I don't know who you have been talking to or what you are reading, but in the real world, the Dodge Cummins with the Auto is one heck of a good rig for towing. Just go to campgrounds or ranches where they tow big campers, trailers, livestock trailers. I have never heard of any real transmition problems. I have alot of experience with two Dodge/Cummins w/autos. Never a transmition problem. Even if they have detuned the engine some, it has PLENTY of power.
Go check out the forums on "cab-over camper" (I believe it is #800-something), and "Diesel vs Gas", and many others. You should have plenty of info. But either the Ford or Dodge will be a great truck with those wonderful diesel engines.
OK I gotta used 95 ranger, i've added over 10,000 miles to the 37000 that were there when I got it without problems except I think sometimes the electrical system is posessed by evil spirits. Every now and then on the highway the speedo gives out and I look down to see that Im doin 0 mph. Sometimes my wipers come on without me flipping the switch. Also sometimes the interior light takes awhile to go out. Just wonderin if anyone else has had similar problems. I knew before hand 95's had more than usual electrical problems but the dealer was practically begging me to drive it away because,let's face it, there isn't exactly sky high demand for 4 cylendar reg cab rear drive 5 speed pickups.
I have a 1998 Ford Ranger and am having a problem with the bed leaning. I have taken it to be fixed numerous times. The last time, the dealer put in 1 1/2 extra leaf spring on the one side. Now the truck handles horribly especially when going around turns. In addition, the truck is starting to lean in the other direction.Just wondering if anyone else has experienced similar problems or knows how to fix this one.
I have a 1996 Chevrolet CK1500 with 105K miles on it. Whenever the weather is cold (below 60F) I notice a rumbling noise. It is hard to tell where exactly is it coming from, but I believe it has something to do with the brakes. I notice it during the first two or three stops after a cold start up, if the weather warms up, it seems to go away. I haven't noticed any change in stopping distance, petal effort or movement. My question: what could possibly be causing this?
Sorry to repeat myself but this is the second time that I have had to put this question on a different topic posting. I'm very busy with a full-time job and classes for teacher certification so I am not always able to get on the net and check for responses to my questions. My question is this...Due to financial considerations I am considering selling my 95' Pontiac Firebird; which I've had for a little over a year; and buying either a 1999 Ford Ranger Sport with a 2.5 engine or a Chevy S-10 Flairside with a 2200 Vortec 4L engine. Which is the better buy? Give me the pros and cons of each. I would like to get the V6 but that would push me at least $1000 out of my range; that is if I can get them down from $16,144 to $13,000 on the S-10 and $16,2?? to $13,000 for the Ranger. I would appreciate any and all advice and suggestions you may have. I hope when I check back in a day or two, this topic will still be listed. Thanks wannaranger(or an s10)
Go with your gut. Why? Because, although I don't own one, the ranger gets better write-ups than the S-10. Despite little difference--gotta go with the leader. Also--get the six. You'll be banging your head on the wheel while you BEG people to let you in off the ramp.
Go for the rang er with a 5 speed manual and 2.5 and you should actually have a pretty quick truck. But you gotta have the stick to make the most out of most four cylenders. Ranger doesn't give me even close to sports car acceleration by any means but it pulls harder than test numbers I've seen suggest if you know how to drive it right. With over 140 pound-feet of torque that really comes on tap from as little as 2500 rpm up to a little over 3000 revs, I haven't had to beg my way out of the merging lane yet. And I just have the little 2.3. Displacement and power are slightly up for the new model. The 2.2 S10 I drove was pitifully slow. I was didappointed even with first gear acceleration. The truck couldn't even get out of its own way.
I own a 1996 Mazda 2300 which I bought used with 90000 miles. It looks and runs great, it even smells new. Does anyone know when the timing belt needs to be changed? I looked in the owners manual and could find no info about timing belts. With 90,000 miles I don't want to do any damage to the engine if the belt goes south.
Hello everybody, I have recently purchased a used 1995 Chevrolet full size 1/2 ton pick up truck. I don't have a owners manual for it, so I was wondering if anybody could direct me to a web site that may provide that information? Thank you, NB
Get LT-rated tires with a mild/moderate tread pattern. The should hold up well, not be too noisy, and give you good traction. CostCo has some good options to check out. The P-rated tires have poor durability (hence, the "P = passenger" rating), despite how rugged the tread looks on some tires.
I am looking in purchasing a new 2000 dodge dakota sport with a 4.7 liter V8, 5-speed,single cab, with all the options, what is the dealer invoice? How much should I pay over dealer invoice?
You are logged on to a good site for costs and advice for how much to pay. Also check out www.carbuyingtips.com for car buying advice. Also check out www.kelleybluebook.com for costs. You are better off doing your own homework than having others do your homework for you. You need to know all that relates to the short answer you are looking for in order to get the best dea.
The Dakota you are talking about is pretty basic, but few people these days don't get the club cab. It might be harder to find it on a lot.
