Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

tripler · March 2005

hi guys new to the site hope i do everything right.my problem is when driving the front end feels like it is in 4 wheel drive but the front wheel are not pulling any suggestion?thanks mike

brlcowgirl · March 2005

I have a 02 chevy 4x4 dually one ton. I moved it on Saturday to move the trailer and Wednesday we went to take it and get fuel, and no power steering or power brakes....anyone have any ideas. I can not find the fuses for them listed in the book, after many discussions we have decided there is not a fuse for the power steering or power brakes...any help would be appreicated...and yes the belt is moving and there is fluid in the power steering.

kfhookem · March 2005

My 2002 had a problem w/fuel injectors. Blew all the diesel out one time and had similar symtoms you describe on another occasion. That trip it seemed to not happen below 65 mphor so.

yellowlab20 · March 2005

I have a Chevy Silverado 2000' with 4.3 Liter. When I first start the engine in the morning, it hesitates for the first couple of tries. If I turn the ignition on and let the fuel pump run for a few seconds, it will start. Once it starts it idles just fine. When driving down the road, mainly under a load or accelerating, the engine starts cutting out. I have also noticed that around 1/4 of a tank, it starts cutting out really bad. Almost to the point where I can't accelarate at all (eg. stop signs & red lights).

sinning · March 2005

I have had problems with my transmission,and fuels systems on my Silverado. Has anyone experience the same with their 2500HD. it is only 3yrs old and 53000 miles on it.

I have 3/4 ton 02 Silverado 2500HD 4x4 crew cab short box.

sinning · March 2005

Maybe I should be more specific. I have fuel problems because the truck shuts off. When I try to start it up nothing happens. If I give it gas and let it sit a few seconds then it comes on. usually happens when I am idling.

the other problem is 11/2ago I had to replace the Transmission Control Module"unit"(TCM/TCU). the electronic display would say it was on drive but it would not run on drive. I had to move the lever back and forth to get it to go. once it was replaced it work fine.

has anyone experienced this?

Now I think the problem is re-appearing. The other day I was trying to back up. However the truck would not go in reverse. any suggestion please.

E

lwittorf · March 2005

Have you changed your fuel filter? As I understand these new pumps put out a lot of pressure and if the filter is plugged at all it can cause all kinds of problems. The dealer up here says a good idea to change filters at 15-17 k. I have and haven't had to replace a pump or had any stall problems. Just a thought.

eric14 · March 2005

I just purchased a reg cab 1500 4x4 with the 4.8 vortec 5spd. How much can this truck tow ? I was trying to find 0-60 or qtr mile times for this truck but everything i see is ext. cab and automatic. Are there any major problems with this truck that you know of ?

Thanks.

boomer1b · March 2005

According to my 00 GM tow brochure:

1/2 NBS short box 3:73 gears....Max.trailer weight 5200 lbs. 4:10 gears 6300 lbs.
600 lb. tongue weight.

Must have either z-85, zx-3 or z-71 option(s) also. If NOT 5000 lbs. max.

eric14 · March 2005

Thanks for the info, i want to tow my 89 civic(2,050lbs)and an open trailer.

rayray5 · March 2005

Typical to many Silverado models are the use of plastic center hub caps that are suppose to stay on the wheel via plastic nuts that screw over the wheel nut/studs. Has anyone come up with a sure fire installation method to ensure they stay on the wheel... I'm down 3 or the 4 already!

jerrywimer · March 2005

My 17" wheels have those caps. So far I haven't noticed any tendencies to come off or even loose, but I didn't know I needed to keep an eye on them. Guess I'd better check mine this evening when I get home (paranoid now :P).

65andy · March 2005

After the truck warms up, there is a loud groan when I turn the wheels right or left. It started at about 15000 miles. The dealer has changed the steering gearbox twice saying it is a pressure valve failing in the gearbox. I am on my 3rd gearbox and it is still doing it. I am told it is the steering gearbox again but chevrolet won't pay for a 4th one now that I am at 100000 miles. How can 3 steering gearboxes fail in about 90000 miles?

rayt2 · March 2005

YES,
After hitting some bumps in the road and watching one of my hub caps take off down the road ahead of me one day I came up with this solution, it works great.

Put a dab of silicone on each lug nuts external thread before putting the plastic hub cap on, the silicone acts as a glue but still releases when you need to take them back off.
These plastic nuts are very vunerable to overtorquing by an over zealous mechanic which will strip the plastic threads. I have found the silicone to be the best cure to keep them intact and keep my sanity also. LOL

Ray T.

KCRam · March 2005

Andy, take your Silv to a front-end specialty shop and have them look over the entire front steering and suspension system. Frequent failures like your steering box are often the result of another component causing the issue that went unnoticed or unchgecked.

kcram - Pickups Host

davidw1 · March 2005

My 2001 Silverado 4WD has the intermediate shaft clunk, less than 30,000 miles, but past 36 months. Dealer referred to a service bulletin recommending lubrication (at my expense) after extended warranty declined repair. I was not impressed since grease is not a durable solution to relative motion between components so I declined their quick-fix. Is GM backing this repair? Extended warranty did cover the low speed ABS activation repair.

ryanbab · March 2005

the steering shaft grease has worked for my truck for 2+ yrs. The shaft replacement worked less than a yr at first

mrk585 · March 2005

I have a 2000 chevy truck I was a tech for a few years i bought this truck used then the 5speed manual went out it had 38000 on it at the time warrenty covered the bill it was the 2nd gear syncronizer 2500 miles later 3rd gear sync was out and gm WILL NOT COVER IT so I am looking to put a hd 6 speer in the truck and help please it has a 4.8 and is 4x4

raichinup · March 2005

I've recently bought an 05' silverado z71 package. I traded in my 97' silverado z71 for the upgrade. Everything is great with the vehicle but I've noticed some noise coming from the front end when 4x4 is engaged. Noise sounds a bit like old ball joints and is loudest when making turns and also when accelerating. No noise when off the gas going straight. Does anyone share this issue? Is it something I should worry about? Do new vehicles tend to be a bit noisy during break-in period? Please help. Thanks.

pavermanter · March 2005

My dealer just replaced my intermediate steering shaft due to it making a clunking sound that you could actually feel in the steering wheel. My question is this, What is the actual cause of this problem? It really made a huge difference, NO clunk, and nice and tight!

shiftless · March 2005

INTERMEDIATE STEERING SHAFT is connected to the Lower Steering Shaft through a spline. The "CLUNK" is a loose spline rattling. A quick fix is a new Intermediate Shaft but most likely (in time) the clunk will return. At that point I recommend that you purchase a kit for about $15.00 to relube the spline. The most important part of the kit is a special plug! Included also in the kit is a syringe of lubricant. My advise is to replace the grease in the syringe with a good quality wheel bearing grease. This will make the "relubing" last years longer. Instructions in the kit are quite easy to follow.

jerrywimer · March 2005

I was under the impression that there is now a redesigned steering shaft available that is supposed to fix the issue permanently under TSB?

pavermanter · March 2005

Thanks for the detailed explanation shiftless. I will keep this in mind for the future, however, I too was under the impression it was a redesigned shaft. Thanks guys for the input.

madone · March 2005

Well I can't tell you how but I know it is possible. I have a 2000 1500 Z71 with 165,320 miles on it. I am on my third steering gear box and it has started to whine and groan. It used to do it going left now it does it going in both directions. this one was installed at about 130,000 miles less than a year ago. Does anyone know of a place where we can buy these things by the dozen?

frankiemod · March 2005

my truck, much older has 100,000 thousand mile but at about 30k my i had problems with my truck starting (fuel pump) as described in a few of these posts and the graoning of the stearing wheel, i am on me 3rd also of both those items and second 4wd activator switch the first two where covered by the warranty and the the others by the extended warranty....i am now have some of these problems again, the groaning, and am not looking forward to that expense. :mad:

outdoors4 · March 2005

This is just a thought. I have a 2001 Z71 and about 2 months ago, it did the shuddering, etc.. I took it to the dealer, they ran a diagnostic check and one of the codes, was the fuel filter. I had never had that problem before, changed the filter regularly! Changing the fuel filter solved the shuddering, and so far so good. But take into count my truck has around 110,000 miles on it.

outdoors4 · March 2005

I took my truck into the dealer because in the morning when I start the truck it has this knocking sound. The dealer ran a diagnostic and could not find the problem. Any suggestions!
I'm doing a tune up on this truck. I'm replacing spark plugs, wires if needed, air filter, gas filter is (done). Am I missing anything?

cbett1 · April 2005

I was wondering if you knew how to take off the fuel filter on a '03 gas surburban?

boomer1b · April 2005

The fuel filter is in the tank in 03 and up GM trucks..........

In 99-02s it is in the fuel line that runs along the frame rail.

rayt2 · April 2005

Outdoors,
It's amazing the dealer can't find anything when GM has a long standing issue with "piston slap". I doubt your knock is anything other than just that. GM has a tendency to tell it's dealers to deny the problem, some do some don't. I have had it since 17k miles on my 2000 with the 5.3 engine. It has gotten no better nor any worse. I have no oil consumption problems to date with 55k miles. I have learned to live with the annoyance and let truck run for 1 minute after start-up till knock is no longer heard (the pistons expand with heat and stop slapping the cylinder walls, noise goes away) I do oil changes every 5k and will continue to follow this practice till its time to buy another truck. Reports from other owners have shown this problem to continue thru 100k miles of operation with no ill effects other than annoyance and disdain for GM's quality issue.
You didn't state how many miles are on your truck but I would not waste the time or money changing plugs/ wires etc. it will make no difference with the "knock" issue. Learn to live with it as many others have or sell/trade the truck for something else to meet your truck needs. Remember these trucks are built with rocks I mean "Like a Rock", it just sucks that they have to sound like their in the motor too! LOL :lemon:

Hey Boomer, put the plow back on that rig of yours we got a foot of snow this morning in Poughkeepsie..................................APRIL FOOL ! :shades:

Planning the camping trip up your way for July and August, might have time for a cold one or two or three....... :P

Ray T.

ace2012 · April 2005

I've had my '03 Silverado now for about 2 years, and within the past 6-10 months, these are the electrical problems I've been having:

-Replaced about 15 fuses for my cigarette lighter
-Dash lights go dim/bright, dim/bright (happened twice)
-Interior light will continue to turn on and off for about 15 seconds (happened 3 times)
-Audible warning bell during start up went crazy...rang in quick burst for about 30 seconds
-While driving, truck just shuts off completely, and takes about 30 seconds or so to start back up (luckily I was never going fast during any of these times (happened 3 times...and the last time it smelled like something was burning big time!)

I've taken it to the local dealership twice, and both times they say there is nothing that can be found wrong...visually or on the computer. One technician said he had a truck come in with similiar problems and also was unable to fix problem.

Also, I talked to a few people that I work with: one said he had the same problems and ended up trading it in, and one of his friends had the same truck as well, and his burnt to the ground. Everyone else says good luck!

Is there anyone else that has these problems? If so what did you all do to correct it.

thermopylae · April 2005

I have a '99 1500 Silverado (Ext., 4x4, 5.3) with the Autotrac system. The problem is that in 2wd mode, the front driveshaft is spinning as if it was in the "auto" mode. The front wheels are not being driven. There was an intermittent "Service 4WD" idiot light for a while, but it has not come back since I replaced the push-button switch. I had hoped this to be the solution, however this has not solved the problem. Is there a common fix to this problem?

jogo · April 2005

When driving about 35 to 45 miles an hour, it sounds like it is raining even though its a sunny day any. Any help?

boomer1b · April 2005

JOGO...Do you have a bugshield ? If so that is your problem.
GM has a TSB for a fix.

pofficer · April 2005

Can you give me all the info you have on this, I am getting noplace with GM
Paul

obyone · April 2005

Engine - Knocking on Cold Start Explanation

File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System

Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-028A

Date: March, 2003

INFORMATION
Subject:
Engine Knock on Cold Start

Models:
1999-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup and Utility Models
2002 Cadillac Escalade (2WD)
with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (VINS V, T, Z, U - RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LQ4)

This bulletin is being revised to add an additional engine to the models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-06-01-028 (Section 06-Engine).

Some of the above vehicles may exhibit an engine knock noise that begins in the first 19,000-24,000 km (12,000-15,000 mi) of use. The knock noise is most often noticed during initial start-up and typically disappears within the first 5-30 seconds (may last longer in extreme cold temperatures). The noise is usually more noticeable on the initial start-up when the temperature is below 10°C (50°F) and may be more pronounced on the first cold start following a long trip.

This noise may be caused by an interaction between carbon that has formed on the piston, the piston motion and the cylinder wall. GM Powertrain Engineering, and an analysis of engines with this condition, has confirmed that the noise is not detrimental to the performance, reliability or durability of the engine.

THIS NOISE DOES NOT HAVE ANY EFFECT ON THE LONGEVITY OF ANY OF THE ENGINE COMPONENTS.
Important: At this time, attempts to repair this condition by replacing the engine assembly or pistons are not recommended.

Please share the information found in this bulletin with customers who inquire about this condition. In the event they have additional questions or concerns, please advise your Area Service Manager.

Now you know why you're not getting anywhere......

rayt2 · April 2005

Obyone,

It figures, don't fix the problem add more engines then rename the problem ! LOL :P
I can say their right about durability, I'm not seeing any smoke or oil consumption associated with the "knock" in 56k miles to date on my Rado.

How's your new truck (won't mention the brand here) holding up compared to the old? Still happy with it?

Did ya see the report on the Silverados having the worst crash test results, "like a rock". Some of us just have blind allegiance! :shades:

Ray T.

obyone · April 2005

Hey rayt2,

One thing I liked about the old truck is the ride after I added the Velvet ride shackles, Roadmaster active suspension and bilstein shocks. Too bad they don't make any of those for the new truck.

When I test drove the '05 rado, it was way smoother than my '00. The sales guy had said that GM had added 6 insulators at various points on the truck to achieve that ride. Too bad the Chevy dealer didn't want to come down off of MSRP due to the $3500 rebate that was being offered at that time. If they did, I probably would have bought a '05 despite its looks. I even tried the GMC dealer where I knew the GSM. Best he could do was $1000 off MSRP less rebates.

Other than the axle wrap issue, the new truck is flawless. I guess when Carlos Ghosn called in those engineers from Japan to address the quality issues at their USA plant they managed to eliminate most of the flaws of the '04 models.

Funny thing about the crash test results of the rado. When I bought mine back in '99, one of the selling points was the collapsing front end to absorb energy in times of a front end crash. Little did I know that they went overboard on the collapsing part...lmao.

If this new one holds up half as well as my '91 Hardbody I'd be happy as the '91 is still on the road with no problems at 150k miles.

ryanbab · April 2005

Just curious (sorry to be oftopic guys) but when I first seen the Titan at the 03 or 04 ( I think 04) autoshow what I really noticed was how CHINSEY the door handles (inside and out) were. I felt like jus tnormal opening and closing would tear them off or crack them. How do you find the handles? Everyone talks about the interiors of the gm products but at least their door handles (knock on wood ill probably go break mine now) are stout.

Ryan

mudrunner05 · April 2005

There is any easy fix for your gas gauge problem. It is the sending unit in the tank, I had the same problem with my 00 chevy Z-71. The best way to do it is to unbolt the box its 6 bolts that are very easy to get off. Make sure you have some help since the box is pretty heavy. Take out your fuel pump and the sensor is on the bottom. I had to get the part from a local dealership for about $150.00 it took maybe an hour and half to replace. Its a simple plug in sensor. Make sure the gas tank is close to empty to make it a little easier. The lines on the tank are just pressure fitted and easy to slip off no special tools needed.

mudrunner05 · April 2005

I had a similar problem with my 00 Z-71, but what happend to me was the limited slip broke apart and caused me to blow the rear end in my truck. Was only doing about 35 miles per hour going down hill at that.. Heard and felt a huge clunk and when I stepped on the gas I had nothing. The rear end pretty much exploded and shot parts straight through the cover. About $1200 later I installed a percison gear rear end with and alburn locker. No more worries about the rear end locking up on me. The truck only had 65,000 miles on it which where mostly highway miles

obyone · April 2005

I made a special trip outside to check it out and it seems that you're right and it does feel a little flimsy comparing to the ones on the Denali. However, I don't have the chrome handles which may be a little different. The handles do give a little when grabbing them....then again to open and close the doors are almost effortless as compared to the rado and Denali. The interior handles must've been changed as they are solid as a "rock" lmao........

I understand the '05 rado comes with 3.23 gears as stock. A small step down from the 3.42. The truck was never a torque monster...wondering what GM was thinking with that?

bulldoza · April 2005

I have the LLY 2500HD motor with the allison transmission.
The problem is that under load, it will "POP" and then stay locked in third gear. the 4X4 switch and trailer pull option won't work. The car shifts very hard from park to reverse or park to (now stuck in third) drive. I have to shut off the truck and wait. Eventually i can restart and it will run fine. The check engine light does come on yet my dealer who has looked at it 3 different times can't find a legit problem. They have replace the computer twice and the 4X4 switch too. On the last time he told me that they found a wire rubbed against the frame and motor causing this. Well it just happened again so that was probably BS. Is anyone else experiencing this? Did you find any solutions? Lemon Law?

noobie1 · April 2005

I have the same set-up in an '02' and overall am very pleased with it. I get a loud CLANK when shifting from 'Drive" to 'Park', but have figured out a way to avoid it.

