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However... the price of no longer worrying is definitely something. Enjoy your new ride!
(Note to self: Make copy of above post for replay later...)
I keep hearing mixed. Some say just use Regular but Subaru 'recommends' Super.
Thanks!
Don't do it. I have a lengthy post about it somewhere here on Edmunds...
It got several mpg less than I am getting now on my Forester XT...another engine requiring Super.
Bob
Years back I had a Camry V6, and could score about 2 mpg higher on premium than regular during the summer months. In the cold I could usually get away with regular, but when warm it 'demanded' better gas. I could feel the sag while only rarely hearing the ping - probably only if it exceeded what the max retard could protect against.
The 10% increase in mileage more than offset the cost, and it's better for the engine.
I just picked up the car today. Amazing driving experience...this is my third Outback (1996 & 2001) and I truly appreciate all they have done with these new models.
Where can I put up some random questions for the crew? Is this the best place? I don't want to hound everyone too much.
My first question... I love the radio and transferred my XM to now play in the car. The sales guy told me that the FM/Radio mode will ALSO show the station information along with song info. I can't seem to get it to work. Any ideas if the 2008 radios show FM station info?
Most items that cause vibration and shuddering would be present any time when turning. Try some slow turns in a parking lot and see if it:
- Is worse when the wheel is turned more
- Hops
- Makes any noise - grinding, clicking, roaring
- Does it behave any differently when accelerating or braking while turning?
One thing to consider is that the factory unit is a Class II (1.25" receiver), whereas you can get a Class III (2" receiver) in the aftermarket, usually at the same cost for parts. I find the 2" more robust and versatile.
Again, if anything like the Forester, aftermarket units for the Outback will not extend further back than the bumper shell itself and sit just below it, which works out to be the same level as the exhaust.
But if you insist on the 1.25" that is fine. It'll be adequate for a bike rack or so, but not any real towing.
When I got home, I hooked her up to my Autoenginuity interface and to my laptop, and it showed P0303 (misfire, cyl 3) along with confirmation from the snapshot data that the little rumble was probably the event - 90'F coolant, 1300 rpm, no load, zero mph, etc. There was also a second code of P0304 (misfire, cyl 4).
I began pulling spark plug wires for a resistance check, and while the boots and coil connections for cyl 1 & 2 were bright shiny, cyl 4 was tarnished, and cyl 3 on both the boot and the coil pack connection were black & charred. Bingo, I think even a half blind guy could figure this one out!
A little emery cloth cleanup worked temporary wonders to get me thru. I cleared the codes and she ran fine today. New plugs, wires & coil pack are waiting at the parts counter for pickup tomorrow. Hopefully there is nothing else hiding in there behind what appears to be an obvious fault and fix.
The auto repair I tended to yesterday - on my "birthday" no less - was seemingly straight forward, but turned out to be far less than cooperative. :mad:
So what ruined your birthday? Just turned 29, eh? Happy BD!
It didn't ruin my birthday; I don't put much stock in them anyway, so no harm, no foul.
Anyway, I was planning to replace a rear suspension component that is slightly bent (in preparation for an alignment tomorrow). This part is something that is not readily available, and must be ordered from "Ford," so it is pretty spendy new ($150). Being the frugal and practical person I am, I decided that such a part should be easily obtainable through a salvage yard. So, I picked one up for $25 on Tuesday with this grand plan of swapping it out in about a half hour's time. Hah.... hahahahahahhahaha!
With their engineering genius fully intact, the folks who designed the suspension on this car decided that a single bolt, about 6-7" long, that runs through the rear component I needed to replace, then through two tunneled holes in the wheel spindle, and terminates on the far side of the front-side counterpart to my component, was the best way to approach that challenge.
It is all well and good, of course, unless a component actually needs replacing! While there was no visible corrosion, the clearance through those "tunnels" in the spindle are so small that the bolt had soundly fused itself to them.
I pulled the nut off the front side and first tried to pound out the bolt from that end. Nope. I then shot the whole bolt with some liquid wrench and let it sit for a while. I came back and tried the same tactic as above, with the same results. So, I tried turning the bolt from the other end to break the connection. Nope. I tried getting more leverage by using a "breaker bar." Well, I couldn't find any pipe that would fit over the 13/16" wrench I was using, so I went to the shed and pulled out a metal fence post driver (you know those big, heavy, seriously-overkill-for-this-application drivers?). I put that on the wrench, which gave me enough leverage that I could feel the wrench flexing inside it, and nothing. I then placed the whole of my body weight on it and, while literally balancing on the thing, tapped the bolt with a 2# sledge. Nothing. I moved up to pounding with the sledge.... nothing.