I am the happy owner of a 00 silverado ext/cab 1500 ls 3dr and am looking for advice on the fit of a fiberglass cap or lid on the sb model. Can leer or are products be installed without removing or altering the tailgate protection ?
I put a Leer on my 99 LS ext. cab, and had to replace the "whalestail" tailgate cap with another. The replacement cost about $25 through the Chevy dealer.
I put a raider cap on my 2000 that I got in Spokane wash. and I got a different tail gate protector one that has a lip on it so that the water dosen't get inside but it came with the cap for no charge and I still have my original also so it I ever sell the cap I can put it back on. I have been really happy with my raider caps I tipped one truck over and the cap saved my head it diden't hardly crack and the f250 was clear on its top.
I am wondering if any body has put a Lund visor [moon]on a 99 or 00 chev silverado and if so did it drop your milage so as that you could tell it and also do you have a lot of wind noise where the wind goes up through the top of it. I am only getting 14-15 mpg and the dlr is trying to say it is my visor that is doing it but I don't feel that it should be that bad from the visor and want some one else to tell me their story. Thank you
Does anyone have or use the "FuelMaster" that JC Whitney sells? Does it actually work in providing better fuel economy. One post I saw somewhere said they use it and gained a 10% increase! I drive a 1992 Chevy C1500 single cab with the 4.3L v-6 engine which doesn't get that bad mpg (around 18 - 20 average). I was just wondering because every penny saved is a penny earned!
Look in the gas mileage or fuel economy (I can't really remember the exact name of it) section here in trucks. You will not be dissapointed because a good number of those posts are about the Ford Super Duty.
Just got a fantastic deal on a dodge ram 2500 with the cummins engine. While at the dealership, another buyer mentioned a magazine and web site (same name) with tips to maximize diesel engine performance. Can't remember the name of the magazine/web site. Does anyone know the web site or magazine name?
Is there any way to override the automatic headlights on my '00 Silverado. I find this feature rather irritating, and would rather control their operation myself.
Just push your dome over ride button in four times and they will go off. The dn side is every time you do it and shut the pu off they revert back to auto. rd@truckautoaccesories.com has a switch that you can install that won't let them go back to auto. [or will have in short order] email them and find out.
Thank's to both of you for your help. I should of been more specific with my original question. I don't have a problem with the DRL'S, I think they are a good feature. Plus they look pretty cool. My problem is with the regular night time headlights that come on when backing out of my garage, even on a bright sunny day. Then once I am out of the garage they shut off leaving the DRL'S on. I don't think all of this on and off of the headlight's can be very good for them, plus I bet they are rather spendy to replace. Thanks, lwittorf, I will check out that switch, hopefully it will work for me. HAPPY NEW YEAR !!
pushing the dome override button twice not only shuts off the drl's ,it disables the auto headlights ,until you either push the button 2 more times or your next restart.When all else fails read the book.......
Does anybody know if getting the 4.10 axle ratio over the 3.73 would be beneficial if I intend on lifting a F250 Superduty and replacing the stock tires with 35's. I have been told that larger tires raise your axle ratio and I would like to avoid changing the gears in the future.
Reference my last question. I was wrong about the 4.10. I guess only a 3.73 limited slip or a 4.30 limited slip is available on the 2000 F250 Superduty 4WD Crewcab. Which would be better for large tires? Would the 4.30 perform similar to the 3.73 when mated with 35" tires?
Iam getting ready to purchase 90 thur 94 1500 ext cab log bed Pickup. In looking for one,what problems has anyone heard or had with these on these models Thanks: Mike
Hi all. I have a question I hope someone may have some insight into. I've got a '98 S10 LS Ext Cab (5 spd 4 cyl. 4x2) that doesn't stop worth anything in rain or any inclement weather. I've already got into one accident b/c the truck slid right into the vehicle in front of me and I'm trying to avoid a repeat of this scenario.
Is there anything I can do to make this thing stop? The brakes "pulsate" (ABS feature?) but lurch the vehicle forward regardless of whether I pump them or stomp them. Can anyone suggest anything I can do to stop this sliding madness? My wife is threatening to make me trade in my "toy" truck if I get in one more accident, regardless of fault.
Thanks!
BTW, I have stock everything right down to the Tiger Paws tires. Thanks again!
Hi guys, I'm here to report that i have just bought a new 'used' truck. i traded in my '94 chevy for a '98 Chevrolet, one ton Crew Cab, with 350 auto. i've been wanting a CC for a long time, preferabbly 3/4 ton, but the brand new Fords and Chevy's are too expensive for me right now, and this truck is in immaculate condition, and I knew the previous owners, who took good care of it, and I got a fair price. I wish it had the Vortec 454 in it, but the 350 with the 4.10 actually runs better than i expected for this heavy truck. I'm sure my mileage will only be one mpg better than a 454, but still a good running truck.
My question is to anyone who knows about this year/model truck:
is replacing the door speakers difficult? i would like to upgrade.
