Same problem as posted in 2024, 2030, 2041 - loud windshield noise above 60mph (2002 LX). Visited the dealer this morning and they had to reseat/realign the rubber weatherstrip molding around the windshield. It was popped out at 3 spots (1 on the drivers side and 2 on the roof). It was a 5 min. fix and the noise is gone. Their explanation is that this usually happens when you go to a car wash with a powerful air blowing drying system. The strong airflow from above and aside makes the rubber molding to pop out at some places, which than results in annoying noise at high speed with or without side winds. Probably they are right – the van was in the car wash last Friday morning and the noise was really bad during the 350 miles trip this weekend. Hope this can help some people experiencing same problem – just check the molding and try to push it back with hands, credit card or something that will be safe on the paint.
The TSB only states problem: the clock does not light up with the other instrument lights
corrective action: replace the clock illumination bulb
part info: Clock Bulb: P/N 35505-S84-B02, H/C 5435540
3yr 36,000 mile warranty applies.
as for any directions on what to do or how to do it the bulletin refers you to the service manual for instructions. On Odysseys that means removing the instrument panel...
Talked with dealer who could do nothing and referred to national Honda about why 99's are not included in the extended warranty/refunds on transmission failures. My 99 had to be replaced out of warranty - we were charged over $1000 of the cost. National Honda said "We're really sorry, but 99's not included." When asked why some dealers have replaced them for free out of warranty on 99's, response was "each case is looked at on an individual basis for special considerations." No explanation as to how they can extend it on some vehicles and not others with same transmission. Also said there is no further place I can appeal - "Your concerns have been noted and we are sorry." I am amazed at the loyalty you folks on this board feel toward Honda. This is my first (and last) Honda. GRRRRRRRRR.
I have an '00 Ody with 33K on the clock. Been doing my own oil changes using 5W-30 Mobil 1 at 6,000 miles. At 6,000 miles the oil level is down to the add mark and is really dirty. Is this normal? Anyone else have an engine using any oil?
I don't have any oil consumption on my 99 Ody. Did you break in the engine properly? No high RPMs during the first thousand miles or so? If the rings didn't seat properly that would explain the oil consumption.
Thanks for the quick response. It was broken in by the book. I'm very careful about break-in, in fact, I drove the first 500 miles or so my self because I didn't trust my wife to break it in right. I left the "break-in" oil in to 3750 mi as well. Didn't start using synthetic until 10K. This Honda is the first new car out of the last four (two GM, one Toyota) that has used any oil between changes. Hmmmm, maybe I should plan a trip to the dreaded dealer to check out.
I'm wondering whether the high mileage between oil changes has something to do with it? I never go beyond 3000 miles, even with synthetic, as the oil is usually at the limit of its additive package and the filter is probably losing effectiveness. Have you checked the oil at 3000 miles, and is it still looking very dirty and low?
Check the oil boards in townhall. Some of the guys there have done oil analysis on Mobil 1 and they claim they can go 10k+ miles between oil changes and the oil shows no breakdown. I had an 86 Accord that I used Mobil 1 in after the first oil change, changing it at 7500 mile intervals. When I sold it at 130k miles, the engine was as tight as new and never burned oil.
I changed my 01 EX oil @ 5k, 10k and 15k miles with regukar oil whatever dealer put in. I didn't have any problem with any oil consumption problem. I have been changed oil every 5k and used regular oil and no name brand filter, since last 16 years. My 86 Volvo had 14.5k miles on it before we sold it, 03 Mercury Villager had 17.9 K mile on it before we sold it this year. My other 97 Toyota Avalon has 93k miles on it. Always changed my oil and filter @ ~ 5K, a couple times went to 6K miles. Never had any oil consumption problem or any engine problem.
I'm sure they're right about the synthetics going longer w/o viscosity breakdown, but most experts I've heard talk about this subject agree that the additives package (anti-corrosives, anti-foamants, etc.) and the filter capacity are the limiting factors. Even Mobil sez to change oil at the manufacturer's recommended interval.
