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Comments
what i have a problem with is that someone would finish a deal, drop the new car off for some touch up, and only ask for a loaner AFTER dropping it off. didnt you know when you saw the chips that you would need a loaner? YOU are the one spending $30k...you should be thorough about it.
I have driven a 2004 Quest and was thoroughly impressed. I loved the power and the handling of this van. I do have a question about the middle row seats.
When I looked at the van, I noticed that the middle row seats have a somewhat smaller frame and padding that the usual middle row seats. I know that this is because the middle row seats in the Quest drop into the floor (somewhat). Have any of you noticed any problems with comfort or support for full-sized people sitting in these seats? There also didn't appear to be much room between the middle row seats to get to the back seats. I am sure that if anyone sits in the back row if I purchase a Quest, it will be a child. But has anyone had any issues with access to the back row seat?
I also noticed that my local dealer had a sticker with a $1,895 "market value adjustment" on the van. This is an insult to a shoppers intelligence. The closest Carmax dealer will now sell a new Quest S or SL at up to $200 below invoice. Sorry about that. Just had to vent. The closest Nissan Carmax dealer is about three hours away. I will gladly drive that distance to get a good deal on a Quest.
Your input in this matter is greatly appreciated. TIA
Check the Nissan Quest: Prices Paid & Buying Experience board too.
Steve, Host
I'm in sales (real estate), like you are (cars). And I experience everyday where people will buy something and overlook issues that are obvious to us, and SHOULD be apparent to them. Why? Because the kinds of products we both sell, the primary motivator is emotion. Emotion clouds judgement...just ask your wife! (smile)
It's incumbent upon us to help our customers see the things they ought to see, but don't. That's why were the pro's, and they're not. That's how we earn our money.
When I go the extra mile, whether I "have to" or not, I always win: in self-respect, in appreciation from my customers, in referral business, in increased income.
Most people in my business get that. Many people in you business don't. Does it mean we're better human beings, with better morals, etc. Not really. It may just come down to the fact that we're licensed and carefully scrutinized by our state governments, with lawyers involved in every transaction, and car salesman are not.
The REAL legal point here is what's known as "Fiduciary Responsibility". The obligation to actively disclose ALL relevant issues that you have knowledge of. You cannot just say "They shoulda seen it" and stay in business long term.
Will some people take advantage of you? Of course some will. It takes all kinds, to make a world. But most people appreciate being treated fairly, and will reciprocate when you do.
. Back = More middle legroom, less back legroom
. Forward = Less middle legroom, more back legroom
. Middle = a combination
There's two options for getting in/out of the back (short of climbing over from the hatch <g>):
. The traditional way = The middle seats have a latch which swing them up and forward.
. My kids way = There is enough room between the two captain chairs that it's easy to get to the back between them
P.S. My Quest had a few scratches and a ding; the dealer took care of fixing it all, offered a loaner, and took $200 off the price and gave us splash guards. In a competitive business, what's right and what's legal might conflict, but there is a reasonable assumption on the consumer's part to get a car that's NEW, and an implied responsibility for the dealer to provide that, within reason. There is nothing like positive word-of-mouth for a car dealer, since the worst is expected. In fact, the difference in the buying experience between Poughkeepsie Nissan and my local Toyota dealer played a large role in the car we ultimately bought!
I tried to decide between putting it on top or inside. I was afraid we'd scratch it getting it off.
Also dealing with a very small leak from sky window seal above the third row passenger seat.
You may need to reapply the lube periodically...but at least you now know how to eliminate one of the most annoying issues we've experienced with our vans.
You want to spray all 4 connectors on the door frames and all 4 on the doors themselves. A total of 16 points in all, for both of the doors.
You may also choose to spray the transporter arms that the doors slides on in the track, for good measure.
You will also notice something on the front edge of the door frames that has 7 little copper nipples on it and a matching device on the door itself. This is the contact switch. Do not spray it.
You may also want to spray the latches on the rear tailgate and also the seat latches that secure the folding seats in the second and third rows.
After you do this, you will notice an immediate and dramatic reduction in "rattles" and clatter from these places.
Just a 1-2 second shot on and around each connection point will do the trick. You can always go back later to any areas that need it again. So far, I haven't had to re-spray anything yet.
on the nissanusa site, the white has been on the "build your own" page since day 1.
but...if its there, more power to you! ;-)
I checked a dozen or so other dealer inventories in my area, and none had the nordic frost.
Very interesting...
Is it red (like the leather seat color) or is it black?
At home, I measured the clearance from the bottom of the mud guards to the ground- only 4 inches of clearance. My wife's Honda Accord has 8 inches. I am convinced they put on the wrong mud guards. Plus I can see they don't fit & conform to the precise shape of the fender area where they mount.
So, my question is, can someone pls post the clearance you have with your mud guards? Thanks.