The engine in the 1-ton Chevy's is detuned a littel compared to the 3/4 ton, for emissions. is there anyway to get the same engine PROM as a 3/4 ton? what are the options for aftermarket engine programming, (Hypertech? anyothers?) anyone with experience with this engine? Quad? Steve? unixgod? Difficult? Mileage penalty?
On January 3rd, 2000. I was told that I could no longer order a 2000 model for a quad cab slt. I had to order a 2001 model. (which was about $300. more than a 2000 model) The question is, would this qualify for the manufacture rebate of $500.00? Which is going on till April of this year. Or am I out of luck, because it is going to be a 2001 model arriving in March of 2000. Any input would be helpful, thank you. George
Jan. 3, 2000 I the front main bearing came out of its port and snapped my timing chain. The 94 truck had 92,000 miles on it and resulted in having to replace the engine. The engine was very well maintained and not driven hard. A few minutes prior to this happening there was a knocking noise, but no other symptoms prior to this. Anyone else have this happen to them? Can anyone explain why this happened?
You're real close on your ratios. By all means get the higher numerical gear(4.30) if getting larger tires. Heck, I'd get the 4.30's even if not getting taller tires.
OK you 'mod' techy's. Is there some place you can look for performance results of different exhaust systems. I have a '98 Vortec 350 that I am interesting in modifying, and some folks suggested the Gibson system. I looked on their web site, but couldn't find price or performance data.
Whats the best bang for the buck?? Cat back only, or with headers? Any other brands people have experience with??
Comments
I don't know who you have been talking to or what you are reading, but in the real world, the Dodge Cummins with the Auto is one heck of a good rig for towing. Just go to campgrounds or ranches where they tow big campers, trailers, livestock trailers. I have never heard of any real transmition problems. I have alot of experience with two Dodge/Cummins w/autos. Never a transmition problem. Even if they have detuned the engine some, it has PLENTY of power.
Go check out the forums on "cab-over camper" (I believe it is #800-something), and "Diesel vs Gas", and many others. You should have plenty of info. But either the Ford or Dodge will be a great truck with those wonderful diesel engines.
but the dealer was practically begging me to drive it away because,let's face it, there isn't exactly sky high demand for 4 cylendar reg cab rear drive 5 speed pickups.
Thanks
wannaranger(or an s10)
Go with your gut. Why? Because, although I don't own one, the ranger gets better write-ups than the S-10. Despite little difference--gotta go with the leader. Also--get the six. You'll be banging your head on the wheel while you BEG people to let you in off the ramp.
Ranger doesn't give me even close to sports car acceleration by any means but it pulls harder than test numbers I've seen suggest if you know how to drive it right. With over 140 pound-feet of torque that really comes on tap from as little as 2500 rpm up to a little over 3000 revs, I haven't had to beg my way out of the merging lane yet. And I just have the little 2.3. Displacement and power are slightly up for the new model. The 2.2 S10 I drove was pitifully slow. I was didappointed even with first gear acceleration. The truck couldn't even get out of its own way.
Thank you,
NB
The Dakota you are talking about is pretty basic, but few people these days don't get the club cab. It might be harder to find it on a lot.
ps if you give me the full vin# I can list all origanal equipment that came with your truck,will forward that also, good luck with your CHEVY
The Flareside pickup is what is commonly known as a "step-side". The Styleside is the standard sized wide bed pickup.
Also, with the Flareside, you actually get less bed space overall. That is because the wheel wells are outside of the bed proper.
Hope this helps you!
Any response would be appreciated!
Floppy
Sorry.
Floppy
Thanks!
Is there anything I can do to make this thing stop? The brakes "pulsate" (ABS feature?) but lurch the vehicle forward regardless of whether I pump them or stomp them. Can anyone suggest anything I can do to stop this sliding madness? My wife is threatening to make me trade in my "toy" truck if I get in one more accident, regardless of fault.
Thanks!
BTW, I have stock everything right down to the Tiger Paws tires. Thanks again!
I'm here to report that i have just bought a new 'used' truck. i traded in my '94 chevy for a '98 Chevrolet, one ton Crew Cab, with 350 auto. i've been wanting a CC for a long time, preferabbly 3/4 ton, but the brand new Fords and Chevy's are too expensive for me right now, and this truck is in immaculate condition, and I knew the previous owners, who took good care of it, and I got a fair price. I wish it had the Vortec 454 in it, but the 350 with the 4.10 actually runs better than i expected for this heavy truck. I'm sure my mileage will only be one mpg better than a 454, but still a good running truck.
My question is to anyone who knows about this year/model truck:
is replacing the door speakers difficult? i would like to upgrade.
The engine in the 1-ton Chevy's is detuned a littel compared to the 3/4 ton, for emissions. is there anyway to get the same engine PROM as a 3/4 ton?
what are the options for aftermarket engine programming, (Hypertech? anyothers?) anyone with experience with this engine? Quad? Steve? unixgod? Difficult? Mileage penalty?
Thanks guys!
cdean
George
you will find an owners manual and cheap too.
Whats the best bang for the buck?? Cat back only, or with headers? Any other brands people have experience with??
Thanks
Cdean