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Comments
I drove the old DD, an econobox but couldn't stand more than
a year of that and about 8k saved. Then I bought a very low
miles C4, 1995 auto and it wasn't bad, just not as good as
the C5 so I sold it after 10k miles and a year. Good deal,
only cost me the sales tax and a couple hundred since it was
still low miles when I sold it. But the C5 is just too much
fun not to drive and I'm up to 68k with the car going on six
years old in 2 months. Now I'm doing about 15k/year and
that is with no commute.
As to tires, my wife's C5 has original run flats still on
at 24k miles. They are due for a change before winter.
Randy
Pity the Saturn Sky owner---$450 a tire at my local tire shop.
The rears ( non-Z51 ) are currently just under $250...
Rear: 285/35ZR19 RunFlat
Serv. Desc: (90Y)
Load Rating: LL
UTQG: 300 AA A Price: $240.00 (each) Special
Estimated Availability: In Stock
price at firestone dealer was comperitive with tire rack
just have to find a tire dealer that has run flat equipment
I a reminded how glad I am the 2001 Z06 does NOT have these. I would have changed both the second I needed new tires.
I live in England and will be on holiday with my wife in California for two weeks in September.
We've always wanted to do 'proper' American road trip so will be spending a few days driving from LA up to San Francisco along Highway 1 so we've hired a Corvette Convertible from Hertz (seemed to be the only hire company who stocks them and lets you do a one way hire) for this part of our trip.
I want to make sure we can enjoy the drive with the hood down, but I know that reduces the trunk space to 5 cu ft. Could someone tell me what the actual dimensions are (length, width, height) and whether the stowed hood reduces the width or height compared to when its up?
Thanks
Paul
shock. However, since I have my stock wheels in the garage
with a set of EMT Michelin's they may just end up on the
wife's car. I have been running a set of Z06 wheels with
Kumho non-run-flats for most of the last two years. I've
had 3 nails/screws and not one has left me stuck. Since I
check pressures all the time, due to track driving, I caught
each and made it to the America's Tire shop without incident.
Pure luck, I know. At about $800 per set the Kumho non-RF
is a great alternative with much more traction.
As to tire sensors, not much issue, the local Am's Tire knows
the drill and has yet to be a problem. My biggest issue is
that my tires sitting in the back of garage still read out
in the car and I don't lose the reading unless I get more
than about 20 minutes away from home.
Randy
getting left without a spare. I haven't even made it an
issue to pick up a Z06 repair kit, which reminds me, good
project.
Randy
As for run flat equipment, there really isn't any per se---any tire shop that has MODERN tire equipment (up to date machine that handles oversize wheels, etc) and a technician who isn't meat-fisted, should be able to change a RFT no problem.
There are tricks of the trade of course, that one hopes is passed down from the experienced to the inexperienced operator. For instance, if the operator breaks the bead OPPOSITE the pressure sensor (180 degrees out from it) he might break it. That's $50--$100 bucks down the drain plus you have to re-calibrate the new one.
Also if you rotate tires (on cars with RFTs that don't run different size tires front to rear), you have to recalibrate the sensors because the computer doesn't know their location anymore.
I am happy to help. My 05 convertible's trunk is roughly 48" wide, 12" deep (tall), and 15 -18" front to back with the top area closed (can put top down). The "front to back" is the area that increases (about a foot) with the panel unsnapped and laid down (therefore temporarily preventing the top to be stowed. I too am about to take a(nother) road trip! The C6 is an awesome road car. You'll have a blast!
So did you know that the yanks call the bonnet the hood, and the hood the trunk lid!? Clay, Las Vegas Nevada
Thanks for the info, now I know how much we can pack; we can't wait to be out driving on the open road!
Ah well at least I got trunk right (that's a boot for us brits)!
cheers
Paul
-A Corvette is what it is. A beautiful sounding, driving, and looking car. The fit and finish - look at it and decide if it is something you can 'live with', if you think it is sub-standard. For the price, nothing else can touch the looks, power, and road manners of the car.
F55 Magnetic Selective Ride Control Suspension
Includes magnetic selective ride control suspension with tour or sport modes and larger brakes with cross-drilled rotors. NOT AVAILABLE with Z51, Z51.
and
Z51 Performance Handling Package
Includes power steering cooler, engine oil cooler, transmission oil cooler, stiffer springs and stabilizer bars, upgraded shock absorbers, larger brakes with cross-drilled rotors, upgraded tires and Z51 specific manual transmission. NOT AVAILABLE with Z51, MX0.
Z51 Performance Handling Package (w/GU2)
Includes power steering cooler, engine oil cooler, transmission oil cooler, stiffer springs and stabilizer bars, upgraded shock absorbers, larger brakes with cross-drilled rotors, upgraded tires and 2.73 performance axle ratio. REQUIRES MX0. INCLUDES GU2.
