Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)

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Comments

  • bdaddybdaddy Member Posts: 171
    Buy a six pack of your favorite brew. Drink all six cans while admiring your new vehicle. After drinking the last one, crush it and throw it at your vehicle, giving you the satisfaction of having dinged it first. This will also empart a very powerful mojo that will prevent the vehicle from getting dinged again by idiots in the parking lot. Then just stop worrying about it and drive the thing like you normally would.
  • scottr513scottr513 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 LX with 33,000 miles. Dealer tells me I need new break pads and the tire wear will require me to buy a new set of tires in the near future. Both items seem awfully early to require replacement. Does anyone else have this same situation? any comments?
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    You have the LX which came with Firestone tires. I'm surprised they lasted that long. Try the Michelins. Don't forget the Oddy tips the scales at around 4400lbs and it takes more brake to stop it. Brake pad wear and gas milage both depend on how the vehicle is driven.
  • mrnimmomrnimmo Member Posts: 271
    >Door lock sounds like a bad door lock actuator.

    They all seem to lock. But who knows.

    >As for the r&r of the radio I will have to check as I dont recall step by step..

    Thanks.
  • merlfredmerlfred Member Posts: 3
    The title says it all
    I replace the tires on my EX at 35,000 (with Michlean XP1)
    And my front disc brakes at 50,000 (using Midas)Brakes cost $120 including an oil change.
  • pat84pat84 Member Posts: 817
    I got 45 K on my front brakes. I got 2 K more on my OEM Firestones. (IN 99 the EX came with Firestones, too). I replaced the Firestones with Michelin s. I got more wear out of those Firestones than other tire I ever had. I now have 66K miles on it and It runs like new. Never had one problem with it.
  • melaniewmelaniew Member Posts: 2
    I am in the process of a lemon law complaint and will have a hearing with judge next month. Since I purchased my Odyssey on March 28, 2002, I have been highly annoyed by rattling (in cool weather) in both rear doors. The noise occurs whenever I drive over slightly rough pavement. After 6 repair attempts, my dealer called Honda, who said that they were designing new door gaskets and that the gaskets would be ready at an unknown date. Meanwhile, they told me to come into the dealer every week and have the gaskets lubricated! I was outraged and filed a lemon complaint. Have any of you experienced similar problems? Please let me know.
  • bdaddybdaddy Member Posts: 171
    Please keep this board updated. My 2002 has a similar born on date. I'd like to know how/if your problem is resolved. Good luck.
  • mliongmliong Member Posts: 231
    I don't know why, but every Firestone tire I have ever owned wore down very quickly and prematurely.

    I thank God that the Odyssey's come with Michelins - definitely much better.
  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    The Firestones that came on my 99 Ody EX went 65,000 miles before they needed replacing. I was really surprised.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I don't want to sound offensive but a lemon law complaint because of door rattles??? And the dealership and Honda seems to be working with you. I'm assuming they will replace the door gaskets with the re-design gasket when they come available. The weekly lubrication of the gasket is probably the temporary solution suggested by Honda until the new gasket comes available. While it is inconvenient to go in once a week for the lubrication, they are at least making an attempt to rectify the problem. Please tell me there is more to your lemon law complaint.

    Agian I don't want to sound offensive, but I just see it as a waste of court time and money esp. if Honda has said solution is coming down the road and they will fix this rattle once they re-design the gasket.
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    Why don't you have them show you how to lubricate your own doors thus saving you the weekly trips. I never heard of any manufacturer buying back a vehicle because of a non-safety door problem, but there is always a first.
  • kidtaxinckidtaxinc Member Posts: 1
    When I was driving the other day, the check engine light and TCS light came on. Since then, the TCS light has gone on and off, but the check engine light continues to stay on. Just wonderin if anyone has experienced this problem and what was the cause? My Ody is 2000 and has 55K miles.
    Thanks!
  • melaniewmelaniew Member Posts: 2
    To clarify my situation with the rear door rattling, the lubrication did no good whatsoever, and Honda cannot tell me when they will have new gaskets out. Driving a $33,000 vehicle with loud rattling is unbearable, and neither dealer nor manufacturer has a solution. According to the Texas Lemon Laws, if an ongoing problem will substantially affect the resale price of the car, the car is a lemon. We'll see how it goes. Thanks for all your comments.
  • rajohnson1rajohnson1 Member Posts: 12
    I have been away from this discussion for quite a while, so I don't know if this issue has been addressed before. Also, does anyone know how to search one particular discussion for a string in any of the messages? I tried searching the town hall, but I could only match on discussion names, not the text in the messages. Sorry for the long preface. Here is my problem:

