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Miscellaneous Truck Questions

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  • akjbmwakjbmw Member Posts: 231
    Are they original Ford type or Pep Boy specials? Also, perhaps more importantly, is your fan belt adjusted too tight?
    My last Pep Boy special lost the pulley flange from the shaft after 10K miles. Operative term is LAST. Labor is far more expensive than the part.
  • dstrunkdstrunk Member Posts: 1
    I am interested in buying a used (1997) Chevrolet c/k 1500 with the 5.7 liter (350) engine. Aside from calling a dealer, is there an internet site that list what the ID code is for the 5.7 liter. I want to make sure it is not a 5.0 liter moter.
  • BrutusBrutus Member Posts: 1,113
    You might check the Kelley Blue Book site. I know they have the ID codes for the new vehicles. They might still have them for the 1997 models, but I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure they don't have the ID numbers for the used vehicles, but they might still list the 1997 models as new. The Kelley Blue Book site is: www.kbb.com
  • kenangkenang Member Posts: 1
    I have a question. Why is it that Edmund's puts the trade-in value of my '95 Chevy S-10 at $8,000, and Kelley Blue Book puts it at only $6,000. That is quite a big difference. Especially since all the dealers look at Kelley Blue Book. Any thoughts???
  • BrutusBrutus Member Posts: 1,113
    Actually, the dealers don't use Kelley Blue Book either. They have their own book. It's rare for a dealer to offer you Kelley Blue Book value unless they are making money off you on the other side of the deal. The people who are offered what they consider to be a fair trade-in for the vehicle are usually paying well over dealer invoice for the new vehicle, possibly even closer to MSRP. If you get a deal for the new vehicle of around $500 over dealer invoice or less, you probably will not be satisfied with what you are offered on the trade-in.
  • BrutusBrutus Member Posts: 1,113
    Remember to factor in rebates when figuring out the true dealer invoice. If you are paying $500 over dealer invoice and there is a $1,500 rebate being offered on that vehicle, you are actually paying $2,000 over dealer invoice. Once again, the dealer is likely to offer more for your trade-in because his profit margin is pretty healthy on the sale of the new vehicle.
  • stanfordstanford Member Posts: 606
    Make sure that you know what you want to buy the new vehicle for, and what you're willing to take on the trade in. Once you know these numbers, make note of the difference. Dealers will play all sorts of number games, but as long as the amount (price - tradein) is where you want it to be, it doesn't really matter.
  • BrutusBrutus Member Posts: 1,113
    Exactly. The net figure is all that matters when you have a trade-in. Figure out the bottom line net you are willing to accept, rather than getting stuck on the trade-in or new truck price.
  • fred9fred9 Member Posts: 32
    Does anybody know if there is a MPG difference
    between a SRW and a DRW on a 1999 F350 4x4 diesel?
  • stanfordstanford Member Posts: 606
    There will be one -- extra rolling resistance. I doubt it will be significant, though.
  • BrutusBrutus Member Posts: 1,113
    The DRW also weighs a little more. If I remember right, the added payload going from a SRW to a DRW is about 1,100 pounds, whereas the GVRW increases by about 1,300 (9,900 pounds to 11,200 in the 1 ton). That seems to indicate that the DRW adds 200 pounds of weight. Still, I agree with Stanford that the mpg difference shouldn't be significant, if you notice it at all. The 4wd and lower axle ratios (higher number) will make more of an impact.
  • staggerstagger Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me when Edmunds is going to update the "New Trucks" section with 1999 pricing, options, etc. for the Dodge Rams? Thanks, (used the 1998 data earlier this year in trying to purchase a'98 Ram Quad, 250, V10; the info proved very useful however, no such luck in processing the order since there apparently was very limited production/delivery of V10 trucks.....I want to get going on my order as soon as possible...)
  • BrutusBrutus Member Posts: 1,113
    The Kelley Blue Book site tends to get their pricing updated a little quicker, so you might check in on that site periodically.

    www.kbb.com
  • pttaylorpttaylor Member Posts: 34
    I currently have a 1998 Dakota with 215R75x15 tires (factory-equiptment). These are mounted on 15x6 rims. My question is what is the maximum tire width I can upgrade to? I was thinking of 225 or 235's in R75. Wheel-well clearance is no problem. i am just wondering if the rims at 6 inches are wide enough to accomodate wider tires.

    Please e-mail or post, as I lurk here in the pick-up forum and get much appreciated info! -PT
  • stanfordstanford Member Posts: 606
    I wouldn't go over 235. That's the largest I've seen on 6" wheels before on a truck. FYI, that's the stock combo on some duallys these days.
  • edsel1edsel1 Member Posts: 2
    I hate to sound like an idiot, but who makes the Z-71 4x4????? I can't find it in edmunds.
  • fredwoodfredwood Member Posts: 79
    Chevy. I believe the Z-71 is an option package for the 4x4 that has bilstein shocks, limited slip,etc.
  • ruzruz Member Posts: 59
    (stagger) et al -- I don't have a firm date yet for updates for the 1999 prices here at the Edmunds site...as you can see if you check the various models at http://www.edmunds.com/edweb/manufact_t.html, some makes & models have been updated for 1999.

    I will let you all know as soon as I find out that other prices have been updated.


    PS -- Kelley's site doesn't have the 1999 Dodge Ram prices either.
  • edsel1edsel1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, fredwood. That helps out alot!
  • NuberOneNuberOne Member Posts: 29
    Check this site out for latest prices.

    http://www.carprices.com
  • ParriscParrisc Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had shake problems with the Chevy 3500 one ton dually. At 45 mph and 65 mph I get a shake from the rear end. At 75 mph the truck will bounce in the rear very radically. If you have had this problem what did they have to do to fix the problem.
  • cobra98cobra98 Member Posts: 76
    Sounds like you're drive shaft might be out of balance.
  • lwflwf Member Posts: 223
    Or your tires.
  • cobra98cobra98 Member Posts: 76
    > Or your tires.

    could call. I overlooked the obvious...

    A friend of mine had a Bronco II which had similar symptoms, and it turned out that his driveshaft went out of balance. But, as lwf indicated, it's more probable that the tires are the cause.
  • cobra98cobra98 Member Posts: 76
    oops, I meant "good call", not "could call"
  • ruzruz Member Posts: 59
    Edmunds has updated a couple of makes/models with 1999 prices:

    Chevrolet C1500 LS Extended Cab Shortbed

    1999 Chevrolet K1500 LS Extended Cab Shortbed

    Ford SuperDuty Extended Cab and Crew Cab
  • wrangler2wrangler2 Member Posts: 2
    I have always owned a chevy truck and I know the terminology such as silverado &cheyenne I would like to know in a Ford one half to truck as well as a dodge what is compatable to a silverado and cheyenne
    Thanks
  • stanfordstanford Member Posts: 606
    The Ford line starts with Work Series (F150) and goes up through XL and XLT (all) to Lariat (also all). The Lariat comes with leather everywhere, the Work Series even comes without carpet, the other two are inbetween :-)
  • mharde2mharde2 Member Posts: 278
    Dodge has WS (plane Jane) SST (sport) ST (standard) and Laramie SLT (top of the line)
  • MikeAnnanMikeAnnan Member Posts: 1
    Can any one help. I live in the UK but am about to buy a New Horizon 5W Trailer. How can I get a copy of the Ford and Dodge Trailer Towing Guides sent to me?
  • lwflwf Member Posts: 223
    Mike,

    http://www2.ford.com/searesults.asp?qu=trailer+towing&ct=fordcom&country=Global+Links&x=7&y=22

    might be a good place to start.
  • WoodbeeWoodbee Member Posts: 3
    Need advice: Getting my first truck--Dodge Dakota--whats the best way to protect the bed? Rhino stuff? Hard Tonneau cover? One of those bed enclosers tops? WHAT?? The trucks just for running around. Won`t haul very much. Any Pros and Cons??
  • sgerbearsgerbear Member Posts: 3
    i have a 97 chevy s-10. when i turn the wheel it makes a waan waan sound. i checked the steering fluid and the grease fittings. everything seems to be fine. does anyone have any suggestions???
  • casper47casper47 Member Posts: 17
    to Woodbee
    I think the spray on bed liner like Ziebart has is
    the best liner out now. It does not shift in the bed and take the paint off to rust under the liner. It can be repaired if you do get it marked up from hauling things in the bed. It's a little more expensive than a drop in liner but it is worth it in the long run.
    Casper47
  • stanfordstanford Member Posts: 606
    Are you turning it as far as it can go?
  • ruzruz Member Posts: 59
    Woodbee --

    You should also check out the following topics, which have a lot of dicussion about spray-in liners, tonneau covers, and all sorts of ways to cover the bed.

    topic #96, truck accessories
    topic #252, R hino liners vs. spray in liners
  • drydry Member Posts: 1
    1998 Silverado Extended Cab Z71 Side Step Short box any one else having problems with the wheel wells not having guards in them causing the paint to spider on the fender from stones flying up into it.
  • cutiecutie Member Posts: 1
    no, it is just whenever i turn the wheel, i think its the pwr steering pump. the truck makes the same noise when i rev the engine. its like a whining sound, but worse.
  • smith6smith6 Member Posts: 11
    I had the same noise on a 91' Cutlass Suprme and replaced the steering pump. All it did was make me poorer. I have come to believe that its just some GM pump designs make noise.
  • sgerbearsgerbear Member Posts: 3
    i hope your wrong. this is the most horrible sound i have ever heard. sometimes wont even allow me to turn the wheel. it is going to the dealer for them to look at and worry about. thanks for your help
  • smith6smith6 Member Posts: 11
    My situation was not that bad. The noise was only really annoying when the window was opened and radio off. Best of luck at the dealer and may the gods of your wallet be with you.
    PS sorry I couldn't be of any help.
  • hawkpilothawkpilot Member Posts: 75
    I assume you have checked the fluid level in the reservoir for the PS pump? Low fluid level can make them whine like that. I'd also verify the drive belt is correctly adjusted, and clean, with no oil or ATF/PS fluid on it. It may be slipping.

    Are your tires a lot fatter than stock? or underinflated?

    Does your vehicle have some sort of pressure switch on the PS system that boosts the idle speed when you operate it? If so, and that is not working, the idle speed could be too low for the pump to do its job.

    The basic problem is that the pump is working harder than it should, or the fluid level is too low, or it is in fact defective in some way.

    HP
  • hawkpilothawkpilot Member Posts: 75
    Sorry, I just re-read your post and see that you have checked the fluid. My other comments still apply...

    HP
  • smith6smith6 Member Posts: 11
    I just found a good website for those of you who are researching about a vehicle. www.carpoint.com The only problem with it is that it doesn't have much info about diesels. It has a great reliability setup. Check it out.
  • ruzruz Member Posts: 59
    Hey, you're on the best site for researching a vehicle...www.edmunds.com!!!
  • smith6smith6 Member Posts: 11
    I am going to be buying a truck for hauling a three car trailer(were the first car sits over the bed of the truck. I am looking at early 90's probably F350. The problem is that I want 4wd and in those years the 4wd was only available in single rear wheel and not in the dually design. I am concerned about the weight that is going to be over the rear axle. Any info will be a help.
  • stanfordstanford Member Posts: 606
    There are several companies who make the adapters to fit DRW onto an SRW truck. I'll see if I have an ad lying around -- they're basically heavy duty wheel spacers. A full set, with wheels, ran around $1600 last time I checked. You could get by for a lot less with used wheels and only doing the rear wheels (if you don't mind carrying two different spares).
  • jvaughnjvaughn Member Posts: 4
    I recently purchased a 1999 K2500 Chevy Ext Cab pickup with LT245/75R16E all season tires. On the inside of the door it says to inflate the front tires to 55 lbs
    and the rear tires to 80 lbs, but when I took delivery of the truck all tires had 45 lbs. I am somewhat confused as to what is the proper inflation for the tires. Does anyone know? Thanks
  • stanfordstanford Member Posts: 606
    The door plaque simply states the pressure needed to carry the rated load. If you're just cruising around town, 45psi will be plenty.
  • mccdon1mccdon1 Member Posts: 32
    Can I get an XLT without the preferred equipment package (607A)? I keep finding different answers. I want the XLT seats, but I hate power windows. Thanks
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