You'll have to read the entire thread of postings on the synthetic oil boards to get at what I was trying to say. The lab tests for everything possible, including metal contents, corrosion, etc. All the lab tests come back with very little negative in any of the categories, with some oil having been in there for 15k miles.
to monitor many of the boards here that I used to...so thanks for the info.
If I were changing the oil myself or paying the full cost, I would probably let it go another couple thousand miles (although I do alot of stop and go driving, and in severe conditions during the winter). Fortunately, I have lifetime free oil changes on both my vehicles from the dealers, and it only cost me an extra $15 to upgrade to synthetic, so it's pretty cheap insurance...
I found a Honda Accord (2001)Technical Service Bulletin (TSB 00-097) in a Consumers Report article that suggests cutting the hidden inner lip of the rubber windsheild molding off and then completely filling the cavity between the molding and the body with black silicon sealant. I guess the silicon will prevent the molding from ever popping out again. Perhaps we Pdyssey owners with this intermittent whistling noise problem could advise the dealers of their own TSB.
My van has pulled to the right from day 1. It pulls harder if you accelerate. Taking off from a stop sign, you have to steer the wheel to the left to keep it going straight. Originally the wheels were out of alignment, but correcting that (at 687 miles on the odo) did not correct the problem. The dealer gave up, stating that he cannot find anything to fix. So, I got the BBB Autoline and American Honda involved. Am. Honda sent a Honda Field Engineer out to check my van out. He could not find anything out of spec. Tires were checked, rotated, etc. Alignment was altered to try to compensate for the pull. Honda then told me that the pull is a normal characteristic of the van. So I took them to BBB arbitration, and WON. The resolution at this point is to allow Am. Honda one last chance to fix it. We shall see. Don't let Am. Honda pass off the pull to the right as normal. It is NOT. I have driven many other 02 Odys. If this is normal, they would all pull to the right. They don't. If yours does, persist until you get a fair resolution. Make sure they know that you will not stop hounding them until it is FIXED.
You have a 240hp engine pulling a 4400lbs vehicle. I assume you mean 17mpg. Driving habits mean a lot when it comes to gas milage. When I drive around the city, I take the 2700 lb 160 hp vehicle that gives me 25mpg around town. For traveling, I use the Ody.
Not to mention it's barely getting broken in at 500 miles - the general rule of thumb is that mpg improves with age (for the first 5 to 10,000 miles anyway). Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
There's no active discussion dedicated to breaking in, but "Breaking In" a new van in the archives may be of interest. There are some others you can find by putting "break in" in the Town Hall search box on the left sidebar.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
i just picked up my new odessey and was clearly told by the dealer ,to my surprise that there is no break in period or special driving instructions for this car.i need your advise on what to do and when to go in for my first service and oil chage . idid feel that the trany was not shifting like a regular car.
I have a 2003 Ody EX-L with 720 miles on it. As of now I am getting about 14mpg and that sucks royally!! I plan to take it back to the dealer to have this looked at, but I don't think more miles on it or a tune up is going to make it any better. My 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan SE (3.3L V6) was getting better mpg than that. If anyone has experience dealing with this issue I would like to hear from you.
Poor mileage is typical for initial break in period. I got 12 mpg on my first tank but it eventually improved to about 20 mpg average and up to 25 mpg on highway driving. Give it a few thousand miles to break in and be easy on the accelerator. YMMV.
12 miles is better than 170/20= 8.5 miles per gallon. Do you think I have a problem. The Honda service station said it is normal. I only have 500 miles on my car todate.
The math is 170 miles / 20 gallons = 8.5 miles per gallon.
Please tell me, do you work for Honda or for a Honda dealer? Do I have a problem? Everyone keeps writing about a break in period of 14/mpg etc but ont 8.5 miles per gallon!!
Our 00 gave us around 14 mpg at first and it has steadily improved to appx 19 mpg that we get today with mainly suburban driving. On a good highway drive, we are around 22 mpg.