    I have a 2000 LX, and for (almost) as long as I have had it, the sliding doors would stick once in a while. It was not all the time, and it did not seem to be a big problem, so I never asked the dealer about it.

    Well, after 2.5 years and 41k miles, my wife broke one of the door handles trying to open it, because it was sticking. I took it to the dealer, and they replaced the door handle ($200). I asked about the sticky gasket problem and they said they could replace the gaskets, if I wanted. Since I didn't want this to happen again, I had them replace both gaskets (another $200).

    So I paid $400 to fix a problem caused by sticky door gaskets and a cheap plastic door handle. I have never before heard of anyone breaking a door handle on any other vehicle, from normal use.

    I know I should have mentioned the sticky gasket to the dealer before the 36,000 mile warranty was up, but I still think that Honda should cover this, at least for the purpose of good will to their customers. I asked the service manager, and he said he would talk to Honda and see what they could do. I am waiting now to hear from him.

    Even though I am past the 36k mile warranty, I hope that they would consider the fact that it is still under 3 years old, and this kind of problem is not related to actual miles on the vehicle, as would engine or transmission problems. Also, I hope they would consider the fact that the door handle is made of plastic and that their gasket was sticking for most of the last 2.5 years (I know, I didn't document this problem before 36k miles, and that goes against me).

    Has anyone else had this problem, or had any experience with Honda taking care of a problem after the warranty?

    Thanks,
    Rich
  • pat84pat84 Member Posts: 817
    Oh my. This has been in the Honda discussion since the 99 models. The dealer is to grease your gasket with Shiatzu grease. A llittle of this grease would have saved you $400
  • crkeehncrkeehn Member Posts: 513
    Isn't it more correctly Shin-Etsu grease?

    This is a problem, not unique to the Odyssey. Other vans have also suffered the sticking sliding door. When I purchased my used Windstar, the side gasket had been pulled away from the frame, it was refastened under warranty. Periodically I would have it sticking, luckily not to the extent that the handle broke. Generally I would open the passenger door and apply pressure to the sliding door from the inside.
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    I wish I had a nickle for every door handle that was broken caused by a inferior gasket. I read about a year ago that Honda replaced them with a better gasket.
  • gessgess Member Posts: 90
    My sliders used to occasionally stick so tight it was as if they were locked. A push from inside would open it much easier that pulling from the outside. Since I applied the Shin-Etsu they haven't stuck in over a year. Make sure you lubricate the top seal.
  • bdaddybdaddy Member Posts: 171
    What parts of the door seals are you slathering with your Shin-Etsu? Are you applying this stuff to the gasket material on the doors, the jambs, or both? Any other uses for this miraculous product?
  • gessgess Member Posts: 90
    Just the jambs, Bd. Just the jambs.
  • the_droid_00the_droid_00 Member Posts: 7
    My 2001 Ody with 27,000 miles, had the CEL and TCS lights on. I took the van in for service last wednesday. The codes identified the problem as EGR system clogged. Honda has provided the dealers with an EGR Port Pipe Kit to fix the problem permanently after the dealer cleans out the clogged ports. Problem fixed under warranty.
  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    So that problem has continued on into the 2001 engines, too! I had it on my 1999 and there was a TSB out on it for 1998 Accords. You'd think they would have fixed that by now.
  • pdoalamopdoalamo Member Posts: 11
    Hi all,
    I just got the 2003 HOnda Odyssey EX-L and have had a sliding door problem like this.
    I just want to drop my wife in the front of the store so I just hit the brake pedal and push 'open' button for the sliding door...NOTHING is happened. I have to park the car and force to open it manually. I haven't seen this problem like that on the Toyota for example.
    That is really annoying me since I have to get out and force to open the sliding door almost everytime. I have heard about that problem before but I thought they fixed in the 2003 model. Guess what, the problem has not been fixed yet.
  • phil47phil47 Member Posts: 394
    when you tried to open it. If not, it's not supposed to open (it will beep and not open). Just depressing the brake is not enough...you need to put it in Park.
  • branch15_5branch15_5 Member Posts: 44
    Can you buy this anywhere other than the dealer?

