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Other than that, the secret to diesels is clean fuel, clean injectors, clean filters and keep them at 75 mph or under.
It's got 124,000miles on it, and I'm planning on cutting out the rear suspension points/floor pan, both side trunk sections, the spare tire well, and the drivers foot well and welding in new panels. As the car needs a new head gasket, I'm also planning on pulling the head, changing the timing chain, valve seals, injectors and gasket itself. Assume all the steering/suspension components are also renewed.
After replacing the front seats (I've found excellent cheap spares) and getting the entire car rust, ding and dent free, then repainting it, I was toying with the idea of putting a turbo/intake/exhaust on it. I'm not talking boy-racer crap, but quality parts that will at least give me the driveablility of 20 more hp. Then, to top it all off, I'd like to change the transmission to a standard from a 240D/300D and perhaps put in taller gears to get more highway use out of it.
Does this sound crazy to anyone? Can this engine handle the stresses of a mild turbo, or should I replace it as well? (Have a turbo spare at hand) Would the upgrades be worth it (not in monetary value, I'm past that, I know I'm never getting a cent more than half of what I paid for it) in terms of decent performance? If putting a stick in it isn't feasable, is there any way to modify the transmission so it uses first gear all the time? Would one want it to?
-Ryan
There is really only one serious grade up I-5, and that is leaving LA.
First gear would probably help alot to get it off the mark.
I have a 1980 240D with a manual 4 speed transmission and wonder if there was ever a 5 speed manual transmission (with over drive?) made for this vehicle? Someone told me that the European models had this available. I would love to be able to reduce the RPMs on the freeway and increase the fuel milage. If you know of anyone with one of these transmissions for sale, please let me know.
Thank you.
Christopher
Perhaps a 300 Turbo could pull an overdrive gear.
My 240 has plenty of power; it cruises at 75 easily but the RPM is a bit high for my liking. It feels like it should have another gear at about 55 -58 mph. I've just rebuilt the engine at 325,000 miles and it runs strong. I'm wanting to find out if Mercedes made such a trans. Any leads?
Thank you.
Christopher
My 240 has plenty of power; it cruises at 75 easily but the RPM is a bit high for my liking. If I keep the speed down around 60, it gets about 30-31 mpg; if I take it up to 70-75 it drops to about 25-26 mpg. (I'm in California so at 60mph, you'd better be in the slow lane or you'll get run over).
It feels like it should have another gear at about 55 -58 mph. The 4 speed manual has been trouble free but I'm always wanting to make that next shift into 5th when on the freeway. I've just rebuilt the original engine at 325,000 miles and it runs strong.
In response to your comment: if you lug any engine you wll ruin it; but if you've got half a brain and pay attention to the car you won't have any problem. Isn't that one of the reasons for a manual trans?
As much as I appreciate your opinion, I'm wanting to find out if Mercedes made such a transmission. It may have originally been in the 300D but it would still fit the 240D as most of the parts bolt up between 1977 and 1984. Any leads? Thank you.
Christopher
My wife and I teach in Europe (Italy, Switzerland) twice a year but I have no idea where to look while I'm there. I've never even seen a wrecking yard in either country. My Italian is passable and my German next to nonexistent so it is always interesting trying to discuss a technical matter without a translator.
Maybe the Mercedes club of America might know? Anyway, thank you again for your reply and I appreciate your efforts on my behalf.
Regards,
Christopher
Of course a 240D will behave differently, less power and less rpm's. It's probably best to leave it alone and let it run how it's designed and just use it within those limitations.
1. The temperature as operating registered on the mark between 40C and 80C and the heater blew warm air but I would not call it hot.
2. The oil pressure gauge while driving was at the top of the gauge on 3 and then would drop down when at idle.
3. The brake pad indicator light on the dash would come on when stopped and would blink on and off while driving.
It has been in the same family with 3 different owners since new. It has 2 snow tire on alloy wheels in the trunk as well as the original spare with jack that look that they have never been used. It tracks straight, no pulls or shimmys, I could find no rust. The dealer is willing to let me take it to my own mechanic for the once over.
It drove like a dream on the highway, so smoothe and secure. I will buy one for sure, but perhaps not this particular one.
Thanks, any insights would be appreciated.
1. The temperature as operating registered on the mark between 40C and 80C and the heater blew warm air but I would not call it hot.
Check the coolant level. If that's not it, then it's the climate control system, which really sucks on these cars. Maybe the heater valve servo is stuck halfway or something, or the electronic control isn't sending the right info to the valve. Not the end of the world, but it could get expensive to square it away. But persistence and the Internet can solve this problem.
2. The oil pressure gauge while driving was at the top of the gauge on 3 and then would drop down when at idle.
Fine, normal
3. The brake pad indicator light on the dash would come on when stopped and would blink on and off while driving.
Might be just a loose wire at the caliper, sounds like. A dealer is required to sell you a car with good brakes.
