I have a 2000 ex with 109k. Dealer wants $600-$700 to replace the T-Belt. Do they break??? Dealer said they have never replaced one that has broke but they recomend it. Also the sliding doors stick. The doors seal so tight you have to open from the inside with you foot..............Any fix????.............David
When I slide my 2nd row seats together on my 2005 EXL-R&N, w/o the 8th seat, I am left with an unattractive view of the floor "bolts" between both seats and on the left side... Should there be panels? Is anything availiable to cover up the bolts?
The dealer also replaced our transmission about 2 months ago. My wife has pointed out the worse gas mileage to me also. The gas light used to come on around 300 miles, now it comes on a little around 220. I haven't asked the dealer about it yet. But I am sure I will need as much info as possible to get them to fix it the first time.
Change the timing belt and the water pump while you are in there, as there is little extra to replacing the water pump at the same time. Peace of mind and insurance as the engine (valves) can be damaged if the T/B breaks while going down the road, then $6-700 would seem cheap.
Just this weekend we hit 80 degrees here in Chicago. I usually like to drive with the windows down while driving on the city streets. I sometimes will drive with the fresh air vents open to save on not having to use the AC. Usually, I have to drive with the AC on when it is above 80 degrees if I have all windows closed. (The fresh air coming through the vents is just as warm, if not warmer, then the outside air.) I believe this to be normal on all vechicles when using the fresh air setting only. If you think about it, it works in cold weather too. Sometimes it can be 50 degrees outside, but we can use the fresh air setting only and get warm air without using the heat when driving in the city. We own a 2001 DGC. :shades:
I second the T-belt suggestion. It's called for at 105K. It may or may not break, but when it does it could be disastrous. Also do the water pump at the same time. It's short money since they already have the front of the engine off.
As for the doors, buy some shinetsu grease at the parts counter and apply it to the seals. That should help it.
Yes, you should replace your timing belt. Honda reccommends 105,000 mile replacements. If the belt breaks very expensive damage to your engine is possible as your pistons collide with your valves.
I can't understand how your dealer has never seen a broken timing belt? Once in awhile we will get a car towed in with a broken belt.
I'm sure that price includes replacing the water pump and drive belts too. While they are "in there" and everything is apart, it would be false economy to not do a complete job.
Or, you can take a chance! I've heard of timing belts lasting 200,000 miles.
Me, I wouldn't want to think about it all of the time and the risk of getting stranded when it fails without notice and damaging my engine isn't worth it.
I have my 2000 odyssey tranmision replaced by honda dealer last month. Car only have 55k and honda dealer was replaced it free. But now we smell smoke from the car and i check and see the oil was leaked from the conjuntion between the tran and engine. My car have no oil leak before dealer repair. Is anyone out there have any idea what happen to it. Please help ?
We were pretty set on the Odyssey EX, but after seeing the "hot air" post and this one it does make you wonder about the quality
Buy it. Deals on EX are good now and it is a very nice car. I tested mine - no "hot air". It seems the only source of hot air is one disgruntled internet poster.
Are you referring to your 2001 DGC or 2005 Odyssey? If the latter, what model do you own? I know the air from the vent would be few degrees higher than outside air, but the 2005 Odyssey yields too high of temperature. This bothers me and makes me wonder if there are something wrong with the vehicle and if my AC has too work harder to cool the hot air.
Any vehicle will have hot air from the vents w/o AC running during hot days. Some may experience hotter or cooler air depending on the leaks into, the pathway and insulation of the ducts.
In fact I remember seeing a bumper sign that read,
Revel yourself! Are you a paid defender from Honda? I know there are paid defenders who sneaked into the forum, abused, distorted it, or tried to control the direction of the discussion, in order to hide the defects or stop the rising complaints. One of their assignments is to do "damage control," so that the defects or complaints would not spread any further. Besides, they propagandize their employer's car brand by all means and attack competing brands (e.g., Honda versus Toyota). Unfortunately, there is no way to kick out these paid defenders from the forum discussions.
"Revel yourself! Are you a paid defender from Honda? I know there are paid defenders who sneaked into the forum, abused, distorted it, or tried to control the direction of the discussion, in order to hide the defects or stop the rising complaints."
Wow. You sure seem to know a lot about the way the TH forums work.
Hmmmm, according to your profile, you've only been a member here since........today. You seem awfully combative for a newbie.......
