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Thats almost impossible to diagnose with just that description. Does the tapping increase with engine speed? If you are not getting oil circulation...your engine will be dead soon, look at the pressure gauge. Try to isolate the noise with a 2 foot section of a broom handle against your ear and touching it against different parts of the engine. Becarefull so your hair, tie, etc does not get in the fan or belt. I had a similar clicking noise in my alternator, it still worked but made the noise.
had a friend with a '98 5.7L and he had an exhaust leak that made a faint tapping type noise. it was more noticeable when you put your foot into it than at idle.
I have a 97 Sierra extended cab short bed with 4.3l Vortec, when the truck goes into overdrive it does not run as smooth, I let off the gas and it still feels like the motor is missing a lick. I have been told that the torque converter has alot to do with this in the new models to cut down on rpms which causes the ride not to be as smooth, also that the 4.3 is not big enough for that size truck. The dealer has reprogrammed the ECM because of this but still the same problem. Has anyone else had this problem or is normal for this size truck.
Thanks for the info. The tapping noise is most noticeable at idle in park. The oil pressure is fine, never drops below 40 even when hot, but the preassure is measured at the filter not at the engine. May have somekind of blockage, I will have to check it.
Stevek, My engine makes a constant clicking at idle, but its only the fuel injectors. They are more audible at lower engine speeds.
Lkirk, your truck will stay in overdrive when you let off the gas, then you try to accelerate its bogging the motor down. Try this once up to speed, let you foot off the gas, gently depress the brake...the trans should then down shift to third...then accelerate.
I recently purchased a 98 Chevy Z71 with the 350 5.7 Vortec engine. A friend of mine told me that his father just purchased a 98 2wd Chevy with the 350 and that he had a special program downloaded onto the truck's computer. He claims that this program modified the gear shifting ratio, resulting in an increase in HP. Besides the download, he stated that he added a high performance air filter($50) and a high performance exhaust system. After these modifications, he stated that he now has 290 HP, compared to the 255 HP on the truck straight from the factory!!! In addition, his mpg increased!! Has anyone heard of this? How feasible is it to do this to a new truck? I am concerned that it will void my 3 year/36K mile warranty. Please let me know what you think or have heard.
Check out www.galebanks.com. There are aftermarket exhaust systems that increase hp and torque while improving mpg. Gale Banks claims increases of close to 90 lb-ft of torque and over 50hp, while improving mpg by 15%. If you decide to shop for an after market system, remember that you will likely get what you pay for. The good ones aren't cheap. Gale Banks offers two systems. Their less expensive one is in the $600-$800 range. The full Power Pak is in the $1,850 range. Add about $450 for installation. The Gale Banks website discusses warranty issues.
My shopping for a leftover '98 S-10 or Sonoma pickup is not going well. I'm looking for an extremely loaded model: 4WD, Vortec V-6, ext. cab, auto trans, tilt wheel, cruise control, power everything, remote keyless. A couple of salesmen tell me they simply don't come in equipped like that, and are unlikely to do so in the '99s. (Sonomas seem to be a little more "upscale", and may come in with 4WD/auto/V-6/ext. cab, but no other goodies.) It seems I have a few choices: 1. Factory order. But is it worth ordering a vehicle that apparently wasn't meant to exist? Will I have resale problems? And won't I get jacked on my trade-in? "Sorry, but in the 8 weeks since you placed your order, your Sunfire has dropped in value to 85 cents." 2. Wait and see if perhaps a moderately well-equipped Sonoma shows up somewhere (this may be annoying, and I'd have to compromise, but might get better trade-in value); 3. Go for a full-size truck (OK, OK, quit all the grunting and hooting!), but I *really* don't want anything that big; 4. Do nothing. My '97 Sunfire, though underpowered, is admittedly satisfactory; or 5. Something I haven't thought of yet. I'd rather not retail my car myself, though; even if I do, that still looks like #2; besides, I don't think the spread between retail and wholesale is that great for my car, as it's high miles and American. I've also posted this in the Smart Shopper conference; I'm open to any and all opinions. Thank you all, and happy trucking!
Chances are that you will always get "jacked" on your trade-in if you pay close to dealer invoice for a new vehicle. The more you pay above invoice, the happier you will be with the trade-in value you are quoted. In other words, it's an illusion.
If you plan to trade-in a vehicle in less than three years, chances are very good that you will not be satisified with the trade-in value you are quoted unless you got a really good deal when you bought the vehicle you are trading in.