All that matters regarding fit & finish is what your opinion is...
- Ray
Happy with mine....
Probably the one place where Corvette needs further improvement is the interior--but again, you can only go so far without raising the price even more. It does look a bit cheap in there though, I will admit.
Given what you get under the gas pedal, the complaints about fit and finish is relative.
Visiting Host
The exhaust note is intoxicating and I love the feel of the 400 lb ft / hp pushing me back into the seat. And, there is nothing wrong with the basic leather seats, imho. The stereo is very nice. The air conditioner is superb, even with the top off and 95 deg outside. The t-top is one of my favorite features. When in place, the interior is very quiet and you only hear the "symphony" of the engine. With the top off, you have a convertible and still own the practical storage features of a coupe. T-top is the best decision that I made, when I bought the car to replace my S2000 convertible.
The basic suspension is a good compromise of sporty and yet comfortable for a daily driving experience, even in the upper midwest with frequent potholes. Having driven the Z-51 package, I found that suspension unacceptable for driving over our road imperfections.
One's impression of the fit-and-finish will be based on what they are familiar with. My daily driver is a Lexus IS, and I find the 'vette fit and finish to be very comparable to the "perfection" of Lexus; although obviously a completely different driving experience.
Overall, I am a very satisfied C6 vette customer. And, no I don't work for GM.
Options - Automatic, Onstar, Chrome Wheels (top wheel option), optional color ($750), 3LT option (top option package - upgraded seats, heads up, 6 CD Boise radio, power tele wheel, 2 memory power seats, heated seats, several-other-things).
This is a pretty well optioned up car. Doesn't have optional suspension, 2 tops, or navigation. And, the convertibles are much more expensive - why, I sure don't know.
The check I wrote was for less than $50,000.
You are starting to sound like a troll. If you aren't, then get out there and start wheeling and dealing, stop p****** and moaning about niggly things about the car, and buy a Corvette.
Thanks for the tip on Point Reyes Station, we're planning on travelling up Hwy 1 past San Francisco before turning round to travel back through Napa and spending a couple of days in San Francisco; so we should pass through it.
Which direction driving over the Golden Gate Bridge has the best views?
Actually both ! Just that one way (N/S) cost 5 dollars more!
Again if you are not used to VERY close quarter driving, the best lanes over the GG Bridge are the MIDDLE LANES.
The (4) exits around the GG Bridge of which there are two on each direction or side come up very fast and they are VERY short, so if you dont know the drill you need to slow to allow yourself safe recognition and exit.
1. The classic view (fog rolling over the GG Bridge, if you happen to catch it, or it catches you) is from N/S on the Marin side or from the Marin side heading into San Francisco. Remarkably it is not set up at all for tourist traffic, even after all these years. However to me it is a gorgeous view. It also has access to a park on the Marin side. There used to be WW2 Large Gun and (later) Missile sites etc. It also is linked to the other side so you can actually go into Sausalito and also the GG Bridge exit on the Marin side heading north to Marin.
2. Also just after you pay the toll side, there is another exit that you can also park (used mainly by GG Bridge employees, but it is the lesser used by tourists, so it is nicer in terms of access and parking. It is easier to access the windward side of the GG Bridge walk. If you want to head more in the south direction, there are more isolated but well known SF beaches! There also is a very stunning and classic view of the GG Bridge along a two lane twisty road overlooking the Pacific Ocean! It also is linked to the other side so you can actually go in the opposite direction S/N.
3. The exit on the San Francisco side just before you cross the bridge heading towards Marin. There is also paid and unpaid parking. It allows access to walk across the GG Bridge and also to the Presidio of San Francisco, An old historic Army base which is now a park.
4. As you go over the Bridge S/N or from San Francisco to the Marin side the exist on the right is indeed set up for tourists. It also has access to the City of Sausalito. That city is truly a treat. It affords views of San Francisco, which can literally be stunning.
So I hope you get all of the major weather gigs during your stay. Stunning crystal clear days, fog to distraction and very cool to very warm days!!! I have never tired of this area even as I am a native.
Probably your best views on the GG Bridge are those going North to South...they put up a high rail to discourage people from jumping off, but oddly enough nobody jumps off the Pacific Ocean side.
You've got the perfect car for HWY 1!
The price is only for the car. Tax, title, reg varies hugely across the US, and what I paid will have nothing to do with what you might pay (unless you are in Oklahoma).
In Oklahoma, you get a temp tag, and a wave goodbye. You get to stand in line with everone else to buy a tag and pay tax. But you also do not have to pay an overpriced fee to the dealer to do this for you.
