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Here is the official status of the NVG 5600 6 speed manual. New Venture Gear determined and remedied a production problem. In doing so, they were unable to produce the transmission in sufficient quantity for regular production orders. There was a small window of orders taken in January and February. Dodge will fill ONLY these orders already in the system; otherwise, the 6-shifter will be released for the 2000 model year.
The Allison 6 speed automatic, which was also slated for this spring in Dodge/Cummins trucks is also delayed until the 2000 model year because Allison is backlogged.
cabover,
The tire swap is fairly easy. The Ford Super Duty trucks use a tire size LT265/75R16E, that will increase the rating about 800 punds per axle (remember, the cabover camper will put some of its weight onto the front suspension as well. You will need a speedometer gear adjustment for this; on 96-98 Dodges, that is a simple tooth swap that competent dealers can do blindfolded. Ford gets that tire from Firestone in the Steeltex R4S (rib) and Steeltex AT (all terrain) models.
As I mentioned, the 3500 rear spring pack should be a direct swap, as the 2500HD and 3500 are basically the same frame (the 1500 is very different). The mounting points should be the same. Your axles would be the same as the 3500, so no swap of driveline components should be needed.
Thanks for the information on both the proposed 6-speed transmissions. I spoke to Gerald Basham, DaimlerChrysler marketing, who thought that these transmissions would be available in the spring. From what you have said, it appears that the 2000 year model will have to be my target.
One more question: I know that Ford makes a kit to "lower" the 4wd super duty trucks ... a simple U-bolt and block change that lowers the overall height by some 3" or so. Have you ever heard of anything like that for Ram 4wd trucks? I want the 4wd option, but don't need the ground clearance. I won't be crawling over the rocks with this truck ... only looking for the increased traction in slippery conditions. The added height only creates boarding problems for those who will primarily travel the paved road. I may have to seek aftermarket modifications in the end. Thanks for your knowledgeable responses.
You had asked that before and I totally forgot. My bad. My Ram 3500 4x4 Club measures as follows:
- road to bed floor at the tailgate: 37.5 inches
- bed floor to top of bed rail: 19 inches
- bed rail to top of cab at front of bed: 21 inches
- center of gravity location for a slide-in: between 25 and 58 inches forward of the rear edge of the bed
Hope that helps everybody
The Allison 1000 is actually a 5 speed automatic, not a 6. If you would like to read about the transmission, click here.
I do have the 7 year power train warranty, and was wondering if that this warranty will cover the leak in the exaust. It's a 94 ram with only 15000miles. I live in canada. Does the warranty coverage differ from the states or is it the same basic coverage for both countries.
If the truck doesn't have the factory plow-prep package, you *may* be in for a treat. You will be scrutinized by the dealer and DaimlerChrysler as to whether the stresses caused by plowing directly led to this problem (as opposed to merely driving through the snow).
It sounds like your exhaust system got high-centered on a drift during one of your "stuck" situations, and you probably tried to aggressively to get out. You might want to have an independent exhaust shop (Midas, etc.) give you an estimate to see what damage you have actually done.
Dodge Ford
Road to bed floor at tailgate: 37.5 38.0
Bed floor to top of bed rail: 19.0 19.5
Bed rail to top of cab: 21.0 26.0
These measurements are what I would call pretty damn close, with the exception of the bedrail to cab measurement. I really don't see why all the Ford guys are complaining about lowering blocks, etc, when the Dodge folk aren't. What do you Dodge guys know that we don't?
That was exaclty what happened, I got the truck stuck up over a huge pile of snow, and it took me 1/2 hr of shoveling, and sanding, and even puting chains under the tires to get out. It happened quite a few times that night, and each time I really had to rock it to get it out. Thanks for the advice on going to a private muffler shop first, but I read your post a little to late. I did however call the dealer, and asked him if the exaust was covered, and he said only if the leak was coming out of the manifold joint. I think that is where it's coiming from, so I made the appointment to let them check it out. I don't have the plow prep package. At the time the dealer said it was uneccesary to have, since I have the heavy duty service package. The only differnce is that the plow prep pkg. has the air adjustable shocks. Anyway, if the leak turns out to be where the two exaust pipes converge into one before the catylic converter, what costs could I be looking at. It's not a craked pipe, it's probably a seal between the joints.
