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Comments
I do agree the OP story is hard to follow. I'm more interested in knowing when the last oil change was (mileage and time)? Who changed the ECM and why? Why do they believe the engine is dead? Still not sure about the noise. could use more explanation on this.
and
answering question
this is the THIRD computer install (1st - original, there was one replacement @ about 6months - manufacturer ordered) then this one
the engine WAS started AFTER the latest install, but the mechanic advised my dad - the engine stopped and would not restart
I had all dealer maintenance done = up to about 48 or 60 km - by dealer
I had oil changes done by them, however,recently I did not have one.
There were no indications - smoke, noise (until the end), oil leaks, car ran awesome!!!! - that there was a problem
Computer did not indicate any high, low, hot, cold issues related to oil.
There was 2/5 L of oil left in the vehicle BUT they said the oil was not touching the dip-stick
They told me that the lack of oil on dip-stick, would NOT make the computer send me a msg.
They assume the computer was turned off by owner, as they feel that the mechanic would not have neglected to fire it up (ie - program it)
My dad, who has been a HUGH blessing, in talking to them, believes that there is 'more to the story' and thinks something is fishy.
Underlying msg - I started to get my car checked about the 'noises' and to make arrangements to do brakes, tires and maintenance when this happened. Fall work ... pre-winter.
Your father has very good instincts. One delayed oil change will not cause this type of failure. Nor will it cause loss of oil. Engine oil is much better nowadays and can easily go 7500 miles between changes.
I say give them hell!!!...& good Luck!
CANADIAN MOTOR VEHICLE ARBITRATION PLAN
camvap.ca
After I followed up with my dealers service deparment again the service manager contacted Nissan again about the timing chain rattling in the top end of the housing.
Apparently Nissan is willing to to fix the problem as a courtesy repair for a minimal out of pocket cost of $500. Basically they are sticking with their opinion that I am lying about changing my oil since I don't have receipts.
Since I work with a couple of motorheads that have forgotten more about motors that the entire service department knows, I ordered a tensioner on line and they are willing to help me swap it out.
If this solves the chain noise I will trade this PITA in on something more relaible. I got away from US makers because of quality, but after paying 20% more for a "foreign" make with lots of issues, I may go back.
Thanks... Gary
Why did you pay 20% more for the Quest over the domestics? After test driving my 2004 Quest, I quickly eliminated the Freestar and Grand Caravan. My Quest was cheaper then the Freestar and about the same as the GC.
Can you send me contact information on your local dealer thst told you about a failures on Nissan 3.5 timing chain tensioners? My email is hobbes1962@yahoo.com
Thanks,
Calvin
My 05 Quest SE (for the second time now) has drained the battery because the heated seats were on and the van was off.
This is my diagnosis anyway.
The front passenger heated seat was on and the door was left ajar; not open, but not fully closed. An hour later the the van wouldn't turn over
We experienced this problem once before but the key was in the ignition; the van was not turned on.
We've never experienced any type of starting or charging problem before.
I called the “free” road side assistance. They said they couldn't come out because I was at 37400mi and that the roadside assistance expired; or they would could out with a fee of $70 (don't think that included the actual work)
So I bought a Black & Decker – Simple Start ($40)...charged it up and plugged it into the lighter; 10 minutes later I started it up.
I told my wife to make sure the doors are always closed when the van is off.
I would suggest everyone rev their engine slowly building, while parked, up to about 4,000 rpm, and see if you hear the noise. If you do, take it in. I didn't hear the noise until a certain RPM and only at that exact rpm. So, a quick rev up and back down didn't completly reveal the problem.
The dealer said that if it wasn't fixed, over time it would wear through some of the chain guides causing further damage.
My dealer (service manager) said they are seeing it in 'everything' with the 3.5, including Infiniti.
Hum....
:sick:
Thanks a bunch!
Calvin
Thanks
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/Knowledgebase.html?catid=231&sort=d&page=1&pp=10&- keyid=132
Now for the good news....