If it's really clean inside and out with no dents, bad paint, etc, you might offer $4K for it. Sure would be nice if it were a turbo diesel The regular 300D is dangerously slow for modern roads IMO. Merging onto freeways is a knuckle-whitener.
As you might notice I've got a lot to learn, but I'm in no hurry to buy one. How would I recognize the turbocharger under the hood?
Also, as I drove it the transmission shifted with a noticeable clunk between 1st and 2nd but was smooth thru the rest of the gears. Is this normal. I intend to use this car as a second car, and commute back and forth to work (an 80 mile round trip) probably 3 days a week and use my other car the other days. Is this realistic with a car of this age or am I dreaming? Safety and longevity are my main reasons for selecting this model. Thanks again.
No rust? Unbelieveabale! My bumper fell off, when the parts holding it on rusted. Picked it up and put it back on with stainless steel bolts! I live in a 4 season playground, so it has had its share of salty snow. My only complaint has been the lousy radio/tape deck it came with. I may do something about that some day.
Edmunds.com is the best friend I have found. Even the guys at the Mercedes special shops are not sure where relay switches (for signal lights) are and they will charge you five times their cost, then add an hour of labour for the $42 (Burnaby Auto Parts) part and 5 minutes to install it. The mercedes guys at Edmunds are worth their wieght in gold.
So glad to get my emails. Thanx
Turbo was hot on this car when it was made. Now there are some standard driven cars that will beat you at the light, (turbo doesn't kick in immediately, needs to get up to some km), but it still does the hills great going up and does not run away on you going down.
Not a dream, but a dream car!
Use the marks on the speedometer to do the shifts down and save your brakes on the hills.
Sure you can commute with it, but if you want that level of reliability you will have to make sure the car has everything it needs; in other words, to be used like a regular modern car on freeway commutes, you have to be *active*, not re-active, to the car's needs. So that means "looking for trouble" before it happens.
Things like belts, hoses, dirty fuel filters, battery cables, tires, clean coolant, clean brake fluid, exhaust valves that haven't been adjusted in ten years----things like that---that's what you want to move on ASAP.
These old cars are like bank accounts---if you want to make big withdrawals in longer trips, you have to make deposits now and then---otherwise? BANKRUPTCY!
You should get 22-26 mpg on the highway, which is very good for such a big car. Of course, diesel fuel is as expensive as premium, so that means keeping your car tip top for best mileage. And I wouldn't drive it over 75-80 mph for any length of time.
Brakes, valve adjustments, suspension-not too comfortable with-but am willing to learn, or should I say teach myself......ha ha. I rarely go over 65mph in my Scion, not because it won't, but I just don't make my cars work too hard as a rule. I'm going back to look at the 83 300d tomorrow(Sunday-no saleseman) to look more closely at the undercarriage for any rust or greasy, oily areas. Should the underneath be dry or are there parts that are normally covered with sludge at this age? The exhaust system looks relatively new.
Once the Mercedes mechanic goes over it and "if"he finds nothing major in need of repair I will offer $3500 and not a penny more. What do you think?
Many thanks.
one thing to check is the air filter. See if it's filled with oil blow-by from the engine.
Yeah, there will probably be some oil under the engine. Those diesels are old cars now, and you can't expect perfection.
Check for torn boots in the rear axles and see if the cruise control works. Also it would be great to check if the instrument panel lights work, but it needs to be dark to do that.
Oh yeah, check the coolant level because of the lukewarm heat issue.
Checked out the dieselgiant.com.mercedes diesel maintanence tips website, it was great, thanks.
Happy New Year.
A good tip is to start the engine COLD. If it fires right up, instantly, the engine is probably pretty tight. If it cranks and cranks when cold, that is not a good sign, although not necessary a disaster. It could mean old glow plugs, it could mean low compression, it could mean tight valves. Oil in the air filter is definitely a sign of some engine wear and blow-by, but again this isn't a disaster--just a sign of old age.
A diesel fuel leak would really stink up the front of the car.
I don't have experience with this type of issue, but am curious given that the car is designed to have a slight delay in the fan when started. Any suggestions?
let's face it, in Alaska the big rigs often run all night long at the truck stops. If it's cold enough, a diesel car can be near impossible to start.
you might also consider thinning out your fuel with kerosene, and getting the biggest, baddest a** battery you can find. And additives. And starting ether.
2 degrees? Man, that's tough for an old diesel.
Is there a relay switch or such that controls the lights in the climate control/radio panel? I have light in the guage (gas, oil, spedometer, etc.) panel. I did manage the new relay switch for the signal lights, so I am wondering if there is a similar cure for this problem.
However, how to start is needed info. In WINTER-- First time for the day you must press the accelerator firmly to the floor 3 times. THEN --after the glow plugs go out--you turn the key on without pressing the accelerator. The next time on that outing, having parked and restarting, you need to press the accelerator only 1 time to the floor, THEN--after the glow plugs go out-- turn the key on without pressing on the accelerator.