Luckily (for me), my experience is limited to exhaust replacement from the cat out - had to repalce the system on an F150 when I got rear-ended. Car submarined the bed, and crunched the tailpipe, but since Ford used a fully welded system, the only clamp was at the cat(!), so the whole thing had to be replaced.
In your case, the pipe you referred to could be pretty expensive (not the part, but the labor).
Just got back from the dealer. Guess what the problem was? It wasn't the joints in the exaust, or seals, it's the exaust manifold. It turns out that it's warped. Luckily for me , I have the 7/year powertain warranty, which does cover manifold warpage. The dealer will take it off and send itto the machine shop, to smooth it out again. The labour only takes about an hour. Will this smoothing hurt my performance any afterwards. Or will it have any affect on the eay the truck works currently?
I discussed the new transmissions with the local dealer, who just came back from a "dealer conference." He said that the Allison 5-speed auto for 2000 year model was just a rumor, and that Daimler-Chrysler had no information on it. I hope that they do add this transmission to the options list, but if it is coming, it is sure quiet.
As to the 6-speed manual ... the dealer said that the 4th, 5th and 6th ratios are almost identical with the 5-speed (.01 difference in 6th). The "extra gear" falls below the existing 4th gear, and would be for slow climbing or extreme loads. Do you ( or anyone out there) know the ratios on the current 5-speed? I can't seem to find them. Thanks
Cummins 3/4 ton with automatic for a '99 Ram Quad
Cab 4x4 Cummins 3/4 ton with manual transmission.
We had problems with the automatic transmission
and the last problem that we had was that the front end had major problems that could not be fixed by the service which was pulling to one side or the other in the front end when braking. The regional representative finally gave us a $3000 rebate toward a new truck. I asked around and was told by others (even the dealership repair tech) that the '96 front end seemed to have this problem and the factory knew it was a problem. The tech bulletin to "fix" the problem was 36 pages long. After several "fixes" the regional representative was contacted and came through with this solution.
The dealer was told to not let anyone drive/sell the truck until a rep from the factory had come out and taken it to the shop. If it could not be repaired then it would be loaded on a truck and taken back to the factory. I was glad that my wife opted for the manual transmission also as the auto seemed to have a lot of problems with the power of the Cummins and the V10. Anyone else having these kinds of problems?
Thanks
Wow, that MPG is not too encouraging. I have a 99 Ram 1500 5.2L and at just under 800 miles, I'm getting about 11 MPG. I was hoping it would get better after breaking in, but if your's is two years old and still barely getting 14 MPG, that doesn't give me much hope.
Thanks for the information and the Daimler site. I think that I will opt now to wait for the 6-speed NV 5600. Those ratios will work for me pulling a 9,000# rig.
I have a 96 3500 Club Cab Cummins 4x4, and my font end has been very good. I have found 2 keys to preventing pulling:
1) Ditch the factory Goodyear tires. They stink on Rams. Michelin, BFG, Cooper, and Bridgestone all work much better. Keep the tires balanced and at the proper psi (I have found 72 psi up front with LT215/85R16E tires is optimum on my truck).
2) Find a shop that handles semis to do your alignments. My dealer won't even attempt to align my truck - they send it to a shop that specializes in medium and heavy duty trucks, and there's also a shop like that near my home and office that does big rigs as well.
I've been able to hit potholes that would kill a car at speed with no damage or ill-effects to the tires, wheels, suspension, or alignment. The only time I have really needed front-end work was after something I did - jumped a curb at 60mph to avoid an accident on I-80 - somebody pulled out from the shoulder in front of a bus, the bus bailed left, and three cars had to come to a screaming halt - I came around a curve, saw no room to brake, and just jumped into the median between the local and express lanes. That required an alignment, new front shocks, and a new track bar - all done under warranty. Been straight ever since.
By the way, I just drove 260 interstate miles in the mountains of West Virginia. Got a whopping 14.3 mpg. YeeHaa.
when comparing prices with ford and chevy, factor in the $500 or so for the heavy duty package, because w/o it, the transmission seems to have more problems. Also, you have to pay extra for 4 wheel ABS, which is included on Silverado and Ford 's XLT and Lariats.