Wow! Amazing! My wife is at the dealer right now dealing with this exact thing. We bought the Odyssey in April and at 500 miles this noise started to develop. Sounds like the same whistling-like noise. So far, the service folks at the dealer are saying we are nuts and minivans make noises and we need to live with it. Coincidentally it is our first new car ever and I'm quite bothered after spending over $30K as well. And they are saying the Service Bulletin doesn't apply to our car. Were you able to get this problem solved?
I received floor mat inserts to cover the floor bolts with my '05 EXL - R. They have snaps that connect to the 3rd row mat, and insert flaps to hold it in place.
My '04 Ody will give you air in the vents according to the thermostat setting in the dash. Try putting it on 60 degrees and see if that makes a difference.
I am just a happy Ody owner who has never had to take my car back to the dealer for any repairs(warranty or otherwise) or maintenance service (since I do it myself). This is what true hassle-free ownership is about having migrated from a domestic minivan previously that seems to have an affinity for the repair shop.
My two sons are also happy owners of Japanese vehicles as well and are enjoying that hassle free ownership experience like I am.
Our 2001 Odyssey has what seems to be an engine miss/hesitation around 50 to 60 MPH. We took the vehicle to our local Honda dealership and they said they couldn't duplicate the problem. Evidently, nothing showed up on their diagnostic equipment. The hesitation seems to have gotten progressively worse in the last year. Has anyone else experienced this problem and, if so, what was the solution?
According to my Honda dealer, 2005 Odyssey has different insulatation design than previous Odysseys. The dealer did admit that hot air will leak to the air intake area. They tried everything they can, including setting the temperature to the lowest. I am giving them another chance to fix the problem, or I will declare this a lemon.
Thanks......I will replace the t-belt..........My check engine light came on two days ago........Disconected the battery......The light went off.......came back on the next day..........Anyone know how to get the light to flash the obd code???
I know there are paid defenders who sneaked into the forum, abused, distorted it, or tried to control the direction of the discussion, in order to hide the defects or stop the rising complaints.
Hmmmm....I would be very interested in hearing the facts that prove this statement. However, please address it to me in an email as it is off topic and it is also extremely inappropriate to make such accusations concerning other members within the discussion.
There are two seals that could be at fault here, so you first need to be sure whether it is engine oil or tranny fluid that is leaking. If it is tranny fluid, then it is clearly Honda's responsibility - something is wrong with the front bell housing seal and they will probably swap out the tranny.
If it is engine oil, be prepared for some pushback. Situation is probably this. At the back end of the engine is the 'rear main seal'. Left undisturbed, it could last forever. Even if it seeped a little bit, the oil could probably collect and remain in the bell housing cavity if the machined surfaces fit well enough together. But now it has been disturbed. In the process of dropping the tranny, it could have hung on the shaft a bit and flat spotted the seal. Or maybe it has always leaked a bit, but the case edges no longer seal as well.
Logic says they should help, but you are not running under the full warranty any more - just a courtesy extended coverage on the tranny. So state your case, but do it nicely, and maybe they will do the right thing in response.
Anyone know how to get the light to flash the obd code???
Unfortunately, I don't believe you can. Many OBD-1 systems would do this, but I have not heard of being able to read out the code on an OBD-2 system without a plug in reader. Some parts stores, like AutoZone will do this one time for free. It is a good policy, as they hope that you will then purchase your needed replacement part from them. Otherwise, you can buy the most basic of readers for about $50, PC based scan tools begin around $200.
I won't trust your dealer. 1. They tried to make this iolated problem to a general problem so you can not apply lemon law.
2. If the intake leaks why you still got hot air even when you put on recycle? Note; recycle mode shuts off the Air-intake Oh that is right, they simply told you everything was redesigned. Ask them for a copy of the schematics of the heating system. Ask them how everrything works in the schematics.
I would bring it to another dealer. Or at least ask your dealer to prove to you that the heat core is not hot when heat is off and temperature setting is below 60F.
On my way to the Honda dealership yesterday, I noticed the same roaring sound. Being a woman, they disregarded my complaint and told me nothing was wrong. However, after having 2 other people who are highly qualified to diagnose vehicle problems drive my 05 Odyssey, they came to a unanimous decision that there was a bad wheel bearing. So first thing this morning I drove back to the dealership and told them what the problem was and amazingly, when I had an actual diagnosis to give them, the found that the front left wheel bearing was going bad.
