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Comments
#665 cookie1
#670 26andrew1
#682 page3:
Doesn’t the leading edge of the rear door have the release and latching mechanism that attaches to the top and bottom of the cab opening? This has to be far stronger than the “two door hardtops” arrangement of the sedan world.
If ALL the extended cabs migrate to the extra doors, you still have an option. You could weld or bolt the extra doors in the closed position just like the folks who do stock car racing. A roll cage might send the wrong message, though.
Ladyblue Amen to seatbelts.
I think the “junk” that will collect in the back of my extended cab will be a much larger danger in the form of secondary collisions to my hat.
#676 kcram
Right on.
Most coupes (like my Cobra) have given up on a hatch or have found other ways to strenghten body. Problem w/PU is that the cab is an isolated unit that is attached to the frame. Take any of these PU 4wheelin and watch how the body panels migrate as the frame is stressed, it isn't pretty. My 95 K2500 does some serious twisting when I have one of the four wheels off the ground. I can't see a cab with the suicide doors being as strong as one without. Does it really matter? Depends upon what you do with the vehicle.
Very straight forward
directons,perfect fit .
Highly recommended for the 4.8 5.3 & 6.0
Check'em out at www.airaid.com
Spoke to the Mechanic and the dealer and got the same story that there should a be an ever so slight pull to the right! They said that is a safety feature built in to avoid head on collisions when drivers fall asleep? He asked me to go to a flat road he knows about and try it and see if it is very slight, if it was a bit too much he said they could check it! He said that older model trucks almost always had to be realigned after shipment but the newer trucks he said have been much better!
Dave40: you've convinced me that the Chevy is the way to go. Thanks.
Markbuck: Flag guys don't want to talk reason, so it looks like I may go south for this one. I've been quoted a substantially better deal. Thank anyway.
Your going to have a blast with that 4.8 255hp rocket.
I heard that new 5-speed is Awesome! Add the AIRAID High Flow filter + 15hp and you'll be THE MAN!
www.airaid.com
But after putting this baby on it was well worth it!
The stock filter and air box is way to restrictive.
More air more power.
It really works!
Yup. Took 6 quarts, still did not come up to the full line. I check fluids all the time, especially when new. The book says you should be within the operating range, but not above or below it, or engine damage could occur. Doesn't say what kind. I noticed the engine slopes towards the back slightly, so I'm taking their warning about not going above the full line literally, because otherwise I am tempted to add the 1/4 to 1/2 qt it would take to bring the oil up that last 3/16" to the full line.
I got the trailer electrical adapter, G.M. round to standard flat....at the U-haul center.
My Silverado also seems to have an ever so slight, trace of a pull to the right. What makes me believe the story about this being built-in is that quite a few owners seem to be reporting it. In my case, the steering wheel points straight when I turn to the left to overcome the pull. It is fractional. But is this possibly by design? If it is, I would characterize it as yet another safety-cratic intrusion from the people who brought us the 98 mph engine speed limiter and daytime running lamps combined with headlamps you're not in control of.
I went 4.10 due to our high altitude and occasional trailer in the 3500 pound range while having 1200 lb payload. Probably little fuel economy effect around town. Down 1 to 2 mpg on highway at most. Sorry they wouldn't deal with you. I was willing to pay a little extra to stay in town.
The alignment shops will have factory specs for camber, caster, and toe for each wheel. To get the pull out, might have to deviate from factory spec a bit.
My '90 S-10 Blazer I thought pulled to the right even with air pressure matched on all four tires. Then I put on (2) new tires, and suddenly it was arrow straight. Not sure why...maybe someone will put on a tire stagger clinic for us.
On my Silverado, the amount is so slight, it could be argued that my old car which I though pointed true, actually had a slight pull to the left....Not!
If you only need the four wire flat, tape off the extra two wires (probably 12+ hot-battery charge, and trailer brake). Can't tell you the color code that chev uses on the harness, but it has to be available or labeled somewhere.
