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Have you done a full-throttle launch?
The few times I've done it, I've not been able to hear the tires spin at all. The runflats do not squeal! This is on a 2007 automatic coupe.
Thanks
Joe
3 times a few years back and got down to published 13.3's in a C5 coupe on the
third day with a 6sp manual. With Auto just do a couple practice runs and roll on
the throttle until you get some slip and figure out what the tires will take. Since my
350hp will break loose the rear, your 400hp will do the same, easily. The best I've
seen in autos, just hold brake, put in some throttle, far less than full and release
brake and roll toward floor as you gain speed. Biggest issue is timing the light,
and I had to release clutch on last of 3 yellows to get close, you will get to point
where you just have to follow a script and then only change one factor to see if you
get improvement.
As to beating Stangs, remember $ are speed, and most drag guys have modded,
some heavily but they are still heavier than you. Then it is all about grip.
Good luck,
Randy
Got in the car, turned the key, and nothing. Radio was on, fan blowing etc.
Yup, a few choice words, tried again and it started. Happened a couple more times until I realized I had not pushed the clutch all the way down....DOH!!!
Don't want to oversimplify but it may be something you want to try.
Like you, I dreaded the thought of taking it into the dealer, leaving it for a few days and then getting the proverbial "cannot duplicate the condition".
Once I realized my bonehead tactics, it never failed.
R5108900 TO R5110650
This was a recall campaign # 94C21
Sometimes these mystery lights are connected to a faulty gas cap or loose hoses or loose connecting hoses within the evaporative emissions system.
2. Remove the I/P accessory trim plate.
3. Remove the HVAC control head retaining screws.
4. Pull the control head out from the I/P center support bracket to access the electrical connector.
5. Disconnect the electrical connector from the control head.
6. Remove the control head from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the electrical connector to the HVAC control head.
2. Install the control head to the I/P center support bracket. NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the HVAC control head retaining screws. Tighten Tighten the HVAC control head retaining screws to 1.9 N.m (17 lb in) .
4. Install the I/P accessory trim plate.
5. Connect the negative battery cable. Tighten Tighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 N.m (11 lb in) .
6. Program the transmitters. Refer to Transmitter Programming/Synchronization in keyless Entry.
First time engine light came on. 2nd and 3rd time no engine light. On the hill, it drops from 45 to 10 and goes all the way down to 1st gear. The RPM goes up and down.
The incline of the hill is 3000 to 6500 in 11 miles.
The hill is smooth and we are on it for 5 miles before it happens.
Oh and the roof creaks horribly especially on the drivers side as we drive down the hill from 6800 to 3000. It is very annoying.
Does anyone have a clue as to what could be happening? We would appreciate any help. We have not taken it to the Vegas dealer where we bought it as it is a long distance from our home in AZ. We have been taking it to the local Chevy dealer here in Kingman AZ.
And yes I am jodenessky who had so much trouble with my 08 Skys brakes. I have no luck with new cars!
Good luck, and please post the resolution?
Regarding the noisy roof – there is a TSB:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1554872&highlight=roof+tsb
But I would not let a Dealer do what is described.
I did the fix described here – and it reduced the noise on my 2007’s top by over 95%:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1956846&highlight=noise+top
Good luck.
- Ray
Happy to have a Chevy dealer nearby with a good ‘Vette Tech.
The Corvette gas tank is a complex arrangement. It is a split, two-tank system, with I think 3 fuel pumps in it, to move gas between the tanks and to the engine. This system has had some reported problems. Usually they seem to be failure in the guage display (caused by components inside the tanks), and also failures that will shut the car down completely.
I have been troubleshooting the wipers on my '68 coupe for a long time and have replaced many parts. I have the wipers working and the wiper door responds to the override under the dash. My problem is that the wiper switch has no effect on turning the wipers on and off and the door wants to close on the running wipers unless I override the door. I control the wipers by the override under the dash. They are on unless I override. Just on and off, no two speed.
The vacuum hoses are correct, I have a new wiper relay under the center console, the vacuum valve in the right fender is new, the hoses are new and I have good vacuum. The up switch on the wiper door works and the linkage for the wipers and door is intact.
So, the problem is the wipers will not work with the dash mounted switch, will not park, and the door will close on them while they are running if I don't override. I suspect the wiper motor curcuitry.
If anyone has any ideas please let me know.
Thanks.
Next, I once owned a 1972. There is a relay inside the wiper motor itself. This controls a lot of the wiper motor. It, along with a cam arrangement, controls the 'park' feature. You may need this relay, or may need an entire new wiper motor. You also need a factory service manual to help with your work on this.
Must be me but I can't find a C3 section under Chevrolet Corvette. I could find the C6 topic but that is different from this one. Have you mistaken a Corvette forum with Edmunds?
But, do you maybe have an added on security system, and this is a light for it?????
I think www.tirerack.com would be a good starting place for research. You want to be careful because the '84s can be very harsh-riding cars (as your friend no doubt is aware by now).
Buy newest possible? Particular years? What is consensus? The good? the bad? the ugly? What would you buy?
BTW, C6 models ( 2005 and newer ) are even better yet. Love my C6.
Happy hunting.
A C4 can be a pretty cheap good ride, but you must be prepared for the usual reliability issues with this model. I'd certainly buy the newest model year C4 you could afford.
Thanks
Ron
They drive pretty well actually. The interior gets very hot due to the position and nature of the catalytic convertible, so without AC you're gonna die in there on a hot day. Some parts are hard to find, too, like heater/AC controls. Also the interior uses lots of cheesy plastic which tends to break.
Best thing for Vettes in these years, IMO, is to inspect for collision repair. Remember, if the paint looks too GOOD, be suspicious and go over that area with your hands, looking for ridges/patches. These cars were painted by hand originally, so any car claiming to be "original" shouldn't look all that good. Also assembly work was in general quite careless, so don't worry about things not fitting. That's the way they are.
Yes they are reasonably priced, as befits the supply and demand equation. You can find decent ones around $10K and really nice cars under $20K last time I looked. I'm sure value with increase as time goes on, but not at a rapid pace.
You are looking at cars almost 40 years old. Overall, there isn't one thing that should be considered. Everything on something this old could be about to fail, has been heavily modified, has been replaced with non-stock components, etc, etc.
From some limited reading about these older cars in a forum with many, many messages, it appears rust has become a big problem. Even frame rust is something that must be looked at. And, the 'cage' around the driver compartment that runs around the front window is now a problem for rusting out.
I've owned a 1964, 1972, 1981, and now a 2007. Each of these cars is a large jump in overall 'quality' from the older one.
The 'mid-years' of 1963-67 are just beautiful. By 1981 the car had become a great highway cruiser, with larger tires, low profile, and quietness. From 1971 until, what, about mid 1980's they were very underpowered.
My 2007 is a totally different car. By the 2005 C6 model, they got it right.
Think that guy and his B-I-L are still dealing on that 82?
Another interesting finding is that air blows out around the A/C coolant tubes where they enter the firewall when the heater is activated but not when in A/C mode, like air can't get through the shrouding. How is that possible?
Blending Door Problems