-recent customers on the headgasket problem. The issue is that they are doing nothing for the 97-99 owners that 1. put the Outback on the map, and 2. are in the market for a new car. After I complained to SOA about replacing my headgaskets, they sent me a six-month coupon for $1,000 off a new Subaru. Despite this, the dealer (Manchester Subaru, Manchester, NH) I bought a Honda Accord instead.
- We live in the city and in pure city driving got 20 mpg. The best mileage we have ever gotten (two different 97 OBW) was 28.4, and that was once. Taking it easy we get up to 27. Average mixed driving is about 25.
These forums here at Edmunds are funny. The Subaru owners ave lots of happy talk, while places like ulitmatesubaru.net report lots of problems. Honda Accord owners seem to report lots of problems here: but on VTEC.net they're mostly happy. Nissan Quest owners here are positively venomous: every one I've met in the RW loves their Quest.
Probably because people who visit those sites are there because they have a 1. a problem, and 2. are not happy about it.
The Edmunds forums are not as much 'funny', but rather a group of individuals, whose common bond is that they either own, or have owned Subarus. Many have owned more that one. I currently own my 3rd (99 GT LTD Sedan) and 4th (03 Outback) Subaru, and will be replacing the GT with an 05 GT LTD.
Happy talk? My GT has given me 121,000 trouble free miles in under 6 years. Other than regular maintenance, and one set of tires and brakes, that's all I have needed to do to the car. Yes, I am happy, and will purchase another. I was so happy with my 2nd (96 Outback) that I traded it for the 03. Reason? Because my wife saw one in Seamist Green, and liked the color.
Mileage has been discussed many, many times. I believe that there is no magic, and sometimes rational number for mpg, where there are so many factors which can affect mileage.
What have you done about your warm hesitation problem? My guess is that it needs a fuel injection system cleaning. Costs about 70 dollars. Cured the problem on the my 96 Outback. Hesitation problems were caused when we started using the car for a lot of short trips, and errands around town, and rarely took it out on the highway.
Just my 2 cents. Rob M.