Got a good deal at $26,092 for an SL with running boards, mud guards & mats. Price without these extras was $25,239.
Sam G
pics of the rouge interior at:
http://www.velocityjrnl.com/jrnl/2004/vmd9406ml.html
Actually, what I meant was the optional carpeted floor mat but not the built-in carpet.
AFAIK, there are 3 different optional carpeted floor mats for 3 different interior (Gary, Beige, Rogue).
For Rouge internior, is the color of the optional carpeted floor mat black or red (like the leather seat)?
Thanks.
So I'll be getting my now cheaper SE tomorrow.
I haven't been able to find any confirmation of the 1.9% financing via this website, Nissan's website or any press releases. Is this Nissan financing or some special deal from your dealership only? I was planning on replacing our family minivan this spring, but 1.9% financing could entice me to move up my plans.
ctl1
in market for a minivan - never drove one, or been in a minivan until today!
I drove the Odyssey (dealer was closest to my office..) first. Currently drive a Saab 9-5 wagon.
Has anyone here driven both the Quest and Odyssey? I found the driving position in the Odyssey to be strange - wasn't sure if it was an Odyssey trait, or do all minivans just feel like your driving - a van...
I certainly expect some difference, but I just could not get that comfortable in the Odyssey.
thx
Is the Nissan Quest for 2004 already out?
If so, when was it released?
I am concerned about some of these "problems" that I have been reading of the Quest, which I attribute to any newly remodelled car ( no matter what brand it is ) and was hoping that they will be straightened out in next year's model.
Does anyone know when the 2005 model will be released?
If you don't want the Quest, I suggest the 04 Sienna. Either way, both minivans are the segment leaders.
Can a Nissan roofrack be added, and who would add it? If it's the dealer, can I trust them to do it right? If it's a third-party shop, am I voiding the Quest's warranty?
Too bad the roofrack is not available as a factory option on the S level!
I'd like a rack because if nothing else, I'll put bikes up there and maybe, in the future, a kayak.
Looks like Toyota includes it at the LE level and offers it as part of a package at the CE level.
Thanks for your comments!
http://www.handaccessories.com/odyext02.html
also it is listed in the options brochure at the dealership and you can always call the parts department.
it exists. i have one on my LX.
Steve, Host
steve_HOST: two questions...First, would adding a Thule or Yakima or other 3rd-party roofrack void the vehicle warranty? And second, how do we find out how well the manufacturer's rack performs compared with that of a 3rd-party? Is there a webpage on roofrack reliability?
I'm not sure what reliability factor you are concerned with. Generally, the aftermarket racks are rated for heavier loads than the factory ones (i.e. 150 pounds instead of 100 pounds or similar).
The weight isn't so much an issue with me as ease of loading and stability. I tried some Yakima adapters on my Quest briefly that used the factory rack instead of Yak towers. The rack sagged with a 70 pound tandem canoe and just didn't feel bombproof, so I went with a full Yak system (I took that rig on a 32,000 mile road trip over ten months, and didn't want any rack failures).
The aftermarket racks can live in your garage when you don't need them, and the cross bars come in various sizes, so if you frequently carry two tandem canoes or 6 or 8 kayaks (or queen size beds <g>), you can get 78" bars.
I'm a bit particular about my racks since I had a cheap one fail at 50 mph 30 years ago (luckily my backup tie-downs kept stuff attached until I got to the shoulder).
But if you are just toting a Kiwi to the local lake once a month, then the factory rack or a couple of foam blocks could tide you over. Just tie the boats down front and rear and over the sides. That's a cheaper solution since the aftermarket racks are pricy.
Steve, Host
i'm not a mechanical person so you might want to help me understand how an aftermarket rail / or connection to the vehicle might permit more loading than the rails designed for the vehicle (probably not made by Honda anyway).
in the case of the ODY LX roof rack, the cross bars seemed like the weak link..but not the rails themselves. i could be wrong about that. don't know if aftermarket would have been cheaper.
if i desire to get good cross bars and optionally install them when i need them, i have the flexibility to do that...they'd attach to the rails i had my dealer install.
granted, my dealer thought i was strange to request just the rails installed on the ODY LX, but that's what i wanted; i don't think it's easy to remove the factory crossbars on the LX if you desire to do so.
while the instructions for installing the rails looked straight-forward (see the web-site), i wanted them installed by the dealer...with three kids i don't have much time to work on that stuff.
anyway, it's an option. it can be installed by a dealer, or by a mechanically inclined person with some time. on another vehicle...
I wonder if adding an aftermarket rack increases the risk of it blowing off when you load it with a cargo carrier, let alone a bike or two, or a canoe.
Any thoughts?
He said that changing the Odyssey's and Sienna's rubber timing belts after 60K miles would cost about $1000.
Is that really a factor? (I can't imagine that changing an unbroken belt would be that expensive.)