You have to give it at least 5,000 miles to see if it improves.
Hondablues - did you really pump 20 gallons into the 20 gallon tank? If so you are running it dangerously close to empty and could damage the fuel pump.
Only If your tank was full to the top and you put 20 gallons in at 170 miles is your math correct. Next time you fill up, fill it to the top., set the trip odometer to Zero. The time after that, when you fill up fill it up, try get it exactly as full as you did the previous time. Now divide the the miles on the trip odometer by the number of gallons you just put in.. Something like 295 miles divided by 16 gallons = 18.4 MPG is much more probable. You would have to have a fuel leak to get mileage that bad.
Remember that the gas gauge on the Ody is not very accurate. The flat design of the gas tank lends itself to allowing for marginal, at best, readings. You cannot estimate gas consumption by how much gas you suspect is left in the tank. You must take the gallons pumped at fill-up divided by the miles traveled from last fill. I highly doubt anyone is getting 8 miles per gallon.
Break in on any vehicle is sort of a tradition from our father's days. While I don't advocate revving any new engine to redline, I don't think it's necessary to do anything special during the first couple thousand miles either. The myth about allowing the rings to seat properly is just that, a myth. How long do you think a race engine is broken in? Consider that in normal driving, an engine speed of 1500 rpm is maintained. That's the equivilant of 1500 piston travel sessions per minute. A one-hour drive would exercise a piston and it's components (rings, bearings, wrist pins, etc.) 90,000 times. If the rings aren't seated by then, they're never going to seat. So drive the van, or any new car, like you normally would and forget about it.
I try to avoid really hard breaking for the first 1000 miles or so, to keep from glazing the pads. Of course, this assumes all those other drivers will accommodate me. Or am I thinking of glazed donuts ?
Steve (Host) - Just looked at the linked discussion on breaking in. Did you mention that don't idle the car for more than 10 minute just to warn up the car. Is this for the break in period only? People said this is totally not necessary if you can just drive a few block or not to speed up to the highway. You car is warning up by driving slowly. Any suggestions?
I never let a car idle whether it's new or not. Just take it easy for the first mile or so. I'll even shut the engine off if I get stopped by a train or drawbridge, etc. (Not many of either in Boise, but I do get to Seattle occasionally ).
Ok, when I lived in Anchorage, I did idle the car some when it was 20 below so I could get the windows cleared.... Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Thanks Steven. Well, I warm up my 93 Accord with the remote starter since I bought the car & the remote starter in 1993. I use it almost everyday or every time before I drive it. I don't have any problem with engine. I have average 20 mpg (18 to 21). I am also think about the remote starter when buying the new Odyssey (still in the market). I just want the car be ready for the kids in the morning. By the way, is the Honda Insight and Toyota Prius has the similar feature to shut off the engine when idling?
That's too much work for me and one more remote to keep track of. I have enough trouble just keeping track of the keys. I just get in and go (albeit gently at first - usually ).
Both the Insight and Prius turn off the gasoline engine when it is not needed, such as when sitting at a stop light. Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
All new Hondas have antitheft function built in its key. Honda key has electronics built in it needs to be programmed. If you want to remote start new Honda you have to work around the antitheft system. I heard people done that not sure its a good idea or not.
I have a 2000 odyssey 50K miles and the left break pad keeps on making squeal/chirping noise constantly while driving a low speeds (25 to 35mph). I have taken it to the dealer and mostly been given the brush job. The noise stops when I apply the break and when I let go, it sqeeeels like hell. Very annoying, when you are pulling into the neighborhood. I am also having transmission problems where the trans makes a thug noise or is very sluggish. The dealer told me they needed to blow-out the carbon ($$$) and change the trans oil. I am not sure sluggish performance, carbon and transmission oil, how they are related to each other (another brush job). Right now I am more in favor of just getting rid of the thing and say goodbye to my 1st and last Honda.
We took delivery on our 02 LX Ody in Early August after ordering it in MAY! After about 1K miles of suburban driving with 16-18 mpg we took it on a vacation trip to the mountains averaging 22- 24 on the road going and 28 on the way home (all highway cruising).
At 3000 miles the service engine light went on. The dealer replaced the gas tank pressure sensor. At 3500 miles it went on again. This time they replaced the main engine computer module.
They also notified us that the first oil-change is no longer free (beginning with the 2000 model)
Hopefully they've solved the problem. We loved the space, the ride, and the handling on the trip. Couldn't have asked for more.
Well!!! how about some information. Have you ever had the brakes relined? Sound like the brake pads are worn or it could be the worn indicator telling you to get the brake checked or a foreign object cought in the pad. Did you have the 30k transmision service done?
Two issues with our 95 Oddy. First, after we lock the vehicle (via key or the PDL button) the car will continue to lock many times. Sometimes I walk by the car at night and hear it start locking (for no apparent reason).
Unrelated issue--at least I believe it to be unrelated as the door issue came first-- someone disconnected my battery and I don't have the security code for that piece of crap factory stereo. (Who the heck would steal that anyway?) Any know the steps to remove the radio. Dealer says they will give me the code once I give them some number on the back of the stereo.
Even if you don't know the answers, does anyone know of a more technical owners group or board that might be a better venue?
Pre-'99 stuff isn't too common. You might try our Advanced Search; otherwise I'd suggest altavista.com or google.com. Don't forget to crosscheck the Isuzu flavor too. Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Just want to know beside those driving condition during the break in period. What other things should I know during the first 1000 miles? Is it good to change the oil at 1000 miles? What about the transmission fluid? I couldn't find more information on the Town Hall discussion about Break in.
Break in information is in Owner's Manual. You could scroll back there are posts talking about it. DO NOT change oil @ 1000 miles, keep in there and change per your driving condition (normal or server). No need to change tranny fluid either.
You might want to try an independent garage. If your brakes are fine (as indicated by the delaership) you could have something else going on in the front. As afar as the tranny is concerned, I would get that checked out by the dealership. Honda has issued an extended warranty on the transmissions for the Odyssey.
I have done that with every vehicle I've owned and did it with my 99 Ody EX. Currently has 148,000 miles on it; and there is absolutely no - as in zero - oil usage between changes. The engine runs like a champ. I wish I could say the same for tranny as it is now slipping badly.
Our 2001 Ody with 27,000 miles has the TCS and Check Engine Light on again. I have an appointment with the dealer next wednesday, but am afraid that the lights will go off again before then and the dealer will say "what's the problem?". Anyone here had experience with this? What is the problem and how is it fixed? thanks
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Comments
Visited the dealer this morning and they had to reseat/realign the rubber weatherstrip molding around the windshield. It was popped out at 3 spots (1 on the drivers side and 2 on the roof).
It was a 5 min. fix and the noise is gone. Their explanation is that this usually happens when you go to a car wash with a powerful air blowing drying system. The strong airflow from above and aside makes the rubber molding to pop out at some places, which than results in annoying noise at high speed with or without side winds. Probably they are right – the van was in the car wash last Friday morning and the noise was really bad during the 350 miles trip this weekend.
Hope this can help some people experiencing same problem – just check the molding and try to push it back with hands, credit card or something that will be safe on the paint.
problem: the clock does not light up with the other instrument lights
corrective action: replace the clock illumination bulb
part info: Clock Bulb: P/N 35505-S84-B02, H/C 5435540
3yr 36,000 mile warranty applies.
as for any directions on what to do or how to do it the bulletin refers you to the service manual for instructions. On Odysseys that means removing the instrument panel...
TIA.
Thanks for the quick response. It was broken in by the book. I'm very careful about break-in, in fact, I drove the first 500 miles or so my self because I didn't trust my wife to break it in right. I left the "break-in" oil in to 3750 mi as well. Didn't start using synthetic until 10K. This Honda is the first new car out of the last four (two GM, one Toyota) that has used any oil between changes. Hmmmm, maybe I should plan a trip to the dreaded dealer to check out.
I have been changed oil every 5k and used regular oil and no name brand filter, since last 16 years. My 86 Volvo had 14.5k miles on it before we sold it, 03 Mercury Villager had 17.9 K mile on it before we sold it this year. My other 97 Toyota Avalon has 93k miles on it. Always changed my oil and filter @ ~ 5K, a couple times went to 6K miles. Never had any oil consumption problem or any engine problem.
Anyway, it was just a suggestion...
If I were changing the oil myself or paying the full cost, I would probably let it go another couple thousand miles (although I do alot of stop and go driving, and in severe conditions during the winter). Fortunately, I have lifetime free oil changes on both my vehicles from the dealers, and it only cost me an extra $15 to upgrade to synthetic, so it's pretty cheap insurance...
Best of luck to the few with this issue!
HUH? Did you mean 17 miles per gal????
I assume you mean 17mpg. Driving habits mean a lot when it comes to gas milage. When I drive around the city, I take the 2700 lb 160 hp vehicle that gives me 25mpg around town. For traveling, I use the Ody.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Can you link me to a discussion or advice on break in period?
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Thanks,
Tom
The math is 170 miles / 20 gallons = 8.5 miles per gallon.
Please tell me, do you work for Honda or for a Honda dealer? Do I have a problem? Everyone keeps writing about a break in period of 14/mpg etc but ont 8.5 miles per gallon!!
You have to give it at least 5,000 miles to see if it improves.
Hondablues - did you really pump 20 gallons into the 20 gallon tank? If so you are running it dangerously close to empty and could damage the fuel pump.
Break in on any vehicle is sort of a tradition from our father's days. While I don't advocate revving any new engine to redline, I don't think it's necessary to do anything special during the first couple thousand miles either. The myth about allowing the rings to seat properly is just that, a myth. How long do you think a race engine is broken in? Consider that in normal driving, an engine speed of 1500 rpm is maintained. That's the equivilant of 1500 piston travel sessions per minute. A one-hour drive would exercise a piston and it's components (rings, bearings, wrist pins, etc.) 90,000 times. If the rings aren't seated by then, they're never going to seat. So drive the van, or any new car, like you normally would and forget about it.
Or am I thinking of glazed donuts ?
Ok, when I lived in Anchorage, I did idle the car some when it was 20 below so I could get the windows cleared....
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Don't warm up your car for 10 minutes, it's not just unnecessary, bad gas mileage also not good to your engine.
Both the Insight and Prius turn off the gasoline engine when it is not needed, such as when sitting at a stop light.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
All new Hondas have antitheft function built in its key. Honda key has electronics built in it needs to be programmed. If you want to remote start new Honda you have to work around the antitheft system. I heard people done that not sure its a good idea or not.
bjk
What exactly did the Honda service center say about your gas milage?
Thanks,
Tom
At 3000 miles the service engine light went on. The dealer replaced the gas tank pressure sensor. At 3500 miles it went on again. This time they replaced the main engine computer module.
They also notified us that the first oil-change is no longer free (beginning with the 2000 model)
Hopefully they've solved the problem. We loved the space, the ride, and the handling on the trip. Couldn't have asked for more.
Unrelated issue--at least I believe it to be unrelated as the door issue came first-- someone disconnected my battery and I don't have the security code for that piece of crap factory stereo. (Who the heck would steal that anyway?) Any know the steps to remove the radio. Dealer says they will give me the code once I give them some number on the back of the stereo.
Even if you don't know the answers, does anyone know of a more technical owners group or board that might be a better venue?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
during the break in period. What other things should I know during the first 1000 miles? Is it good to change the oil at 1000 miles? What about the transmission fluid? I couldn't find more information on the Town Hall discussion about Break in.
Break in information is in Owner's Manual. You could scroll back there are posts talking about it. DO NOT change oil @ 1000 miles, keep in there and change per your driving condition (normal or server). No need to change tranny fluid either.
thanks