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Comments
The Forester had poor range, but when I switched to the 2nd one, it got better. Maybe the battery was low? There is a tiny phillips screw on the back of mine, though I've never opened it.
-juice
I wonder if you can wholesale purchase those, because they have to be programmed to your car some how. Maybe only dealers can do it.
-juice
-Brian
I have a 2000 Legacy wagon. The plugs he took out were non-platinum.
I had a '75 Spyder. Sorry I ever sold it.
re the fuel filter: Thanks for the info on replacing it yourself. Will keep it in mind for the next change. The $45 charge seemed cheap relative to the $125 that Kimmell quoted. (BTW, Kimmell is a Baltimore area tire/tuneup chain). I just called my Subaru dealer, who would put it in at $50, so Kimmell is the real outlier here.
re the discussion on dealers: Washington (DC) Checkbook's survey of its subscribers consistently finds dealers to charge high prices and give poor service. The high price is understandable, but it mystifies me why concentrating on one class of vehicles would not allow them to do a good job as well.
Ross
Ken
He got an ACT, which isn't a bad idea if you modify the engine (turbo, S/C, etc.)
-juice
Thanks
Patti
If so, the knock sensor ought to pick that up audibly, and then retard the spark timing slightly. In other words, if it goes away, the knock sensor is just doing it's job.
If that's the case, try a bottle of dry gas in the tank, there may be condensation in there.
-juice
$1000 clems. Unbelievable. They said I need a new track which costs $670 dollars plus labor. Unreal.
#202 of 223 post-purchase questions. by nonracer1x Aug 11, 2002 (09:27 am)
we just bought a FORESTER 2.5XS yesterday and have a few questions (which I had not prepared for despite my best efforts):
1. extended warranty protection: I usually pass on this for other purchases but hope to own the subi far past the 3 year/30K miles warranty. No way to predict the future, but does anyone have any insight whether $875 might be worth it for a 6yr/60K (=three more years/30K miles)coverage? the finance person (lot of profit on this I've heard) mentioned the moving parts, electrical and microcircuits that might mess up. Is subi any more durable than honda/vw which i've owned in the past? .... please see the other three questions and answer if you can. Thank you.
44.5K miles on the original set). I had to replace one tire at about 20K and
was not able to find a tire to match the original Bridgestones where I was. So
my current spare is unused, and the correct tire size, but not an exact match.
That's always bothered me somewhat - I blew out the one original tire on a dirt
road out in the middle of nowhere, and fortunately I had the matching original
spare to replace it and continue on. But if the same thing would happen again,
I'd only have the non-matching spare. I do get out on some remote dirt roads
like that on occasion.
Should I be concerned about this at all or am I being overly cautious? Would I
be better off replacing all 5 tires or would replacing just the 4 be good
enough? Thanks in advance for your input.
I'm about to change the engine oil in my sport for the first time and am wondering if there is any special advise or warnings.
I'm sure the question has come up before -- perhaps step by step instructions have been compiled somewhere -- or is that too systematic and boring?
I'd also like to know where to order subaru parts at a favorable price. I want to get a luggage strap for the cargo area.
Hope you're all staying cool, grace.
As to your question, a spare that's close will be fine as you seem like the type to use it only as an emergency tire rather than to rotate it through usage and wear it out. Anything that will get you the 50 miles to a shop would be appropriate.
A bigger concern would be that you drove another 24,500 miles with a tire that was a different size than the other 3 on an AWD vehicle. Be advised that Subaru's standard for tires is that there be no more than .25 inches variance in circumference. Since the other tires were half worn out, you were definitely outside that.
Economically, the best strategy would be to buy 5 new tires and rotate the spare through to keep it the same diameter. Then you also get more wear out of a given set of tires.
IdahoDoug
celica115 - take it to the dealer. It should be covered under the warentee. Make sure the mechanic did not screw up (by accident have some of the oil leak).
Buy a sturdy pair of ramps to elevate the front end. Lots more room to work. Not mandatory, just recommended. You'll also need a new crush washer for when you re-install the drain plug (flat side to the pan, right, Crew?)
Make sure you're draining the right pan. Oil pan is more towards the front of the car, tranny pan is further back. Warm oil drains better, so warm the engine up a bit.
Drain the pan first, then loosen the oil filter a bit & let it drain a minute before you remove it. Careful, it still has a lot of oil in it. Or, drill the bottom of it & drain it that way before removal.
The general consensus here is use something other than a FRAM filter. Personally, I use NAPA Gold, others have their preferences. IIRC Subaru's filter is a Purolator. Lubricate the filter gasket with clean oil, and screw it on hand-tight, about 3/4 turn after the gasket makes contact with the filter mount. Use good oil, too... no sense scrimping with such a vital compnent. I use Castrol; others, again, have personal preferences.
As long as you're still under the car, now's a good time to spray the sway bar bushings with a bit of lithium grease, Keeps 'em from squeakin' (special thanks to Juice!)
Refill the oil (check the manual for amount), back it down off the ramps, then check your oil level on level ground after allowing the oil sufficient time to drain throught the engine to the pan. Top off as needed, and I think you're done. I usually take a cople extra minutes to check everything else under the hood before I button it up. Note the LOF in your manual and save your receipts. Voila!
OK, gang... bail me out. What did I forget?
Cheers!
Paul
I might add...partially fill oil filter before installing (judge angle of installed filter so as to avoid spilling out.)This avoids dry spot in the lube system in initial start up.
Consider using Fumoto engine oil drain plug (avail from internet model # Subaru F105.) Fram has a version available which may work ok but it looks a little cheap. This makes changes cleaner and easier.
Allow oil to stop dripping (as much as possible or as your patience will allow) It's amazing how much dirty oil will drip, drip ,drip before it stops !
Use Mobil 1 or similar full synthetic (not Syntec)
if you want a cushion on effects of heat from turbo on oil and plan to keep the engine in top condition for a long time.
Carry used oil to dealer for proper disposal.
Some nuts like me also wipe the bottom side of the engine bay down while lying around under the car...ah yes, chock the rear wheel after using the ramps...and remember to remove everything from the underside (and the chock ) when finished. Then get off the ramps and enjoy !
Len
bit
I haven't done 12 across Montana but Hwy 2 and 200/87 were good a couple years back. Across the Dakotas 12 should be more fun than boring old I-94.
If you don't mind where to in Wisconsin? I'm 2 miles from Hwy12. I'll wave as you go by....
--jay
bit
--jay
We got the Subaru Gold for my wife's 2002 Legacy, 7/100 with zero deductible.
Even though my Forester has cost me exactly nothing after 47k miles, like the man said it's the piece of mind.
Our previous car, a 626, cost us $2500 in repairs in the 6th and 7th year, despite being reliable before that. CR still rates it very highly, so what? You wanna see the bills we had to pay?
The warranty costs less than half that, and we can be secure in knowing that this car will last us until 2009.
I don't care how well any car scores in a survey, we're talking 2009 and no out-of-pocket repairs.
-juice
PS Watch, Murphy's Law will prevail, and it'll be the perfect car! Still, it adds resale value when we buy that Blitzen in 2008.
Nice write-up on the oil change. The only thing I do differently is that I begin with the oil filter first. I find that the pan takes a lot longer to drain so I like to get the filter out of the way to free up my oil catch pan.
For those who don't use ramps, jacking up your vehicle on the side opposite of the drain plug (in the case of our Subies, it's usually the driver's side) will speed up the oil draining.
Ken
bit
The other cool thing about the warrenty, from what I have heard, is that you can buy it at any time before the current warranty expires. So theoretically, I think I either have 50k to 60K miles till I can decide to buy it.
I was also able to drain and change my oil just by sliding under. Loved the oil filter orientation - can we send the engineers an award for putting it vertically to minimize oil spillage? Can't believe others don't do this whenever they have space.
Another tip is to avoid overtightening the filter so it makes it easy to remove when you take it off later. I experimented with one of my cars to see how loose it could go. I think most recommend that you turn it 3/4 turn after the rubber seal starts to contact the engine. I was at 1/4 turn after several successive oil changes getting less and less tight on the install. No leaks. Now I use about a 1/3 revolution and I can spin the filter off with one hand. Been doing this for years. Fighting a stuck filter can really ruin what is dare I say a pleasurable experience.
I also remove the oil filler cap atop the engine before draining and always drain a hot engine. This produces max oil flow out the drain and max turbulence to remove any grundge that's been accumulating.
Any partial quarts left over go underhood in the space next to the battery so I can add a bit on a long road trip if needed.
IdahoDoug
Cheers!
Paul
Sounds like a sweet drive you guys have planned. I pulled out a map as my wife and I frequently drive from here to Michigan via the twin cities. We stopped in Minneapolis last Wednesday on our way back from the latest trip and the mosquitos were unbelieveable there, BTW. Pack some DEET containing spray if you're going to be outdoors and you sound like the type.
bit
Does this extra oil puts me into the O... whatever group
Little story, I have a 1977 Firebird with over 120K on it, changed the oil at least every 3k. Took the engine apart to change the cam (why not it was there and begging to get out), the lifters and rods were sparkling clean, which proves frequent oil change makes a difference.
The Forester has a bottom plastic cover that you also have to take off, but I ended up cutting a hole for easy access. I had a web site with instructions but homepage.com went out of business and took my web site with it. Your OBS should be even easier.
For parts, try e-mailing parts@libertysubaru.com, those were the best prices I could find.
-juice
Now we're set until 2009 and can plan ahead without $2k in surprise repair bills.
Another benefit from the Subaru Gold - you get roadside assistance. You get it with the standard warranty for 3 years, but we'll get the full 7 years of it. In our case, that'll save us $280 just in AAA memberships, so we already made about a 1/4 or our money back. :-)
Add the better resale, and the cost isn't all that significant for the reduced risk.
-juice
Ken
-juice
-juice
Actually, it's something we should all do regardless.
-juice