Where do you live at? You can get a Sonoma or S-10 equipped like that here in Phoenix! If I were you, though, I would consider the new Silverado or Sierra. They are state of the art trucks and being just restyled, they will hold their value. The Sonoma & S-10 will be restyled in 2001 I here and when they are the current body style's retail value will go down.
Well, I'm in upstate NY, Azchevyguy! Though I've been in your fine city and enjoy that kind of weather a lot. I guess equipment packages are regional after all. You can hardly find an S-10 with a V-6 engine here, much less a ZR2 or something. -- I like the looks of the new Silverado, but it's just too pricey and BIG for me. As for the restyling, a salesman led me to believe that the S-10 was restyled THIS year for 1999. Maybe I misunderstood. Mostly I have to decide if I should special order or just wait. If there really was a restyling this model year, then it could take much more than 6 weeks to get my '99 S-10 or Sonoma. If it can be done in 6 weeks, I just have to be really aggressive to get anything close to wholesale value in trade for my Sunfire, but I imagine this will be a losing battle whatever the timing. Hmmm. I'm kind of agonizing over this, I know, but it's all moot for a good month anyway, for it will take at least that long for the '99 S-10s to hit the lots in my area. -- Thank you all for your advice; I'll keep you posted!
I have been having problems with my '97 K1500 with the 5.7L Vortec motor(have 43k miles on it). The check engine light goes on and off since early in the summer. At first the dealer re-set it a couple of times, told me it may have been a loose gas cap. About 2 month ago one of the (of 5 total) oxigen sensors needed replacement. Last week another sensor was replaced and now the light is on again. This time it is the EGR valve. I think this is all emissions related or even possible that the computer is bad. I think GM should cover all these since how can I break emission?????? (brakes, tranny...etc maybe, but not sensors).
Any suggestion or oppinions, other calling Chevy's 800 number and start wining?
FIRST, GO TO ANOTHER DEALER IT SOUNDS LIKE THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT IS WRONG. CHEVY HAS NOT HAD PROBLEMS WITH SENSORS LIKE THAT.
WHEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON IT(COMPUTER) STORES THE CODE UNTIL IT IS RESET. IF YOU WERE TO GET A CODE 48 THERE ARE A LIST OF THINGS TO CHECK. NOT JUST RANDOM REPLACEMENT.
I WOULD NOT CALL GM 800 IT DOES NOT REALLY GET YOU ANYWHERE.
BEST ADVICE FIND A NEW GM/CHEVY DEALER WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING.
YOU COULD ALSO ASK OLD DEALER WHAT THE CODE # WAS AND TAKE THAT INFO TO A NEW DEALER.
The dealer got a very good reputation, and were able to fix problems previously, which several other dealers were not. They may not be the best, but I had made the rounds and the other dealersn are a...holes. I did call the Chevy 800# and they offered to split the cost. I just hope they will not jack up price to cover the other half.
I just bought a 98 Sonoma 2WD ext.cab. At only 1200kms the 3rd door is making a rattle/squeak noise. I've heard rumours that this may be a common problem. Anyone else have this problem?
Never mind I found it elsewere in townhall. Wish I would have read this before I shelled out $28K (Canadian$$)I can't believe this problem has been around for 3 model years with no fix.
have yet to see EPA ratings or published numbers, but every test drive or comparison i've read has given mileage observed during the test, and they've all said 15 city/20 hgwy.
I just looked at the new 1999 GMC Sierra at a local dealer and was very suprised. I've had four Ford F series trucks in a row and thought they were the best thing since sliced bread. The last GMC I owned was a 1973 3/4 ton and it was nothing but headachs. I've been looking for a new truck and thought the new Ford Super Duty was going to be it but now I'm not so sure. I'm interested in the 3/4 ton crew cab 4X4 SLE trim. I do light hauling for work and "heavy" hauling for kids and their toys. The interior is much more comfortable (plus for wife) and it drives alot nicer than the Ford. It's a bit cheaper than the Ford but it's also smaller. The only down side is the 90 day wait if you special order. Has anyone else had a look at them? I'd be interested in your opinion?
I have a '97 K1500 with the Z71 package, which provides a heavy duty auxiliary tranny cooler, but no engine oil cooler. I tow a camper which weigths about 2K lbs, have 3 people and gear in the truck, which is good for another 600 lbs. I change the oil every 3K. Should I oput in an auxiliary engine cooler. Lot of the towing is in the mountains of the north east and I am planning to keep the truck forever.