I have a rattle in one of my sliders that is still there after two trips to the dealer, and I'm curious about your description of your workaround. For one you refer to three "spacer/grommets" in the door. I have two pieces of rubber on my doors, that I would call "bumpers", which are basically cylindrical, and which are apparently designed to rest/push against clear plastic disks attached to the frame (which I would guess protect the finish?). There's also a location in the middle of the door that looks like it was intended for a third (a raised platform and a hole). From this description does this sound like the "spacer/grommet" you're refering to? If so, it seems as if I'm missing one. I also noticed the bumpers are a bit loose. Is this the case on your doors? I thought of trying to put a thin extra layer of rubber on the end of these bumpers to see if I could get some more force to push the door away from the frame a bit, which sounds similar to your description.
It seems my dealer does not know how to fix the problem. The problem may be so new or so newly discovered (by drivers who happened not to use AC or automatic climate control) for them and Honda headquarters that there is no yet a solution available. The dealer said they check Honda headquarters' bulletin board (where problems and solutions were posted), but could not find guidance. Or the hot air problem is too complicate to fix; perhaps a redesign is needed. Being unable to find a solution, they keep pushing me to using the automatic climate control, while admitting there are something wrong with the air duct design--technically they don't use the word "wrong", but simply say it is "different".
It seems my dealer does not know how to fix the problem
I checked again on my van just out of curiosity. As I do not use AC all the time, it would be an issue for me. There was no problem. None whatsoever. May be with your van, maybe with your perception, but not a design problem with Odyssey.
Have you actually looked at the duct? I just did. Looks no more different then in any other car I have owned. I am an engineer and I know what to look for.
I do not believe you. But, whatever. I do not defend Honda, or any other manufacturer for that regard (I was the first to complain around here about bad recalls on the new Odyssey that may indicate sloppy assembly work at their U.S. plant)
With a nick "oneconsumer" sounds exactly like some astroturfing rumor mongering. Who is your dealer BTW?
Did you hear that new Sienna had failures in steering pump leading to steering locking up at highway speeds? Or about Quest ABS failures? Or about Chrysler using toxic padding in their seats? Let's discuss that ad naseum. (P.S. that was a joke)
Check the long insulation rubber strip under hood along the air intake area. My dealer said, previous models had it sealed up "all the way" from one end of the hood to the other, but new Odyssey does not do that. But again, this is not the only place engine heat comes into the air duct, otherwise they would have fixed the problem by simply extending the rubber band.
By the way, what model your Odyssey is? What is the manufacture date?
Wow, I am very surprised to hear your bearing went bad on an 05. That is very early. On mine it was in fact, the left front bearing, but I have 81K on my van so I was not too shocked. Is the noise resolved on your vehicle now? I try never to suggest to a dealer what the problem may be as some will amazingly find that exact problem and with your vehicle being so new it is a surprise to me that it was the bearings. Thanks for your feedback.
By the way, what model your Odyssey is? What is the manufacture date?
EX. February I think (at work now, can not check).
I will check the rubber. It did not look suspicious at all, and I have measured the temperature coming out to be the same as outside air (after a trip and while running engine). Maybe that can be fixed with some silicone based sealant, if the strip is not sufficient or defective?
As I said - I do not defend Honda. If there is a perceivable general defect I will be the first in line to demand a recall and a fix. So far I have not detected one (and we do have hot weather around here now)
cwpayton - Thanks for the reply. Here’s our update.
I brought the Odyssey into our local dealer (not the one that I purchased it from) a week ago Monday. I mentioned that Service Bulletin 04-078 would probably fix our problem but was told that our Odyssey had this fixed at the factory since it was also manufactured in April. The good news is that the technician stated that he did hear the "whistling like” noise during his test drive and was able to eliminate the problem during the test drive by using wide tape to tape this area. This is at the driver’s side vertical windshield black trim which, when compared to the passenger side, is loose at the bottom.
He did not have extra clips which holds this piece in place in stock and didn’t want to remove it IF there was a missing clip so he ordered more clips. I’m disappointed that it has been 8 days since the order was placed and still no parts. Where is the Honda service that Honda owners pay for when they pay a premium for their new vehicles?
The service paperwork has it classified as SYMPTON CD: 321 and a DEFECT CD: 123 listed at the bottom of the CONCERN section. Does anyone know what these stands for?
Yes, some minivans do make noise but my previous vehicle was a 1994 Dodge Caravan and EVEN that vehicle didn’t make this noise!
Stay in touch and let me know how your issue turns out. We may have to put our heads together to solve this for Honda!
One thing you can check to narrow down the problem:
Does the air come out cooler if the AC is turned on?
All cars have the heater core after the AC coils. This allows the defroster to run warm AND dry. If the unit blows nice and cold with the AC on, then you don't have a leak allowing water into the heater core. If the air is only semi-cold or warm, then you are still heating through the core when the temp is set low.
This will eliminate one of your possible problems.
Our unit blows cool when no ac is running. A little warmer than outside air, but still cool. I will have put my thermal hygrometer to it and see what it comes up as.
I would like to know whether or not AC turns on itself in the 2005 Odysseys equipped with automatic climate control while driving in the COLD outside temperate (65 degree and below) and while no other function is selected that might trigger AC on, such as defrosting. If the AC turns on often, that might be an indication that "hot air" problem is there. Am I right?
This then affects mpg.
ps. this message is also posted in other forums in order to get more statistic data.
I own a 2003 EXL Odysseys with 24K miles. Recently I have experienced upon startup the Check engine light has flashed off and on about 4 times then stays off. I havnt notice any drivability issues of decrease in fuel consumption. Any ideas? Thanks
I have a 2000 Odyssey and the driver-side turn signal doesn't flash. When I turn it on, it is a steady light. In previous vehicles, I recognized this meant the bulb needed changed. However, when I am in park and turn the signal on, it works. Only in Drive it doesn't. Also, the driver-side turn signal does flash when I put on the hazards. Has anyone encountered this before and what did you do about it?
I own a 2000 and this happened to me. You're coming up on a scheduled maintenance that Honda programmed into your on-board computer. Once you hit a certain mileage, it will stay on and even beep at you with a steady tone. Check your owners to learn how to turn it off when that occurs. There are easy to follow directions.
The fact that your Odyssey was built in April and having the same problem as mine makes me suspicious. Since Odysseys are built in only one USA location; Lincoln Alabama, I’m wondering if our Odysseys were built close to each other.
Can you supply the same information as mine listed below? I especially curious to see how close your last 6 VIN number digits are to ours.
Last 6 numbers of your VIN - ours is 089279 What is your color? – Ours is Slate Green Metallic What is your model line? – Ours is an EX-L
SOME GOOD NEWS - this morning before leaving for work, I used some 2" wide tape to tape the bottom 12" of the windshield on both sides of the driver side black window trim. Wouldn’t you know it; the whistling sound was not heard once during my 30 minute ride to work. This is also the area where the driver's side black window trim piece is loose so it's apparent that they are connected. I'm wondering if the windshield sealant may also be lacking in this area? I plan on being present with a camera when the technician removes this piece when the new clips arrive...which is now becoming another pain with the needless problem.
I say pain because when I brought the Odyssey a week last Monday, the service rep said parts arrive on Wednesday or Friday which now has given them three chances to receive them. I just called today and they are still not in. Again, Honda does a good job of marketing their products...but in our case, their inability to receive small simple parts for warranty work in a timely manner is frustrating for owners. Again, a premium price paid for K-Mart service.
Another item; perhaps a better description of our windshield noise is very similar to a window almost, but not completely, rolled up. I still check my window when driving but of course it is up all the way. Is this what yours sounds like? (It still has the whistling noise which varies in amplitude and pitch depending on vehicle speed)
Finally; I’m curious. If your noise still persists, try taping your windshield trim piece to the surrounding glass/body exterior along with checking the looseness of your driver’s side trim piece compared to the passenger side. Let me know the results.
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Comments
I haven't asked the dealer about it yet. But I am sure I will need as much info as possible to get them to fix it the first time.
Thanks!
As for the doors, buy some shinetsu grease at the parts counter and apply it to the seals. That should help it.
Good Luck.
I can't understand how your dealer has never seen a broken timing belt? Once in awhile we will get a car towed in with a broken belt.
I'm sure that price includes replacing the water pump and drive belts too. While they are "in there" and everything is apart, it would be false economy to not do a complete job.
Or, you can take a chance! I've heard of timing belts lasting 200,000 miles.
Me, I wouldn't want to think about it all of the time and the risk of getting stranded when it fails without notice and damaging my engine isn't worth it.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Buy it. Deals on EX are good now and it is a very nice car. I tested mine - no "hot air". It seems the only source of hot air is one disgruntled internet poster.
In fact I remember seeing a bumper sign that read,
"DRIVE CLOSER TO SMELL HOT AIR"
You can imagine/guess the source of the hot air
Enjoy!