Short rides with a diesel in cold weather is hard on it. I often idle it (locked doors) if in and out quickly on a short trip. (NO idle laws here, yet)
As for the climate control lights, no, those teensy lights don't require a relay. A relay is a BIG SWITCH that is activated by a small switch. The idea is that a small switch cannot handle the amount of current needed but a big switch can absorb it. Signal lights can't be activated by a tiny switch, hence you need the relay or 'flasher".
But the climate control lights use very little electricity and don't need the protection of a relay.
As for the lights- check all the fuses.
Is you car a 1983/84 300d?
Yes, I checked the fuses; they are all o.k. I figure it's wiring problem in that the oddometer, cruise control have not worked as well, for many, many years. The light problem came with the paint job that resulted in electrical mishaps or age and whatever happened.
$100 rebuilt on the Internet.
I have been very happy with the synthetic, especially in winter- engine seems to run smoother- you can tell the difference when it just "purrs".
Mine is a 82 300D turbo; 255K+ miles.
I dont make that much money and put 30K miles a year on my car and have been driving 180K plus mile diesels for years and never once had an engine or transmission go of natural causes. Nuisance stuff sure but nothing major. If I bought a newer car I would drive upwards of $5,000 equity offf in one year and I can't lease with that many miles so I have to buy and have a $700/month car payment for anything good enough to take that many miles. If I buy a high mileage Benz for $2,000 and drive it for three months without a major repair I break even on the car payments and can throw it away. If I luck out and drive it for three years (90Kmiles) like I do with a $500 repair ever three months or so I save a ton. If an engine or tranny goes I can toss it and buy another. There is no other car you can do it with. I have tried Volvos, Saabs, BMWs and Subarus and got burnt by them all.
I test drive the car and if the engine sounds good and doesn't smoke, the tranny works well, and the body is decent, tires good and brakes sound, the chances of getting 3 months is close to 100%, chances of a year are 80+% chances of getting 3 years are much better than 75%. The mean time between major failure on MB's is very long. I have driven three of them from 180K to up over 320K and the only major failures was one blown engine when someone put gas in the tank instead of diesel and a blown tranny when AAA towed it on the rear wheels 45 miles (bad starter).
I say if you have $2000 to spend there is nothing safer, more comfortable, with best chances of coming out ahead than a high mileage diesel mercedes. I hit black ice doing 85mph on rte 89 in NH and was going sideways and was able to get control without rolling or going off the road like a dozen other cars did that night. What other $2,000 car would want to be in when that happens? I am assuming that you dont care about some windows not working, maybe no air (giant sunroof), just safe reliable low cost transportation. Not to mention how easy they are to fix yourself if something breaks to save money.
Not everyone has $3,000-$5000 to spend and you can not throw away a $5,000 car if something goes wrong like you can a $2,000. One mans opinion.
You know, you get what you pay for, so you're quite right that one can make do with a $2,000 high mileage diesel if you are able to do stuff yourself and aren't too fussy.
So I agree with most of what you say except your "odds" of surviving 3 years. I'd say more like 20%, not 75%. I don't think the vast majority of people have the good luck you have had with old, tired, beat-up MB diesels selling for cheap.
Whenever anyone asks me to look at an old diesel for them, I can always find thousands of dollars of needed repairs---but the cars still motor down the road. The suspension is more or less dead, the engine smokes, no AC, some windows don't work, the driveshaft rattles, one CV joint is knocking, the brakes groan and vibrate (but they stop), the belts and hoses are old, the coolant is brown muck, etc.
So my feeling is why not buy a car for twice the price that has all this stuff done already? You'll be paying it out sooner or later anyway.
Old cars are fun but they have to be safe.
If you can find or make an old diesel safe for $2K, then great.Go for it! But I don't really agree with the argument (not that you're making this argument--NOT implied) that just because a person only has X dollars, this gives them the right to drive a smoking dangerous old beater.
As for driving on ice, that's really about tires and luck IMO.
What gives old Benz diesels their mythology is that they are well built. They can "look" great 30 years later. But most of these "high milers" have already had head work, transmissions and thousands and thousands of dollars in repairs done to them.
We who buy them cheap at the end of their lives don't know about all that in most cases. We didn't make the deposits, we are just taking the withdrawals for all that good care some of them had.
But you have the right idea. If it's over 200K, don't pay a lot of money for one. I couldn't agree more.
I'm experiencing a couple glow plugs failing in my 82 300SD. This will be the third time this year I've had to replace 2 or 3 of them (I have not kept track of how many/which ones previously failed). The first time I used OEM, the second time I had to use Autolite due to availability. I will go back to Beru or Bosch, but any thoughts on what else could be causing the failure or how to test for it? The glow plug light doesn't do anything weird and I don't leave the key on/engine off or do anything else that would obviously run the relay excessively.
Thanks for your time.