Matt D
http://members.xoom.com/99overNvoice/Index.htm
Also during my test drive I noticed the steering to have alot play in it was not crisp and I heard a buzzing noise when I put the truck in reverse. Are these two things normal.
One more thing, I'm a Chevy man and this would be my first Dodge. My current Chevy is a stick with a creeper (granny) gear. The Dodge boys told me Dodge trucks don't have a creeper (granny) gear. Is that true?
New Venture found a production problem with the six speed stick. It was fixed, but it put them WAY behind schedule. The few orders that did make it in the system in January and early February will be built as 99s, but otherwise, the 6 speed manual is now on hold until the 2000 model year trucks.
As if this wasn't enough, I now have a loud clanking noise whenever I shift into reverse. Woe is me! With less than 900 miles on my beautiful new truck, I'm beginning to miss my old F150! I'm going to try just spraying the doors with silicone, but that transmission noise is a job for the dealer.
Lady Blue...
Sorry to hear about your problems. Hope that you can get all resolved.
Hang in there, everything will work out all right. Remember, one day you will laugh about this and you and your Ram will spend many happy hours together.
Thanks for the encouragement, guys. I haven't heard any strange noises from the trans again, but I'm keeping my ears open. I'm going to work on the doors this weekend and see if I can reduce some of the squeaking. I'll let you all know what happens.
They are expensive, $80.00cdn prices, where the avg muffler costs $25-35 cdn. Does anyone have any experiences with this muffler, any info would be appreciated.
the 5.9 is a dog!
I'm so sorry to hear that! I didn't get around to working on the doors this weekend, but - guess what? Quiet as a mouse today! That doesn't mean the noises won't return, but at least my Monday morning commute was peaceful. Hope they can get you back on the road right away. I'm not ready to write off Dodge just yet. Hang in there.
Thank the humidity today after all of last night's rain. Keeps the gaskets warm and moist.
About three weeks ago I was inquiring about 2500 vs 3500 payloads. You responded that the weak link in the 2500 was the tires and that the axle was the same as the one on the 3500. Well last Friday I went out and bought a 2500 QC with a cummins. The truck I bought has the camper option on it (rear sway bar and overload springs in the rear) and the tires appear to be rated at 3042 Lbs each.
I have two questions I would like to ask all:
Does this mean that if it were up to the tires alone and I could somehow distribute the weight evenly I could haul 6084 Lbs?
If the tires are still the weak link and I eliminate the tire restriction by buying heavier rated tires what is my payload capacity with the overloads and new tires?
Thanks for all of your valuable input.
Do you have bug guards on your Ram? Do you have all three pieces? What type do you have and like?
If not, is your paint getting chipped up from rocks and debris?
I sure don't want to cover up any of that good looking front end if I don't have to!!!
Right now, your rear GAWR is 6084 pounds, the tire capability times 2. If you added tires that exceeded that, your next weak link is the springs, which on a Ram 2500 are rated at 6500 pounds. Your rear axle is 7500 pounds.
Yes, your tires can theoretically support a total of 6084 pounds, but remember that includes any weight in the truck that the rear springs would support. This includes the weight of the truck itself, your fuel (diesel weighs approximately 8 pounds per gallon), passengers, and luggage you might have in the cab. All these reduce your payload, thus reducing your camper weight capacity.
By comparison, my tires are the strongest part of my 3500. The rear GAWR, axle, and springs are all 7500 pounds, but my tires are 2470 lbs each = 9880.
In your owner's manual folder should be a computer printed camper sheet, with your VIN and what your truck's camper capabilities are. If your slide-in exceeds the information generated for your truck, then you probably do need better springs and tires than what was provided for you.
I have a bug guard on my Ram. It's a one-piece that covers the center of the hood and fits behind the chrome where the Ram emblem is. You can see it these pictures of my truck <<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/ldembo6220/romance/index.htm">http://members.aol.com/ldembo6220/romance/index.htm>
I can't remember off the top of my head which brand it is, but I'll check tomorrow and let you know.
Does the bug guard make the mirrors shake. I heard the smaller side pieces (which fit on the fender above the headlights, which, by the way, I notice you don't have) make the mirrors vibrate. I bought the bug deflector made by AutoVentshade, and returned it without even taking it out of the shrinkwrap. Didn't want to stick the tape on my paint, and take the risk of my mirror shaking to pieces. Then I would be stuck.