Four wire flats are almost always white=ground, brown=running lights, and yellow and green = left and right. Just gotta get under there with one of those little test lights and get a buddy to flip the switches. If you look under the dash, there should be a connector for the trailer brakes and you can rule out those wires. Any trailer place should be able to do this for you quite easily.
Now why doesn't Chevy let us order the trailer package with a manual??????????
I like daytime running lights because I think it makes your truck safer. It's more practical than running around with your headlights on. The automatic feature of the headlights coming on in low lighting conditions is cool too. It would help if there were some kind of red light indicator letting you know when they are on other than the dash lights coming on. Sometimes it is hard to tell in twilight conditions.
Minnesota requires headlights on during rain. I don't know if daytime running lights qualify or whether a rainy day will be low light enough to bring the headlights on. I guess sometimes you gotta think and act despite all the automatic features.
eliminates the splicing? Maybe some are not clear on this but as I understand it there is a pigtail that plugs into the round connector on the bumper and terminates into the 4 prong or other connector if that is what you need. If I am wrong on this let me know?
I personally like all the auto lights and stuff.
700 miles and holding pretty steady at a hair over 15mpg. Some highway but doing the break-in shuffle so should improve some! 5.3L, 3.73, Z71, extended cab etc. Love this truck! Getting ready to check and get sprayed in bed and nerf bars.
jim
I got the round to flat trailer wire converter at a local trailer place for 13.00 and it works just fine. Chevy dealer wanted 40.00 and had to order it!
had the bundle of wires under the rear chassis, neatly wrapped, but no plug. I went to Wal-Mart in the Outer Banks of NC where an elderly gentleman store employee gave me a thorough lecture on "plug and hitch" types.
Simple rounded end rectangle for those of us who U-haul occasionally all the way to round multiwhire multi-function for those who 5th wheel.
We wound up geting the "U-haul" option installed at the dealer for $40.00. Like most such, attachment is via a manual "splice block" that makes the connections for you. The connector end is not physically fixed in place - about 4" of slack, but does have and end cap, and loops nicely through the chain attachment points on the tow hitch.
I've had my new '99 1500 LS 4x4 for about 4 weeks now and I am very happy with it. No rattles, squeaks,or such. Seems very solid.
I do have one complaint. I ordered the truck with the buckets cloth seats ( it has a center console ). I've found that the arm rest on the driver side seat (same for the passenger too) is to small and to close to my body. Now I'm not a big person (5'10'' 165lbs) so this suprises me. When I test drove the vehicle I didn't notice this. But now that I drive it regularly it bugs me.
Anyone else notice this? I can't imagine there is anything I can do about it other than replace the seats with aftermarket seats.
Thoughts?
MT
I noticed the same. Too small, too close. I was wondering whether I had to wait until Winter ended and get out of my heavy coat or lose weight. Since you said you weigh 165 lbs. I think I'll quit worrying about the latter and go pop me some popcorn.
I am comparing options versus invoice pricing and I can't figure out the differences in the 2500 Silverado that would justify the additional $$$.
My comparison is showing that the 2wd extended cab short bed gets an upgrade to the 5.3 L V8. I can add a 5.3 to the 1500LS for about $1200; what other goodies do you get in the light duty 2500LS to add an additional $1400 to the invoice price?
Thanks oh great wise one!
thanks all...
the up and down function of the seat moves just the seat and not the seat-back. You may be able to get them in the right positiion if you move the
seat bottom? I am 6' 190 and find them a little narrow and uncomfortable, but will have to live with this I guess?
I have a question: I seem to remember reading somewhere that the tailgate needed tools to be removed? I took mine off today with nothing? But a guy with a GMC showed me a little plate that is over the hinge on the right side of his tailgate that makes someone use a tool to remove the tailgate? What do you guys have? I have the Chevy sportside but it doesn't seem like that should make a difference?