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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
J.
-- Don
Per GM's TSB
SMU - Revised Front Caster and Camber Adjustment Procedure #02-03-07-002 - (10/04/2002)
Caster measurements or values must be compensated for the measured frame angle.
Caster is relative to frame. The caster values must be compensated for the measured frame angle by using a digital protractor or equivalent on a flat portion of the frame in front of the rear tire.
This is only a portion of the whole proceedure.
No substitute for a concientious tech.
2003 2500HD Chevy
Not sure I follow your train of thought.
Conventional wisdom aside, re-alignment is not required
Sure, not required. Nothing is required, but it is sure alot better for the front tires.
When you change the geometry, as gator stated, you change the alignment, what do you think you do when you align it? You change the geometry of the suspension.
Ray T.
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I'm new on board but not new to cars and trucks. My new Silverado LS w/ a 4.8 and extended cab has a whine and slight vibration in the tranny at very low speeds and up to 1500 rpm. It sounds like a bus or a 10 ton truck and is annoying to say the least. Varying the throttle slightly makes it very noticeable. Like to hear from anyone with similar problem and what if anything their dealer is doing about it. Mine says it is in the exhaust system and has added some dampers to no avail. Thanks for any help that might be available. Tom
So much for GM fixing this issue.
Ray T.
-David
I wouldn't expect there to be much difference between that '97 Z71 and my '98 Z71.
Your biggest bother will be getting it to a trustworthy service place to get it corrected. Just because the pump doesn't sing, it doesn't mean that it is the problem... it just may not be getting power to make it sing.
Ray T.
Vic
My bet is your By-Pass switch or connection to the switch has a problem,
Thanks ,
Mike
I'm not sure a lawsuit will help. The lawyers will get most of the money, consumers will get a few dollars. There was a class action lawsuit on my car (91 lumina) for the rear sliders. I learned about the suit in a mass mailing, sent in a repair order, and voila! Six months later I got an $8.00 check! Sure put a dent in that $200.00 slider bill I paid.
Ray T.
Thanks,
RAchel
Since starting to work out of my home (and also buying a new car) - I don't drive the Z-71 that much.
About 4 months ago I noticed a small clunk in the driveline - I would hear it when I stopped and then again when I took off. It seemed louder when cold.
I stopped by the dealership and was told that the driveshaft should have been lubed at 30K - so I was over due. They lubed the driveshaft and the clunk went away. Problem solved. In the 4 months since then I have only driven about 1,000 miles - this morning the clunk is back - same as before.
I don't see how letting a truck sit would cause this problem, -
Anyone know of a fix?
How easy is it to lube a driveshaft?
The dealer did not charge me or even write up a ticket when they lubed the driveshaft 4 months ago - So I have no "warranty" coverage.
The Dealer replace the yoke in the drive line with an upgraded one. Warranty covered the cost. The problem is 100% gone.
-David
any advice?
Not sure why - maybe it just needed to work a little!
I have seen more than a dozen 1500HD and at least 50 2500HD Silverados with 265 75 16 tires. On both stock and after market wheels. These ties will fit without any modifications.
The existing lock is on the cap only and seens to be pretty badly corroded and it is not very secure.
If anyone knows of a solid fix to this problem please let me know.
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Share your vehicle reviews
I just bought a new Chevy Silverado 2500 H D
I have always owned Ford's 1973,1984,1995 and the
last one was a 1999 F 250 lariat, I got a deal I could not
refuse. I have a question that is trivial (maybe).
I bought locking wheel lug nuts for it, I put them
on yesterday, I noticed that there is a space now in the
hub cap where I took off the regular plastic lug nut cover
it will not fit over the lock. How much trouble can moisture
getting in under the hub cap cause me. I was thinking of
taking the caps off and duct taping the inside of the caps
to hold excess moisture out. Any suggestions ?
Thanks Al :
GPABBOTT itshimagain@juno.com
5.3 engine. The air compressor makes a clunking
sound when it is turned on at low speed. Chevrolet indicates there is nothing they can do.
It is a redesigned compressor. This is another
instance of GM not getting it right. I have had
it with them; unfortunately for the USA the next
vehicle we buy will be a Toyota.
Anyway, I took it to my local dealer and they told me that I needed a new sender unit (which is in the gas tank). They said it was $400 for the part and $150 to install it= $550! I told them no thanks. When I got home, I crawled under the truck, and the tank still had mud all over it - they hadn't even dropped it to look, but they did charge me $80 to tell me it would be $550 to fix.
As if that wasn't suspicious enough, they said my throttle body needed cleaning...Now I am quite familiar when it needs cleaning, as the gas pedal will stick firmly and you have to mash the gas pedal to get it unstuck (a potentially dangerous situation). I clean it myself from time to time; takes about 5 minutes to do. It didn't need cleaning!
Finally, they wanted $250 to do the rear brakes (new pads).
While I am not up to date on new cars, I did spend two years of high school in an automechanics course, so I know a few things. I guess if I was an uninformed customer, I'd be getting swindled.
Oh, I did the brakes myself: $34 for pads and $40 to turn the rotors. $74 vs. $250.
On the throttle body cleaning thing, they may do recommendations based on mileage. We had a tech working here for awhile who did that. He'd see 50k on the odometer and make a list. I had to weed through the list before presenting it to the customer.
You saved most of your money on the brake deal by doing them yourself, you saved labor $. The pad price you give is not a GM price, so you saved money buying aftermarket. They weren't scamming, they were using regular charges based on GM parts and their own hourly labor rate.
I have a friend who works for Honda as a mechanic and he gets the "book rate" for job whether he gets it done on time or ahead of time. To me that is a rip off of the consumer. Say you have a particular job done and book rate says 5 hrs., job is completed in 2 hrs. by mechanic but the customer is still charged for the job based on book rate. It's hard to trust dealers or repair facilities that do this and believe me there are more that do then don't.
Just my 2 cents.
Ray T.
In the case of this guy with the fuel sender, $150 doesn't sound bad, if the labor rate is $60 or $75. The part price doesn't sound too far off, either.
I know everyone has to make a living, but IMO, there's something fundamentally wrong, when something as benign as a fuel sender costs $400! This isn't a Boeing 777; it's not rocket science. It shouldn't cost that much. I refuse to cave-into car companies' ploys of teching-out the car to the point where it's just one big friggin' computer with four wheels.
Sorry about my rant. Now I'm off to the junkyard to find a used sender.
Thanks for the replys earlier.
Also, I have had the throttle body problem. how do you clean that in 5 minutes. Is it documented somewhere?
Thanks,
Travis Kisner