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Comments
I have a problem with the clutch pedal staying depressed when I lift my foot. When this occurs I have to lift the pedal with my toe then it’s OK for a while. It seems to occur on a random basis.
I can generally tell when it’s going to stick as there is a little less resistance when I put my foot down on the clutch pedal and the gear change is not as smooth.
There is a Service Bulletin which recommends replacing the clutch pedal assembly – this was the dealer’s recommendation as well. I could understand where replacing the pedal assembly would help if there were an interference with the pedal pivot or clevis under the dash. However, in this case the rougher shifting and pedal resistance suggests to me that something else is going on.
Any comments or suggestions would be most welcome. I can be reached directly at, jvaldes**whoi.edu.
Thanks,
Jim
If you have any questions/concerns, please let me know.
I have a nissan altima 93 which stops after running sometimes. when i try to re start, it starts almost for finally dying out, like something is missing. The garage changed the alternator, battery...starter, fuel pump, distributor, fuses have been checked and are ok! but still the problem. they told me that is an electrical problem. when it starts lights of the brake and battery on the board stands on for a while...other told me that problem could come from injector since the car trembles recently after being stopped for an hour...when the car starts after died there is also an acute noise like an electric resistance perceptible...
what most said that probably an electric wire is badly connected or touches the mass...but which one?
Is anyone face these problems before? any help is highly appreciated...
thanks in advance,
anben
All is well in "Alty Land" and hopefully the car will settle down now. I looked back at all my receipts for the last 14 months minus oil changes and 2 tires, and the old girl has cost us some bucks. Granted, all the problems started about the 62k mark. But I'm a bit surprised about the lack of quality with this car. Our Toyotas were much better in this regard.
We're hoping to get another year out of the car and purchase a '06 model, but Nissan is definitely off our short list.
The Sandman :-(
15 mph: measured 607 (maximum 443) AVE 57.
25 mph: measured 561 (Mamimum 730) AVE 50.
CO2, CO and HC data is very clean and perfect. $90 dollar diagnosis say "EGR valve not open completely. Vacuum drops to zero in high REC. replace EGR solenoid assembly". because I doubt the diagnosis, I have not let the garage to replace the parts yet. The listed parts to be replaced are:
1): EGR solenoid $140.
2): BackPressure Transducer Value (BPT) $70.
3): Vacumm hose $12. Plus labor $90.
During talking, the garage said it can try to replace
EGR solenoid first. If the problem still there, then replace BPT. Also I have checked SEL bulb, it is fine since when I turn the key to ON position, I have seen SEL light.
Since any of BPT or EGR solenoid have problem, the SEL light should turn on, but now it does not, according to Hynes Manual, such as code 105. I doubt ECM or some control signal has problem, or some loose connection. Any advices?
or someone have similar experiment? I try to send to Nissan Dealer to diagnosis the problem again.
Your comments are very similar to the result of diagnosis. But what I was confused is Why the SEL is NOT on? If BPT (the transducer) or EGR solenoid is wrong, the SEL should be ON. Does Nissan design it differently at 1997 not to turn SEL on? (since at 1997, it will not check NOx at California).
I have 189K miles on this car and would rather repair it than purchase a new car. Does this sound legitimate or am I being taken. I would welcome any comments or suggestions.
I hope this helps
Sjd
I hope this doesn't happen to mine, you're lucky its yours is still under warranty. goodluck buddy.
If I could do it again, I'd be driving an 3.5 instead of the 2.5..
The 2.5 has WAY WAY more problems than the 3.5
http://www.troublecodes.net/Nissan/
Have the Battery and Alternator Checked.
I dont know exactly how the lighting wiring is designed, but usually, if the circuit is wired first to the Drivers side head lamp, and then has a "surge" of voltage, it will always take the biggest hit over the other light.
I have an 88 Isuzu Impulse that blew out 2 sets of lights due to a bad voltage regulator in the alternator, and a weak older battery.
I kinda noticed funny voltage drops, and then gains when Id turn on certain high amp accessories (such as AC and Rear Defroster) and the voltage would drop from 14.5, down to around 12.5 and then jump back and then drop again. Was subtle sometimes, and violent others. (I have a good volt meter on the dash in the car however).
Its worth a check, and any auto parts store can run electrical tests for you.
I suggest Napa because they typically use decent Battery testers with carbon piles that actually simulate cranking effort.
Another idea is it could even be a loose belt making the alternator fluctuate, but I kinda doubt thats the issue here. (might check just because though).
Hope that helps give you some place to start.
The Sandman
The Sandman
Butterfly Screws
If anyone else has had the problem and knows how common it is please speak up as Nissan will not recognize a problem without a TON of complaints about it. I am just wondering how long they will let this problem go on without fixing it. Imagine if a family had the screws fall into their engine and as they are turning and accelerating to cross some oncoming traffic their car stutters and stalls and they end up getting hit. OOPS....just because Nissan didnt spend $1 to put some loctite on the screws that are vibrating loose people must suffer. It just amazes me. RECALL THE BUTTERFLY SCREWS. :mad:
Rich
Sorry about your troubles.
thanks
I have had a 93 with the heads-up-display for a year now (101K miles) and have been pretty happy with it. About 3 months ago the speedo and HUD stopped working intermittantly. When they are off the car runs fine with good pickup and smooth acceleration. When they come back on they both read 35 mph at idle and the transmission seems to think it should be in 2nd gear when I start to drive. On a hill it is the kiss of death and really annoys the other drivers behind me (there are a lot of hills by me). I skimmed through the posts and did not see anything that helped.
Any suggestions??
It's simple enough to replace except for removing the hose, which can easily be damaged during the process. Have a dish handy, for the old fuel filter will contain, and spill, a quantity of gasoline. Maybe some spare hose just in case there's not enough length to keep the same one after trimming the damaged portion with a razor blade.
I would appreciate feedback from any one who has attempted to do this on his/her own.
I called the dealer, service department, and they can't even find a part number for the led light, they told me that it does not exist.
Could it be a sign that there may be a problem with the parking brake?
Now I see that top part of radiator has grooves and holes which is how the radiator is designed. Since leak is small, will applying epoxy resin at the grooves and holes work/
Can I cover all the grooves?
I just got, yesterday, a replacement motor for this vehicle it cam from a 99 nissan with 100,000 miles on it. I dropped the motor in the vehicle and I am all ready to go except I cannot find my notes on the vacuum lines. I haven't a clue as to the layout of such lines. I have the Haynes manual but it doesn't go into detail and I cannot get enough clear pictures out of it to see where the lines should go.
Does anyone have either a detailed schematic of how the lines run or some pictures of a 99 nissan's engine showing some of the lines?
This is my last resort before I bite the bullet and go to a mechanic..
Any help is greatly appreciated
-Rob
ral160@gmail.com
subhuman :confuse:
If you have a trusted mechanic like I do, call and drop by and see what he can rig up until he can fix it properly.
That's the best I can tell ya for now. If my son goes 2 the Harvard summer program as planned, the Alty will probaly be gone before labor day. If he stays home and works before he returns to his senior year at prep school, we'll keep it so he can use it for a work car and our time table for the wife's new ride will be pushed up to buying around Memorial Day.
Keep me posted on the window situation.
The Sandman