Do you see where this is going? Yes, that's right... no where! :sick:
So, I decided that the arm wasn't really bent that badly and the shop will just have to make it work. I put everything back together, bled the brakes just to feel like I did something useful, and called it a night.
Oh, and I replaced the front brake rotors, calipers, pads, tie rod ends, and re-replaced a ball joint (that I "just" replaced two years ago!) on the front end over the weekend... all of which went perfectly well, so I guess I was due.
Old cars - it's a love or hate relationship!
Happy belated b-day.
I had new tires put on the car yesterday, and it is at the shop for its alignment today, so I hope I get good news at some point this afternoon.... !
The alignment on Friday was successful. They were able to bring the toe-in into spec even with the bent part, but the camber is a little out - probably not significant.
You'll have to keep the car in perspective here, but the after-vs-before of this alignment can only be described as "dreamy." Between the replacement tires and the alignment... ah, what an improvement! :shades:
I just received a recall notice for Subaru to reprogram the emissions control module.
I'm wondering if you guys are aware of it and if there are any negative repercussions, such as mileage, performance? Or if there are any positive repercussions?
Do you know why they are doing this? It doesn't say much in the letter.
Thx
I received that letter as well, but have not called the dealership to set up an appointment yet.
My letter says:
"... This software update is intended to improve vehicle emissions when the vehicle is operated in cold weather and the engine is turned off and restarted within short periods of time such as in several minute intervals."
In other words, starting and stopping the engine many times before it has warmed up in cold winter weather used to repeatedly dump a rich mixture into the converter, which hurt emissions and shortened the converter life. The update cures that problem by leaning the mixture somewhat on successive starts.
There is no reason to expect the update will do anything more than Subaru says it will do.
When I get to my car I go to press the "unlock" button on the key less entry. It doesn't work. I press the "lock" it doesn't work. No response from vehicle at all with either audio or visual signals. Think "hmm this is weird, it could just be a bad battery or something on the key less entry." No biggie, life goes on.
So I get into the car, turn the car on, go to turn the radio on, and the radio has no power, cannot turn it on or off, cannot raise the volume and there is no lights on where the radio is. Same with the climate control panel. These are the only two symptoms I noticed before turning off the car and returning it to the dealer to figure out what is wrong with it.
Anyone ever heard of anything similar? They said "We will call you tomorrow to let you know how much it is going to cost when we figure out what it wrong with it." At less than 45,000 miles and this problem arising after they re-programmed the computer, I would think they would cover it.
Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
Did you drive it anywhere, or just turn it on, notice these things, and then go back inside?
Now as to how/why this happened... that is the real mystery.
Thx, Atherton.
I was hoping I might get better gas mileage...as this 2010 get about 4mpg less than my 2009 did. I've asked the dealer, but they say nothing a usual when I bring it in.
I brought my 2008 Outback H6 LL Bean in for a routing oil change the other day. (38k miles) I also had them check on a rattle I have at just about 40 mph...when slightly accelerating on a hill. My third Subaru... so I know the heat shield sound.
The tech told me that it was not this as the H6's do not have as many heat shield issues (is this true?)
They replaced my steering wheel pump under warranty and said that was the issue as it was loose and leaking. Free ..but did not fix it.
Should I go back and have them check the heat shields again? ONLY happens when already cruising along (not from a stop) around 35-40 mph.. have let off the gas a little and then lightly go to pick up speed. Rather loud ...rattle.
Don't you love trying to type out the explanation?!
I did notice another odd engine thing last night. The H6 is generally smooth when shifting...this time, I lightly pressed on the gas it the car seemed to vibrate for a second before finding its gear. I figure this is just the normal Subaru auto transmission feeling? My other 2001 had 'quirky' shifts too.
I always drive in Sport setting in my SI-Drive.
From dead start, a deep bass like rattle and thumping begins under the hood, under the engine, about midway between driver and passenger side. As I accelerate past 15mph or so, it goes away.
THought it was suspension, maybe driveshaft issues but my wrenches did lower ball joints, then did both cv 1/2 shafts (boots were torn and shot, grease all over).
When I turn left or right from a dead stop same problem, sometimes less sometimes worse, just like a straight line start.
If I put the tranny into 4WD (shifter button) there is no noise at all!!!!! WHich leads me away from suspension related issues?
Any thoughts? Drive train? Not suspension? Internal tranny splines where half shafts lock into?
Thanks in advance.
Larue
The part that makes me uncertain about this diagnosis is that it is in the area of the front differential. When I have experienced this in the past, it was in the drive shaft bushing for the rear differential.
It is not uncommon for outer c/v bearings to sound off in turns when defective. You did mention torn boots.
Bottom line, I concur. Start with Cv shafts. I also recommend sparaying the boots with a silicone spary every oil change to make them last longer. Cheap and sure beats changing them.