    Arigatou in advance for the answer.
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    As a safety feature, the van has to be in park. When the door beeps 3times it indicates the door is locked or a safety feature is in use. I suggest you park the vehicle and read the owners operator manual while sitting in the front seat. There is a lot to learn.
  • gessgess Member Posts: 90
    Sorry, don't know. Mine was about $15 from the dealer.
  • ocuihsocuihs Member Posts: 138
    For those registered with Honda Ownerlink service/maintenance recalls......

    October 2002

    Automatic Transmission Warranty Extension

    Dear Accord, Odyssey and Prelude Owners:

    American Honda is announcing a warranty extension for the automatic transmission on all 2000-01 Accords, Odysseys, and Preludes. The automatic transmission and torque converter are now covered for a total of 7 years or 100,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the date of original sale. We are providing this warranty extension because a higher than normal number of automatic transmissions in certain vehicles may have problems due to defects in material or workmanship beyond the 3-year, 36,000-mile new vehicle limited warranty.

    How do I know if there is a problem with my vehicle's automatic transmission?
    If you think your vehicle has a transmission problem, refer to the operating characteristics below. Understanding these characteristics can help you decide if you need to call your Honda dealer.

    These characteristics are normal; they should not require you to call your Honda dealer.

    Quick downshifts. The transmission has a computerized control system called grade logic. When going down a hill, even a light touch of the brake pedal can cause grade logic to downshift to the next lower gear. Downshifting helps to slow the vehicle through engine braking.

    Does not always shift through the full range of gears. This can also be caused by the grade logic system keeping the transmission in the optimum gear for different driving conditions.

    Mechanical noise when selecting a forward or reverse gear. It's normal to hear a slight mechanical noise when moving the shift lever from one gear to another. This noise can sound abnormally loud if any of the windows are down and you are parked next to a wall or another vehicle.

    Vehicle may not hold its position when stopped on an incline in gear (may roll backward when the brake pedal is released). This can occur on most Honda-made vehicles. It is one of the measures used to improve fuel economy.

    Hard shifts before the engine warms up. By design, the transmission shifts a little harder when the engine is cold. It returns to smoother shifting when the engine warms up.

    These characteristics are not normal; if you experience any of them, call your Honda dealer.

    While driving, the D4 indicator on the instrument panel flashes.

    An abnormally loud noise from the transmission.
    Extremely slow or delayed gear engagement, upshifts, or downshifts.
    Abnormal gear slippage during upshifts or downshifts.
    Erratic or excessively harsh shifting.
    Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) leaks.

    In the next few weeks, owners of potentially affected vehicles will be sent a copy of this letter along with reimbursement instructions in case they previously paid to have the transmission repaired or replaced.

    It's important to maintain your vehicle's transmission according to the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual. Not maintaining the transmission properly can void the warranty coverage.

    Thank you for your understanding and cooperation in this matter.

    Sincerely,

    AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
    Honda Automobile Division
  • andyzachandyzach Member Posts: 1
    Hej,

    I have had my 2000 Ody at the dealer at least 5 or 6 times for defective power slides. I ask anyone driving one if they have them and have problems. More than 1/2 say yes. Can anyone comment and offer an explanation? The Dealer just shrugs their shoulders and says "its working now!" It at first really upset my young sons for the alarm would go off - finally taught my wife how to "kill" the alarm with the slider door off switch but it has been a real pain in the tush.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    I remember folks posting about front end noise in Ody when turning. Looked through about 500+ posts on this board and haven't found it yet. My 2000 Ody w/ 18K miles has developed a clank or snapping sound on occasion. It usually happens when turning on a slope, mostly when going in reverse. Sound seems to come from right front strut area. It's been happening more frequently with onset of cooler weather. I kind of recall it having to do with replacing/tightening strut mounting assembly. Was there a TSB about this? Would like to be prepared when dealer says that they can't reproduce the noise, or at very least have it documented while van is still under warranty. Thanks.
  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    Is that light coming on becuase of power slides or because of dirty contact switchs on the door frame?

    I'll get that buzzer occasionally. All it takes is cleaning both sides of the contacts in that multi-pin connector on the leading edge of the sliding doors, and it goes away.
  • kwh2kwh2 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I got a 2003 EXL odyssey. It happens from the third day I drive it: I hear noise from left hand side of the driver seat, and the noise only happens when I drive between 50 miles to 70 miles per hour, beyond or below, there is no noise. The noise sounds from the head, doesn't sound like wind noise. In the code morning, I couldn't hear the noise either. I brought it back to the dealer, they couldn't figure a thing. Anybody experiences the similar thing? How is it fixed. Thanks in advance.
  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    Per your suggestion, I changed the linear solenoid on the tranny and drained and refilled it 4 times with 3 qts of ATF. A lot of work, but it seems to be about 90-95% better; although any tranny with 149,000 miles on it (as this one has)may not run any better than this one does now.

    Getting to that solenoid is a lot of work. There's a lot of stuff in the way. I did find that the center tube of the three inside was pretty much clogged up; and I cleaned them all.

    I didn't see a lot of improvement until the 3rd drain and refill of the ATF. The 4th one made the final difference, although it needs to be driven some more to make a final call.

    It looks like you may have saved me in excess of $4,000.00. Thanks a very big bunch! If ever in Atlanta, let me by you a cold one.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    I will keep that in mind the next trip to bama if I get thirsty..lol..Anyhow I hope everything works out, good luck
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Props to you Auburn63! We'll be keeping our fingers crossed for your tranny, Mschafer.

    Steve, Host
  • richcolorichcolo Member Posts: 81
    My wife was driving merrily along in our 99 EX with 64,500 miles when the Check Engine light illuminated. I thought...no big deal, probably the EGR problem that is so well documented here. Well the diagnosis is in and its the Catalytic Converter...I've read and I've searched and I think I'm the first here to need a new Converter. This van has been maintained by the selling dealer on the severe schedule since new because I noted a coolant consumption problem prior to the first oil change. Many attempts have been made to diagnose the source of that problem and as it stands right now the Honda tech line and customer service officially don't believe it is happening, but the service manager at my dealer knows that it is happening. I bought the 6/100 warranty before the 3/36 was up. It still consumes about 1 quart per 5,000 miles of coolant. It uses less than 1 at of oil between changes (at 3,750 mile intervals). It has never idled for extended periods (it lives in a garage) and is run 20 miles to town every time it is stated, so low speed/short trips are not responsible for plugging the cat. It has never had a hitch, as I have a Diesel Pickup for the heavy work. Virtually all fuel has been purchased at one station and there is no chance leaded fuel has been introduced. I have never used any fuel additive. The emissions warranty is covering the work, but I'm at a loss as to why the cat would fail. Does anybody know if Ethylene Glycol (Anti-freeze) is poison to catalytic converters?
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Some emission control devices are covered for longer than 36000 miles. Check your owners manual.
  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    I drove the thing a little over 400 miles today, mostly interstate; but a fair spinkling of local streets, too. The tranny is performing at 95% or so, but on a tranny with 149,000 miles, I think this is about all that can be expected.

    No stored or pending DTC's after the trip. I think your suggestion was an EXCELLENT one. I spent about $200.00 and 2-3 hrs of my time. This compared to about $4,000.00 that the dealer wanted for a rebuilt tranny.

    THANK YOU, SIR!!
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    Cooling leaks that are undetectable generally are traced to a bad head gasket.it could be geting into the oil which would be detected as a milky subtance in the oil or it could be getting into the cylinder thus explaining the premature failure of the converter. Just my 2 Cents
  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    The glycol by itself is probably not harmful to the catalyst; but the other additives in there like phosphorous and sulfur compunds probably are.
  • richcolorichcolo Member Posts: 81
    Thanks guys.

    I check the oil at every gas stop, and I look for signs of coolant in the oil. I haven't seen any so far. I to tend to suspect that the coolant is somehow finding its way into the combustion chamber...that's why I posed the question about the Catalytic Converter. I'll discuss it with the service writer (whom I suspect knows even less about chemistry than he does about cooling systems...) if the converter ever comes off of back order.

    Someone posted a while back that Honda and Toyota have the best quality products and the least satisfactory customer service in the industry. That seems to be my experience...what is good about the van is very, very good, but woe to anyone who gets a less than perfect example because the dealer will never figure it out, and the customer support/Tech organization will blame the customer. I have been twice accused, once in writing, of removing coolant from the system myself. (!) Now why would I want to do that? Because I enjoy dropping my van off 25 miles from home and leaving it for days at a time? That must be it, I just do it to irritate my wife!

    At any rate, this particular catalytic converter will be covered either by my $0 deductible HondaCare warranty (the first extended warranty I ever bought) of the manufacturer's emmisions warranty. I don't really care which.
  • rockquary11rockquary11 Member Posts: 2
    I have owned a 2003 Odyssey EX for only about a month. Two times the sliding passenger door has opened automatically after I had stopped the vehicle and turned off the engine. One time I was sitting in the vehicle waiting for my wife to get our baby ready I had unlocked the doors and then it suddenly opened. The second time I unlocked the doors got out of the van and when I walked around to the passenger side the door opened by itself? Has anybody else had this problem? Is it an electrical or mechanical issue?
  • phil47phil47 Member Posts: 394
    on my 2001 EX. It is always related to me accidentally pushing the button on the remote which is either in my hand or in my pocket at the time. Just bending down with the remote in my pocket can set it off. The buttons are REALLY easy to accidentally push. In fact, it sometimes happens when I'm in the house, and so I find myself checking the van in the garage every night to ensure the doors are closed and none of the interior lights are left on!
  • bjk2001bjk2001 Member Posts: 358
    Was driver side door or passenger side door opened all the time? It happened to my passenger side door most of the time. :-D
  • phil47phil47 Member Posts: 394
    which, now that I think about it, corresponds to the larger of the 2 door buttons on the remote. On a related subject, that same button is sticking alot. I'm thinking of using some isopropyl alcohol (or like) to free it up...any suggestions?
  • solarcalcsolarcalc Member Posts: 1
    The 3rd row folding seat in my '99 Odyssey is jammed in the closed position. Using the strength of three people, we can lift it about an inch. I think the vendor who loaded cargo into the van forced it down with the strap inside. Anyone experience this or have any suggestions on how to unstick it?
  • bcambo1bcambo1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a little over 3,000 miles on my 2002 Ex. I have gotten used to the slightly "off" ergonomics of the driving position and have a better opinion of the seats than I first did. I think of them now as Euro firm. have read comments about the boring interior but feel that after a few miles of ownership, one does not really notice the dash or interior as much as when new anyway. The full tank of gas thunk does not bother me like, say, a rattle in the dash would. The van seems to be built to a very high standard EXCEPT that after two trips to the dealership and two alignments I still have a drift to the left at speed. I have dropped the van off to be fixed and when I pick it up late in the day, there is no one in service to talk to.I next plan to take a full day off, test drive it with someone from service, wait for it to be repaired and re-test it.That is the plan anyway. Tire pressure is at an even 33 p.s.i.. this is the only disappointment I have with the Odyssey but is really starting to color my overall experience. I'm starting to second guess myself when I notice a Dodge Grand Caravan ES drive by.
  • rockquary11rockquary11 Member Posts: 2
    The first time it happened the keys were still in the ignition, so pushing the button on the remote was not the cause.
  • kalajiankalajian Member Posts: 43
    My magic seat got stuck too. The trick to getting it back out is to make sure that the seat back "clicks" into the closed position before putting the magic seat in the well. If the seat back isn't "clicked into the closed position", you won't be able to raise the magic seat out of the well-its physically stuck in the well. To get it back out, put your body weight onto the folded seat assembly in the well-you should hear the latch mechanism click, and then you should be able to lift the magic seat out without a problem. Worked for me (twice now). I think the problem was caused by adding an aftermarket leather kit, causing a slight increase in the size (thickness) of the seats and seat back, making it more susceptible to not locking correctly.
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