Hi everyone! I've found a used '97 S-10 ext. cab pickup that I might be interested in. Here are its stats: 20600 miles, 4x4, 4.3-l Vortec V-6, stepside body, automatic, bucket seats, 3rd door, power locks/windows/mirrors, air, tilt/cruise, am/fm cassette, drop-in bedliner (hiding something? That's another subject), a few nicks and scratches. Salesman offered me $10500 in "difference"; by my calculations, it should be more like $7800. This truck is on a lot in central New Jersey, about 4 hours away from me (I was visiting family when I stumbled across it); my thought is to sit tight (although it's my favorite color combination!) and see if it's still there at month's end. Salesman claims $10500 is the lowest he can go on the "difference", but I don't believe that for a second. This could be the truck of my dreams, but I refuse to leave $2500 or more on the table. I wasn't planning on the stepside body, but it's in my favorite color combination, so I'm waiting to see what advice/opinions I get in "Smart Shopper". (Here in "Pickups" as well!) I'll keep you all informed. -- Hey, isn't it unveiling time for Brutus's '99 F-250?! Can't wait to hear about it!
Hey, I'm planning on buying 97 Z71 5.7L Vortec, leather, all power, extended cab, third door with 38,000 miles. It is one owner truck with guy trading in every two years due to mileage he puts on truck. I've got him down to $20,800 on price which I think is a good price. Any suggestions on this model truck and any problems encountered would be appreciated. I'll be getting rid of 1993 Wrangler for this truck. Kinda of a hard decision for me. Please advise.
I have one '97 just like that with 45K miles. Don't get me wrong I like the truck and I am only going to list my problems, which I believe are not common. 1. After numerous attempts to fix a rear seal leak the rear-end had to be replaced. Chevy paid for a complete break job and extended the warranty on the rear-end for 60K. Not a bad deal but is was a hassle. 2. The car got FIVE oxigen sensors. I had two fail already and the EGR also was replaced. Although it is out of warranty Chevy did pick up half of the cost. 3. The original tires suck. I replaced them with 265/75-R16 Michelins, they have over 30K on them and show no sign of wear (at 45 PSI). 4. Yes the third door makes some stress noises, but they all do (also the Fords and Dodges have the same problem). 5. Forget about good gas milage, but again if you looking at something that big it is expected (average about 15, may get 17-18 on the highway, but it is hard to drive it slow). The governor takes over when you reach 100MPH. Some good points: rides good, handles well, comfortable seats, great power, tow like an SOB. good luck
I have a 92 K1500 extended cab chevy with 78K. I just recently had a complete brake job FR/RR. The dealership called and said the rear axle seals where leaking into the rear brake drum and needed to be replaced. Is this something anyone else has had a problem with? 78K and rear axle seals go out? This was not cheap at $450 bucks.
I recently purchased a '98 Z71 Chevy. I am looking to purchase some different tires. Mine came with the standard 265 70/R16 Wrangler RTS tires. I want some mud grips to use only during hunting season. Preferably I want something rather economical that does not hum very bad or hurt gas mileage. Anyone have any suggestions? It has been suggested that I get BF Goodrich T/A Radials. I have heard they meet this criteria. Any commments or suggestions would be appreciated.
Does anyone know why chevy/gmc have lower tow ratings than dodge and ford, (comparing like trucks)?I'v always liked the GMC truck, but tow ratings can't convince me to buy one. Did tow ratings increase for the 99 models? I read where Izuzu will be building the future diesels. Will this be a good thing? I like the gmc's, but they are number three behind ford and dodge on how much they can pull. I really think they can pull more than the numbers indicate, but got to think about that warranty. Being overloaded would void warranty in case of problems. Get the numbers up and i'll buy.
Unfortunatly that is a common thing(rear seals). In fact I see a few to many newer trucks coming in for this. $450 is a bit much but you need to remove the rear axle one at a time to replace them. Which means a diff service happens at the same time.
I've heard that GM tow ratings are underscored for liability reasons. Personally, i've towed way more than rated on a couple of occaisions, and still doing fine. I wouldn't think you would have any warranty issues, but then again, how would anyone know what you were pulling?
I OWN A 97 CHEVY S-10. WHEN I TURN THE WHEEL, IT MAKES A WAA WAA SOUND. I CHECKED THE STEERING FLUID AND THE GREASE FITTINGS. EVERYTHING SEEMS TO BE OK. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS???
Sounds like something is up along the lines of the cluch.(not 100% sure). A dealer is required to do warranty.Try other dealer if possible, or contact GMC that first dealer is not wanting to do warranty
Tlaski If the sound is there when the truck is in neutral and you are stopped but it goes away when you press in the clutch then it is your front transmission or cluster bearings. they are turning in neutral. If it was a bad throw out bearing It would make noise when you put the clutch in. A bad pilot shaft bearing will also make noise only when the clutch is depressed.. If the noise is there when you are moving and you put the clutch in but are still moving and the noise goes away It may be bearings but more than likely gears
if at all possible, get that vortec in the '96 and later trucks. absolutely awesome power, smooth as silk, doesn't even compare to previous chevy's or the competition.
I am considering the purchase of a 1998 S-10 regular cab short box 4x4. The rig is new & fully loaded. The price is right. Anyone have any pro or con info on this truck. If so please let me hear it. Thank you. Russ
Does anyone know when GMC will start making a short bed crew cab in the new style PU? I've been told by one dealer in January, but most are saying next September... Does anyone know for sure? Thanks...
friend of mine just took delivery on a '99 3/4 ton C/K style crew cab shortbed chevrolet with 454. apparently they are being made, just very hard to find.
I just purchased a 99 Chevy C1500 Ex Cab 3rd door old body style. Would like to know if any one is experiencing the same problem I'm having. The problem is excessive wind turbulences. The dealership replaced the windshield which wasn't installed properlly. This didn't help... Know the dealership is trying tell me it is a design characteristic. When i get over 40 M.P.H wind noise is excessively loud it sounds like your doing a 100MPH with a 30MPH side wind at all times. I owned a 96 regular cab and didn't have this problem even with a wind deflector and window visors....on it... Any suggestions., Or is it normal for the extended cabs to have this much wind noise? this problem.
have not heard of this problem. Sounds like the dealership doesn't know what is wrong maybe try another dealer. Call around to dealers, see if anyone else has seen the problem before.
Ace I have the same problem with my 98. I have had it to the dealer 3 times and they finally put a new windshield in it. It still sounds the same. I put a deflector on the hood and it cut the noise in half. The windshield shop said they have had 8 or 9 other extended cab's in for the same problem. I think it is a design problem and I will just have to live with it but I don't like it. Jeff
Hi trucklovers. I have a boring truck that I need your input on.
94 GMC Sonoma 5 Speed. Its embarassing how little I know abou this truck I've had for 5 years. It's the base model. I was in college when I bought it so price was the only issue. All I asked for was a tape player and air conditioning. The thing is slow as Christmas & has no power.
Since then I've used it for little else than city & highway driving. No towing or heavy loads (maybe a load of mulch here or there). However, I have been kind of hard on the gears during acceleration due to its low power.
Its simple, boring, but paid for.
I have 80,000 miles on it now & think I'll just drive it till the wheels fall off. (I'm not much of a new car/truck enthusiast)
The only problems I've had were during the first 2 years. I had to replace and/or have work done on the air conditioner three times and had to replace the alternator once. All of this was under warranty. Since then, its been trouble free for 3 years.
If you're still reading, thanks. Now my question.
I've been religious with maintenance, how much longer will it last? Anything I should be worried about on this model?
My wife & I plan to shell out some dough on a 99 Accord EX V6 and get a 3 year note. Our payments will probably be around $500 a month. (I hate car payments & interest so I'd rather get it over with quickly). After its paid off, I might get another vehicle but I don't want to get one while we're paying for hers. The plan is for her to drive her new car for 10 years.
Can I expect to have trouble free driving for the next 3 years? More? How many miles would this thing go? I'm kind of attached to this truck so I'd love to drive it for another 5 years. I guess I just like ugly ducklings. My last vehicle was an 82 Pontiac Bonneville that spewed more exhaust inside the car than outside.
The z refers to my other car(datsun). I own a 1977 GMC sierra classic heavy 3/4 ton. I bought it off the father in law. I know next to nothing about trucks so input would be greatly appreciated. It has 129,000 original miles on it, I also got a canopy, camper, and a CB thrown in with it! It is 2wd and has a 454 in it. I would like to possibly rebuild the motor and try and dress it up a bit, it has never been hit and is straight with good paint. A few cancer spots have appeared but they will be manageable. Anyone owned one of these beasts? What can I expect for trouble? The bed seems to be leaning to the right as looking at the vehicle from the rear. I have had someone tell me this is common, because the bed is laid on top of wood rails(?). I thought it may be bushing wear of some type? As I said earlier I would greatly appreciate any input!
Keghead, you said you take care of your truck, and "driving it til the wheels fall off" is waht I'm doing to my car. That venerable old Grand Marquis is creeping up on 20 years, 18 of which my parents had it and 2 of which she was mine. I credit this to religious regular preventative maintaince, sometimes things were changed out long before they needed to be, and 99% of what's wrong with her now was caused by setting in the back yard unused for three years until I came along and rescued her. You're using your head in paying off your wife's car quickly, and keeping it ten years. Be sure she absolutely loves it though, cause my Grand Marquis was only supposed to be kept for ten years, and my parents ended up driving it 15, letting it go to pot in the yard 3, and me driving it 2! Just make sure paying $500 dollars a month won't work a hardship on you if something does break down. And you said you were hard on the tranny of your underpowered truck, so try having a transmission cooler installed. It's basically a radiator for your tranny that cools the fluid, which reduces wear & tear on your transmission. Now, if I haven't bored anybody away from the rest of this post, there is a reason a car-driver like me visited a pickup truck forum. Nostalgia. My grandad used to drive a 1974 GMC pickup before he got his current 1984 Chevy Silverado when it was 2 yrs old. I loved that old GMC, and wished he had never got rid of it. It had, besides the original horn, an "ooga" horn. (That's about the sound it made too!) He forgot to take that horn off when he sold the truck, and has wanted another one ever since. That old truck was great. I may drive other makes of vehicles in cars, but in the unlikely event I ever get a truck, you can bet it will be a GMC!
Comments
4.3l Vortec, when the truck goes into overdrive
it does not run as smooth, I let off the gas and
it still feels like the motor is missing a lick. I have been told that the torque converter has alot to do with this in the new models to cut down on rpms which causes the ride not to be as smooth, also that the 4.3 is not big enough for that size truck. The dealer has reprogrammed the ECM because of this but still the same problem. Has anyone else had this problem or is normal for this
size truck.
My engine makes a constant clicking at idle, but its only the fuel injectors. They are more audible at lower engine speeds.
Lkirk,
your truck will stay in overdrive when you let off the gas, then you try to accelerate its bogging the motor down. Try this once up to speed, let you foot off the gas, gently depress the brake...the trans should then down shift to third...then accelerate.
Check out www.galebanks.com. There are aftermarket exhaust systems that increase hp and torque while improving mpg. Gale Banks claims increases of close to 90 lb-ft of torque and over 50hp, while improving mpg by 15%. If you decide to shop for an after market system, remember that you will likely get what you pay for. The good ones aren't cheap. Gale Banks offers two systems. Their less expensive one is in the $600-$800 range. The full Power Pak is in the $1,850 range. Add about $450 for installation. The Gale Banks website discusses warranty issues.
If you plan to trade-in a vehicle in less than three years, chances are very good that you will not be satisified with the trade-in value you are quoted unless you got a really good deal when you bought the vehicle you are trading in.
Now you owe me a beer. LOL. Hope you enjoy your truck.
Where do you live at? You can get a Sonoma or S-10 equipped like that here in Phoenix! If I were you, though, I would consider the new Silverado or Sierra. They are state of the art trucks and being just restyled, they will hold their value. The Sonoma & S-10 will be restyled in 2001 I here and when they are the current body style's retail value will go down.
Any suggestion or oppinions, other calling Chevy's 800 number and start wining?
FIRST, GO TO ANOTHER DEALER IT SOUNDS LIKE THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT IS WRONG. CHEVY HAS NOT HAD PROBLEMS WITH SENSORS LIKE THAT.
WHEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON IT(COMPUTER) STORES THE CODE UNTIL IT IS RESET. IF YOU WERE TO GET A CODE 48 THERE ARE A LIST OF THINGS TO CHECK. NOT JUST RANDOM REPLACEMENT.
I WOULD NOT CALL GM 800 IT DOES NOT REALLY GET YOU ANYWHERE.
BEST ADVICE FIND A NEW GM/CHEVY DEALER WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING.
YOU COULD ALSO ASK OLD DEALER WHAT THE CODE # WAS AND TAKE THAT INFO TO A NEW DEALER.
was visiting family when I stumbled across it); my
thought is to sit tight (although it's my favorite
color combination!) and see if it's still there at
month's end. Salesman claims $10500 is the lowest he can go on the "difference", but I don't believe that for a second. This could be the truck of my dreams, but I refuse to leave $2500 or more on the table. I wasn't planning on the stepside body, but it's in my favorite color combination, so I'm waiting to see what advice/opinions I get in "Smart Shopper". (Here in "Pickups" as well!) I'll keep you all informed. -- Hey, isn't it unveiling time for Brutus's '99 F-250?! Can't wait to hear about it!
I'm planning on buying 97 Z71 5.7L Vortec, leather, all power, extended cab, third door with 38,000 miles. It is one owner truck with guy trading in every two years due to mileage he puts on truck. I've got him down to $20,800 on price which I think is a good price. Any suggestions on this model truck and any problems encountered would be appreciated. I'll be getting rid of 1993 Wrangler for this truck. Kinda of a hard decision for me. Please advise.
the third tends to rattle on gravel roads etc. Just a factory glitch sometimes it can be fixed other times not. GREAT motor!!
1. After numerous attempts to fix a rear seal leak the rear-end had to be replaced. Chevy paid for a complete break job and extended the warranty on the rear-end for 60K. Not a bad deal but is was a hassle.
2. The car got FIVE oxigen sensors. I had two fail already and the EGR also was replaced. Although it is out of warranty Chevy did pick up half of the cost.
3. The original tires suck. I replaced them with 265/75-R16 Michelins, they have over 30K on them and show no sign of wear (at 45 PSI).
4. Yes the third door makes some stress noises, but they all do (also the Fords and Dodges have the same problem).
5. Forget about good gas milage, but again if you looking at something that big it is expected (average about 15, may get 17-18 on the highway, but it is hard to drive it slow). The governor takes over when you reach 100MPH.
Some good points: rides good, handles well, comfortable seats, great power, tow like an SOB.
good luck
I just recently had a complete brake job FR/RR.
The dealership called and said the rear axle seals where leaking into the rear brake drum and needed to be replaced. Is this something anyone else has had a problem with? 78K and rear axle seals go out? This was not cheap at $450 bucks.
Unfortunatly that is a common thing(rear seals). In fact I see a few to many newer trucks coming in for this. $450 is a bit much but you need to remove the rear axle one at a time to replace them. Which means a diff service happens at the same time.
Sounds like something is up along the lines of the cluch.(not 100% sure). A dealer is required to do warranty.Try other dealer if possible, or contact GMC that first dealer is not wanting to do warranty
Anyone have any pro or con info on this truck. If so please let me hear it.
Thank you.
Russ
wind noise is excessively loud it sounds like your doing a 100MPH with a 30MPH side
wind at all times. I owned a 96 regular cab and didn't have this problem even with a wind deflector and window visors....on it...
Any suggestions., Or is it normal for the extended
cabs to have this much wind noise?
this problem.
have not heard of this problem. Sounds like the dealership doesn't know what is wrong maybe try another dealer. Call around to dealers, see if anyone else has seen the problem before.
94 GMC Sonoma 5 Speed. Its embarassing how little I know abou this truck I've had for 5 years. It's the base model. I was in college when I bought it so price was the only issue. All I asked for was a tape player and air conditioning. The thing is slow as Christmas & has no power.
Since then I've used it for little else than city & highway driving. No towing or heavy loads (maybe a load of mulch here or there). However, I have been kind of hard on the gears during acceleration due to its low power.
Its simple, boring, but paid for.
I have 80,000 miles on it now & think I'll just drive it till the wheels fall off. (I'm not much of a new car/truck enthusiast)
The only problems I've had were during the first 2 years. I had to replace and/or have work done on the air conditioner three times and had to replace the alternator once. All of this was under warranty. Since then, its been trouble free for 3 years.
If you're still reading, thanks. Now my question.
I've been religious with maintenance, how much longer will it last? Anything I should be worried about on this model?
My wife & I plan to shell out some dough on a 99 Accord EX V6 and get a 3 year note. Our payments will probably be around $500 a month. (I hate car payments & interest so I'd rather get it over with quickly). After its paid off, I might get another vehicle but I don't want to get one while we're paying for hers. The plan is for her to drive her new car for 10 years.
Can I expect to have trouble free driving for the next 3 years? More? How many miles would this thing go? I'm kind of attached to this truck so I'd love to drive it for another 5 years. I guess I just like ugly ducklings. My last vehicle was an 82 Pontiac Bonneville that spewed more exhaust inside the car than outside.
Thanks for listening. Appreciate feedback.