Are you a paid defender from Honda? I know there are paid defenders who sneaked into the forum, abused, distorted it, or tried to control the direction of the discussion, in order to hide the defects or stop the rising complaints. One of their assignments is to do "damage control," so that the defects or complaints would not spread any further.
Besides, they propagandize their employer's car brand by all means and attack competing brands (e.g., Honda versus Toyota).
Unfortunately, there is no way to kick out these paid defenders from the forum discussions.
Where do I sign up??
Somehow I think this "hot air" so called problem is just that...hot air. I've never noticed this or heard about it except from this one poster.
So, now, through the beauty of the internet there is now a "problem"?
Now, I'll wait for my fat check!
Mine does not. If there was a design defect, each one would have been affected. That is not true.
Not to be defensive, just jerks do annoy me.
Are you a paid defender from Honda? I know there are paid defenders who sneaked into the forum, abused, distorted it, or tried to control the direction of the discussion, in order to hide the defects or stop the rising complaints."
Wow. You sure seem to know a lot about the way the TH forums work.
Hmmmm, according to your profile, you've only been a member here since........today. You seem awfully combative for a newbie.......
No way!
I am just a happy Ody owner who has never had to take my car back to the dealer for any repairs(warranty or otherwise) or maintenance service (since I do it myself). This is what true hassle-free ownership is about having migrated from a domestic minivan previously that seems to have an affinity for the repair shop.
My two sons are also happy owners of Japanese vehicles as well and are enjoying that hassle free ownership experience like I am.
Such an experience is priceless!
He is probably trying to earn his keep( and check) for his new job as a paid defender!!
Thanks.
Anyone have any experience with this?
Hmmmm....I would be very interested in hearing the facts that prove this statement. However, please address it to me in an email as it is off topic and it is also extremely inappropriate to make such accusations concerning other members within the discussion.
I eagerly await your email.
If it is engine oil, be prepared for some pushback. Situation is probably this. At the back end of the engine is the 'rear main seal'. Left undisturbed, it could last forever. Even if it seeped a little bit, the oil could probably collect and remain in the bell housing cavity if the machined surfaces fit well enough together. But now it has been disturbed. In the process of dropping the tranny, it could have hung on the shaft a bit and flat spotted the seal. Or maybe it has always leaked a bit, but the case edges no longer seal as well.
Logic says they should help, but you are not running under the full warranty any more - just a courtesy extended coverage on the tranny. So state your case, but do it nicely, and maybe they will do the right thing in response.
Steve
Unfortunately, I don't believe you can. Many OBD-1 systems would do this, but I have not heard of being able to read out the code on an OBD-2 system without a plug in reader. Some parts stores, like AutoZone will do this one time for free. It is a good policy, as they hope that you will then purchase your needed replacement part from them. Otherwise, you can buy the most basic of readers for about $50, PC based scan tools begin around $200.
Steve
1. They tried to make this iolated problem to a general problem so you can not apply lemon law.
2. If the intake leaks why you still got hot air even when you put on recycle? Note; recycle mode shuts off the Air-intake Oh that is right, they simply told you everything was redesigned. Ask them for a copy of the schematics of the heating system. Ask them how everrything works in the schematics.
I would bring it to another dealer. Or at least ask your dealer to prove to you that the heat core is not hot when heat is off and temperature setting is below 60F.
On my way to the Honda dealership yesterday, I noticed the same roaring sound. Being a woman, they disregarded my complaint and told me nothing was wrong. However, after having 2 other people who are highly qualified to diagnose vehicle problems drive my 05 Odyssey, they came to a unanimous decision that there was a bad wheel bearing. So first thing this morning I drove back to the dealership and told them what the problem was and amazingly, when I had an actual diagnosis to give them, the found that the front left wheel bearing was going bad.
Wonder if this is going to be a problem?
Being unable to find a solution, they keep pushing me to using the automatic climate control, while admitting there are something wrong with the air duct design--technically they don't use the word "wrong", but simply say it is "different".
I checked again on my van just out of curiosity. As I do not use AC all the time, it would be an issue for me. There was no problem. None whatsoever. May be with your van, maybe with your perception, but not a design problem with Odyssey.
Have you actually looked at the duct? I just did. Looks no more different then in any other car I have owned. I am an engineer and I know what to look for.
I do not believe you. But, whatever. I do not defend Honda, or any other manufacturer for that regard (I was the first to complain around here about bad recalls on the new Odyssey that may indicate sloppy assembly work at their U.S. plant)
With a nick "oneconsumer" sounds exactly like some astroturfing rumor mongering. Who is your dealer BTW?
Did you hear that new Sienna had failures in steering pump leading to steering locking up at highway speeds? Or about Quest ABS failures? Or about Chrysler using toxic padding in their seats? Let's discuss that ad naseum. (P.S. that was a joke)
But again, this is not the only place engine heat comes into the air duct, otherwise they would have fixed the problem by simply extending the rubber band.
By the way, what model your Odyssey is? What is the manufacture date?
Thanks for your feedback.
EX. February I think (at work now, can not check).
I will check the rubber. It did not look suspicious at all, and I have measured the temperature coming out to be the same as outside air (after a trip and while running engine). Maybe that can be fixed with some silicone based sealant, if the strip is not sufficient or defective?
As I said - I do not defend Honda. If there is a perceivable general defect I will be the first in line to demand a recall and a fix. So far I have not detected one (and we do have hot weather around here now)
That would be odd. There is no rocket science in using bearings with appropriate load rating. Big rigs do drive around.
While it is "based" on car platform, Odyssey, Pilot, MDX etc do have different main bearings then your average Accord if I understood correctly.
Anybody knows the spec? Do not have any docs.
On the other hand, bearings MAY fail early in some cases. I doubt Honda manufactures bearings, but who knows.
I brought the Odyssey into our local dealer (not the one that I purchased it from) a week ago Monday. I mentioned that Service Bulletin 04-078 would probably fix our problem but was told that our Odyssey had this fixed at the factory since it was also manufactured in April. The good news is that the technician stated that he did hear the "whistling like” noise during his test drive and was able to eliminate the problem during the test drive by using wide tape to tape this area. This is at the driver’s side vertical windshield black trim which, when compared to the passenger side, is loose at the bottom.
He did not have extra clips which holds this piece in place in stock and didn’t want to remove it IF there was a missing clip so he ordered more clips. I’m disappointed that it has been 8 days since the order was placed and still no parts. Where is the Honda service that Honda owners pay for when they pay a premium for their new vehicles?
The service paperwork has it classified as SYMPTON CD: 321 and a DEFECT CD: 123 listed at the bottom of the CONCERN section. Does anyone know what these stands for?
Yes, some minivans do make noise but my previous vehicle was a 1994 Dodge Caravan and EVEN that vehicle didn’t make this noise!
Stay in touch and let me know how your issue turns out. We may have to put our heads together to solve this for Honda!
Does the air come out cooler if the AC is turned on?
All cars have the heater core after the AC coils. This allows the defroster to run warm AND dry. If the unit blows nice and cold with the AC on, then you don't have a leak allowing water into the heater core. If the air is only semi-cold or warm, then you are still heating through the core when the temp is set low.
This will eliminate one of your possible problems.
Our unit blows cool when no ac is running. A little warmer than outside air, but still cool. I will have put my thermal hygrometer to it and see what it comes up as.
This then affects mpg.
ps. this message is also posted in other forums in order to get more statistic data.
Can you supply the same information as mine listed below? I especially curious to see how close your last 6 VIN number digits are to ours.
Last 6 numbers of your VIN - ours is 089279
What is your color? – Ours is Slate Green Metallic
What is your model line? – Ours is an EX-L
SOME GOOD NEWS - this morning before leaving for work, I used some 2" wide tape to tape the bottom 12" of the windshield on both sides of the driver side black window trim. Wouldn’t you know it; the whistling sound was not heard once during my 30 minute ride to work. This is also the area where the driver's side black window trim piece is loose so it's apparent that they are connected. I'm wondering if the windshield sealant may also be lacking in this area? I plan on being present with a camera when the technician removes this piece when the new clips arrive...which is now becoming another pain with the needless problem.
I say pain because when I brought the Odyssey a week last Monday, the service rep said parts arrive on Wednesday or Friday which now has given them three chances to receive them. I just called today and they are still not in. Again, Honda does a good job of marketing their products...but in our case, their inability to receive small simple parts for warranty work in a timely manner is frustrating for owners. Again, a premium price paid for K-Mart service.
Another item; perhaps a better description of our windshield noise is very similar to a window almost, but not completely, rolled up. I still check my window when driving but of course it is up all the way. Is this what yours sounds like? (It still has the whistling noise which varies in amplitude and pitch depending on vehicle speed)
Finally; I’m curious. If your noise still persists, try taping your windshield trim piece to the surrounding glass/body exterior along with checking the looseness of your driver’s side trim piece compared to the passenger side. Let me know the results.