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Comments
TIA,
Phil
1. Recall (airbag)
2. Brakes (rough operation on quick stops)
3. Wind noise
4. AM radio buzz (sounds as if antenna is disconnected)
5. Trim on rear door separating from plasic near bottom of door
Other problems:
*Wind whistle noise right passenger. Dealer sealed blade housing. Fixed.
*Rear power window wouldn't come down. Dealer fixed
*Middle front console rattles. Dealer cannot fix. Resolution keep down versus up.
*Hood misaligned. Dealer won't fix. Resolution take to body shop.
30,000 - For a van that sits at the dealer getting fixed. Crazy!
I found a lot of metal filings on the magnetic drain plug. I hope that is normal for the first change, but it lead me to believe I should change it a few more times.
Phil
1. Recall (airbag) - inspected
2. Brakes (rough operation on quick stops) - rough pads came with car, will order new and improved for quieter operation, under warrantee
3. Wind noise - trim around windshield needs fixing, a 3rd party repair service comes to my place of business or home to fix it, under warrantee
4. AM radio buzz (sounds as if antenna is disconnected) - cannot find problem, will follow-up at next appointment when new door seal part comes in (see below)
5. Trim on rear door separating from plastic near bottom of door - ordered new part under warrantee.
Did you ever figure out what was wrong with yours?
Thanks
Well today I was looking again and this time checked the pressure and sure enough it is 35psi and still looks slightly flat when I look from the font at groud level.
When I bought it the car had 8 miles on it so not sure what to do since I bought the car from a dealer approx 200miles away. Dose anyone else see any of their tires look slight flat on any side?
Bottom line, the manufacturer needs to shape-up their assembly quality, especially during their first model year.
Also how did you get the 3rd party to fix trim around windshield? what should I be looking for?
thanks
Is this expensive to have repaired?
Is this problem caused in any way by faulty EGR (EGR port in the engine's intake manifold to stick or valve to fail)?
Please advise. Thank you.
I get this sound when I dirve on a high bridge or overpass but not on the regular interstate roads?
Also you said that the noise is back so I guess the trim fix did not work?
I also agree that between the Sienna and Odyssey the sienna is unbelievably quite, but the drive is sluggish and the handling is not responsive. I know if I had bought the Seinna, which I came very close to, then I would be lamenting the pickup and handling.
Its just that when you spend 30K, it should be perfect. I will sign any petition that unsatisified Odyssey owners are planning to submit to Honda.
I hope that the same old 5 speed Automatic Transmission problem is fixed on the new 05 and later Odys. Everytime, I hear the humming sound from my 05 Odys engine/transmission , I have an uneasy feeling about this Honda Auto Transmission. May be the additional pump they put in it did not work so well. Honda engines have been known to be among the best. But I doubt that their Automatic Transmissions achieve similar status yet. Even my old and shaky 9 years old GM van shifts better and does not hum like it get bogged down in wrong gear.
jt
But if you listened to AM, the buzzing sound could be caused by many things: Power line overhead, Fuel pump, Ingition, switches (AC, window,..) activation. AM is very prone to any electrical interference (external or internal). This is incidental problem and will come and go. One thing good about Honda vehicles: their vehicle electrical noises are well supressed.
jt
Also, akhan, I have not had the window trim fixed yet. I will do so in 2 weeks (I will be out of town until then). I will report if the fix was successful or not.
The radiator problem is REAL, quite a number of people have had to repair their AC condenser after having it damaged by rocks that get through the large openings. There is a lot of discussion about it on in the "Accesories" section of this forum. I think (and have purchased) the MrGrille (sells on E-bay) add-on grille to solve it for us. See the other group for more discussion of other options.
jp
When we got home, the car was taken to Honda and they said they KNEW about the problem and have a "kluge" fix. Apparently there is some sort of system programming error that causes the system to stop transmitting. The "fix" is to disconnect the battery cables, connect them together, wait 1 hour, and reconnect them. You have to then re-program your radio stations, call XM (if you have it) and get the system "re-authorized" and all will be well (the NAV system will need a bit to re-acquire it's location, but your stored addresses will still be there.)
There is NO GUARANTEE that this failure won't re-occur in the next ten minutes, and they don't seem to know the cause.
FWIW, this failure also causes the backseat remote control to stop working properly, and the rear "plug-in" earphone connectors to fail. All is repaired by the fix noted above.
jp
On AM, it is normal to hear buzzes and crackles when you drive under power lines. Some power lines have proper connection which radiate less noise. The worst one has flying sparks. The best case is you just hear weaker station without buzzing. In this case, power line acts like a shield which block the AM signal going to your radio.
If a radio engineer can design radios that are immune to power line noise, he would be famous. Having say that, some radio does behave better than the others under these extreme conditions. This is where one separate a good radio from the also-ran. The best thing to do is to compare radio/vehicle at the same site and at the same time. Speaking of the same time: your daylight AM reception quality is totally different from the nighttime reception due to atmospheric condition.
For FM, signals do change from day to day. Certain weather condition allows signal to go for hundreds of miles (vs. 50-70 miles on average). In this case, you have a lot of "co-channel" condition: long distant stations and short distant station share the same frequency. As a result, you hear one audio program on top of other(s).
With the new Odys, since the AM/FM antenna is embedded in the right side glass, it does suffer more "directional" problem: if the antenna facing the station, you get better reception. In other directions, the vehicle metal body will block the signal and cause weaker reception. This is a compromise design (low wind noise and better aerodynamic at expense of radio reception).
If you suspect your radio is having problem, you can do some quick checks:
1) Tune to some far away AM stations. If you can receive them, then the antenna connection is good. Do the same for FM
2) If yours is constantly having a buzzing noise, there is a good chance some noisy vehicle cable running near sensitive audio lines or antenna line. Only dealer tech can check that. Also your cell phone, 2 way radio, DC-AC Inverter, Aftermarket Electronics (DVD player, XBox), PC can jam your radio AM/FM too. This is EMI problem (Electro Magnetic Interference)
3) Your new Odys radio is less sensitive than the older Odys with whip antenna: tough luck. It is a design compromise that Honda made on the antenna
4) Hear more static noise compared to other similar Odys: radio or antenna/antenna amp problem. Sometime, having better radio speaker will emphasize static noise in addition to better fidelity
jt
It seems that the open grill section below the bumper is perfect for allowing skipping stones in. The rest of the unit is virtually damage free, as expected. I am thinking of removing the upper shroud and sliding down to the lower segment some screen mesh to reduce the impacts. The extent of the damage at just under 50k miles to the fins and tubes tells me that it is only a matter of time before I join the multitude forking over big bucks for A/C repairs....
Steve
I have not looked at my 05 Odys, but I have a question about the shroud shifting: if you do that, could it block air intake to the vehicle? How about thermal exchange for your condensor ?
All vehicles are bottom breather. That means cold air entering the vehicle at the lower portion of the grill. Any obstruction on this section will negatively affect the air movement and ultimately vehicle performance. Just like putting the bra on the hood and grill: it is great for bug prevention, but that is not good for free air flow and heat exchange.
jt
We just drove across the desert from CA to OK in conditions where the heat was seriously above 110 degrees. We had the AC running and were driving at 70-80 mph the whole route. The temp guage never went above the 1/4 position that it always seems to run at.
There was all kinds of trash caught in the screen, but none in the A/C fins.
I have decided to buy the manufactured grille that MrGrille sells on E-bay. It's $100 with shipping and tax, looks professional, and (according to other users) has no significant effect on the air flow. 98% of our driving is in urban areas of CA so I don't really expect heat to be an issue. The installation is also with plastic ties, so if I ever got into a situation where there was a heat problem I could remove it in minutes and re-install easily. It essentilly just "plugs in" to the existing openings.
jp
Bottom breathing is more popular today, given that the chin spoiler creates a high pressure zone, forcing air in. I don't think that adding a mesh material between the bottom opening and the radiator/condensor would compromise cooling, as long as it were kept clean, and the mesh size was reasonable. Window bug screen might be OK, but is a little dense. There are probably lower density materials that would do the job just fine, yet block direct hits from stones.
Steve
What Honda tech did to your Audio/Entertainment system is similar to pushing the "RESET" button on the PC. They suspected the system software/hardware is screwed up somehow and Battery disconnection will set it back to the original state. The 1 hour delay is to make sure the electronics is really dead when power is removed. The reason for it is there are big capacitors in the system which hold Electrical charge and they take time to discharge ( couple minutes to 10 minutes may be). But 1 hour is good enough for this purpose.
Your system may be problem free for 1 week or may be a year depending on how robust is the design. Sometime the problem may be induced by having LOW battery voltage or certain operating steps that lock up the system (engineers forgot to check them)
Good Luck
jt
I am pretty confident I can do the job, but I'm not sure how this gets started.
Thanks in advance for a any help.
MW
http://www.handa-accessories.com/
MW