Just a stab in the dark, but this TSB may help: ( bear in mind it's for an '02')

******************************************************************************************- ******

Electrical - MIL ON/A/T Stuck in 3rd Gear

Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-002C

Date: August 21, 2003

TECHNICAL

Subject:
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) On, Transmission Stuck in Third Gear, Instrument Cluster Inoperative (Replace Ignition Switch)

Models:
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2003 Cadillac ESV
1997-1999 Chevrolet Full-Size Pickup, Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style)
1997-2003 Chevrolet Blazer, Express, S-10
1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe (New Style)
1999-2003 Chevrolet Blazer RH Drive (Export)
2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche, TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer EXT
1997-1999 GMC Sierra, Suburban, Yukon (Old Style)
1997-2001 GMC Jimmy
1997-2003 GMC Savana, Sonoma
1999-2003 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL (New Style)
2002-2003 GMC Envoy, Envoy XL
1997-2003 Oldsmobile Bravada
2002-2003 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4L60-E or 4L65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32)

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and to add additional models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-002B (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).

Condition

Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:

^ The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is ON.

^ The transmission is stuck in third gear.

^ The instrument cluster is inoperative.

Upon investigation, one or all of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0740, P0753, P0758, P0785, P1860 may be set.

Cause

The most likely cause of this condition may be a loss of power to the transmission on circuit 1020. This loss of power may be caused by an open in the ignition switch. This condition may also be the result of an incorrect installation of an aftermarket electronic device such as a remote starter or alarm system.

Correction

With the ignition switch in the RUN position, test for battery voltage at the appropriate fuse shown.

If battery voltage is present at the fuse, inspect circuit 1020 between the fuse and the transmission for possible opens. If battery voltage is not present at the fuse, replace the ignition switch using the Ignition Switch Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column sub-section of the applicable Service Manual. Refer to group number 2.188 of the parts catalog for part description and usage.

If the vehicle is equipped with an aftermarket electronic device and the DTCs are being set when the device is being used, verify that the appropriate fuse listed above is being supplied battery voltage during operation. If voltage is not present at this fuse, these DTCs will be set due to lack of power at the solenoids. This condition is most likely to occur with an incorrectly installed remote starting system. If this is the case, refer the customer to the installer of the system for corrections.

Parts Information

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Warranty Information

******************************************************************************************- ******

Have you had any electrical accessories installed?
You might try a different dealer. If that fails, call Chevy and get a factory rep involved. If you can duplicate the problem in the dealer's presence your in luck.
If not, UHG!

-David

alittle · April 2005

I want to change the oem differential fluid in my 2500HD to synthetic. Is there any special additive which must be used with a 8.1/Allison/dyna rear end?

ryanbab · April 2005

What yr truck? If if 2001+ then NO you dont need an additive. Only the old body style trucks used the additive (98 and older for the most part). The rear end comes from the factory with synthetic that is why you do not need the additive

Ryan

alittle · April 2005

2001 2500HD Silverado with 8.1/allison/3.73

scobil · April 2005

I have a 2000 2500 4x4, Automatic (4L60E), 4.10 and starting around 70k miles I have had an intermittent hard shifting problem. The problem occurs usually when forcing a downshift when going up a hill. After this happens there is hard, violent shifting between all gears. It will continue to shift this way until you turn off the motor for about 30 seconds, and will work normal after restart.

It then began to get this issue sometimes when I was heading up a hill and there was no downshift. When this happens I have noticed that although it does not feel like it has downshifted there is a small increase (200) in RPM's and then they drop back down. After this happens the hard shifting starts, again until you shut it off.

I have had it in at the dealer a couple of times, each time they have not been able to duplicate the problem, but have added some "software updates" to make it shift softer. They tell me that there is no way for them to really find out what the problem is unless they take the thing apart.

I was wondering if anyone has found a solution for this.

obyone · April 2005

had a 4L60E. That in itself could be a problem since the output of the 6.0 should be at the upper limits of that trans. When was the trans last serviced and have you checked the fluid level in the trans?

scobil · April 2005

In all honesty, I do not know for sure, this is what the dealer told me (perhaps this why they cannot figure out what is wrong). The ordering code was MT1 and was labeled as HD 4 Speed Automatic Transmission.

The fluid has been changed every 25k -30k miles and each time the fluid is not burnt and there is no fragments in the pan. I do however, have to add a little fluid (.25 - .5qt) at least twice between changes.

The past two times that the dealer has looked at it they have performed a "complete flush" supposedly to clean up any gummy valves. But each time they do this and update the software the problem gets more and more prominent.

Thank you for your input.

Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Chevy Silverado: Problems &amp; Solutions

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions