Are they original Ford type or Pep Boy specials? Also, perhaps more importantly, is your fan belt adjusted too tight? My last Pep Boy special lost the pulley flange from the shaft after 10K miles. Operative term is LAST. Labor is far more expensive than the part.
I am interested in buying a used (1997) Chevrolet c/k 1500 with the 5.7 liter (350) engine. Aside from calling a dealer, is there an internet site that list what the ID code is for the 5.7 liter. I want to make sure it is not a 5.0 liter moter.
You might check the Kelley Blue Book site. I know they have the ID codes for the new vehicles. They might still have them for the 1997 models, but I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure they don't have the ID numbers for the used vehicles, but they might still list the 1997 models as new. The Kelley Blue Book site is: www.kbb.com
I have a question. Why is it that Edmund's puts the trade-in value of my '95 Chevy S-10 at $8,000, and Kelley Blue Book puts it at only $6,000. That is quite a big difference. Especially since all the dealers look at Kelley Blue Book. Any thoughts???
Actually, the dealers don't use Kelley Blue Book either. They have their own book. It's rare for a dealer to offer you Kelley Blue Book value unless they are making money off you on the other side of the deal. The people who are offered what they consider to be a fair trade-in for the vehicle are usually paying well over dealer invoice for the new vehicle, possibly even closer to MSRP. If you get a deal for the new vehicle of around $500 over dealer invoice or less, you probably will not be satisfied with what you are offered on the trade-in.
Remember to factor in rebates when figuring out the true dealer invoice. If you are paying $500 over dealer invoice and there is a $1,500 rebate being offered on that vehicle, you are actually paying $2,000 over dealer invoice. Once again, the dealer is likely to offer more for your trade-in because his profit margin is pretty healthy on the sale of the new vehicle.
Make sure that you know what you want to buy the new vehicle for, and what you're willing to take on the trade in. Once you know these numbers, make note of the difference. Dealers will play all sorts of number games, but as long as the amount (price - tradein) is where you want it to be, it doesn't really matter.
Exactly. The net figure is all that matters when you have a trade-in. Figure out the bottom line net you are willing to accept, rather than getting stuck on the trade-in or new truck price.
The DRW also weighs a little more. If I remember right, the added payload going from a SRW to a DRW is about 1,100 pounds, whereas the GVRW increases by about 1,300 (9,900 pounds to 11,200 in the 1 ton). That seems to indicate that the DRW adds 200 pounds of weight. Still, I agree with Stanford that the mpg difference shouldn't be significant, if you notice it at all. The 4wd and lower axle ratios (higher number) will make more of an impact.
Can anyone tell me when Edmunds is going to update the "New Trucks" section with 1999 pricing, options, etc. for the Dodge Rams? Thanks, (used the 1998 data earlier this year in trying to purchase a'98 Ram Quad, 250, V10; the info proved very useful however, no such luck in processing the order since there apparently was very limited production/delivery of V10 trucks.....I want to get going on my order as soon as possible...)
I currently have a 1998 Dakota with 215R75x15 tires (factory-equiptment). These are mounted on 15x6 rims. My question is what is the maximum tire width I can upgrade to? I was thinking of 225 or 235's in R75. Wheel-well clearance is no problem. i am just wondering if the rims at 6 inches are wide enough to accomodate wider tires.
Please e-mail or post, as I lurk here in the pick-up forum and get much appreciated info! -PT
(stagger) et al -- I don't have a firm date yet for updates for the 1999 prices here at the Edmunds site...as you can see if you check the various models at http://www.edmunds.com/edweb/manufact_t.html, some makes & models have been updated for 1999.
I will let you all know as soon as I find out that other prices have been updated.
PS -- Kelley's site doesn't have the 1999 Dodge Ram prices either.
Has anyone had shake problems with the Chevy 3500 one ton dually. At 45 mph and 65 mph I get a shake from the rear end. At 75 mph the truck will bounce in the rear very radically. If you have had this problem what did they have to do to fix the problem.
A friend of mine had a Bronco II which had similar symptoms, and it turned out that his driveshaft went out of balance. But, as lwf indicated, it's more probable that the tires are the cause.
I have always owned a chevy truck and I know the terminology such as silverado &cheyenne I would like to know in a Ford one half to truck as well as a dodge what is compatable to a silverado and cheyenne Thanks
The Ford line starts with Work Series (F150) and goes up through XL and XLT (all) to Lariat (also all). The Lariat comes with leather everywhere, the Work Series even comes without carpet, the other two are inbetween :-)
Can any one help. I live in the UK but am about to buy a New Horizon 5W Trailer. How can I get a copy of the Ford and Dodge Trailer Towing Guides sent to me?
Need advice: Getting my first truck--Dodge Dakota--whats the best way to protect the bed? Rhino stuff? Hard Tonneau cover? One of those bed enclosers tops? WHAT?? The trucks just for running around. Won`t haul very much. Any Pros and Cons??
i have a 97 chevy s-10. when i turn the wheel it makes a waan waan sound. i checked the steering fluid and the grease fittings. everything seems to be fine. does anyone have any suggestions???
to Woodbee I think the spray on bed liner like Ziebart has is the best liner out now. It does not shift in the bed and take the paint off to rust under the liner. It can be repaired if you do get it marked up from hauling things in the bed. It's a little more expensive than a drop in liner but it is worth it in the long run. Casper47
You should also check out the following topics, which have a lot of dicussion about spray-in liners, tonneau covers, and all sorts of ways to cover the bed.
topic #96, truck accessories topic #252, R hino liners vs. spray in liners
1998 Silverado Extended Cab Z71 Side Step Short box any one else having problems with the wheel wells not having guards in them causing the paint to spider on the fender from stones flying up into it.
no, it is just whenever i turn the wheel, i think its the pwr steering pump. the truck makes the same noise when i rev the engine. its like a whining sound, but worse.
I had the same noise on a 91' Cutlass Suprme and replaced the steering pump. All it did was make me poorer. I have come to believe that its just some GM pump designs make noise.
i hope your wrong. this is the most horrible sound i have ever heard. sometimes wont even allow me to turn the wheel. it is going to the dealer for them to look at and worry about. thanks for your help
My situation was not that bad. The noise was only really annoying when the window was opened and radio off. Best of luck at the dealer and may the gods of your wallet be with you. PS sorry I couldn't be of any help.
I assume you have checked the fluid level in the reservoir for the PS pump? Low fluid level can make them whine like that. I'd also verify the drive belt is correctly adjusted, and clean, with no oil or ATF/PS fluid on it. It may be slipping.
Are your tires a lot fatter than stock? or underinflated?
Does your vehicle have some sort of pressure switch on the PS system that boosts the idle speed when you operate it? If so, and that is not working, the idle speed could be too low for the pump to do its job.
The basic problem is that the pump is working harder than it should, or the fluid level is too low, or it is in fact defective in some way.
I just found a good website for those of you who are researching about a vehicle. www.carpoint.com The only problem with it is that it doesn't have much info about diesels. It has a great reliability setup. Check it out.
I am going to be buying a truck for hauling a three car trailer(were the first car sits over the bed of the truck. I am looking at early 90's probably F350. The problem is that I want 4wd and in those years the 4wd was only available in single rear wheel and not in the dually design. I am concerned about the weight that is going to be over the rear axle. Any info will be a help.
There are several companies who make the adapters to fit DRW onto an SRW truck. I'll see if I have an ad lying around -- they're basically heavy duty wheel spacers. A full set, with wheels, ran around $1600 last time I checked. You could get by for a lot less with used wheels and only doing the rear wheels (if you don't mind carrying two different spares).
I recently purchased a 1999 K2500 Chevy Ext Cab pickup with LT245/75R16E all season tires. On the inside of the door it says to inflate the front tires to 55 lbs and the rear tires to 80 lbs, but when I took delivery of the truck all tires had 45 lbs. I am somewhat confused as to what is the proper inflation for the tires. Does anyone know? Thanks
Can I get an XLT without the preferred equipment package (607A)? I keep finding different answers. I want the XLT seats, but I hate power windows. Thanks
Comments
My last Pep Boy special lost the pulley flange from the shaft after 10K miles. Operative term is LAST. Labor is far more expensive than the part.
between a SRW and a DRW on a 1999 F350 4x4 diesel?
www.kbb.com
Please e-mail or post, as I lurk here in the pick-up forum and get much appreciated info! -PT
I will let you all know as soon as I find out that other prices have been updated.
PS -- Kelley's site doesn't have the 1999 Dodge Ram prices either.
http://www.carprices.com
could call. I overlooked the obvious...
A friend of mine had a Bronco II which had similar symptoms, and it turned out that his driveshaft went out of balance. But, as lwf indicated, it's more probable that the tires are the cause.
Chevrolet C1500 LS Extended Cab Shortbed
1999 Chevrolet K1500 LS Extended Cab Shortbed
Ford SuperDuty Extended Cab and Crew Cab
Thanks
http://www2.ford.com/searesults.asp?qu=trailer+towing&ct=fordcom&country=Global+Links&x=7&y=22
might be a good place to start.
I think the spray on bed liner like Ziebart has is
the best liner out now. It does not shift in the bed and take the paint off to rust under the liner. It can be repaired if you do get it marked up from hauling things in the bed. It's a little more expensive than a drop in liner but it is worth it in the long run.
Casper47
You should also check out the following topics, which have a lot of dicussion about spray-in liners, tonneau covers, and all sorts of ways to cover the bed.
topic #96, truck accessories
topic #252, R hino liners vs. spray in liners
PS sorry I couldn't be of any help.
Are your tires a lot fatter than stock? or underinflated?
Does your vehicle have some sort of pressure switch on the PS system that boosts the idle speed when you operate it? If so, and that is not working, the idle speed could be too low for the pump to do its job.
The basic problem is that the pump is working harder than it should, or the fluid level is too low, or it is in fact defective in some way.
HP
HP
and the rear tires to 80 lbs, but when I took delivery of the truck all tires had 45 lbs. I am somewhat confused as to what is the proper inflation for the tires. Does anyone know? Thanks