Its hard to predict what some of us looney's will end up doing with our trucks. I never planned on towing anything other than a 4x8 utility trailer when I got my 97 Z71. But I got the trailering package because it wasn't that much more than having a good brand installed. Low and behold, a year after getting it my wife and I decided we wanted a 5th wheel. Its a portable kennel for our Irish setter when we go to weekend shooting matches in the summer (G). Wish I had got the standard 3.73 rearend. Got the 3.42 cause I was sure I would not tow anything heavy. Still on the interstate it slows at the worse to 52 on hills. I tow in third gear to keep the rpm's up. Seems to do better if I tow at 65 vs 60. I guess keeping the rpm up offsets the greater wind resistance. I got the class 4 hitch so I could have adjustment of the hitch height to keep the trailer level as I had several trailers I might pull. I also have a small (5000 pound) tractor I might have to pull but rarely. ......... Rich
I have learned about getting trailer packages. My present truck an 89 Chevy 4wd Silverado was pulling my boat last year. Never had a problem with it. Last year I came across a 40 mph headwind in the summer when it was about 95 outside. So this meant the AC on. The transmission started to blow out oil out of the side of it because it overheated. I will order the trailer package everytime I order a truck now not just because the hitch is there, but mostly because the extra coolers are there.
#664 woj1 #665 cookie1 #670 26andrew1 #682 page3: Doesn’t the leading edge of the rear door have the release and latching mechanism that attaches to the top and bottom of the cab opening? This has to be far stronger than the “two door hardtops” arrangement of the sedan world. If ALL the extended cabs migrate to the extra doors, you still have an option. You could weld or bolt the extra doors in the closed position just like the folks who do stock car racing. A roll cage might send the wrong message, though.
Ladyblue Amen to seatbelts.
I think the “junk” that will collect in the back of my extended cab will be a much larger danger in the form of secondary collisions to my hat.
akjbmw Most coupes (like my Cobra) have given up on a hatch or have found other ways to strenghten body. Problem w/PU is that the cab is an isolated unit that is attached to the frame. Take any of these PU 4wheelin and watch how the body panels migrate as the frame is stressed, it isn't pretty. My 95 K2500 does some serious twisting when I have one of the four wheels off the ground. I can't see a cab with the suicide doors being as strong as one without. Does it really matter? Depends upon what you do with the vehicle.
You know...we have seen trucks change alot in the past few years,they made the x-cab,power seats,doors,locks,windows,cd player,heated mirrors and seats,the list goes on.And the reason is to get car owners out of their cars and into trucks.Most of these trucks will never see dirt roads.But what does that do for the person who uses it for heavy work or offroad driving? Well you gotta buy lots of aftermarket stuff to beef it up.When you make a truck for everybody you've got to make it ride nice,easy to get in and out of, fuel efficient,then you put a box on the back and 4-wheel drive.I still think trucks are great,but when will they stop and think...what are trucks really suppost to be used for? Ford I think has done that,offering a heavy and a light truck.To bad for us Chevy lovers.Don't get me wrong,I still want my 2500 I have ordered.I just want trucks to stay trucks.
Has anyone with a 4x4 x cab put a trailering harness on their new truck. How do I do it? Do I have to use those 6 wires hanging back there or can I disconnect some connection and snap a harness in the middle? Anybody know????
There is a trailer wiring option available for $25 (UY2). It includes 3 connecters as I understand it. One under the dash for a brake controller, one under the bed for attaching a 5th wheel connecter and one at the rear bumper for attaching a trailer connecter. This eliminates the need for any soldering, wire cutting etc. I asked a question many moons ago if anyone has used this option. Has anybody yet? Does the operators manual have a diagram showing what pin of the connector is for what? I guess the dealer should be able to provide this information if the manual does not. ........ Rich
sorry about the caps. new to internet talk. 6 quarts of oil, really? i can't believe it, and it still wasn't filled? wow. about to hit 1500 miles soon. i too noticed a slight pull to the right. checked my tire pressure on both sides too. no idea. seems to run straight sometimes and pull at others. will wait. bad alignments get worse after a while once the tires wear in that direction. will then turn in for alignment warrenty.
Hooked up the AIRAID air filter today. What a difference !! You can hear and feel the 300hp engine come to life Big-Time! Took about 1/2 hour to install. Very straight forward directons,perfect fit . Highly recommended for the 4.8 5.3 & 6.0 Check'em out at www.airaid.com
Wiring (RichinKs) Hey Rich I ordered that same wirning harenss, but I had the RV dealer put it in for me, for my 5th wheel Camper, the owners book does not talk about how to wire it in, but the dealer, pasted on to me that it was not that hard. Sorry I could not be more help
It is my understanding that there is an adapter that plugs into the 6 or 7 pin connector at the rear bumper to get to the old basic 4 prong trailer light. My dealer did not have the adapter but said he could get it or I could get it at Auto Zone? I need to check but have been busy!
Spoke to the Mechanic and the dealer and got the same story that there should a be an ever so slight pull to the right! They said that is a safety feature built in to avoid head on collisions when drivers fall asleep? He asked me to go to a flat road he knows about and try it and see if it is very slight, if it was a bit too much he said they could check it! He said that older model trucks almost always had to be realigned after shipment but the newer trucks he said have been much better!
I'm just about to make the final commitment on the Silverado. Plan on getting the 4.8 w/a 5 speed. Will do infrequent hauling. I'm debating the 3.73 vs. the 4.10 axle. The 3.73 is rated @4,500 lbs (ext. cab, 4x4, 5 speed, z85), whereas the 4.10 is rated at 5,500 lbs. I want to make sure that I have enough truck to meet my towing needs, but don't want to lose too much gas efficiency. Any advice on the tradeoffs between the axle and mpg?
Dave40: you've convinced me that the Chevy is the way to go. Thanks.
Markbuck: Flag guys don't want to talk reason, so it looks like I may go south for this one. I've been quoted a substantially better deal. Thank anyway.
My Silverado pickup tracks true and all vehicles I ever owned tracked true on level freeway roads. Almost all roads are designed to shed water to the side and do have a slight pitch. Humped single lane roads will always cause a natural pull to the right but I think the mechanic and dealer were giving out bull.
NUWO: I would go for the 4.10 with the 4.8 engine. Your going to have a blast with that 4.8 255hp rocket. I heard that new 5-speed is Awesome! Add the AIRAID High Flow filter + 15hp and you'll be THE MAN! www.airaid.com
I thought the same thing. But after putting this baby on it was well worth it! The stock filter and air box is way to restrictive. More air more power. It really works!
aaron8, Yup. Took 6 quarts, still did not come up to the full line. I check fluids all the time, especially when new. The book says you should be within the operating range, but not above or below it, or engine damage could occur. Doesn't say what kind. I noticed the engine slopes towards the back slightly, so I'm taking their warning about not going above the full line literally, because otherwise I am tempted to add the 1/4 to 1/2 qt it would take to bring the oil up that last 3/16" to the full line.
jxyoung, I got the trailer electrical adapter, G.M. round to standard flat....at the U-haul center.
My Silverado also seems to have an ever so slight, trace of a pull to the right. What makes me believe the story about this being built-in is that quite a few owners seem to be reporting it. In my case, the steering wheel points straight when I turn to the left to overcome the pull. It is fractional. But is this possibly by design? If it is, I would characterize it as yet another safety-cratic intrusion from the people who brought us the 98 mph engine speed limiter and daytime running lamps combined with headlamps you're not in control of.
tire pull: is it safe and is it possible to get the aligment straightened at a tire shop? the shop i go to will charge about 30 bucks so i may do it if it won't hurt the truck. any suggestions or opinions out there?
tire pul again: if it is by design, how could they of thought of something like that? did they think of the tire wear and irritable feeling of wheels not being aligned?
You can buy the 7 pin spade to: 4 wire flat and the 6 wire round at Walmart. That way you can match almost any trailer.
I went 4.10 due to our high altitude and occasional trailer in the 3500 pound range while having 1200 lb payload. Probably little fuel economy effect around town. Down 1 to 2 mpg on highway at most. Sorry they wouldn't deal with you. I was willing to pay a little extra to stay in town.
aaron8, The alignment shops will have factory specs for camber, caster, and toe for each wheel. To get the pull out, might have to deviate from factory spec a bit.
My '90 S-10 Blazer I thought pulled to the right even with air pressure matched on all four tires. Then I put on (2) new tires, and suddenly it was arrow straight. Not sure why...maybe someone will put on a tire stagger clinic for us.
On my Silverado, the amount is so slight, it could be argued that my old car which I though pointed true, actually had a slight pull to the left....Not!
markbuck....Excuse me, I am ignorant....Will I use those six wires hanging under there or will I unplug a connection and place this harness in the middle and snap it back together. ( My trailers have flat four connections) I am still a little confused!
I plan to use those 6 wires hanging under there and mount a 7 wire spade trailer connector to either the bumper or the receiver hitch. I tend to pull a variety of trailers with all different connections. By starting with the 7 spade 'master' I can always step down - a whole bunch of other people must do that as these 'premade' step down adapters are available at Walmart, Checker,..... If you only need the four wire flat, tape off the extra two wires (probably 12+ hot-battery charge, and trailer brake). Can't tell you the color code that chev uses on the harness, but it has to be available or labeled somewhere. Four wire flats are almost always white=ground, brown=running lights, and yellow and green = left and right. Just gotta get under there with one of those little test lights and get a buddy to flip the switches. If you look under the dash, there should be a connector for the trailer brakes and you can rule out those wires. Any trailer place should be able to do this for you quite easily.
Hey, don't question the wisdom of steering that pulls to the right, daytime running lamps, headlamps you can't control, and 98 mph electronic speed governors. Don't bother asking for automatic climate control or a thermometer, or leather. We've decided you pay for the speed governors and daytime running lamps instead, in the hope these items can become federally mandated for all vehicles, in the interest of saving you like we are saving social security. Thank you for your participation.
markbuck....Thanks for the info.....I just looked under the truck again and four of the wires are taped together...dark green:right stop turn signal,brown: taillamps, yellow: left stop turn signal, and white: ground. Then the light blue: Center High mounted stoplamp, and light green: backup lamps are taped together separate from the other four. Now do you think I use all six??? I'm still pretty slow on this topic I do have to admit!
nuwo I am still waiting for my 4.8 5 spd, but conventional wisdom would tell you that with less torque than my old 5.7 (which has 3.73), that 4.10 would be of benefit. I doubt that the mileage gets hurt significantly due to the overdrive in the trans.
Take the first four wires and solder or crimp them to a four wire flat (auto side-female) pigtail. Use Scotch 33+ electrical tape to insulate/cover. Put some of that clear spiral wrap over the whole mess and zip tie or stuff it up behind the bumper somewhere. Carry a bunch of zip-ties in your glove box.......
It should be easy to find out if a pull to the right is built in. Simply ask to see it in writing from GM. How else would a dealer or mechanic know? And if they can't produce it in writing, ask the dealer to put it in writing and sign it. Bet you get neither.
I like daytime running lights because I think it makes your truck safer. It's more practical than running around with your headlights on. The automatic feature of the headlights coming on in low lighting conditions is cool too. It would help if there were some kind of red light indicator letting you know when they are on other than the dash lights coming on. Sometimes it is hard to tell in twilight conditions.
Minnesota requires headlights on during rain. I don't know if daytime running lights qualify or whether a rainy day will be low light enough to bring the headlights on. I guess sometimes you gotta think and act despite all the automatic features.
Why would you want to SPLICE in a 4 wire adapter when you can get the plug and just plug it into the round recepticle on the bumper? The wires that are not used in the 4 wire adaptor just dead end in the round connector, Chevy has the wiring system cut down to 6 wiring splices in the whole truck and put the connector back there that eliminates the splicing? Maybe some are not clear on this but as I understand it there is a pigtail that plugs into the round connector on the bumper and terminates into the 4 prong or other connector if that is what you need. If I am wrong on this let me know?
I personally like all the auto lights and stuff.
700 miles and holding pretty steady at a hair over 15mpg. Some highway but doing the break-in shuffle so should improve some! 5.3L, 3.73, Z71, extended cab etc. Love this truck! Getting ready to check and get sprayed in bed and nerf bars.
Markbuck, I would have loved to buy it in Flag, but when I can get 1500 LS for $200 over invoice instead of $1,200 over, it's worth the drive down the hill.
At the same time, ask them to put it in writing that there is an electronic speed governor that cuts out engine at 98 mph. Would they? I honestly don't know.
I have heard from one dealer and a head mechanic at a different GM center that the slight pull to the right is built into the trucks in case of driver falling asleep. in fact, the dealer told me he had read it in some of his GM material. I believe them. the pull is so negligible on a trully flat highway, tire wear is insiginificant. on a "trully" flat highway, the pull is just enough to keep a straight running vehicle on its side of the road.
I sent Chevy an e-mail addressing the pulling question. I will share their reposnse when they get back to me.
jim
I got the round to flat trailer wire converter at a local trailer place for 13.00 and it works just fine. Chevy dealer wanted 40.00 and had to order it!
Problem is that our trucks didn't come with a connector - no trailer tow package (not available on the manual tranny). They do come with 6 wires hanging near the rear bumper. So, we were discussing what to do with those wires - terminate all of them in a 7 wire spade plug like you have, or just use some of them for a boat trailer 4 wire flat.......
had the bundle of wires under the rear chassis, neatly wrapped, but no plug. I went to Wal-Mart in the Outer Banks of NC where an elderly gentleman store employee gave me a thorough lecture on "plug and hitch" types.
Simple rounded end rectangle for those of us who U-haul occasionally all the way to round multiwhire multi-function for those who 5th wheel. We wound up geting the "U-haul" option installed at the dealer for $40.00. Like most such, attachment is via a manual "splice block" that makes the connections for you. The connector end is not physically fixed in place - about 4" of slack, but does have and end cap, and loops nicely through the chain attachment points on the tow hitch.
I've had my new '99 1500 LS 4x4 for about 4 weeks now and I am very happy with it. No rattles, squeaks,or such. Seems very solid.
I do have one complaint. I ordered the truck with the buckets cloth seats ( it has a center console ). I've found that the arm rest on the driver side seat (same for the passenger too) is to small and to close to my body. Now I'm not a big person (5'10'' 165lbs) so this suprises me. When I test drove the vehicle I didn't notice this. But now that I drive it regularly it bugs me.
Anyone else notice this? I can't imagine there is anything I can do about it other than replace the seats with aftermarket seats.
Just returned from a trip from upstate NY to Colorado Springs with my 99 Silverado, LS, Z71, ex. cab, 5.3 auto. Was a very comfortable ride down getting 17 mpg against a pretty stiff southwest wind till we hit 76 south when the wind started coming out of the northwest,they closed 76 to high vehicles because of the wind,there was a 1/2 of a double wide trailer off in the medium with it's wheels up in the air on 25. while in Colorado Springs we had a Rhino liner sprayed in the bed and the rear wheel wells, and a Pace Edwards roll top installed. I was going to get a tonneau cover for it but after seeing some of the covers on the trucks on 76 that day I decided maybe I'd look for something else. Coming home we were pulling a U-Haul and made 15 mpg still a nice ride and no problems. 3786 miles all together and really pleased with the truck.
I noticed the same. Too small, too close. I was wondering whether I had to wait until Winter ended and get out of my heavy coat or lose weight. Since you said you weigh 165 lbs. I think I'll quit worrying about the latter and go pop me some popcorn.
O.K., I'm a bit confused. I am comparing options versus invoice pricing and I can't figure out the differences in the 2500 Silverado that would justify the additional $$$. My comparison is showing that the 2wd extended cab short bed gets an upgrade to the 5.3 L V8. I can add a 5.3 to the 1500LS for about $1200; what other goodies do you get in the light duty 2500LS to add an additional $1400 to the invoice price? Thanks oh great wise one!
well with the 3/4 ton you get the heavier chassis and a bigger engine (6.0) the engine comes with cast iron heads rather than aluminum for more durability and a heavier steering system. I think you get the heavier steering on the 1500 if its a 4 wheel drive (rack and pinion vs the heavier reciprocating ball type..) I ordered a 2500 ex cab longbed 4X4 and the price between the simular 1500 wa not that much about 400 bucks.. Not anexpert here but just telling ya what i found out during my investigation into THE TRUCK...
You should also get upgraded axles, stiffer springs, et cetera. I don't know this for a fact, but those are some of the standard upgrades from a half-ton to a 3/4-ton.
On the armrest deal, if you have electric seats the up and down function of the seat moves just the seat and not the seat-back. You may be able to get them in the right positiion if you move the seat bottom? I am 6' 190 and find them a little narrow and uncomfortable, but will have to live with this I guess?
I have a question: I seem to remember reading somewhere that the tailgate needed tools to be removed? I took mine off today with nothing? But a guy with a GMC showed me a little plate that is over the hinge on the right side of his tailgate that makes someone use a tool to remove the tailgate? What do you guys have? I have the Chevy sportside but it doesn't seem like that should make a difference?
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Comments
#665 cookie1
#670 26andrew1
#682 page3:
Doesn’t the leading edge of the rear door have the release and latching mechanism that attaches to the top and bottom of the cab opening? This has to be far stronger than the “two door hardtops” arrangement of the sedan world.
If ALL the extended cabs migrate to the extra doors, you still have an option. You could weld or bolt the extra doors in the closed position just like the folks who do stock car racing. A roll cage might send the wrong message, though.
Ladyblue Amen to seatbelts.
I think the “junk” that will collect in the back of my extended cab will be a much larger danger in the form of secondary collisions to my hat.
#676 kcram
Right on.
Most coupes (like my Cobra) have given up on a hatch or have found other ways to strenghten body. Problem w/PU is that the cab is an isolated unit that is attached to the frame. Take any of these PU 4wheelin and watch how the body panels migrate as the frame is stressed, it isn't pretty. My 95 K2500 does some serious twisting when I have one of the four wheels off the ground. I can't see a cab with the suicide doors being as strong as one without. Does it really matter? Depends upon what you do with the vehicle.
Very straight forward
directons,perfect fit .
Highly recommended for the 4.8 5.3 & 6.0
Check'em out at www.airaid.com
Spoke to the Mechanic and the dealer and got the same story that there should a be an ever so slight pull to the right! They said that is a safety feature built in to avoid head on collisions when drivers fall asleep? He asked me to go to a flat road he knows about and try it and see if it is very slight, if it was a bit too much he said they could check it! He said that older model trucks almost always had to be realigned after shipment but the newer trucks he said have been much better!
Dave40: you've convinced me that the Chevy is the way to go. Thanks.
Markbuck: Flag guys don't want to talk reason, so it looks like I may go south for this one. I've been quoted a substantially better deal. Thank anyway.
Your going to have a blast with that 4.8 255hp rocket.
I heard that new 5-speed is Awesome! Add the AIRAID High Flow filter + 15hp and you'll be THE MAN!
www.airaid.com
But after putting this baby on it was well worth it!
The stock filter and air box is way to restrictive.
More air more power.
It really works!
Yup. Took 6 quarts, still did not come up to the full line. I check fluids all the time, especially when new. The book says you should be within the operating range, but not above or below it, or engine damage could occur. Doesn't say what kind. I noticed the engine slopes towards the back slightly, so I'm taking their warning about not going above the full line literally, because otherwise I am tempted to add the 1/4 to 1/2 qt it would take to bring the oil up that last 3/16" to the full line.
I got the trailer electrical adapter, G.M. round to standard flat....at the U-haul center.
My Silverado also seems to have an ever so slight, trace of a pull to the right. What makes me believe the story about this being built-in is that quite a few owners seem to be reporting it. In my case, the steering wheel points straight when I turn to the left to overcome the pull. It is fractional. But is this possibly by design? If it is, I would characterize it as yet another safety-cratic intrusion from the people who brought us the 98 mph engine speed limiter and daytime running lamps combined with headlamps you're not in control of.
I went 4.10 due to our high altitude and occasional trailer in the 3500 pound range while having 1200 lb payload. Probably little fuel economy effect around town. Down 1 to 2 mpg on highway at most. Sorry they wouldn't deal with you. I was willing to pay a little extra to stay in town.
The alignment shops will have factory specs for camber, caster, and toe for each wheel. To get the pull out, might have to deviate from factory spec a bit.
My '90 S-10 Blazer I thought pulled to the right even with air pressure matched on all four tires. Then I put on (2) new tires, and suddenly it was arrow straight. Not sure why...maybe someone will put on a tire stagger clinic for us.
On my Silverado, the amount is so slight, it could be argued that my old car which I though pointed true, actually had a slight pull to the left....Not!
If you only need the four wire flat, tape off the extra two wires (probably 12+ hot-battery charge, and trailer brake). Can't tell you the color code that chev uses on the harness, but it has to be available or labeled somewhere.
Four wire flats are almost always white=ground, brown=running lights, and yellow and green = left and right. Just gotta get under there with one of those little test lights and get a buddy to flip the switches. If you look under the dash, there should be a connector for the trailer brakes and you can rule out those wires. Any trailer place should be able to do this for you quite easily.
Now why doesn't Chevy let us order the trailer package with a manual??????????
I like daytime running lights because I think it makes your truck safer. It's more practical than running around with your headlights on. The automatic feature of the headlights coming on in low lighting conditions is cool too. It would help if there were some kind of red light indicator letting you know when they are on other than the dash lights coming on. Sometimes it is hard to tell in twilight conditions.
Minnesota requires headlights on during rain. I don't know if daytime running lights qualify or whether a rainy day will be low light enough to bring the headlights on. I guess sometimes you gotta think and act despite all the automatic features.
eliminates the splicing? Maybe some are not clear on this but as I understand it there is a pigtail that plugs into the round connector on the bumper and terminates into the 4 prong or other connector if that is what you need. If I am wrong on this let me know?
I personally like all the auto lights and stuff.
700 miles and holding pretty steady at a hair over 15mpg. Some highway but doing the break-in shuffle so should improve some! 5.3L, 3.73, Z71, extended cab etc. Love this truck! Getting ready to check and get sprayed in bed and nerf bars.
jim
I got the round to flat trailer wire converter at a local trailer place for 13.00 and it works just fine. Chevy dealer wanted 40.00 and had to order it!
had the bundle of wires under the rear chassis, neatly wrapped, but no plug. I went to Wal-Mart in the Outer Banks of NC where an elderly gentleman store employee gave me a thorough lecture on "plug and hitch" types.
Simple rounded end rectangle for those of us who U-haul occasionally all the way to round multiwhire multi-function for those who 5th wheel.
We wound up geting the "U-haul" option installed at the dealer for $40.00. Like most such, attachment is via a manual "splice block" that makes the connections for you. The connector end is not physically fixed in place - about 4" of slack, but does have and end cap, and loops nicely through the chain attachment points on the tow hitch.
I've had my new '99 1500 LS 4x4 for about 4 weeks now and I am very happy with it. No rattles, squeaks,or such. Seems very solid.
I do have one complaint. I ordered the truck with the buckets cloth seats ( it has a center console ). I've found that the arm rest on the driver side seat (same for the passenger too) is to small and to close to my body. Now I'm not a big person (5'10'' 165lbs) so this suprises me. When I test drove the vehicle I didn't notice this. But now that I drive it regularly it bugs me.
Anyone else notice this? I can't imagine there is anything I can do about it other than replace the seats with aftermarket seats.
Thoughts?
MT
I noticed the same. Too small, too close. I was wondering whether I had to wait until Winter ended and get out of my heavy coat or lose weight. Since you said you weigh 165 lbs. I think I'll quit worrying about the latter and go pop me some popcorn.
I am comparing options versus invoice pricing and I can't figure out the differences in the 2500 Silverado that would justify the additional $$$.
My comparison is showing that the 2wd extended cab short bed gets an upgrade to the 5.3 L V8. I can add a 5.3 to the 1500LS for about $1200; what other goodies do you get in the light duty 2500LS to add an additional $1400 to the invoice price?
Thanks oh great wise one!
thanks all...
the up and down function of the seat moves just the seat and not the seat-back. You may be able to get them in the right positiion if you move the
seat bottom? I am 6' 190 and find them a little narrow and uncomfortable, but will have to live with this I guess?
I have a question: I seem to remember reading somewhere that the tailgate needed tools to be removed? I took mine off today with nothing? But a guy with a GMC showed me a little plate that is over the hinge on the right side of his tailgate that makes someone use a tool to remove the tailgate? What do you guys have? I have the Chevy sportside but it doesn't seem like that should make a difference?