Go to the GM online site. If you dig deep enough, there is a badly designed search capability where you look at current dealer inventory anywhere in the country, with list prices. There is also a much better one at www.jeffhardy.com. I don't know how this guy makes this one work, but it has much better search options.
Now that you have all tools, are you going to find and buy yourself a Corvette?
My suggestion is: if you haven't driven the base suspension C6, do so. If it's too stiff, re-consider your desire for the vette. If it's not "sporty" enough and you want more cornering stability, etc. go for the Z51 package, but expect to feel more bumps in the road.
Without, I think it's displayed in the DIC area.
I thought you were buying one of these things. Why are you still asking questions? Why aren't you asking your salesman these questions? How old are you? Do you have any money?
Correct.
- Ray
w/HUD.....
1) 1972 Coupe bought new. Kept for about 7 years. A pretty car. Last year of non-radial tires, which was not a good thing. Base motor, smogged down, low horsepower car. Sold it for more than bought new.
2) A 1964 badly abused, horrible looking coupe, bought in about 1975. (Yes I owned 2 for some time). I learned a lot about working on cars with this one. It had a new GM 'long-block' motor, 300hp. Of the first 3 I owned, this was the fastest by far. And with its suspension, the scarest to drive. When I had the mechanicals in pretty good shape, I was next faced with doing a lot of body and paint work. Did not want to put this much money into it, so I sold it. (It was a manual, which I did not really like.) Made about $1,000 on it, not counting my time as being worth anything.
3) A 1981 coupe, used, bought in about 1988? Another low power car. But with lower profile, wide tires, this was an excellent highway cruiser car and it also cornered well. It just felt nice at 80mph. Kept it about 5 years or so, sold to member of the family for less than I could have gotten elsewhere.
4) 2007 coupe that is almost one year old. None of the other cars were anywhere near what this car is.
-Power.
-Great seats. I've driven it on a 10 hour trip and was not tired. No other car I've owned could have been anywhere near as comfortable, and this includes two Cadillacs.
-Beautiful. Velocity Yellow.
-I've not 'pushed' this car at all. But I can tell, it is heads above the suspension of any of the others.
-Not a single problem at 5,000 miles.
I'd be especially interested in comments from those who have owned other corvettes prior to the C6.
I drove mine for most of the first 4,000 mile on long, interstate trips. At the 4,000 mile time, it indicated 69% oil life left, and the Onstar email report projected this to 14,000+ miles for the first change.
I changed it at this 4,000 miles. I think this is very conservative. Just recently I read, from someone obviously much more conservative, he changed at 500, 1000, 2000, and 4000 miles. Others have run it to where the oil life indicater hit the 10% or less, which was anywhere from a few thousand miles (a car that had seen time on the track) to the 14,000 mile range.
I will probably go 4,000 or 5,000 or 6,000 miles between future changes, using Delco filter and Mobil 1 oil. Changing it myself, this is less than $35.
If you do not drive much, the manual recommends once a year changes, if you put very low miles on a car, and I also agree.
Except for cars with design problems (Toyota 'sludge' problems), in the last 15 years have you personally and directly known of any auto that had been seviced 'reasonably' (I would define this to be oil and filter changes every 7,500 miles or less) and not being abused,that had a engine, head, etc failure because of oil problems.
I think not.
I've not known of one.
And I'll be you do get a lot of different responses from dealers. I would bet several of them would reach around and pinch your wallet to estimate your net worth, then tell you something like "That there Cor-vet is a high pro-formance machine. It will run lots hotter than any car you ev-er had. You better be sure and get in here at least ever 3,000 miles for a filter and oil change! Don't do that, any you be looking for a heap of trouble!"
A lot of auto manuals recommend 6,000 to 7,500 miles on 'regular' oil.
On Mobil 1, lots of cars, including expensive imports, have oil life indicators that will guide you to 10,000 to 15,000 mile.
The car has a magnetic oil drain plug. It WILL have metal on it for the first change, which is to be expected in a new engine. The engineers that designed the auto, also worked out the logic behind the oil life indicator. I'm more conservative than that. But, I think these guys do know what they are doing. The do not want a lot of Corvette motors having engine failures at 60,000 miles related to oil problems, with documented changes at the oil live reminder. There would be lawsuits.
Overall, do what you want to do. This is going to be the result of any amount of questions you ask about this, because, as I said, you are going to get a huge range of replies.
C5, 2001 Corvette Z06, 74,000 miles "garage queen", oil change intervals of 14,600 (when the OLM indicates changing)
Since I was raised old school on this issue, I DID change at app 1,600 miles. It was a complete and utter waste of time, energy and resources to change at that interval.
Listen to your OLM, since all of us operate their vehicles in slightly different ways and environments. Now I know that some of us need almost any excuse to do something on our Vettes but... just go out and drive!! :shades: