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Comments
-Water
When I drove home this afternoon the rocking was gone. Would the ECU be reset when the engine was changed? WOuld it take this long (1800 miles) for the ECu to re learn what ever it learns? I also put a container of STP fuel injector cleaner in it yesterday, maybe that fixed the problem?
The ECU should adjust pretty quickly to any major change. The battery would have been disconnected during a major swap, so it would be learning from scratch. Within a tank or two, it should be pretty caught up.
What would fuel system cleaner do? It could improve the spray pattern of a clogged injector, or clean deposits on the valve stem (which interfere with the injector spray). It could certainly improve idle and driveability, but the link to the oil consumption would be a stretch.
Steve
Is it me or is the outback very suseptable to different types of roads . Some times i have a very slight shimmy in my steering wheel depending on the type of black top I'm driving on. Other times the wheel is smooth no shimmy . has anybody experienced this with there cars .
Thanks Mike k
You are correct. I pulled the hose off of each end and examined the fittings. The intake manifold side is simply a nipple. The actual PCV is screwed into the block (crankcase) and was rather oily.
In retrospect, this seems to be the arrangement I remember from my older vehicles. Previous Ford engines had the PCV valve inserted into a rubber grommet (in the oil filler cap on the passenger side valve cover, IIRC???), with the suction hose connected to a spacer below the back of the carb.
So I gather that some Subi engines reversed this arrangement?
Steve
P.S. Thanks for confirming the location on the EJ25 II.
DaveM
Jon
This morning I checked the oil before I left for work. The car is parked in the same spot I always park in, I believe it is level. Now the oil was way above the notch on the dipstick.<sigh> Guess I will just have to watch and see what happens
Kim
I am a big fan of flat engines and all the aircooled vw, porsche and bmw motorcycles I have had used oil and shook a little during idle. I do not know if it is the layout of the cylinders that cause the oil consumption but they all did.
All the engines used less oil as the mileage went up. My R1100 (flat 2) didn't slow oil consumption until it reached 12,000 miles. All the motors never stopped oil consumption.
MY 03 wrx has 7.5K on it and I have added a total of 1qt between oil changes so far.
Now my problem...randomly crooked steering wheel. U turns leave the steering pointed towards the direction of last turn. Less sharp turns leave it crooked to a lesser degree. Max left crooked leaves top of left steering wheel spoke just below turn signal stalk, max right leaves right spoke just below wiper stalk.
Anyone else have this?
Don
Patti
P. S. - nice of you to join us at Edmunds! Welcome!
Ya, but not when it feels like a washing machine with off-balance load in spin cycle ;-)
The feeling kinda takes me back to my bone-shaker bus riding days in Singapore.
-Dave
He told me the owner of the dealership would be contacting me, but to date, I have not heard from him.
Thanks to all for your feedback. I'd like to hear from more of you.
New pair in front or back is doable if the newer tyres would be within 1/4" circumference amongst each other, otherwise you'll have to remember which is which down the road. Replacing all 4 is the optimum and the dealer is going the optimum route.
-Dave
Patti
I have read all the previous posts and I think it is great that Subaru has someone like you doing this thankless go-between job.
Don
One of the lights behind my HVAC controls - specifically, on the right-hand side behind the knob that controls where airflow is directed - has burnt out. The dealership tells me that replacement is not covered under my Subaru Gold extended warranty (!). Parts + labor to repair = $104. A little surprising to happen to a 3 1/2 -year old car but not out of the realm of possibility.
Has anyone DIYed this before?
Thanks,
Ed
It would take me maybe an hour to do it, is my guess. I installed the stereo in about 2 hours, but with that experience I'm sure I could do it in far less time now.
I guess bulbs are a "wear and tear" item, fair enough I guess. They could do that out of good will, though, especially for a Gold customer.
If you're considering upgrading the head unit, do them both now.
-juice
For the OBS, they quoted me 45 min. of labor too. It ended up taking them nearly an hour and a half, but they still only charged me 45 min. for labor.
-Dennis
"Equipment make: Subaru
Equipment model: 2.5L
Oil use interval: 3,875
Oil type & Grade: Castrol GTX 10W30
Make-up oil added: 0
Miles on unit: 70,848
Air filter: K&N
Oil filter: OEM (Purolator)
Mine [universal averages]
Aluminum 3 [3]
Chromium 0 [1]
Iron 4 [8]
Copper [2] [4]
Lead 4 [3]
Tin 0 [1]
Molybdenum 41 [45]
Nickel 0 [0]
Maganese 1 [1]
Silver 0 [0]
Titanium 0 [0]
Potassium 0 [0]
Boron 15 [41]
Silicon 11 [9]
Sodium 4 [10]
Calcium 2562 [2108]
Magnesium 5 [226]
Phosphorous 794 [738]
Zinc 900 [878]
Barium 0 [0]
Properties
SUS Viscosity @ 210F: 60.3 (Should be 59-65)
Flashpoint: 365F (>360)
Fuel %: .5 (<2.0)
Antifreeze: 0 (0)
Water: 0 (<.1)
Insolubules: .4 (<.6)
Dennis: Everything looks very good in the initial sample from this engine. All wear read well below average, which is a good indication of normal wearing parts and careful operation. The universal averages show normal wear after about 3,500 miles on the oil. Insolubules (oil oxidation due to heat, use and blowby) were low at 0.4%, showing good oil filtration. No fuel dilution or anti-freeze was found. Silicon was not excessive at 11 ppm, so we think your air filtration is still getting the job done. At 70,848 total miles, this engine appears to be doing well."
-Dennis
"Very nice! It seems that no matter what oil Subaru owner's choose, you can't go wrong, as these engines are engineered so well that wear is almost a non issue. No wonder I see so many high mileage Subes up here (a friend had one go to 400,000km before someone smashed into him, and a lady I work with is approaching 300,000km on hers)"
-juice
-Dave
If the tires are like new, you could probably even just get one new one. But do measure.
-juice
thanks I'll keep watch on the OBS.
As for the OB a new engine mount can't help now..., well, you know the story ;-)
-Dave
-juice
-Colin
Now as to just compensation: the dealership fixed their mistake, offered a $100 credit and is offering to replace all four tires (the later two admittedly only after you raised a stink). I think that's pretty fair. And since they did perform the specified work, asking for your money back actually seems a little unfair to the dealer. Sure it would be nice if he refunded your money as a show of goodwill but I wouldn't demand it. Besides, $100 plus four new tires (@ almost $100 each) is the equivalent of approx $500. I think I'd take the offer and just thank the powers above for watching out for you that day.
-Frank P.
IdahoDoug
Kim
What a piece of cake that was - in fact I was done and reluctant to close the hood since I'd planned on an hour or so. So, I sucked the power steering fluid out of the reservoir and put fresh A/T fluid in. Only changes about 50% of the fluid, but refreshes the additive package. That took another 5 minutes, so I cleaned up the mountain bike with the extra time.
What a joy to work on considering what a nightmare most modern cars are.
IdahoDoug
Most of the ways I've seen it done aren't any more complicated than having the hood open with one person watching the engine (from the side, of course) while another person puts the car in gear with their foot on the brake, emergency brake engaged, etc. Then simply watch the engine to see if it twists axially one way or the other when the gas is lightly applied in forward then reverse. If you're not careful that method can get you injured/maimed/dead - you get the idea.
Other ways to do it involve everything from a simple physical inspection to actually trying to apply pressure to the engine with a jack to see if it will separate the mount.
The dealer shouldn't charge more than 0.5 hr labor to diagnose mounts - he'll probably use the first method I mentioned as its the quickest.
But that way they're taking the risk, not you.
HTH
Larry
-Frank P.
Anyone try this http://www.geocities.com/hobiegary/hesitation.htm for their Subaru hesitation problem
thanks,
Craig
Steve
-Dennis
Steve
Steve
-juice
-juice
Are sure this is no longer an issue. I have a 2001 Outback with 67k miles on it. And I'm starting to notice the problem. When did Subaru corrected their grounding?
Thanks,
Ray
George
Anybody know how expensive they are to replace?
Craig
Greg
-juice
Craig
So far, there doesn't seem to be fix either. Some folks have claimed using stiffer bushings from Whiteline fixed the problem.
Ken