I took my Quest on a trip to Florida (Disney), from PA. The chain noise grew worse. I contacted a local dealer and they repaired it UNDER Warranty. I told them the whole story even about my local dealers warranty claim denial because I did not have oil change receipts. The mechanic rolled his eyes and said if he pulled off the timing cover and there was no sign of neglect (sludge, etc.) that Nissan had no grounds to deny the claim. He took it apart and found that the retaining hook at the end of the chain guide had broken off and the nylon (or duron or whatever the material is) slid on the metal support. This caused the chain tensioner to completely extend but still not press the guide enough to adequately tension the chain.
There is more, but suffice to to say that my quest runs like a QUIET top. If I lived in Orlando I would definitely give Bill Ray Nissan a look for my next minivan since I see at least one more in my future. There is no way I would buy another one locally. I have no faith in the dealership
Thanks to all for your advice and for "listening".
Calvin
2004 Quest SL
105 kms
To all the Quest owners
Does your Quest shift like this?
http://www.carspace.com/videos/play!id=.5bc80d99
Mine is 4 speed auto. This problem occurs after the tranmission warmed-up after 15 mintues drive. No flare when the tranny is cold. There is nothing wrong with the techometer. The engine rawrs at the spike. Dealer(s) denied this "issue", and said it is functioning within spec & "You have an excellent tranny."... lol
Suggestion or advice is welcome.
I have noticed that the vehicle shifts smoother when I don't watch the tach...old habits of driving manual cause me to slightly lift the throttle which causes it to shift rougher than it should
I have an 05 Nissan Quest and cant seem to get my Interior lights (Not the DASH lights) to come on i have checked the fuses under the hood and in the Auto. Any one got any clue to where I can look next. My wife needs it especially when she when darkness comes.. they all just WENT OUT???
Thanx
frankiew
Thanx for taking a look when you get home also..
I haven't been here is a while. My tranny "slipped" with the tach needle going up, but was also noisy during some slips giving out a "grinding or whining" sound under acceleration. This was not all the time, usually when turning to the right and up a slight incline. Dealer's mechanic went for a ride with me one morning and it took 5 miles of turns to get it to do the problem, he immediately said "It's slipping, we need to replace it"
Recently the "vibration' at 2100 RPM has started and I did find TSB 04096. This appears to be the exhaust problem reported by many. Never felt this before, van has 29000; 2006 S.
Chris
Thanx in advance
You mean each individual light or the master switch to the left of the steering that turns them on all at once? BTW...did you check the obvious to make sure the master switch is not turned off...and is in the door position?
Thanx
Frankie
I'm trying to pull the rear bumper skin on my 04 Quest to replace a backup sensor.
I think I got all the fasteners off. 4 black expansion pins underneath, 2 bolts under the taillight housings plus the little twist locks . 2 bolts up near the mud guard.
The problem I'm having is the 3 or 4 clips on each side at the seam where the skin meets the quarter panel. I dont want to pull too hard and break it. Is there some secret to getting this thing off without damaging it. I wouls really appreciate any advice you could provide!
Thanks,
Mark
I dont remember exactly, but I think ther clips you are talking about are just expansion type with plastic screws that strip & shread when you try to back out the screw. I will take a look when I get home (about an hour) & update if needed.
I am pretty sure I just replaced them all after I destroyed most of them trying to remove them.
Calvin
Thanks for the reply.
Actually I was able to get those 4 plasitc fasteners off. The problem I am having is getting the bumper skin pulled off the back. There seams to be some kind of snap type fasteners on on each side, at the seam between the bumper skin and the quarter panel. I'm guessing that the whole thing slides off the back once all these are undone but it seems like something is going to break if I pull too hard. There is no way to get a tool in there.
Thanks again!
Mark
REAR BUMPER
1. Remove rear combination lamp RH and LH assemblies.
2. Disconnect sonar sensor harness connector, if equipped.
3. Remove top and bottom clips from rear bumper fascia
4. Remove rear bumper side brackets from rear bumper fascia. Twist bracket 1/4 turn to remove.
5. Remove rear bumper fascia screws.
6. Remove rear bumper fascia.
7. Remove rear bumper side brackets.
8. Remove bumper reinforcement. Separate energy absorber and rear bumper reinforcement.
9. Remove step pad from rear bumper fascia.
10. Disconnect harness from sonar sensors, if equipped.
11. Remove sonar sensors and retainers from rear bumper fascia, if equipped. Separate sensors and retainers.
12. Remove sonar sensor harness from rear bumper fascia.
13. Remove drafter duct from rear bumper area.
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.
Here's a photo that hopefully will be big enough to see too.
Steve, visiting host
Is anyone familiar with this noise and have some intelegent ideas as to what it might be and what I should have repaired to get rid of the noise?
Out of curiosity, I checked the passenger-side visor. The plastic retainer was not broken, but had 2 holes in the exact area where the other retainers have failed.
There have been only a few reports of broken visors on this forum so I am wondering
if this is a rare problem and am I just unlucky to have 3 failures and a potential failure or have others had failures which were not reported here.
My 2004 Quest will be out of warranty in July, so I am concerned about future failures--the visors cost about $80.
Also, failure is a serious hazard, because when the retainer fails the visor has a habit of dropping and hanging by the electrical connection and blocking vision. The last time this happened was on the freeway at 70 mph.
I had a buzzing/clattering noise when my timing chain tensioner failed. Other posts have described a similar failure as a whine. I think if it is the main chain, it is louder as the chaincontacts the housing. The secondary chains are shorter andrun faster so they may whine when a tensioner fails. There is a TSB out on the problem....You are not the first. If you are out of warranty you ar looking at $2000 or mor if it uis a tensioner failure.
Good luck!
CaLviN
Be aware that if you have a 2004 Quest, Nissan revised the powertrain warranty to 100k miles due to a 2004 customer service/satisfaction iniative.
Mark
2004 Quest SE
Recently (since we have owned it actually) it has been the little things. Our local dealer lubed and adjusted our power door several (like 10 times) over the four years we have owned this van, and now they say that the problem is a grease build up, and "we" should be using a silicone based lube! The just did it as a "courtesy" for us since it is not a warrany item (still under 60K & 48 months). My question is...Is the door designe to only work part of the time afte the car is a couple months old?
GRRRRRR!!!!!!! Thanks for the vent time.
Calvin
We've had one of ours stick...periodically. I've had them look at it (when it was under warranty) and all they did was spray it. They said they adjusted it...but I doubt they did (it performed exactly the same after).
Our rear lift gate also periodically would reverse itself (going up or down)...this started a month or so out of warranty.
Also just out of warranty we started to get the "odd" light show up (VDC off...BRAKE light)...but a re-start of the vehicle would correct it.
We're still dealing with an exhaust rattle (for over a year now)...I've had it to 5 different places...last one cut off an exhaust shield (said it wasn't needed)...and I was tired dealing with it so I said "If it works, cut it off"...still there.
Rattle is an understatement...at 2K and 3K rpm it sounds like an empty coffee can with bolts in it...violently shaking.
Not too impressed with the durability of the Nissan...it's only 3 years old...we want another 5 years out of it but I doubt it'll make it that far...or it will with all of the "features" VDC...power doors etc. non-functional.
Never had the door stick shut, just intermittently stop/reverse when it is 80% closed. Several other smaller annoyances (radio reception is awful), but only the timing chain tensioner guide was potentially costly...about $3000.
We do get the occasional start up in 3rd/4th gear, but turning the motor off for a few seconds has always reset it. I have seen a TSB, but have little confidence that my local dealer will have a clue.
I look at my quest like a couple Caravan's I have owned. Great features and forward thinking design, but poor execution in too many areas. Ours is paid off in December. I hope to get at least 2+ more years out of it before I move on.
Regards,
CaLviN